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Saturday, November 18, 2017

2014 The Italian Sea Group Admiral Sail - Silent 76, Carrara Italy

Read article : 2014 The Italian Sea Group Admiral Sail - Silent 76, Carrara Italy

Features:

1. Construction

Hull Construction:

The hull is moulded in GRP from female moulds; it uses a high properties gelcoat and the internal side of the hull is vacuum infused with isoftalic polyester resin while the skincoat features a further application of vi-nylester resin in order to avoid and limit osmosis. Additional reinforce-ments are included to the keel area, the keel longitudinal, mast bulkhead, structural P-brackets, engine room basement, forestay and hull stringers. Limber holes which penetrate structural areas and/or tubes are installed at appropriate points on stringers, bulkhead – landings and floors.

Hull Finishes:

Grey metal hull and with light grey superstructure; red waterline and black antifouling;

Deck Construction:

Moulded in GRP with a PVC foam cored structure for strength and insula-tion. In load bearing areas the core is replaced with plywood for additional strength, and all load bearing fittings have backing plates.

The hull to deck connection is achieved by bonding the deck onto the return flange of the hull and using the glue approved by Class rules in or-der to create a structural junction.

Deck Finishes:

The weather deck, cockpit seats, sole areas and part of the coachroof area are finished with teak planking (10mm). This is laid using epoxy ad-hesive, with no visible fastenings.

The areas either side of the main companionway are finished with teak planking, with open stowage areas and stainless steel rails.

All lockers drain outside and their hinges and catches are recessed or hid-den into Teak planking, as appropriate.

Keel System:

The keel is a high performance bulb design.

The ballast keel is made of lead casting bolted to the GRP hull with stain-less steel bolts. Ballast weight is approximately 14,800 kgs. .

The keel is designed to combine moderate draft with good sailing perfor-mance due to its efficient shape and side winglets. The centre of gravity is very low due to the fact that the centerboard is made of cast iron while the actual keel is made of lead.

Mast and Boom:

Max Spar conventional alloy mast (made of two parts) with Ronstan track for in-boom furling mainsail with top tapered (last 3 meters). Triple spread-er rig with tapered aerofoil spreaders (21° angle).

Custom carbon boom – deep and trapezoidal section incorporating Bamar furling system and electric motor for in-boom furling mainsail.

Mast & Boom and Mast & Vang connections are custom made in alumi-num and feature a special, custom made concealing cover, made of car-bon, which gives a unique design. Also the vang itself feature a custom made concealing cover, made of two carbon conical blocks.

Deck Fittings:

Stainless steel opening pulpit;

Port and starboard navigational lights;

Stainless steel pushpit with gate for boarding;

Custom stainless steel and teak made engine bracket;

650mm stainless steel custom stanchions and bases with double stainless steel rod guardrails;

Pair of gateway stanchions for side access;

Stainless steel telescopic and retractile steamhead fitting with single roller designed to stow a 63kg Delta anchor. The chain flows into the steamhead arm itself, without the need of having an external chainplate;

Pair of custom stainless steel, leather upholstered backrest seats fitted at the helm positions;
6 x pairs of 400mm stainless steel “pop-up” mooring cleats with chafe strips to deck edges;
4 x pairs of aft “pop-up” fairleads and cleats in proximity of the transom bulwark;
Deck fillers – 2 x fuel, 2 x water and 1 x waste;
1000W Sanguinetti Chiavari retractile capstan for mooring lines at bow;

Cockpit:

The cockpit is split into separate guest and steering/crew areas, although they are both on the same level.
The main companionway features a double large horizontal sliding hatchway with stainless steel frames and grab rail. The sliding mechanism is manually powered.
The guest cockpit is over 3m long and self-draining as it’s on the same level of the main deck. There are also cockpit drains which ease the water to drain away while at sea and going upwind. There is a clear walkway giving excellent access from the companionway to the helm positions and side decks, all on the same level.
The cockpit features two teak-topped opening, sliding and telescopic tables.
The tables are permanently installed and have seats on three sides due to the cockpit design. The table is provided with a cover. Under one of the cockpit seats a top opening fridge finds place.
Three pairs of flush mounted waterproof loud speakers are mounted in the guest cockpit with their own cockpit mounted remote control unit for the dedicated ‘cockpit’ CD/Tuner head unit (head unit installed below decks).
Two of those speakers are used by the vhf system, as external loud speakers.
The helm position has twin custom GRP and aluminium steering pedestals
incorporating all the standard controls and instruments with plenty of room for additional equipment, if required. Each pedestal has a flush-mounted compass with internal lighting. There is a double lever engine control fitted at the starboard pedestal. The wheels are fitted in a reverse position, giving easy and safe access to the instruments mounted on both pedestals.
At the helm position an aluminium roll-bar finds place. This is the base where the two fixed points for the mainsheet system are fitted.
Aft the helm positions is a clear flat deck area, which can be filled with cushions, creating a sunbathing area. This area also includes two big lockers with flush-to-deck lids, teak covered; they are designed to host two liferafts or alternatively one can be dedicated to a liferaft and the other one to store lines. A custom flush hatch is fitted with twin gas struts, drain channels, rubber seal and against the wind closing to give access to the large dinghy garage.

Garage & Bathing Platform:

The yacht is built with a flap-down full beam transom, raised and lowered hydraulically, which also gives the main access to the toys garage. The garage can host a good number of toys and actually it fitted to host 3 seabobs.
The bathing platform created by the transom once it’s open it is provided with a demountable stainless steel bathing ladder and it’s covered by teak planking.
A removable ladder also connects the main deck to the transom when open. Alternatively also the gangway can be used for this purpose.
There is a hot and cold freshwater deck shower located in the dinghy garage which can be used on the bathing platform thanks to a flexible hose.
The garage door is also provided with an emergency system for opening the garage, which is placed close to the waterline, protected by a stainless steel screwed in cap and which can be operated by a person in the water.

Hard Top:

The yacht features a custom cockpit hard top, which gives a very good protection to the all cockpit and helm positions. This feature is unique on yachts of this size and contributes to the overall design of the yacht.

The hard has an aluminium structure, attached to the aluminium roll-bar which is placed aft. The practical functions of this will be both sprayhood and bimini.
The hard top has a glass cover and an opening area which is covered with acrylic material (Sunbrella), with battens.
The hard top also features side glasses which deliver complete protection to the forward end of the cockpit seats.


Anchoring:

A Quick 3000w electric anchor windlass is installed below deck and within the anchor chain locker. The windlass, which is two-way and operated by adjacent foot switch controls is well over specified for the size of the vessel.
The 63kg (approximately) Delta anchor stows into the retractable stemhead fitting.
120 metres of 12mm calibrated, galvanized chain is fitted to match the
windlass. The chain is fastened at its 'bitter end' to a through-bolted stainless
steel attachment with substantial lanyard.

Haatches, Windows and Portholes:

1 x Lewmar over forward crew cabin;
1 x Lewmar over forward VIP cabin;
1 x Lewmar over main saloon;
1 x Lewmar over garage (with teak planked lid);
Custom main companionway with double sliding and balanced hatch system,
stainless frames and grab rails (by SeaSmart);
1 x custom GRP hatch to cover anchor steamhead locker;
Custom direct bonded, curved and flat, non-opening frameless deck saloon
windows, smoked glass made (by Viraver);
8 x custom direct bonded non-opening frameless hull windows, smoked glass made (by Viraver);


Whinches:

2 x Harken 1000.3 ST three speed, electric drive, self-tailing primary
winches;
2 x Harken 74.2 ST two speed electric drive, self-tailing halyard winches;


4. Rigging and Sails


Standing Rigging:

The vessel is fitted with discontinuous Maxspar rod rigging for the 3- spreader rig. The standing rigging includes a split backstay which is made of high performance steel and Dynema for the backstay legs, with plates below deck;
Discontinuous rod rigging for tip-cups;
Enclosed rod rigging for tip-cups;
Stainless steel rod, which incorporates high strength, low stretch and high corrosion resistance;
Stemball spreader links and stemball tang fittings used throughout;
Total weight of standing rigging is: 340kg;


Running Rigging:

1 x 16mm dyneema main halyard;
2 x 16/14mm dyneema/dynaone headsail/blade halyard;
1 x 14mm dyneema storm/jib halyard;
1 x 16mm dyneema boom topping lift;

2 x 16mm dyneema asymmetric halyard;
1 x 16mm dyneema mainsheet;
2 x 16mm dyneema blade jib sheets;
2 x 14mm dyneema storm jib sheets;
2 x 16mm dyneema reef lines;
2 x 18mm dyneema checkstay runner tails;

Backstay and Vang Hydraulics:

