Why Zimbabwe should be your next holiday destination

Read article : Why Zimbabwe should be your next holiday destination

Source: Why Zimbabwe should be your next holiday destination – telegraph.co.uk  13 December 2016

Last month, after years of discussion and a £120 million loan from China, Zimbabwe’s Victoria Falls International Airport was finally opened by President Robert Mugabe.

There are no direct flights from the UK as yet, but with a runway capable of handling the world’s largest planes, plus 28 aircraft docking bays which could triple the capacity of the old airport to 1.5 million passengers a year, it looks set to usher in a new era of tourism for Zimbabwe.

When I landed there from Johannesburg a few weeks before the official opening, there was already a buzz in the air – particularly at the Victoria Falls Hotel, where the patio restaurant was full of diners in celebratory mood.

One official told me that between 3,000 and 5,000 visitors are arriving by foot each day on the Zimbabwe side of the falls (which straddle the border with Zambia), a clear sign that the country is back on the tourism map. The number of arrivals should increase dramatically now that the airport is complete.

What can visitors expect? On the one hand, “Zim” is spectacular, a place the BBC’s former Africa correspondent Michael Buerk called “the most beautiful country on the continent”. It has impressive natural features: mighty rivers (the Zambezi and Limpopo), game-filled plains (at Mana Pools), a lake half the size of Belgium (Kariba), a national park the size of Wales (Hwange) and boulder-strewn hills adorned with ancient San art (Matobo).

But it is also a country that has seen horrific genocide, its people brutally suppressed by politicians who have tried to quash democracy, destroying a once-thriving agricultural economy and creating hunger, homelessness and 80 per cent unemployment.

Despite all this, Zimbabweans are positive people, their motto being “We’ll make a plan”. Now that Robert Mugabe is 93, their plan – of a country without him – is gaining momentum. Tourism will be a big part of that.

I have been back to Zimbabwe every year for the past three decades, to visit the country of my birth. On my latest trip, I was amazed by the number of old friends returning to tourism as a way of making a living.

Over two weeks, every camp I stayed in was full of international guests, enjoying an experience every bit as enriching as in any other southern African country – and substantially cheaper than neighbouring Botswana or Zambia.

For those who want to see more of the country, new internal flights on the low-cost FastJet airline, together with private aviation companies, make this possible. I combined flying and driving around the country’s three biggest tourist destinations – Victoria Falls, Hwange and Lake Kariba. Here is my guide to the highlights.

The Explorations Company (01367 850566; explorations company.com) is offering a 12-night trip to Zimbabwe, with three nights at Zambezi Sands, four at Little Makalolo and The Hide, and three at Changa Safari Camp, from £4,790 per person, including flight, transfers, full board and most activities.

Victoria Falls

Why go?

One of the Seven Natural Wonders of the World, this is the world’s greatest mass of falling water. Some 5,633ft wide and 343ft tall, the falls are as impressive today as when David Livingstone wrote that “scenes so lovely must have been gazed upon by angels in their flight”.

On the Zimbabwean side there are far more viewpoints (16) than in Zambia, including one above the thundering Devil’s Cataract and four facing Main Falls, where at peak season more than 27 million cubic feet of water fall per minute, drenching onlookers.

Because Victoria Falls has been a hub of tourism for decades, there are lots of activities on offer, from bungee jumping, abseiling and white-water rafting to diving with crocodiles. For the less adventurous, there are craft-shopping trips and sunset cruises.

While first-timers might prefer to stay in the town – at the relaxed Ilala Lodge (ilalalodge.com), the glamorous colonial Victoria Falls Hotel (victoriafallshotel.co) or the family-friendly Victoria Falls Safari Lodge (africaalbidatourism.com), new camps have been built just a 45-minute drive out of town – a welcome option for those who prefer to get away from it all after they have seen the falls.

The place to stay

Zambezi Sands, a bush camp on a remote stretch of the Zambezi river, was created by conservationist Mark Butcher. He has been protecting Zimbabwe’s wilderness for decades, both as a national parks ranger and through his community-based Imvelo Safaris group (imvelosafarilodges.com), to which Zambezi Sands belongs.

Butcher knows the falls area intimately and can arrange almost any activity, from fly-fishing for tigerfish to photographing lunar rainbows over the falls at night.

On this tranquil bend in the river, hippos snort and luminous blue kingfishers swoop. In the surrounding Zambezi National Park, plentiful wildlife roams. Days can be spent on game drives (mainly for elephant), walking through forests of Jackalberry and palm, fishing or canoeing with naturalists or affable camp managers.

This elegant, contemporary camp operates like a friendly boutique hotel. Its eight enormous Bedouin tents are on timber decks, with a plunge pool, outdoor shower, living area and bathroom with roll-top bath.

The big communal living room has colonial-style furnishings, the wide deck outside features a firepit (a cosy spot for stargazing) and the outdoor dining tables are in the daytime shaded by big cream umbrellas. The food is fresh, inventive and presented with pride by 27-year-old chef Frankie Banda.

Best of the rest

For real luxury, Matetsi River Lodge (andbeyond.com) offers the best of all worlds: big elegant rooms, a wine cellar and spa, as well as water activities and game viewing.

The 13 new tents at the Victoria Falls River Lodge (victoriafallsriverlodge.com) are airy and contemporary, with private plunge pools – but views are of the outskirts of Livingstone in Zambia, so the camp doesn’t feel remote.

The Elephant Camp (theelephantcamp.com) is highly recommended, but it is in the bush rather than on the river.

Hwange National Park

Why go?