1 x Cariboni hydraulic backstay tensioners with mechanical lock-off;
1 x Cariboni hydraulic vang with carbon cover;
Operation of these rig hydraulics is powered via a push button console fitted
on pedestal and with a manual backup control unit close to port pedestal;


Blocks:

Spinlock;
2 x stand up single block on bulwark;
2 x pad eyes;


Mainsheet System:

The system is managed by a magic trim system which is installed below deck at mast level. This allows to have a double point mainsheet on the rollbar and therefore the cockpit and deck remain as clear as possible;

Headsail System:

The system uses an auto/tacking jib with single track and single car;

The car can be also used for the removable staysail;

There is a single jib sheet, going from the traveller up to the mast and then down concealed under the coachroof and back to one of the aft winches;


Headsail System:

Bamar electric headsail furling which gives push-button reefing and furling
of the jib;
Unit finished in black anodizing and stainless steel and concealed below
deck to create a flushed bow area;
Manual backup;
Dual controls are provided for each headsail furling function, so the sail may be furled from either side of the cockpit;


Storm Staysail System:

Removable storm jib stay;
Storm jib halyard;
Cariboni hydraulic tensioner;

Rigging Hardware:

Fittings, tip-cups, etc., for discontinuous rod rigging;
Deck ring fabricated in spartite (composite) x 2 kits;
Conduit for masthead instrument wiring;
Spinlock ZS rope jammers for storm jib and blade jib halyards;
Spinlock ZS rope jammers for mainsail halyard and topping lift;
Mast jacking system;
SAILS (by North Sails) Mainsail – SRP 105 – 5 x full-length carbon battens, loose foot, two rows
of reefing points each with custom leech reef block;
Mainsail boom cover in acrylic;
Furling and Selftacking Jib – SRP 105, including a foam luff pad and UV
stripes;
All sails feature a custom graphic design;


5. Electronic Systems

Navigation Instruments:

2 x Raymarine i70, supported data views include: Wind, Speed, Depth,
Tri-data and navigation integrated with the Chart Plotter. The instruments
are installed on each pedestal;
Raymarine SPX-30 SmartPilot autopilot with T3 hydraulic linear drive unit;
2 x Raymarine p70 autopilot remote control located at pedestal and chart
table;
2 x Raymarine e125 Chart Plotter at both pedestals with integrated Digital
Radar and built-in 50 Channel Global Positioning System (GPS), interfaced
with the autopilot;
Raymarine 4kW Radome radar antenna mounted on mast;
Raymarine Ray 240E, Class D-DSC VHF radio-telephone with antenna at
masthead and second station at pedestal;
Magnetic compass;

Entertainment:

Stereo FM Radio/CD Player with iPod and iPhone connectivity. One is fitted with four loudspeakers in the cockpit and has a remote control with twin loudspeakers to the foredeck. Inside the yacht every cabin has a separate stereo system while the master suite and main saloon feature a proper home theatre system which includes stereo and iPod connection.
The stereo system can be also controlled via wifi by an iPad;
8 x OX-Home mirror TV’s are fitted throughout the yacht including bathrooms;

6. Engine Room Equipment

General:

The engine room surfaces are faced with white painted sound absorbing aluminium panels. The engine room access is below the ladder which connects the main saloon to the forward cabin, all other access panels are extra ordinary service panels into the salon floor. The engine room has 24v lighting and is fitted with extractor fans ducted to the exterior through concealed into coachroof grids. An automatic fire extinguisher is fitted with remote indicator light;

Propulsion:

2 x Yanmar Common Rail 4BY2-150 diesel engines, 150hp @ 4,000rpm
ZF reduction gear, which gives a reduction of 2.45:1;
2 x 22” 3 fixed pitch and blades propellers;
2 x 40mm stainless steel shafts lines;
2 x Bronze P-bracket and a PSS water-lubricated lip seal stern gland system;
1 x 15kW SP240 TCi Side Power electric bowthruster with speed control PPC 800;


7. Electrical System


12/24 Volt:

Domestic bank batteries are 24V AGM type, deep cycle series, with a total capacity of 2000 Ah @ 20Ah rate. This battery bank also serves the bowthruster load;
Engine starting batteries are 12V AGM type, heavy duty type (one battery for each engine);
Generator starting battery 12V AGM type, heavy duty type;
2 x 24V/100 Ah alternators (one for each engine);
24V/12V converter, used to charge the engine batteries bank through the alternators;
100A/24V Skylla-TG battery charger;
24V/5000W Phoenix inverter;
12V/30A Phoenix Charger for engines and generator;
24V/12V Blue Power IP20 battery charger for emergency battery bank;
Circuit breaker system;
Victron Easy Control Panel acting as a voltmeter and ammeter for monitoring the vessel’s batteries status;
Batteries isolators;

220 Volt:

1 x 20kW (50Hz) Kohler 4-cylinder diesel generator running @ 1,500rpm installed within manufacturer’s sound shield, located into the fully – insulated engine room. An exhaust water separator and waterlock are installed.

The unit has a remote Start/Stop and instruments mounted on the AC electrical panel at chart table.
220V AC circuit with outlet sockets located as appropriate within the layout;
1 x 63Amp dockside power cable, 3-core double insulated PVC; socket
located on the aft deck;
1 x 100A/24V Victron Battery Chargers;


9. Bilge System


General:

8 x Rule electric bilge pumps;
High level bilge alarm with double level sensor;
Manual bilge pump operated from the side of the cockpit and fitted with a metal deck plate;
Emergency electric bilge pump by Gianneschi, with manual clutch, rated to pump approx. 125lt/min;


10. Fuel System

General:

2 x aluminium tanks providing a total capacity of 1,900 litres, including the
return tank;
Tank inspection cover, one for each;
Tank deck fillers;
Tank gauge system;
Duplex Racor fuel filter and water separator unit is installed with warning lights at the electrical panel. With this system each filter can be isolated whilst maintaining the all machinery up and running, allowing in-use filter replacement and cleaning;

11. Water System


Fresh Water System:

2 x structural tanks totalling 1,360 litres. The GRP tanks are treated with inert gelcoat, fitted with baffles and provided with multiple inspection covers;
1 x 80lt Quick B3 80 water heater; the water is heated by the engine’s heat exchanger or by a thermostatically-controlled 220V, 1.2kW immersion heater element;
180lt/h Idromar MSK 18 watermaker;
Tank deck fillers;
Tank gauge system;

Grey Water:

3 x Sanisplit pressure lines which serve two grey-water aluminium tanks (totalling 220lt) located in the engine room, fitted with a float switch and a Gulper pump, giving automatic evacuation of all showers, washbasins and galley sinks;


Black Water:

5 x Tecma macerator toilets;
1 x 110lt aluminium black water holding tank;
Tank gauge system;
The tank is configured for discharge below water with additional ability to be pumped out from deck via flush-mounted deck fittings.


12. Other Options


General:

60,000 BTU Condaria reverse cycle 220V air conditioning, 8 units;
Barazza Microwave;
Miele electric oven;
Miele Dishwasher;
Miele Washing machine;
Bora 4-plates electric hob;
Bora extractor fan;
Waeco Coolmatic HDC 150 liter 24V fridge, front opening, fitted into the
galley;
Waeco Coolmatic CB 40 Liter 24V fridge, top opening, fitted into the galley;
Third fridge, top opening, fitted into the cockpit, below the seats;
2 x LED underwater lights;
Lopolight tri-wihite light at masthead;
Windex type Wind indicator at masthead with dedicated light;

2 x boom lights over cockpit;
Pair of down and up spreader courtesy lights;
Master gaiter cover in waterproof fabric;

13. Accomodation


General:

The layout allows for a maximum of eight guest berths and two crew, in five cabins, with five heads and separate shower compartments. Owners', guests' and skipper's cabins will have hanging lockers with auto light. All cabins have a mirror fitted.


Deck Saloon:

Access to the Saloon from the cockpit is via a set of teak covered steps, backlighted on the bottom side, with stainless steel handrails on side. The ladder structure is made of aluminium. A custom double sliding, smoked glazed access system is installed at the companionway. This system has a mechanically balanced and assisted operation. The access ladder continues aft, in order to give access to the guest area, and features a Plexiglas divider between the steps going outside and the ones which give access
to the guest area. Below the ladder, in the foyer, a little settee or alternatively a little storage or oilskin locker find place, while below the steps going down into the foyer, which can be removed, there is an access to the main electric switch panel.
Going into the saloon there is a large table to starboard which serves an ‘L’ shape large settee, leather upholstered. The table has a veneered top panel with stainless steel details and it features a sliding mechanism.
There may be also additional stools in order to create more sitting area.
Alternative custom tables are available on request.
To the aft side of the sitting areas, on the bulkhead, a good size mirror TV finds place. A custom drinks locker is fitted forward, surrounding the mast area.
To port side there is a bar area which also works as a kitchen island and which can be provided with tall stools. The island is covered with ‘slatelite onice classico’ on the saloon side which is also backlighted. On the port side, the galley and the chart table find place.
The material used within the saloon are ‘Eucalypt fumé’ for the joinery, white leather and stainless steel strips for the floors and white leather and sand nabuk leather for the headlining. The hull sides, hullports and hatches recesses are upholstered with brown leather, while the venetian blinds are made of wood and leather. The sofa is white leather upholstered.

The Deck Saloon is extremely light and airy, with four bonded to coachroof windows and two opening deck hatches. There are also two long nonopening hullports, one per each side. These hullports contribute to the great feeling of light and space, giving a panoramic view whilst at anchor.

Galley:

The galley has a single, long surface taking the most of the length of the deck saloon. The worktop is covered with ‘Callisto slatelite’ stone with all the appliances being flushed to worktop. The same slatelite material is also used on the floor.
The appliances include a double electric hob for a total of four hot plates by Bora which also feature a particular extractor fan in the middle, again by Bora, fitted on the worktop and assuring a good smoke and odour extraction with the minimum noise. Beside the hob is a sub-counter top mounted ceramic and custom made single sink, which is served by a retractile tap by Barazza. The galley also features an electric oven by Miele
and a microwave by Barazza, together with a front-opening fridge and a top-opening one, better described in the refrigeration chapter. The galley also has a front-opening slim line dishwasher by Miele, for up to nine covers.
Both the refrigerator and freezer have an automatic door light fitted and are provided with their own compressors.


Nav Station:

On this yacht the chart table area is located in order to be a natural continuation of the galley worktop, forward of the galley, and it’s provided with two front-facing panels which accommodate the all electronics, a substantial chart table and a stool which can be removed when not in use.
A small stainless steel support stay is fitted on the chart table lid. There is provision for the stowage of charts. Stowage will be provided also for navigational books, almanacs, etc.


Master Cabin:

The aft cabin is configured with a double berth which is centerlined, one pouf which serves a dressing table and an office desk, plus two large hanging lockers, with drawer and locker space. There is access to the ensuite aft bathroom which is split in two parts, located forward to both sides, one for the shower and the other one for wc, both served by a washbasin.
This cabin is also provided with a safe, flush fitted with digital keypad.

Master Head:

This bathroom is split in two separate areas, on port and starboard side.
The starboard side one includes a separate shower by Bianchi e Fontana and a washbasin; the shower walls and floor as well as the bathroom floor, walls and washbasin counter top are all covered with San Laurant marble with part of the shower corners to be backlighted. Also the washbasin is hollow into the same material and has taps by Fantini and plumbing by Paffoni.
The port side bathroom features a washbasin and a Tecma electric wc (black colour) and the same material as per the starboard one but has Alpilignum joinery instead of marble which is fitted on the floor and on washbasin counter top and stowage doors only. This bathroom also has a mirror TV’ which is hidden behind the mirror.
Headlining for both bathrooms are made of white LED backlighted panels.
Quality large type mixer taps, thermostatic shower controls and fittings are by Fantini and Inda.
Lockers for wash bags, cleaning materials and linen stowage are provided.

Guest Cabins (STB and PRT):

Forward of the master cabin are a pair of guest double cabins, one either side of the corridor.
One of those cabins is configured to be an upper/lower berthed cabin, while the other is a double berth one. Each has en-suite WCs and showers and a hanging locker. The beds also feature a big storage space under the slats net which can be lifted up.


Guest Head:

The two aft guest’s bathrooms serve the two aft cabins and are almost specular. They are both fitted with a separate shower by Bianchi e Fontana and they feature walls, floors and washbasin counter top in “Slatelite Selene”. The headlining is made of “Dani Boxland” leather and of varnished panels. The wc’s are Tecma electric (colour black). Both the bathrooms feature quality mixer taps and thermostatic shower control by Fantini
and fittings by Inda. In particular the taps are fizzed to floor and have a cylinder design.
The washbasins are mounted on the slatelite counter top and are by “Glassdesign” (colour black); the port side one is a gum type (flexible).
In both bathroom there are rollaway stainless steel wirings fitted in the shower which can be used to hang wet clothes; in this way the shower cubicle can be used as an oilskin locker.


VIP Cabin:

Forward from the saloon, which also include the galley on the port side, there is a VIP double berth cabin which uses the all beam of the yacht and has an en-suite good size bathroom on the starboard side. This cabin is also provided with a safe, flush fitted with digital keypad.

VIP Head:

The VIP bathroom takes the all length of the VIP cabin and is placed on starboard side. The shower walls and washbasin top are made of “Slatelite Elios”, while the other walls feature an “Alpilignum” joinery. The floors are made of “Calacatta Oro” marble which is also backlighted into the shower.
The headlining are made of “Dani Boxland” leather. Hidden behind the mirror, a TV finds place too.
The wc is an electric Tecma (Black colour) and the quality mixer taps and thermostatic shower control are by Fantini, while the bathroom’s fitting are by Inda. The washbasin is a ceramic type, squared, over counter top mounted, by “GSG Ceramica” (glossy white colour).


Crew Cabin:

Forward of this cabin is a double crew cabin with en-suite head and integral shower. This cabin is also fitted with a laundry corner which includes a washer-dryer; the access to this cabin is through a generous size deck hatch only.

Crew Head:

The Crew head which is accessible from the crew cabin only, features a Corian type floor with integrated grate for shower drain. The bathroom has an integrated shower and for this reason all the wall, lockers and other surfaces are made of easy to clean material. The bathroom has taps and shower fittings by Paffoni and a Tecma electric toilet (white colour).
In the bathroom as well as in the cabin itself there are rollaway stainless steel wirings fitted which can be used to hang wet clothes; in this way the bathroom can be used as an oilskin locker, while the cabin area can be used as a drying area.

Disclaimer

This offering is subject, but not limited to, errors, omissions, price fluctuation, and prior
sale or withdrawal without notice. All details disclosed are without guarantee and solely
based on the information received by the seller, intended as a general guide to the Yacht.
Engel & Völkers cannot be held liable for any lack of completeness, inaccuracy, or ambiguities
and/or errors contained in the information disclosed. It is the buyer’s responsibility
to disclose the details of any concern(s) to the seller, by the request of a survey, inspection and/or enquiry. The buyer must ensure that the purchase contract properly reflects his
concern(s) and that it sets out any representations and/or details on upon which he may
rely. Engel & Völkers always advises the buyer to conduct an independent survey
prior to the purchase. We are at your disposal for any further information about the
Yacht. Upon receipt of notice, the Yacht is available for viewing at any time, accompanied
by our Yacht Broker. The Seller is responsible for the payment of Commission

Saturday, May 6, 2017

Copper pipe electrolysis from touching galvanized steel?

Read article : Copper pipe electrolysis from touching galvanized steel?
topic 24664

An ongoing discussion from 2003 through 2016 . . .

(2003)electrolysis in copper pipe

Q.I recently had a 1/2" TYPE L HMP flexible copper pipe that sprung a leak, unfortunately it was inside the wall going up to the second floor. After splicing the pipe where it was leaking another spot started leaking. I noticed inside the pipe a bunch of green "blobs" & the outside of this (HOT) water pipe a lot cleaner than the other pipe (COLD) that would have been put in at the same time, 20-25 years ago I'm guessing. I did notice one spot where the copper pipe was touching an old galvanized pipe seemed to be wet and green. Could there have been some electrolysis going on that caused this pipe to start getting finer than pin hole leaks & how much damage might have been done to the rest of the plumbing if that is the case?

THANK YOU FOR YOUR HELP,

Alex H [last name deleted for privacy by Editor]
do-it-myself-er - Cedar Rapids , Iowa

(2003)

A.Copper pipes can corrode in at least three different ways, but the differences are quite technical. I would suggest that the corrosion could be induced by a galvanic couple caused by contact with the galvanised pipe and this results in an induced local anodic polarisation of the copper pipe. I would normally expect such a failure to occur where the two pipes come into contact, but if this point is dry, no corrosion will occur and the effects of the galvanised pipe will be transmitted onto the copper pipe where it will react in a more favourable wet environment. Your photograph clearly shows the green copper salts on the inside of the failed straight pipe, so it must have been in an area where the copper is oxidised and failed. The propensity for copper pipes to fail is related to how the pipe was made, the local water composition and the environment it is used in. I would suggest there may be other not be other problems with your copper pipes, as there has already been a failure of an induced polarity, but if there are other non-compatible pipes in contact with each other, there could be a repeat of this. It may be wise to ask a plumber to check your system out.

trevor crichton
Trevor Crichton
R&D practical scientist
Chesham, Bucks, UK

(2004)

Q.I was told by a local plumber that electrolysis can occur in copper pipes when the hot water heating system is part of a forced hot water boiler system. The solution is to put nylon fittings between the copper connections and the galvanized boiler system so as to prevent any electrolysis action from taking place in the copper pipes running throughout the building. I would like to get other opinions since this is an expensive fix and it takes a long time to determine whether the fix in fact works.