This game park is not just huge – 5,625 square miles, about nine times the size of Greater London – but also boasts a wider variety of wildlife than anywhere else in Africa. As well as an estimated 50,000 elephants, in herds as large as 400, it is home to more than 100 species of mammal and 400 types of bird – a biodiversity to match that of the Kruger National Park in South Africa or South Luangwa in Zambia, but with fewer people, camps and cars.

What game you see depends on the area. In the hillier north-west (near Sinamatela, Nahimba and Camp Hwange), wild dogs are common. In the centre, near Main Camp, lions are frequently spotted, including prides that have perfected the art of elephant hunting. In the south-east, grassy vleis attract a staggering range of game.

Over four days in the central area, staying at three camps, I saw elephants, lions, a cheetah with three cubs, big herds of buffalo and giraffe, as well as relatively rare sable, eland and roan, and birds ranging from a giant verrose owl, with its distinctive pink eyelids, to the tiniest golden shaft-tailed whydah, trailing long glossy feathers to attract a mate.

The place to stay

Of three camps recently refurbished by Wilderness Safaris (wilderness-safaris.com), the smallest – Little Makalolo – has the most charm. (The others are Davidson’s, with a stylish new thatched lounge and pool, and the totally rebuilt Linkwasha, which has swanky new tents with sliding glass doors.)

Sleeping just 12, Little Makalolo is contemporary in style, with six mesh-walled tents containing shabby-chic furnishing. It feels more like a friendly little bush home than a luxury camp, and is set beside a watering hole where so many wild animals congregate that at night you are accompanied to your tent by an armed ranger.

Tents feature deep copper basins, outdoor showers open to the stars, comfortable beds with crisp white linen, and strong reading lights (a rare but much-appreciated extra).

Best of the rest

The Hide (thehide.com), a homely thatched camp built by the Preston family in 1992, is set on a private two-square-mile concession on the park’s edge. Its 10 thatched A-frame rooms are well laid out, with shaded verandas, practical shelving and, in the honeymoon suites, outdoor baths and double showers.

Head guide Nicholas Gaunje has worked for the family for 13 years, and imparts knowledge with sensitivity and dry humour, whether on a walking safari, a sleep-out in the Dove’s Nest treehouse, or a night drive (allowed on the concession).

He remembers the days when rhinos were frequently spotted in the area. “We haven’t seen any for about three years,” he says. “If it continues like this, the Earth won’t have any left.”

Lake Kariba

Why go?

This is one of the biggest man-made lakes in the world, like an inland sea covering an area roughly the size of Wales. When it was created in 1958 to generate hydroelectricity, more than 1,700 animals were rescued by conservationists from the rising waters and relocated to the adjacent Matusadona National Park.

Today the 540-square-mile park teems with wildlife and has just three places to stay within it: Rhino Safari Camp (rhinosafaricamp.com) in the north, a haunt of fishermen; Spurwing Island (spurwingisland.com), a favourite with families; and Changa Safari Camp, a smart new camp on a peninsula in the east.

Lake Kariba is a place where there is little to do but take in the big skies, the spectacular escarpment that stretches all the way to the Rift Valley, large expanses of water and the rich diversity of wildlife on its shores.

Activities revolve around water: watching birds, elephants, buffaloes and sometimes lions from a small speedboat; taking an atmospheric sunset cruise; kayaking (while looking out for hippos and 14ft-long crocodiles more than a century old) and fishing for bass, catfish and prized tigerfish.

The place to stay

Changa Safari Camp (changasafaricamp.com) is located  on the shores of Matusadona National Park. Owners Kevin Higgins and Angus Preston are keen conservationists intent on eradicating poaching, which is prevalent here. This they hope to achieve through their new NGO, the Matusadona Anti-Poaching Project (MAPP), and by attracting tourists back to enjoy Zimbabwean wildlife.

The camp – 23 miles from the main Kariba harbour – can be reached in 40 minutes by Avoca Transfers’ 16-seater speedboat, or in 20 minutes by plane to Fothergill Island. Whichever option you take, the journey there is an adventure in itself; we saw elephants before we had even reached the camp.

Like the Hide, Changa has been designed by people who understand what makes a safari pleasurable. The eight tents – two of which can accommodate a family of four – are large and well spaced out, with shaded verandas, comfy living spaces and bedrooms enclosed by big mesh windows which keep out bugs without cutting off the views.

There are several places in which to socialise, too: a bar shaped like a boat for sundowner G&Ts; a plunge pool surrounded by shaded bandas; a living area with a library and squashy sofas; and a dining space where the chef creates delicious buffets, from Cape pickled fish and Neapolitan meatballs to inventive salads and fresh fruit platters, all served with South African wines.

Most guests spend their time either out on the water, G&T in hand, or walking on the shores with an armed guide, seeing elephants, buffaloes and occasionally lions.

Best of the rest

Hire a houseboat. Arguably the most glamorous is the Matusadona (mv-matusadona.com), sleeping up to six.

House of the Week: Secluded home in Tully features modern updates

Read article : House of the Week: Secluded home in Tully features modern updates

TULLY, N.Y. - When Jonathan Colino, and his wife, Rachel, were in the market to buy a house, they were intrigued by the home at 925 Route 11 North in Tully.

"I loved the land and the architecture with its cathedral ceiling and the house's peaks and valleys," Colino said.

The house was built on more than seven acres of land, and the property is very secluded. The couple has only one neighbor. More than five acres of the area is heavily wooded.

But while they found the exterior of the home beautiful, the Colinos thought "the style" inside the house needed a bit of an update.

"We wanted a more modern style and less of a country-feel," Colino said.

Within a year or two, the couple were hard at work accomplishing that goal.

They upgraded the home's lighting and flooring, added a whole-house generator, and radiant heating and air conditioning throughout the house.

The front foyer is beautiful with an unique and elegant stairway and is decorated with an ornate chandelier.