Dan W [last name deleted for privacy by Editor]
property management - Juneau, Alaska

(2004)

A.It is the right advise, Dan. For galvanic corrosion to occur you need a metallic circuit and an electrolyte circuit. If you break the conductive metal circuit between the copper and galvanized pipe, galvanic corrosion ("electrolysis")" does not occur. This is not to say that no form of corrosion will ever occur though.

Ted Mooney, finishing.com
Teds signature
Ted Mooney, P.E. RET
finishing.com
Pine Beach, New Jersey
(2004)

A.Copper pipe failure began to occur approximately eight years after completion of a new home in Brewster Co. Texas. The leaks were always in the cold line.

A split-core ammeter revealed a slight current flow between the steel gas pipe and the hot side of the copper system. No current could be detected between the cold copper pipe and the hot, or the steel gas line. This led me to conclude that the cold line was acting as a sacrificial anode between the other two while absorbing all voltage drop.

No electrical bonding could be found.

My solution was to isolate the steel line (which included some galvanized parts), from the copper system with a PVC adapter.

Current flow cannot now be detected unless a jumper is placed between the steel and copper.

Is the problem solved? I don't know! What can be said is that there is no further measurable evidence of electrolytic activity in this particular system.

Sam D [last name deleted for privacy by Editor]
- Alpine, Texas
(2004)

A.As others have mentioned, there are three different ways for holes to develop in a copper line, and I have seen all three.

A typical trade mark of electrolysis is pit on the inside of the pipe where the electrical current has actually eaten away at the piping, this doesn't sound like what is going on.

Another way is corrosion from the outside, normally when the piping in in a damp location with high acid soils, or even in an unsealed sleeve (copper run inside another pipe, usually PVC, and normally from the meter to the house). This is evidenced by pitting on the outside of the pipe.

The last one I have come across, and am still researching, is what it sounds like this gentleman has. It typically will have build-up on the inside of the piping and will often times leave large "blobs" of build up. I don't know what this is for sure, but I do know it isn't electrolysis, and it has nothing to do with water that is too clean (mentioned on another website as a possible answer). I think it has to do with the water quality to a certain degree, but I think it may be the molecular structure not the chemicals used. I think the buildup is a protectant for a "micro-atmosphere" high in maybe hydrogen. But I could be wrong, I am still researching this. I will post any further findings.

Jereme Grisenti
plumbing - Blountville, Tennessee

(2005)

Q.If we were to rivet or otherwise attach a copper sleeve to galvanized chimney pipe, would this cause the galvanized pipe to fail? We have fireplace chimneys on the beach. we have several copper clad chimneys that are doing well, but the maker went out of business. Now we have only galvanized pipe to work with and the outside of it corroding causes an eye sore.

Bryan Malt
- San Diego, California
(2006)

Q.This is a piggy back question.

Three 1/2 inch copper pipes running from my basement to the Laundry room one floor above show the same kind of erosion as the picture accompanying the original question. In each case the green copper salts and pin holes developed where the pipes pass through the floor. You can see the leaking water from below but not from the laundry room level.

After one of two plumbers to replace one of the leaky pipes stated that at one point he felt a very mild electrically shock, I had an electrician check the system. The electrician said he could not find a problem. The electrician checked the system before and after the plumber felt the shock. We could not duplicate the shock with the plumber or the electrician.

The plumber reinstalled the three pipes and wrapped the new pipes in electrical tape at the point where the pipes go through the floor.

Since we have not yet found a source of electrical charge would it be prudent to ground the copper line to an unused galvanized pipe so any current would flow to the unused galvanized pipe? Any help would be appreciated.

Greg Butts
- Stafford, Virginia
(2007)

Q.When copper pipes are plastered over into walls do they need to be protected from corrosion either by cement or plaster?

Mrs M Bridger
Homeowner - Steyning, West Sussex, England
(2007)

Q.I have a brick wall in my bathroom and want to cut a groove in the brick run the copper pipe inside and cement it back up. Will this have a long term effect on the pipe
thanks daz

Dario Ruberto
designer - Toronto, Canada
(2007)

Q.I have some questions regarding electrolysis, or galvanic corrosion between the copper and galvanized water pipes in my house. The house in on a municipal system and it is my understanding that acidic or soft water is not a problem in my area.

I have extremely low pressure in the upstairs bathrooms, and moderately low on the main floor kitchen. In my basement I have galvanized pipes coming in from the street, they supply the hot water heater, and they run the hot water for a few feet beyond the tank. At one point they are connected directly to copper pipes which take the hot and cold supply upstairs to the bathrooms.

I intend to replace the galvanized pipe, but I am trying to decide whether or not to replace the copper pipes going upstairs, and as well the hot water heater.

To make this decision I need to understand a little more about what is going on with the electrolysis. Before discussing the ramifications with the hot water heater, I have the following questions:

1. Where the galvanized and copper connect in the basement, does the electrolysis happen only locally? It seems that the electrons would travel only within the magnetic field created by the metals and therefore only affect the pipes within about a foot or so of the connection. Or, since the water exists through all the pipes, does the electrolysis affect the copper all the way to the upstairs bathrooms?
2. Once the galvanized pipe is removed, will the electrolysis cease? (I understand that new copper and old copper will also create electrolysis but I assume this condition is not as severe.)
3. I understand why galvanized pipe corrodes when coupled with copper but I don't understand why it is that the galvanized pipe becomes filled with gunk on the inside and restricts flow, I would think the corroding would make it get slightly wider on the inside, not more narrow.
4. If I remove the galvanized pipe, can I clean out the remaining copper pipe to make sure there is no corrosive material setting in them? How is this performed?

As far as the hot water heater is concerned, galvanized pipe feeds it and takes the water out of it, however, there is copper flexible tubing that actually connects directly to it. I assume this means the heater has corrosive material in it and will likely not last as long. If I leave the existing heater in place and wait for it to fail, will it contaminate any new piping that I put in?

Also, if I run the new copper water service through the front yard within a few feet of the gas line will this cause electrolysis? If yes, will it affect the pipes inside the house or just in the front yard? Which pipe will get holes and which will narrow? Can I insulate the copper to prevent this?

Justin Zavislak
buyer, hobbyist - Seattle, Washington
July 13, 2008

Q.I have type k copper coming from the main to the shutoff in the house. after reporting a leak it was dug up to be repaired and all was found was a pipe with walls that have thinned considerably and covered in grooves resembling termite damage on wood. it was also riddled with pinholes.

the ground for my electrical is connected to this pipe. could that be a possible cause. please help. there other houses in the area that have had there lines replaced twice in the last 20 years.

thanks, cy

cyrus lambert
hobbyist - conne river, Newfoundland, Canada
July 20, 2008

A.Where I work they were having problems with the copper pipes. The anode rods in the water storage tanks had been all wore down. Plumbers found the electrical system grounding rod had been disconnected & everything was grounding through the plumbing, causing the problems. You might want to check but I think it is a code violation now to ground through your plumbing only.

Alex Hatfield
- Cedar Rapids, Iowa

August 30, 2008

Q.I have a problem identical to to the lead in this thread. Green spots on rigid type L 1/2 in copper pipe with water seepage. This 14+ ft run of pipe is leading from my gas fired hot water heater (after a few short copper fittings) across the drywall finished basement ceiling to a T that feeds hot water to most of the house. I noticed a small spot of mold on the ceiling, cut it open and found this pipe with green spots like the picture above and two of the spots (at different ends of this one section of pipe) have water seepage. There are several other copper pipes , cold water and feeds for hot water heating that have no green spots,(only this one length of hot water has the spots) and also a flexible gas line in the same bay. My fix is to replace this entire length. A difficult job for me, tight spaces overhead, and hope there are no other bad pipe in the house. Please confirm the cause of this. Is it likely to be elsewhere or reoccur?

David Goldman
- W Milford, New Jersey
September 3, 2008

A.In response to the gentleman who experienced a leak on a 1/2 copper pipe and then he split it exposing this thick green blob running on the inside for some unknown length. well from dealing with similar repairs and from years of experience in the field this green corrosion that you are talking about stands far from electrolysis. this green gunk/blob is what we use to solder/sweat our copper pipes with better known as FLUX this product is applied to the outside of the copper pipe once it has been cleaned and reamed. putting too much flux on the pipe and fitting will cause the excess to flow into the pipe and will settle on the inside of the pipe until the system gets energized and water flows flushing out the excess flux. if it was not flushed out and was left as is; guess what? call your plumber.....thanks.

Armando Olvera
- Costa Mesa, California

September 14, 2008

Q.Within the last 9 weeks we have called the plumber 3 times regarding a 4 ft. section of hot water copper piping. Each time a pinhole sealing leak about 4-6 feet away from a recently replaced(5 months ago that our plumber installed) electric hot water heater. After replacing 2 inch copper pipe sections at a time we finely asked him to change a length of pipe but, only last night we developed another leak, a foot over from the new pipe, closer to the water heater. Our house is 15 years old and we use city water. The leaky pipe had green discoloration at the leak points. The plumber says this problem could be expected in this area in homes using well water after about 20 years due to the highly acidic soil but we use city water and our pipes are in the sealing. He's suggesting we may need to replace all of our pipes but it seems strange that the leaks are all near the water heater. Could the water heater be faulty or it's installation be the problem?

Chris McQuillen
homeowner - Crescent City, California
September 14, 2008

A.Hi, Chris. I'd be pretty confident that is has to do with something electrical rather than well water. I think I'd call an electrician rather than calling the plumber again.

Regards,

Ted Mooney, finishing.com
Teds signature
Ted Mooney, P.E. RET
finishing.com
Pine Beach, New Jersey

(2005)September 30, 2008

Q.can a copper water line be spliced to an existing galvanized water pipe line?

Keith Medved
- Dyer, Indiana

A.Hi, Keith. When you transition from one kind of metal pipe to another, the correct thing to do is to use dielectric unions =>

These are unions that include a plastic insulator so there is no metal-to-metal contact. I'm not saying that this is always done, but it is the right way to insure that there can be no galvanic corrosion.

Regards,

Ted Mooney, finishing.com
Teds signature
Ted Mooney, P.E. RET
finishing.com
Pine Beach, New Jersey

October 24, 2008

Q.How can one determine the cause of frequent deterioration of a 3/4" copper water supply line? The section going bad is located underground at the block wall of the foundation. The home owner had to replace this line two times within the past year. The deterioration seems to occur on the outside of the pipe. There were no problems prior to the first replacement of this pipe section 9 months ago. The home has city water and uses a sump pump due to a high level of ground water. I don't know the pH level of the water. The basement is dry, but uses on a "floating slab" to channel away the ground water. I conducted load tests of the electric panel to verify the electric wiring. All tests proved satisfactory with only about .2 amps or less flowing to the ground wire. This is when a 35 amp load is applied to each 120 volt leg. This proves that practically all current is flowing back through the neutral conductor. The electric service is lacking the required two, 8 foot ground rods. There is only one ground rod, and it appears to have been installed as a ground for the telephone system. At this point I'm thinking the corrosion and deterioration was not caused by excessive current flowing top ground via this water supply line.

Dave Baylor
- Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
May 22, 2009

Q.Hi, Our house is 6 years old and from the time we moved in we have had this "green" problem. It has ruined my hair and has left stains in the sinks and toilets. We have had 2 different water softeners and 2 water heaters. We discussed this with the last water softener person and I guess they didn't have a clue about this problem. No one has until I
talked to some nerd at the company that tests the water for the city. He said that it was probably because of the fittings that the water softener company put on the copper pipes and if we didn't rectify the problem, we would eventually have pin size holes in the pipes and leaks! What do we do, who do we call and how do we go about fixing this problem! I want long hair again! Thanks!

Kathy L. Maxwell
- Grover Beach, California
December 8, 2009

A.While replacing the copper piping in a 150 year old home, I was puzzled by the green buildup inside of the pipe. Tracing the pipe I discovered that a ground clamp and wire from the circuit breaker box was connected to the cold water line 15' from the water meter where a jumper wire was also connected to the pipe from the street. In the circuit breaker box the Neutral buss was bonded to the Ground buss. That was okay. I also checked the sub panel to make sure the Ground buss and Neutral buss were not connected.

The wire mains from the electrical meter are aluminum. Current will find the least path of resistance, therefore current leakage to the piping is occurring. The remedy for this is to drive a conductive rod into the ground as deep as local code requires and connect a ground wire. Additionally I moved the ground clamp to the incoming side of the water meter, and removed the grounding jumper. As the water meter has dielectric connections the leakage can not return into the water piping since it is no longer grounded.

Bert Cooper
Equipment Designer - Williamsport, Pennsylvania

June 11, 2010

Q.Type K soft copper pinholes. We are having numerous issues with 3/4" and 1" and even a couple 2" services running from the mainline in the street to the property. 10 years ago or so we started having pinhole leaks appear on the copper always next to a flaired fitting so naturally everyone blamed it on a bad flair, then the specs changed and we were allowed to use compression fittings. This is now happening with the compression fittings as well, now everyone is blaming it on not de-burring the copper properly.

We just had to dig up a leak and found the pinhole leak in the middle of the 1" copper run (no fittings even close) and the copper was in a 4" sleeve under a major street which would eliminate the corrosive soil theory which the supplier will want to use, also the leak was on the top of the copper so a rubbing situation is not the answer. I have a question, is it possible for the copper at the time of production to have impurities introduced causing an electrolysis situation? Do you know of any other town having this problem. The suppliers here have no idea and have never even heard of this problem before which I find hard to believe. Thank you for your time and opinion

Bill Williams
water company - Tucson, Arizona
September 9, 2010

Q.I have recently installed and new water softener with an aerater in my home. My home is 26 years old and several weeks after the installation I noticed a blueish/green tint. I have had the water tested and the copper level is high, can the new system cause this?

Rachele Cancia
home owner -Sunrise, Florida
November 26, 2010

Q.I had an odd situation and was wondering if there is a known reason.
Last evening we noticed water dripping from the ceiling. Upon cutting open the ceiling, I noticed that the 3/4 hot water heating pipe (not sure if supply or return) was pressing firmly against the 1/2 hot water supply pipe, and that a leak had developed in the (smaller) hot water pipe where they touched. Fortunately, the heating pipe was connected to flexible copper to go up through the floor, and I was able to push the pipes apart and repair the supply line easily, but I am concerned what might have caused this leak.

Mike Paulson
former kitchen contractor, retired -falls church, Virginia

December 17, 2010

Below is an excerpt from Wikipedia's "Tap Water" page at en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tap_water

"Pin-hole leaks can occur anytime copper piping is improperly grounded and/or bonded; nonmetal piping, such as Pex or PVC, does not suffer from this problem. The phenomenon is known technically as stray current corrosion or electrolytic pitting. Pin-holing due to poor grounding or poor bonding occurs typically in homes where the original plumbing has been modified; homeowners may find a new plastic water filtration device or plastic repair union has interrupted the water pipe's electrical continuity to ground when they start seeing pinhole water leaks after a recent install. Damage occurs rapidly, usually being seen about six months after the ground interruption."

Q.So if I understand this correctly, adding a union may cause this problem? How does one connect copper pipe to galvanized steel then, or how to bond from copper pipe (cold water line, for example) to iron pipe (gas line, for example)? What materials is the bond conductor made of?

Andy Roberts
-Maynard, Massachusetts

May 13, 2011

A.I have seen electrolysis occur with galv. steel straps, hangers and supports, with copper. It usually occurs at the point.
Pin Hole leaks are mostly caused by incorrect installation of plumbing pipes.
For example, If a plumber uses a pipe cutter, to cut a pipe, it leaves a ridge on the inside of the pipe. This causes a ripple in the flow of water going through the pipe, and will eventually start eating away at the pipe, from the inside out. This was a common occurrence back when track homes were booming, and the track rats were doing high volume production, and not installing correctly.
You can verify this, by separating the pipes at the soldered joint, and stick you finger in the pipe and feel the edge. If you feel a sharp edge, then the fitter never filed the inside edge to remove this. Which this is why it will happen in multiple places in your home. Also the reason it happens more to cold water lines, is because you use your cold water more that your hot.

Keith Van Aalst

-Anaheim California


February 3, 2012 -- this entry appended to this thread by editor in lieu of spawning a duplicative thread

Q.I need to run natural gas to an outside heater. I have a 3/4" gal water line which is no longer used, am hoping to run type 'L' flex 1/2" copper line thru this line to supply gas to out side heater, is that possible or is there something I could wrap the copper with to make it work?