The home's dining room is to the left where an office once was. The owners knocked down some walls and built archways to create a better flow from the kitchen.

The kitchen itself was expanded. The amount of cabinets available was nearly doubled, modern kitchen appliances were installed and a large island and coffee bar were added.

The coffee bar area, with its views of the back yard and comfy chairs, is Colino's favorite area of the house.

The great room is large and has a fireplace. A built-in bar has a truly unique back splash made from wine corks.

Another dramatic update was the finished basement. Over 750 square feet of living space were added. Half of the space is made up of office and movie room, with surround sound and a projection screen. The other half is a workout room and space for storage.

"Wow! We did a lot of changing," Colino joked after finishing the list.

Outdoors the prominent feature is the covered patio off the kitchen which is connected by a stone walkway to an uncovered patio, which is large enough for outdoor dining.

The couple is moving for work reasons and admit it they will miss the updates they have done.

"And the tranquility of the place," Colino added.

An open house is scheduled for Sunday, Aug. 13, from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m.

THE DETAILS

Address: 925 Route 11 North, Tully, N.Y. 13159

Price: $469,900

Size: 3,312 square feet

Acreage: 7.4 acres

Monthly Mortgage: $1,764 (based on this week's national average rate of 3.86 percent, according to Freddie Mac, for a 30-year fixed-rate mortgage with a 20 percent down payment. Fees and points not included.)

Total taxes: $13,966 (Based on assessed value of $400,000)

Built: 2003

School District: Tully

Kitchen: The cherry kitchen has been expanded recently, with the number of cabinetry nearly doubled. A coffee bar, island and second sink are some of the new upgrades. Modern appliances have been added including a six-burner gas stove with a double oven.

Master Bedroom: One of four bedrooms in the home. Very spacious with hardwood floors. The master suite is on the first floor and has a walk-in closet and a sitting room which could be used as a nursery or reading/meditation room.

Master Bathroom: The master bathroom has a soaking tub, a rainfall step-in shower and two sinks. It was one of four bathrooms in the house.

Living spaces: The home has been completely upgraded with a "better flow" and more modern feel. The front foyer, with its unique and elegant stairway and chandelier, has the home's dining room and a sitting room off it. The large living room has updated electric lighting, a fireplace and tall windows. There is a wet bar. Home also includes a first-floor laundry. The home is energy efficient with radiant heating, air conditioning and Anderson windows with custom shades throughout.

Finished basement: The finished basement adds 750 square feet of living space. A movie room with a projection screen is located there. There is also an office, workout space and plenty of storage areas.

Outdoors: There is an attached three-car garage. Built on over seven acres of land, two of which need to be mowed. The rest of the lot is wooded. A covered patio keeps you out of the rain, and is connected to an uncovered patio by a stone walkway. The yard has an invisible fence and is very secluded. Just 15 minutes from Syracuse.

Agent: Eric Maley

Realty USA

Address: 102 West Seneca Street, Manlius, N.Y. 13104

Phone: (315) 391-3454

Website: www.upstatenyagents.com (Site contains a 3-D virtual tour of the home.)

To nominate a listing for House of the Week, send an email to home@syracuse.com.

10 Best Cruise Lines for Couples

Read article : 10 Best Cruise Lines for Couples

Romance and cruising would seem to go hand in hand, particularly if you've spotted any of the cruise lines' advertisements showing photos of couples snuggling at the bow at sunset, or sipping orange juice on their private veranda in bathrobes, or even -- and this one we have a hard time believing -- spending time alone on a deserted beach with their mega-ship anchored in the background.

Advertisements notwithstanding, cruising can be one of the most romantic vacation options, but choosing the right cruise line and, even more specifically, the right ship within the fleet, can be a challenge. You don't want that sunset marred by crowds on deck, the romance of a dinner for two killed by the whiny kids at the next table or a cozy evening ruined by cramped cabins with minimal amenities.

For our top picks, we looked at criteria that we would deem universally romantic: ships that offer cabins with private balconies, great bathrooms and extra-special amenities; options for dining a deux; cozy nooks and date-night venues; and almost-private open-deck spaces for relaxing by day and stargazing by night.

Here are our favorite ships for celebrating or rekindling romance with your sweetheart.

Princess Cruises | Paul Gauguin Cruises | Windstar Cruises | Norwegian Cruise Line | SeaDream Yacht Club | Celebrity Cruises | Regent Seven Seas Cruises | Crystal Yacht Cruises | Azamara Club Cruises | Viking Ocean Cruises

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1. Princess Cruises Best Ships: Crown Princess, Emerald Princess and Ruby Princess

Why: The youngest of Princess' Grand-class ships -- Crown Princess, Emerald Princess and Ruby Princess -- blend big-ship options and small-ship cozy. Romance has always been the Love Boat line's focus, but the tiny, charmless balconies and bigger size of its newer Royal-class ships mean that the elder sisters still win in this category.

Sweet Digs: Each boasts the line's traditionally high percentage of suites and mini-suites. Suites feature separate sitting areas, large balconies and walk-in closets, and come with perks like evening canapes, a complimentary mini-bar setup, laundry services, use of the ship's thermal suite and complimentary dinner in a specialty restaurant on embarkation night. But even the standard mini-suite is charming and comfortable. Plus, the line is rolling out its new Princess Luxury Bed fleetwide through 2018. With pillow-top mattresses, Jacquard-woven cotton bed linens and fluffy duvets, you might be inspired to snuggle in bed a bit longer.

Onboard Romance: What could be more romantic than a night at "Movies Under the Stars," reclining on padded loungers while snuggled under wool tartan blankets on the pool deck? Or for quiet tete-a-tetes with your sweetie, try Adagio, a lovely and private top-deck lounge. During the day, we love The Sanctuary, a (mostly) shaded retreat, complete with waiter service, spa menu and massage services (a couples' massage is available).