Bob Hendrickson
-Pontiac, Illinois, USA
February 25, 2012

Q.I have a bunch of copper fittings. 1/2", 3/4" & 1"; I had the fittings for a year or more. Some of the fittings are starting to get corrosion on them, a greenish thick coating. What is causing this and how do I control/stop it. All the fittings are new and never used.

Ken Kramlich
-Sacramento, California, USA
February 27, 2012

A.Hi, Ken.

Copper corrodes, but usually not that quickly. The simplest fix is probably to put them in a plastic bag with desiccant. Sodium benzotriazole is a copper preservative. You can use brass lacquer if you are trying to protect them for artistic rather than functional use. Good luck.

Regards,

Ted Mooney, finishing.com
Teds signature
Ted Mooney, P.E. RET
finishing.com
Pine Beach, New Jersey

December 18, 2012

A. After reading all of the postings about plumbing -
There are a lot of factors to touch on.

Any type of pipe can be connected to a different type of pipe with the right connectors that can be found at big box or good hardware store.

The green spots inside or outside of a copper pipe is cause by Flux.
Flux is an acid that is used by plumbers when the copper piped is fitted together and soldered.
When a plumber puts too much flux on the copper fittings or pipe - It stays inside the pipe and causes the pipe and or fittings to corrode because the water does not get hot enough to melt flux in order to get it flushed out of the pipe or fittings.
Even if you air pressure out the lines, all of the flux will not move out of the copper pipe because flux is a paste, and what little amount of flux that does move will stick to any joining type of Copper or Plastic or PVC or Galvanized pipe or fittings.
Green spots on the outside of a copper pipe or fittings usually means the plumber did not wipe off any left over flux on the out side of the copper pipe or fittings, or the copper pipe has started to corrode from the inside out from using too much flux inside the pipe and the flux has made its way to the outside of the copper pipe or fittings and needs to be replaced.

As far as electric or electric ground going through copper - Electricity will slowly soften up the excess flux that was used on the copper pipe or fittings.
As the flux softens, and because Flux is an acid, it will slowly break down the copper pipe or fittings and needs to be replaced.

NOTE:
Most electric or electric ground going through a copper pipe is not a high enough voltage to melt flux -- it will only soften the flux.

NOTE:
If your phone line is grounded to the copper line then this alone is enough to soften the flux.
If you put some flux on both the neg. and pos. post of a small charged 9 volt battery you will find that the flux will soften.
If you leave the flux on the battery the flux will corrode the battery because flux is an acid.

NOTE:
If your phone or cable is grounded to your copper pipe this is enough electric for a person to get a small shock when touching the copper pipe.
After a person touches the pipe and gets a small shock, it takes quite a while for the electric to build back up because the voltage is quite low.
It is because the voltage is so low that when a person touches a copper pipe and gets a small shock you have depleted the electric in the copper pipe and a shock will not happen again until the electric builds back up in the copper pipe.

NOTE:
Anytime you have to run a copper pipe behind a wall that will be closed in, only use HARD copper pipe (NOT ROLLED TUBING OR SOFT TUBING). Place the copper pipe inside of a piece of PVC pipe and do not have any fittings or couplings that have been soldered inside the PVC pipe.
If you need to soldier on fittings - Solder the fittings on after you have cleared the wall that will be closed in. It will also be helpful to use liquid foam between the copper pipe and the PVC pipe to stop any pipes from clanking when the water is turned on or off. You can pre make up the pipe with the foam in order to let the liquid foam set up.

I hope this information is helpful.

Jim Drake
- Fredericksburg, Virginia, USA

April 20, 2013

A.To those dismissing the "green blobs" as residual flux are not understanding what I think are the inquisitors' issues. We built our home in 2004 and within a couple of years we started experiencing problems in our master shower. Initially, I was able to disassemble the hot water supply in the manifolds and clear out the green "blobbish" crystals. Our master shower is large and has multiple shower heads and two shower manifolds. Since then the problem appear to only exist in the master bath "hot" water lines. I have never had any issue with the cold water lines.

To give a little more detail. The green blobs I am experiencing a hard crystals and not any type of pasty or flux consistency. I have found galvanized steel nipples between the copper supply lines and the brass shower fittings. Two years ago the galvanized nipple on the shower with the most serious blockage, had nearly corroded away completely. Fortunately I had decided inspect the inside of the shower wall after suspecting some sort of "electronic" cause. This morning I found the same union on the second shower head that is now almost completely blocked.

I should have recognized something was wrong in the construction of our plumbing lines during the build simply because of the sloppy solder joints. I have a rudimentary knowledge of plumbing as my father was a plumber. Unfortunately, I was traveling extensively and didn't have time to address the bootleg plumbers my builder contracted.
I guess I was depending on the inspectors to alert us of any issues, but I have learned that lesson.

In summary, I would conclude that the green crystals are formed from kind electric current activity in addition to the hardness of your water. Our municipal water is very hard and my water softener is worthless so we are going to rip out the bathroom walls to see what other surprises we have in store and get a new water softening system.

Vaughn Broadnax
- Carmel, Indiana, USA

copper pipe secured with metal straps
May 21, 2013

Q.During a bathroom remodel, the plumber used some metal strapping (likely galvanized steel)to further secure the copper piping from the shower valve to the shower outlet. (see photo) Days later, my contractor had secured a loose toilet supply valve with a plastic part and explained that a metal material could negatively interact with the copper and eventually cause a leak. (I think he himself had just come upon this info when he went to home depot to pick-up the part.)
I then remembered seeing how the plumber used the metal strapping to basically tie back the copper piping. The wall has since been scratch coated and is about to be floated. I've alerted my contractor about this and am awaiting a reply. I really do not want the float to happen until I know for sure that there is definitely no problem with the set-up, or, until it is corrected. Any input on this would greatly be appreciated.

Jack Goldstein
- Mission Viejo, California, USA

May 22, 2013

A.Hi Jack. You need 3 things for galvanic corrosion:
- dissimilar metals so there is an inherent voltage between them,
- metallic contact path between the two metals so that electrons can flow from one metal to the other,
- a moist and conductive ionic path so that positively charged ions can follow the electrons, transporting atoms of metal from one point to another.

You certainly have the first two, but whether the third condition is met well enough for serious concern is always the question, and sometimes hard to define. When such a condition is sealed behind a wall, it sounds to me like poor practice -- then again, I'm not a plumber. You might see if you can find anything in the plumbing code about it. The problem would have been easy to avoid with any kind of plastic between the pipe and strap; you can hopefully get a scrap of Visqueen in between them without much damage to the wall. Good luck.

Regards,

Ted Mooney, finishing.com
Teds signature
Ted Mooney, P.E. RET
finishing.com
Pine Beach, New Jersey

June 3, 2013

Q.Having pin hole issues on the cold water line repeatedly over approx. 8 years -- same area.
The house used to have copper pipe coming in from the street and we did not have a ground strap on it. I can see how the pin holes would happen then. Then the copper pipe was replaced with PVC out to the street so there seemed to be no need for the ground on the street side of the meter, but I left the ground connected on the house side (still copper here). Was this wrong? Still another pin hole problem this year.
Tired of water leaks, Tom

Tom Canarecci
- Mishawaka, Indiana, USA
July 11, 2013

Q.We have an apartment building that keeps getting leaks in the first apartment. I have read everything and understand the problem, but we don't have money to replace all the pipes, so every few months there is a leak. The last time we had to replace all the carpet because it was leaking over a full weekend.

I have been told by one plumber that he heard of a product that can be put in the pipes that would coat the insides and help prevent the pinholes from developing.
Is there any such product?

Also someone told me of a product that can be painted on the pipes like a silicone or latex component that might be able to help.

If you know of any products like this that I can try, please let me know.

Thank you.

Lisa Keylon
- Fountain Valley, California, USA
February 11, 2016

Q. I just noticed there is corrosion at the elbo 90 connector of hot water copper pipe going out of water heater. Both are copper pipes - so wondering what's causing the corrosion. Otherwise I'm planning to
Simply planning to use fix-it stick/Keeny pipe wrap tape as temporary fix until I get time to call plumber to cut the pipe and rejoin.
Please advise:
1) is it ok to fix temporarily
2) if I need to dig in further to find the cause before I fix it.
3) are there any other things I need to check / replace while I'm fixing it.
Btw- this is house is 10 yrs old.

Venu Reddy
- Waukee, Iowa

April 8, 2016

A. You can also use a brass nipple between copper and galvanize .

Rodolfo ruiz
- Pasadena California usa
April 2016

thumbs up signThanks, Rudolfo. Yes, you can use a brass nipple between them ... but I don't think it will do much towards stopping galvanic corrosion.

Regards,

pic of Ted Mooney
Ted Mooney, P.E. RET
finishing.com
Pine Beach, New Jersey
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Sunday, March 11, 2018

11 Most Badass RVs You Can Buy Today

Read article : 11 Most Badass RVs You Can Buy Today

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The IKON by Renegade takes semi-truck styling and combines it with luxury amenities and industry leading self-sufficiency. From handcrafted solid hardwood cabinetry and plush Villa Ultraleather furniture to quartz countertops and heated porcelain tile floors, the good life comes standard in this RV. Tech-wise, it also features things like Samsung 4K LED TVs, Bose Home Theater Sound, and a set of high-tech stainless steel appliances that deliver the goods when it’s time to eat.

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The <a href=Winnebago Brave takes vintage styling and applies modern technology and mechanics to form a restomod RV | Winnebago" width="757" height="424" />

The Winnebago Brave takes vintage styling and applies modern technology and mechanics to form a resto-mod RV | Winnebago

Back in the late 1960s and 1970s, there was no mistaking a Winnebago motorhome for another RV thanks to its bold “Flying W” badging, iconic “eyebrow” designs, clever interior, and boxy body lines. But over time the iconic styling of yesteryear began to morph into a mish-mash of ho-hum engineering and bland RV styling.

But now it’s time to fall in love with classic RV styling all over again, because Winnebago has followed in Dodge’s Challenger footsteps and has rolled out a resto-mod version of the machine that got America hooked on RV life in the first place.

Vintage interior within the Winnebago Brave looks straight out of the 1970s | Winnebago

Vintage interior within the Winnebago Brave looks straight out of the 1970s | Winnebago

The all-new Winnebago Brave takes vintage styling cues and blends them with modern practicality, efficiency, safety, and useful amenities in order to give the next generation of motorhome enthusiast an RV that is both retro and reliable. While you won’t be able to pick one up for the $4,000 price tag associated with the original, these classic and quirky motorhomes are priced to fit a more modest budget, and can be customized in a wide array of colors and interior design layouts.

3. Global X Vehicles Pangea “Perky Mog”

Global X Vehicles takessafety orange and gives it a new purpose on this <a href=Pangea roof lifter" width="757" height="504" />

Global X Vehicles takes safety orange and gives it a new purpose on this Pangea roof lifter | Global X Vehicles

Global Expedition Vehicles’ Pangea Lifting Roof version of the unstoppable Mercedes-Benz UniMog can be built on either a medium or heavy duty chassis, and can be tailored around various cab configurations. Referred to as the “Perky Mog,” this clever 4×4 RV has a unique lowered position that allows the windows to be covered with the hard side top section, while maintaining full walking height within. Once in the raised position, a huge loft area becomes exposed, which can be reconfigured to the buyer’s preferred sleeping layout, and can hold up to two queen size beds.

Inside the <a href=Pangea Lifting Roof monster are gorgeous living quarters that feature ornate wood floors, and a loft for sleeping | Global X Vehicles" width="757" height="504" />

Inside the Pangea Lifting Roof monster are gorgeous living quarters that feature ornate wood floors, and a loft for sleeping | Global X Vehicles

Since each vehicle is tailor-made to the buyer’s specifications, there is no cut-and-dry approach to purchasing one of these machines, so be prepared for a lengthy build list and turnaround time. A few of our favorite touches include the G-KAS mounting body isolating mount system, having cab-to-cabin access, exterior tool/utility boxes, how the seating area converts into an additional sleeping space, and how the stair treads are hinged and lift to reveal hidden storage. Add on a duo of high efficiency 200-watt PV solar panels, a 140 gallon fresh water tank, amazing off-road capabilities, and the ability to buy one in 16- to 18-foot lengths, and you’ve got one hell of a capable 4×4 RV on your hands.

4. Newmar King Aire

Engineered to embody “the pinnacle of luxury travel,” the Newmar King Aire takes style, comfort, and technology to a whole new level, with the 2017 model sporting a restyled exterior, and a Spartan K3 tag axle chassis that has been attached to a steel superstructure. Inside, contrast cross stitching highlights the dash, which features a wireless non-slip charging pad, full LCD driver display, and two 12.1-inch touchscreens for system controls and 360-degree outward visibility. Meanwhile, a one-off 11-speaker JBL cockpit audio system and exclusive fabrics from Ralph Lauren add additional flare to the front of the cabin.

Newmar's <a href=King Aire line takes a unique, but very ornate approach to RV-making, and the amount of time, money, and energy that goes into making one is insane | Newmar" width="757" height="482" />

Newmar’s King Aire line takes a unique, but very ornate approach to RV-making, and the amount of time, money, and energy that goes into making one is insane | Newmar

For tailgating purposes, two Girard Nova side awnings extend over a specially designed sidewall housing a 43-inch Sony 4K UHD TV and a Bluetooth-compatible Bose soundbar, which rests atop one of the tallest basements in the Class A segment. Buyers can choose Maple, Cherry, or Rift Oak hardwood cabinetry, while polished porcelain plank tile, heated and cooled Pompeii leather front seats, and a 49-inch Sony 4K UHD TV come standard, with a Blu-ray/DVD player and Bose CineMate home theater system. The King Aire’s master bath is available with an industry-leading 50-by-34-inch shower, complete with full tile and a Fresca panel with massage sprayers and a foot washer, and even comes finished with a Whirlpool stacked washer and dryer.

5. Earthroamer XV HD

Riding atop a Ford F-750 chassis, the <a href=Earthroamer XV HD is about as ferocious as it gets outside of military spec | Earthroamer" width="757" height="409" />

Riding atop a Ford F-750 chassis, the Earthroamer XV HD is about as ferocious as it gets outside of military spec | Earthroamer

EarthRoamer has just expanded its product line in order to offer the highly anticipated F-750-based XV-HD. Designed to accommodate up to eight people comfortably and sleep six, this off-road RV features enough ingenuity to make living off-grid for a few days a breeze, as the HD offers anyone looking for wilderness adventures both driving prowess and fantastic amenities.

Extra windows and a raised roof allows living quarters to feel anything but confined in Earthroamer's XV HD | Earthroamer

Extra windows and a raised roof allows living quarters to feel anything but confined in Earthroamer’s XV HD | Earthroamer

The XV-HD takes luxury off-grid ingenuity and infuses it with solar panels, a monolithic battery bank, 46-inch military tires, 200 gallons of fresh water, a compact washer/dryer, and a whole lot more. At just over 35-feet long this is no mini RV either, giving all the more reason for Earthroamer to utilize Ford’s 6.7-liter PowerStroke Diesel engine and all 725 pound-feet of torque.

6. Bespoke Coach Sprinter Van

A <a href=typical Bespoke Coach Sprinter is not overtly adorned with external upgrades, but leans more toward a VIP look | Bespoke Coach" width="757" height="466" />

A typical Bespoke Coach Sprinter is not overtly adorned with external upgrades, but leans more toward a VIP look | Bespoke Coach

This next road trip specialist is a bit of a hybrid, because while it isn’t a massive RV, it isn’t really a van either. Bespoke Coachworks has been customizing vehicles in Southern California since 1985, and over the past 30 years has created countless custom audio, video, interior, and exterior solutions for celebrities and the elite. So when the Sprinter van finally began getting imported and badged by Dodge and Freightliner back in 2007, requests for customized versions flooded their ears.

After decades of working with companies like Bentley, Rolls Royce, and Mercedes-Benz, the thought of pimping out vans seemed a bit strange, but after one luxury van conversion spawned the next, Bespoke Coachworks knew it was on to something. From opulent mobile offices, to family coaches with built-in beds and entertainment suites, this unique chassis offers an endless array of options for anyone wanting a small and swanky RV, all without the headaches associated with piloting a land barge.

The interior of one of Bespoke Coach's Sprinter vans may not be large, but it certainly is luxurious | Bespoke Coach

The interior of one of Bespoke Coach’s Sprinter vans may not be large, but it certainly is luxurious | Bespoke Coach

Bespoke Coach’s luxury mobile office incorporates the best technology, design, and materials into a first-class experience, tasking top engineers, designers, and fabricators to make coaches that are both user friendly and innovative. A few of our favorite options include the driver wall partition with motorized privacy window, custom upholstered walls and ceilings, the marine-grade circuit breaker panel, and those Maybach inspired captains chairs. There are also standard iPads, Samsung TV screens, power inverters, customizable lighting, Focal audio upgrades, and Dynamat sound deadening throughout, with a laundry list of unique upgrade options waiting on the wing for the right price.

7. Marathon Show Coach

Marathon Coach, Inc. is widely revered as the world’s largest luxury bus converter and dealer, and specializes in taking commercial buses supplied by Prevost and customizing them into the most opulent RVs imaginable. Built around a Prevost H3-45 chassis, these custom buses feature engineer-driven technologies and a unique “California design viewpoint” that leans toward shades of warm taupe and rich chocolate brown, with deep indigo blue accents inside and out.