Dinner for Two: Open-seating (as well as traditional) dining is available. But the most romantic option is the Ultimate Balcony Dining dinner experience. For an extra fee, cruisers are treated to a lobster dinner with Champagne and course-by-course service. (Or have a romantic breakfast in your cabin with the line's Balcony Breakfast option.) Only caveat: Your cabin must have a balcony. We also love the ships' specialty restaurants. Request a banquette at Crown Grill, a steak and seafood restaurant with an open grill; indulge in a multicourse meal at the Italian Sabatini's; or share dishes with your sweetie at Share by Curtis Stone or The Salty Dog Gastropub. For a more casual option, try Vines, a wine and sushi bar. If chocolate is your aphrodisiac of choice, be sure to try the onboard cocktails and desserts created by master chocolatier Norman Love.

Downside: While the deluxe mini-suites are lovely and comfortable, the all-open-air balconies are anything but private.

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2. Paul Gauguin Cruises Best Ship: Paul Gauguin

Why: Designed, built and decorated to sail year-round in the romantic South Pacific, the cozy, 332-passenger Paul Gauguin offers an air of tropical festivity. Dining is restaurant-style, the staff is superb and the ship is highly inclusive (cocktails and other beverages are included in cruise fares). But it's the ship's remote and lush island destinations that really turn up the notch on the romantic nature of the trip.

Sweet Digs: You know this is a ship intended for couples when most cabins come with a queen-sized bed and only a limited number can be split apart into twins. Consistent with the decor around the ship, cabins are tropically inspired. When you embark, you might find that your cabin attendant has showered the bathroom sink with red rose petals. Definitely book ahead so you can nab a balcony cabin. It's not a trip to the South Pacific if you're not out on your balcony, savoring coffee, as Bora Bora pulls into view. And just when life onboard couldn't be any better, suites and category A and B veranda staterooms feature butler service.

Onboard Romance: Dance cheek to cheek with your honey to the tunes of a chanteuse in La Palette Lounge, or gaze at the sea or stars from the lounge's top-of-ship vantage point.

Dinner for Two: For such a small ship, the choice of restaurants is superb. L'Etoile, which offers French cuisine accented with Polynesian touches, serves as the main venue. Couples will appreciate plentiful tables for two and an attentive wait staff that will keep your glasses filled with house wines and nonalcoholic beverages. Two casual venues offer indoor and alfresco dining, with reservations-only dinners. And there's always room service for meals in bed or on your balcony.

Downside: French Polynesia is a long trip from just about anywhere, so be prepared to endure hours on a plane before you get to your luxurious destination.

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3. Windstar Cruises Best Ship: Wind Surf

Why: Wind Surf's both a sailboat and cruise ship, and it features a hybrid blend of cruise traditions (such as the crew show, organized shore excursions and multiple eateries) and utterly romantic vistas. Carrying just 310 passengers, the ship's onboard ambience is relaxed (no set seatings at dinner) and its itineraries focus on ports in the Caribbean, Mediterranean and Baltic that are often too small to appeal to massive ships.

Sweet Digs: What Windstar's cabins lack in size and variety, they make up in style. The staterooms offer decadently soft bedding, L'Occitane bath products and flat-screen TVs with DVD players. Most suites are simply two standard cabins opened up and joined together, but having two bathrooms is generally a boon for marital bliss. For a special occasion splurge, book one of two Bridge Suites, which feature separate living rooms and bedrooms, a whirlpool tub and a massaging shower.

Onboard Romance: A favorite spot -- and it's remarkably quiet -- is at the outside tables at Wind Surf's cigar bar; it's a great place to sit under the stars (or enjoy a quiet cocktail). If it's too chilly for sitting outdoors, head to the indoor section of the Compass Rose lounge to listen to some pre-dinner music over drinks with your sweetheart.

Dinner for Two: For casual daytime dining, the glass-walled Veranda offers seating outdoors as well as indoors. It's adjacent to the grill and features both buffet fare and choices from a menu. At night, enjoy a romantic candlelit dinner by the pool at Candles, sample French-influenced contemporary dishes at Stella Bistro or dine in the main restaurant, AmphorA, which features local and creative cuisine.

Downside: This ship is small and cabins are close to the water, so in rough seas, you'll definitely feel the motion of the ocean and perhaps watch the waves close in over your porthole. If you're prone to seasickness, bad weather might kill the romance of a Windstar cruise.

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4. Norwegian Cruise Line Best Ships: Norwegian Gem, Norwegian Jewel, Norwegian Pearl and Norwegian Jade

Why: Norwegian's "Freestyle Dining" philosophy (passengers can dine without the hassle of assigned times and tablemates at a variety of restaurants) is perfectly suited to table-for-two travelers. While the line's newest and biggest ships are full of Las Vegas flash and nonstop entertainment action, we prefer its Jewel-class for the right mix of romantic options and plentiful activities.

Sweet Digs: If you can afford them, the ships' Haven suites -- Courtyard Penthouses, Owner's Suites and Garden Villas -- are tops for a romantic getaway. These suites are located away from the fray in a private-access area of the ship -and offer a host of special perks, from access to an exclusive pool area (complete with padded loungers and hot tub) to VIP-only breakfast and lunch in either Cagney's Steakhouse or Moderno Churrascaria. The suites feature separate living and sleeping rooms, flat-screen televisions, butler service and swishy bathrooms, some with a whirlpool tub set into a picture window alcove.