Inside, buyers will find things like a marble, limestone, and travertine “basket weave” floor inlay that has been surrounded by Italian porcelain tile, as well as a custom fireplace enclosure designed for both ambiance and warmth. There are soft touches like velvet tufted sofas finished with chrome nail heads, and a stitched leather recliner at the large work desk for when duty calls on the open road.

The <a href=Marathon Show Coach is a swanky, multi-million dollar cruiser designed for the world's elite | Marathon Coach Inc." width="757" height="504" />

The Marathon Show Coach is a swanky, multi-million dollar cruiser designed for the world’s elite | Marathon Coach Inc.

In the back you will find features like an oversized glass and limestone mosaic shower with a telescopic, glass pocket door that goes opaque at the touch of a button, an integrated, 8-inch rain shower head, as well as a hand-held shower wand. There also are Hans Grohe faucets and fixtures, custom-made hammered stainless steel sinks, a walk-in closet, a TechLink electrical system, and Crestron controls.

8. Sportsmobile Classic 4×4

With the camper lowered and doors closed, this house on wheels turns into a 4x4 Ford battering ram | Sportsmobile

With the camper lowered and doors closed, this house on wheels turns into a 4×4 Ford battering ram | Sportsmobile

The Sportsmobile Classic is one of the most recent creations in a long line of heavy duty 4×4 “Adventure Vans” coming out of Sportsmobile. After a successful prototype testing phase, the Classic 4×4 can now be had in a Ford Cutaway body that molds it with a steel reinforced fiberglass shell and an integrated penthouse top that drops flush into the shell for streamlining purposes.

The Sportsmobile 4WD Vehicle is designed to appeal to the most discerning off-road enthusiast, and in order to do so only the best heavy-duty components are installed for a balance between maximum off-road performance and on-road comfort. Over five decades of experience in the designing and manufacturing of van campers has led to this point, and while these machines can only be had on 2008–2014 Ford E-350 models equipped with the 6.8-liter V10 and barn doors, sourcing a gently used donor shouldn’t be an issue.

Sportsmobile has long been synonymous with hardcore off-road vehicles that can be lived out of | Sportsmobile

Sportsmobile has long been synonymous with hardcore off-road vehicles that can be lived out of | Sportsmobile

Full production of the Classic started in late 2016, and the 4WD Conversion model includes a lot of hardcore 4×4 upgrades. A few key features include an Advance Adapter Atlas II All Gear Driven transfer case, a Dynatrac Pro-Roc 60 front axle, Dana 60 rear axle, Fox 2.0 Performance Series Shocks, a high knuckle front end for extra tie rod clearance, and an extra heavy duty steering arm.

We could go on about the military wrap springs that were specifically designed for this van, or how the front sway bar comes with a quick disconnect system and custom shocks, but it would take forever to go over this list of performance upgrades. Finished with a practical and rugged, adventure-ready interior, this RV is a pop-top for the most discerning 4×4 enthusiast.

9. ShowHauler Motorhomes

ShowHauler specializes in <a href=melding semi tractor trailer strength with high dollar RV resplendency | ShowHauler" width="757" height="568" />

ShowHauler specializes in melding semi tractor trailer strength with high dollar RV resplendency | ShowHauler

ShowHauler Motorhomes are heralded as “the safest motor coach on the road,” and their coach frames utilize a unique tubular steel structure consisting of super strong floors, sidewalls, and ceilings. The underbelly is completely undercoated, block foam is placed between steel side-wall supports prior to bonding aluminum exterior walls to the frame, no rivets are used, interior walls are reinforced to create a structural cage, and adhesive bonding is used to apply a bubble type insulation.

Being built on a standard truck chassis with a higher Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) than a typical motorhome allows for greater carrying capacities, so weight is never a concern and neither are highway crosswinds nor oncoming traffic. Internally, buyers get to choose the hardwood they want for cabinets and fabric patterns and colors, all window framing is finished with hand-formed hardwood, counter-tops are genuine Corian, and buyers can choose either polished ceramic tile floors or carpet.

A ShowHauler interior can be outfitted with anything the buyer desires, it just depends upon how deep your pocketbook goes | ShowHauler

A ShowHauler interior can be outfitted with anything the buyer desires, it just depends upon how deep your pocketbook goes | ShowHauler

We personally dig the cab pass-thru, having 7-feet of interior headroom, the cab-over bunk and vent, the 12 gallon gas/electric water heater, 30,000 BTU ducted gas furnace, and the ability to tow damn near anything. ShowHauler Motorhomes are part luxury living quarters, part big-rig, and all cross-country cruiser.

10. Mercedes-Benz Zetros 2733 A 6×6

Mercedes-Benz Zetros 2733 A 6x6 is one hell of an intimidating RV

Mercedes-Benz Zetros 2733 A 6×6 is one hell of an intimidating RV | Daimler

We eluded to it in our intro, and here it is up close. The all-wheel drive behemoth commonly referred to as the Mercedes-Benz Zetros 2733 A 6×6 is based off a semi with a cab-behind-engine layout, and offers sensational traction and versatility, plus customizable living arrangements.

This triple-axled truck typically weighs in between 25 and 27 tons, and while its powertrain and chassis configuration either come out of the Actros and Axor series of full-size work trucks, it also utilizes a unique Unimog/G-Class 6×6 approach. Powered by a 7.2-liter inline six-cylinder engine, this lumbering beast only puts down around 326 horsepower, but generates around 1,000 foot-pounds of torque in the 1,200–1,600 RPM range.

With room for ATV loading in the rear, this 27-ton monster is all you need to dominate the wild

With room for ATV loading in the rear, this 27-ton monster is all you need to dominate the wild | Daimler

Buyers can opt for either a hydraulically/pneumatic nine-speed manual transmission (eight forward gears plus crawler), which has a direct-ratio top gear, or they can get the six-speed Allison 3000 SP/PR automatic. The permanent all-wheel drive VG 1700 transfer case has an off-road ratio that is about 20% lower than its all-wheel drive cousins, so crawl control is a strong suit here. Towing capacity has also been increased by about 70% when compared to the on-road gears, and torque distribution between the front and rear axle(s) is 1:3.21 thanks to the splitter box, which becomes 1:1 if the differential lock is engaged.

All told, the Zetros has three mechanical differential locks, all of which can be easily selected via a rotary control that shows the logical sequence in which they need to be engaged. Drivers must start with the center-axle before engaging the rear, with the front remaining the final option, reserved for when terrain is at its most extreme.

11. Iveco Astra HD8 8×6 Expedition Truck

Expedition Trucks always has something insane on its for sale page, like this 8x6 behemoth for instance | <a href=Expedition Truck Brokers" width="757" height="505" />

Expedition Trucks always has something insane on its for sale page, like this 8×6 behemoth for instance | Expedition Truck Brokers

Our final contender today comes from Expedition Truck Brokers, a company that has specialized in connecting buyers and sellers of expedition trucks for over 20 years thanks to a crew that tackles every aspect of the purchasing and customization process. Everything from buying and building, to long distance overland travel and selling transactions get attended to by this highly trained team of 4×4 specialists, and getting things right requires “first hand experience with vehicle based travel in rough conditions through remote regions.”

Simply put, Expedition Truck Brokers sources hardcore off-road “wheel estate” for private individuals and professionals in order to provide the ideal vehicle for overland journeys, expedition support, promotional events, and film. While most people would never need something as insane as an 8×6 diesel behemoth, there is a very particular kind of clientele out there that has the bankroll and need for something like what you see here.

It may take 8 hours to parallel park, but this <a href=Iveco Astra HD8 8x6 also features 8 wheels and more torque than an ocean liner | Expedition Truck Brokers" width="757" height="504" />

It may take eight hours to parallel park, but this Iveco Astra HD8 8×6 also features eight wheels and more torque than an ocean liner | Expedition Truck Brokers

While plenty of other heavy-duty RV options are available on the Expedition Truck Brokers’ website, it’s this Iveco Astra HD8 that has our vote for most badass of the bunch. Professionally manufactured in Germany, this chassis has been widely revered internationally as a construction and mining industry staple, but never a weekend getaway machine … until now.

A few of our favorite highlights and features outside of the Astra’s massive cabin and practical living quarters are the highly autonomous multi-climate design that handles both tropical and frigid environments, and the 600 horsepower EURO-5 Cursor 13 diesel engine. There’s also that dedicated motorcycle platform, all those external storage units, and a slew of locking differentials designed to tackle any terrain.

(cheatsheet.com, https://goo.gl/I0gYaI)

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