Onboard Romance: Active couples can play a little one-on-one basketball on the sports deck or race each other up the rock climbing wall; while those looking to relax together can snag side-by-side loungers in the spa's relaxation room or take a dip in the thalassotherapy pool. At night, snuggle up to your honey, cocktail in hand, on one of the plush couches (on Norwegian Gem) or canopied beds (on Norwegian Pearl) that serve as loungers in the Bliss Ultra Lounge and Night Club; on Jewel and Jade, hit up Bar City to have your pick of multiple bars and drink styles.

Dinner for Two: Try dinner at Cagney's, the dedicated steakhouse, and Le Bistro, a French eatery.

Downside: These mega-ships aren't exactly intimate, and you might have to queue up for your dinner table for two if you don't eat at odd times or make reservations in advance.

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5. SeaDream Yacht Club Best Ships: SeaDream I and SeaDream II

Why: These nearly identical 112-passenger yachts win top romantic honors for sophisticated couples who want luxury (phenomenal dining and great service) in a casual ambiance. The ships are gorgeously restored; dining is all as-you-wish; cabins, though cozy, are outfitted with everything you could possibly need; and service is outstanding, personable, attentive ... and subtle. Fares are all-inclusive, too, which means tips and most drinks are included in your fare. Choose a warm-weather itinerary if you want to spend time playing with the ship's water toys offered from its onboard marina.

Sweet Digs: There are only four types of stateroom. The most romantic is, of course, the Owner's Suite (with a fabulous windowed bathroom); the Admiral Suite has similar amenities but is somewhat smaller. The Commodore Suites are basically two standard cabins put together -- we actually preferred our standard accommodations. The 195-square-foot standard cabins feature separate seating areas and bedrooms, with a small but exquisitely outfitted bathroom (huge shower-for-two with three shower heads). Add to that fine linens and great mattresses on the bed, high-tech flat-screen televisions, DVD and CD players, stocked mini-bars and plenty of storage space.

Onboard Romance: Our favorite place for sunset-timed port departures was on one of the Balinese beds on the top-most deck. Tucked around the smokestack, they are built just a bit above the deck railing, which gives you a sense of floating above the water. (You can also reserve one for a night sleeping under the stars.) We also loved the Top of the Yacht bar for after-dinner drinks to a soundtrack of live music.

Dinner for Two: There are two primary venues. The Main Dining Salon (indoors) feels like a restaurant at an elegant, small boutique hotel. But our favorite spot was the Topside Restaurant; it's an open-sided outdoor eatery (covered, though, so shaded) and there are a handful of wonderful and private nooks.

Downside: There are no cabins with balconies, but the open decks are so expansive and there are so many lovely nooks that you'll never miss them.

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6. Celebrity Cruises Best Ship: Celebrity Solstice, Equinox, Eclipse, Silhouette and Reflection

Why: Celebrity's newest ships are sophisticated and hip, and cater to couples on adult getaways, rather than families on holiday. Plus, there are plenty of onboard spaces tailor-made for parties of two -- from wine bars to multiple specialty dining venues, double pool loungers and top-deck lawns perfect for picnicking.

Sweet Digs: For a true splurge, suites range in size from 300 to 1,636 square feet, with amenities such as separate living room/dining room areas, baby grand pianos, whirlpool tubs and large balconies. For couples who enjoy the spa experience, Celebrity's AquaClass cabins and suites create an oasis of calm on the bustling ships with massaging showerheads, complimentary spa-oriented bath and body products and upgraded bed linens. Plus, couples can seek further R&R with complimentary use of the AquaSpa Relaxation Room and Persian Garden and exclusive specialty restaurant, Blu. There's also good news for pairs looking for a private retreat without breaking the bank -- 85 percent of all cabins feature private balconies.

Onboard Romance: It's easy to rekindle the romance with a picnic for two in the Lawn Club, a real grass lawn on the ships' top decks. Or hide away in a corner of the Deck 4 wine bar or martini bar, and get a little tipsy with your loved one; the aft Sunset Bar is great for views. The pool deck and adults-only Solarium also have cozy double sunbeds and hammocks for snuggling in the sun.

Dinner for Two: With so many top-notch specialty restaurants onboard, any table for two will do for a romantic night out. Our favorite for couples (and anyone else, for that matter) is Murano, the upscale Continental restaurant offering both tasting and a la carte menus. Treat yourself and your sweetie to luxe dishes like caviar, escargots, sweetbreads or foie gras. For dinner with a view, dine early at the back-of-the-ship Tuscan Grille, an Italian steakhouse with a wine country feel.

Downside: Onboard dates don't come cheap, whether you're shelling out for glasses of wine or fabulous cocktail creations, splurging on a specialty restaurant meal (Murano charges $45 per person) or booking upper-class cabins.

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7. Regent Seven Seas Cruises Best Ship: Seven Seas Explorer

Why: You can't go wrong with the "Most Luxurious Ship Ever Built," an all-suite, all-balcony vessel that features personal service, gourmet cuisine and the most-inclusive cruise fares of the major luxury lines. You don't have to worry about lover's quarrels over the price of shore excursions, which pre-cruise hotel to book or how many drinks to order -- it's all covered by your cruise fare.

Sweet Digs: Take your pick! The smallest cabin on Explorer is a 219-square-foot suite with an 88-square-foot balcony and marble bathroom. The largest is a whopping 2,917 square feet and features a luxurious bed with topped with a $90,000 horse-hair mattress and $60,000 bed linens; an in-cabin spa complete with private sauna, heated ceramic lounge chairs and unlimited spa treatments; and a 958-square-foot balcony -- with a hot tub, dining table and assortment of loungers -- that wraps around the entire front of the ship. If you want to spoil yourself but can't quite afford the ship's top suite, know that all Penthouse Suites and higher categories come with butler service, upgraded toiletries and free use of iPads and iPods onboard.

Onboard Romance: Head to the gorgeous spa and gym area to get a little sweaty together (personal training for two?) and then relax in the back-of-ship infinity pool or heated ceramic loungers. Or visit the Observation Lounge for 180-degree views by day and cocktails and music by night. If you like learning together, sign up for a cooking class at the Culinary Arts Kitchen.

Dinner for Two: It's easy to get a table for two on these ships, even in Compass Rose, the main dining room. And the food is superb, with no drop in quality from the specialty venues to the main dining room. For date night, try the pan-Asian Pacific Rim, modern French Chartreuse or the Prime 7 steakhouse -- you'll need to make reservations for these popular venues but there's no fee.

Downside: Because its prices include nearly everything, Regent Seven Seas Cruises has some of the highest cruise fares in the industry.

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8. Crystal Yacht Cruises Best Ship: Crystal Esprit

Why: If you want to sample the high life, where days are spent lounging on a day bed in the sun with a drink in hand, swimming and snorkeling or touring the more yacht-y ports, Crystal Esprit beckons. The 62-passenger yacht is also incredibly high-tech, carrying Jet Skis and a three-person submersible; cabins loaded up with state-of-the-art technology; and even an outdoor flat-screen TV for movies under the stars.

Sweet Digs: Most cabins are identical and a generous 280 square feet so you won't feel like you're tripping over your honey on a small ship. Rooms come outfitted with high-tech touches, such as a Soundbar speaker system, iPads for accessing ship services and flat-screen TVs loaded with movies. Enjoy the services of a butler, a stocked mini-bar and Krups coffee maker, king-sized bed and even a rain shower in a spacious bathroom. For truly special vacations, snag the one Owner's Suite onboard, which has separate living and sleeping areas and an egg-shaped soaking tub in the bathroom.

Onboard Romance: Most passengers are splashing in the water or enjoying complimentary tours during the day. If you're onboard, you're likely to be found cuddling on a Balinese bed or dipping your toes in the plunge pool. At night, catch a flick on the outdoor screen, or get social in The Cove, the ship's living room with live music and bar service.

Dinner for Two: The elegant Yacht Club Restaurant is the only dinner venue onboard. You won't have trouble snagging a table for two and will be spoiled for choice with a regular menu and special four-course menu offered each evening. For total privacy, order room service off the Yacht Club's menu and take date night back to your cabin.

Downside: Crystal Esprit offers port-intensive itineraries, so if you're looking for sea days, you won't find them. The yacht uses Zodiacs to tender, with some wet landings, and rocks and rolls when not in sheltered waters. If you have mobility issues or are prone to seasickness, the romance might be lost rather than found on this small ship.

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9. Azamara Club Cruises Best Ship: Azamara Journey and Azamara Quest

Why: Azamara offers two twin intimate ships and a destination focus, so you can bond with your loved one over new experiences and incredible adventures ashore. The line will constantly hand you opportunities for memorable date nights with its Nights and Cool Places after-dinner excursions and complimentary, once-a-cruise AzAmazing Evening shoreside event. The onboard atmosphere is geared to adults, so your vacation-for-two won't be disrupted by unruly rug rats.

Sweet Digs: Standard cabins are pretty cozy, but 46 suites offer more luxury and elbow room. The most sought-after are Ocean and World Owner's Suites, which command the fore and aft of the cabin decks. Think king-sized beds, marble baths and enormous private balconies. If the two of you love the spa life, book a Spa Suite, located near the ship's spa facilities; the suite comes with in-room spa music, a glass-enclosed soaking tub and separate rain shower, a free evening excursion and a spa credit. Couples massage, anyone?

Onboard Romance: Take your partner for a whirl with ballroom dancing in the Cabaret Lounge, or look for that green flash at the Sunset Bar, cocktail in hand. For the ultimate in romance, though, book the Nights in Private Places package. For one night, you'll get the aft spa deck all to yourself. A private butler will serve a candlelit dinner, you can float in the thalassotherapy pool while gazing at the stars, and then spend the night snuggled up on the canopied daybed, done up in fine linens. Just be sure to slip your robe back on when the butler comes to serve breakfast in the morning.

Dinner for Two: Tables for two are not hard to come by in Azamara's main, open-seating restaurant, but for a more intimate repast, book into one of the specialty restaurants, the Prime C steakhouse or the Italian Aqualina. Special event meals not to miss include a jazz brunch, Officers' BBQ with suckling pig and barbecue ribs and the White Night dinner served on deck.

Downside: If you like onboard nightlife, Azamara's options are limited. The casino is small and theater offerings are hit and miss. You won't find a packed disco or dancing well into the wee hours.

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10. Viking Ocean Cruises Best Ship: Viking Star, Viking Sea, Viking Sky and Viking Sun

Why: With beautiful sun decks and a huge Nordic-inspired spa, Viking Ocean's four identical ships are ideal for couples who love to relax...after a hard day of touring in port. The line's destination focus includes jam-packed itineraries, late nights and overnights in port and included shore excursions. Well-appointed cabins, included Wi-Fi and wine with meals, multiple dining venues and a no-kids-under-16 policy seal the deal.

Sweet Digs: You can't go wrong when every cabin has a balcony, thoughtful touches like plentiful outlets and quiet-closing drawers, and bathrooms with heated floors. Upgrade to one of 14 Explorer Suites for sprawling verandas, separate living rooms and bedrooms and soaking tubs in the bathrooms. If nothing but the best will suit your sweetheart, book the one Owner's Suite with its private sauna, dining area and wet bar, and comfortable living room with stereo system.

Onboard Romance: During the day, relax in the light and airy, glass-enclosed Wintergarden Conservatory and take your honey to tea for finger sandwiches and scones in the late afternoon. Or lounge by the all-weather main pool, with retractable roof, or aft infinity pool. A cool drink is never far away. At night, camp out in Torshavn, to dance, enjoy a cabaret show or sip Armagnac in a dark corner.

Dinner for Two: The mouth-watering food at Manfredi's will start your date night off right. The Italian venue is complimentary and offers an expansive Italian menu. Don't miss the daily specials and definitely save room for dessert (as difficult as that might be). If your style is more casual, check out the sushi bar in the World Cafe buffet or the cured meats and bacon-and-pea soup served faux-fireside at Mamsen's.

Downside: All that running around in port can you leave you exhausted, with little energy for romance at day's end. Be sure to factor in some relaxation time with your special someone, but expect limited entertainment onboard (day and night) and no casino.

California Dreamin' Part II: From San Jose to Big Sur, Spending Only $51 a Day

Read article : California Dreamin' Part II: From San Jose to Big Sur, Spending Only $51 a Day

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Getting away from the big city isn't always easy, but the proximity of the magnificent beauty of Big Sur to the major metropolises of California makes it an ideal and popular weekend drive.

Getting There

There's no point in poking around San Jose, so speed on down to the Monterey-Carmel area on US 101 to Prunedale, then westward on 156 to Seaside, where you join the Pacific Coast Highway, Number 1. If you can tear yourself away from the delights of those two cities, start on down the highway, taking your time and stopping at as many turnouts or vistas as you can.

If you have time, return on the same marvelous routing, catching different views and vistas, the better to see the mist creeping in, or a sunset, or a day when the fog bank sits along the horizon like a very thick futon, creating an amazing wall a few miles out to sea. Should you be in a hurry, however, go on down Route 1 to Cambria, and then turn eastward on State 465 to Templeton, where you pick up speedy US 101 for your return trip north.

Highlights

The best weather here is in the spring and fall, the former being the time when wildflowers abound (especially lupines and poppies, as well as the tall purple cones called "the Pride of Madeira"). May is still peaceful, as the big summer season and the crowds begin in June, with warm weather and a chance even to dip into the rivers here. Indian summer and it's requisite marvelous fall colors, with poison oak showing deep red, the maples, sycamore, and cottonwoods their golden yellows and oranges, dutifully comes along late in September and throughout all of October. In mid-November, the season for fishing steelhead rainbow trout opens. Best of all, from the end of December through the entire month of March, you can watch migrating gray whales offshore as they traverse the route from sunny Baja California northward.

All the way down along scenic PCH1, the 90-mile stretch of Big Sur affords great views of the awesomely beautiful and rugged coastline between Carmel to the north and San Simeon to the south. The highway was completed in 1937 after 18 years of hard work, partly with the aid of convict labor. (They didn't even have electricity in these parts until the 1950s!) And although Highway One is well maintained, it has plenty of sharp curves and steep hills, so take it easy. Besides, if you drive too quickly, you won't have a chance to see the most beautiful coastline in the world, in the opinion of many experienced travelers.

If it's beach time you want, bring a blanket and a jacket, as it can be chilly, even in summer. You can get down to the Andrew Molera State Park beach, 23 miles south of Carmel, easily on a mile-long path paralleling the Big Sur River.

A cultural highlight of the drive is the Henry Miller Library, just one-fourth of a mile south of the Nepenthe restaurant on the mountainside of the road. Henry, who wrote his best-known work, Tropic of Cancer, in 1934, settled down in Big Sur (not at this building) in 1944, and wrote many other books here. This is not a library of books he collected, but of books by and about him, as well as other highly literary and experimental works for sale by other authors. It's open Thursdays through Sundays, 11 to 6 or by appointment. Phone the library at 831/667-2574 or visit the Web site, www.henrymiller.org.

Although Big Sur is as close to nature as you can get in America and still be on a highway, costs are typically high, thanks to the distance and scarcity of population. But with some digging, I've come up with lodging and three meals costing only $50.70 per person per day, sharing a double room.

Lodging

There are only 200 hotel rooms in all the Big Sur area, so pickings are slim. Except during winter, you might consider camping out when you get here. After all, that's what the whole region is about, getting back to nature in a meaningful manner. Should you decide you want to live in a tent or rustic cabin, check out the Big Sur Campground & Cabins, 26 miles south of Carmel on Route 1, phone 831/667-2322. In addition to empty sites, there are a few cabins, the tent variety costing only $12, the all-wood version going for $89 and up. The all-wood cabins have their own country-style furniture, woodburning ovens and complete kitchens, not to mention private patios.

The best-priced commercial lodging in the area is at the modest Ripplewood Resort, where there are cabins costing as little as $65 (double bed), $70 (queen), $75 (queen and double), up to $105 (queen and double, kitchen, deck, and fireplace). The cheaper cabins overlook the redwoods and the hills, while the more expensive are along the Big Sur River itself. All units have private bathroom with shower or tub. Just 27 miles south of Carmel, the resort is also the site of a wonderful cafe (breakfast and lunch only), a gas station (you can't imagine how helpful that is) and a grocery store (ditto). For reservations, phone 831/667-2242. Their Web site is www.ripplewoodresort.com.

The best little hotel in the region, in my opinion, is the Big Sur River Inn on Highway 1 at Pheneger Creek, Big Sur 93920. There are 20 rustic and cozy rooms with private baths ranging in price from $80 in winter, $90 in spring and fall to $100 in July and August. That's for a room with one queen bed. On weekends throughout the year, you pay the summer rate of $100. What's fun here is to sit in Adirondack chairs in the shallow river, dangling your feet in the water, and drinking a beer. Above the iris and calla lilies along the banks, on the lawn between river and hotel, people relax over their food, and a jazz band plays on weekend afternoons. A throwback to the 1930s, the River Inn was once known at the Apple Pie Inn, having started as a restaurant back in 1934. It has been run by the same family (Pfeiffer and Ewoldsen) ever since. Contact the Inn at 831/557-1700 or 800/548-3610, fax 831/667-2743, Web site www.bigsurriverinn.com.

You can have your adobe hacienda and not pay big bucks for it if you stay at Glen Oaks, in the Big Sur River valley. All rooms are in single story structures, and each has a private bath and walk-in shower. You also have a patio, surrounded by flowers in season and a view of the valley. There's a good restaurant on the premises, too (see listings on the next page). A queen bedroom here costs $89, queen and twin $94, two queens $99. You can have a whole cottage to yourself for $125, with a kitchen $140, beyond our price range but doable if you have four persons sharing the costs. Contact the Glen Oaks at 831/667-2105, Highway 1, Big Sur 93920.

Moderately priced during the winter (at $89), the rooms at the Big Sur Lodge rise precipitously during the rest of the year, so I can recommend it only in the November-March period, when the weather can be wonderful. There are 61 huge cottage style units, each with deck or balcony. Some units can sleep up to six persons. Nestled among the marvelous towering redwoods and oaks inside the Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park, these units are a perfect place to get away from the apparent world and enjoy the real realm of nature. There are no phones, TVs, radios, or alarm clocks. There is a restaurant on the grounds, as well as a general store, and a seasonal heated pool. They're on Highway 1 at Big Sur, 93920, phone 831/667-3100 or 800/424-4787, Web site www.bigsurlodge.com. Rates here include the admission fee not only to this park but also to four others in the immediate area. That, in turn, allows you free use of the parks, including hiking and firing up the barbecue if you feel like it.

Alternatively, if you are really into nature, and want to stay at a Catholic monastery where you get absolute peace and quiet, you might like the New Camaldoli Hermitage, about 25 miles south of Big Sur Village at Lucia, where rooms go for a suggested donation of $45. You usually need to book six months in advance here! You need not participate in the liturgical worship, but you may if you wish. All rooms are single occupancy, each with half bath and a personal garden overlooking the ocean. There is also a room with several showers and a common kitchen where you pick up your mostly vegetarian meals, to eat by yourself in the garden or room. If you want a retreat house trailer, these, too, are available, with a full bathroom (shower, not tub!), small refrigerator, small countertop gas burner, and a sun deck. Suggested donation is $55. To keep the place quiet for the Benedictine monks, you cannot use radios, typewriters, or musical instruments, nor can you bring a pet. Phone the monks at 831/667-2456. They ask that you phone them, not e-mail them (unless you live overseas). Their Web site, however, is www.contemplation.com.

Restaurants

This is the perfect place to have a picnic, down on the beach or up above, just looking at the coastline. You can stock up on everything you could possibly need at Big Sur Center Deli, located at the Post Office Center, phone 831/667-2225. Open daily from 8 AM to 8:30 PM, the deli has takeout selections of prepared food items for all three meals (including fresh pizza on Monday and Friday evenings), as well as a good selection of groceries, wine, beer, and soft drinks.

Big Sur River Inn, part of the hotel of the same name (see previous page), is a marvelously un-chic place, with quiet corners, tables out on the patio overlooking the river, or near the bar and its big sports-saturated TV screen. Breakfast starts at $5.75 for two eggs, hash browns, and toast; lunch menu items hover around $9.95 (the cheapest sandwich is $8.25), and dinner courses cost from $7.95 (omelets) through $8.95 (fish & chips) up to $17.95 for ribs. Open daily. Phone 831/667-2700.

At the Ripplewood Resort (see previous page), you can have two eggs with a potato casserole and a homemade muffin for just $5.75, or pay another dollar and have the same thing with sausage, bacon, or ham. At lunchtime, a grilled cheddar sandwich will set you back $4.50, a delicious grilled jack cheese and green chili one $5.75. All sandwiches (your choice of bread) come with tomatoes, sliced red onions, sliced pickles, lettuce, and mayonnaise, along side your choice of a green salad, marinated bean salad, or shoestring-cut french fries. They don't serve dinner. Phone 831/667-2242.

The Glen Oaks Restaurant is also part of the hotel of the same name (see previous page), with a copper fireplace and works of local artists, serving dinner only, open year round, but closed on Tuesdays. Dinner items start from $12.95 and range upward from there. Several entries on the otherwise standard menu are Asian inspired, and the pastas and bread are homemade. Wines from the California Central Coast are featured. Phone 831/667-2264 for reservations.

Deetjen's restaurant is in the hotel of the same name, with a cozy, country-inn feeling about the place. Two meals are served daily, with basic breakfasts at about $7.95, comfort-food dinner main courses from $12.95. Chicken with garlic is a local favorite. Phone the restaurant at 831/667-2377. The location is about 30 miles south of Carmel on Highway 1, Big Sur 93920.

Cafe Kevah is located just a level down from famed Nepenthe (see below) and owned by the same family. Its prices are slightly less than those up the stairs, a fajita dish costing 7.95, for instance. The view is almost as good that on the level above, but the ambiance is more utilitarian, the food (with several Mexican items on the menu) is as good, if not better. Since you'll be outside, even on a sunny day in fall, winter, or spring, be sure to bring a coat. In summer, never mind. The address is the same as Nepenthe, but the phone is 831/557-2344.

Nepenthe is not just a restaurant, but also the emotional center of Big Sur, almost since its beginnings back in 1949. It's at the top end of our price range for budgeters, but is well worth the visit. The ambiance is better than the high-priced and celebrated Ambrosiaburgers ($11.95), in fact. After you climb the long flights of stairs, you'll find the views magnificent. You may, if you are lucky, find seats at counters on the edge of the cliff, so that you look right out on the valley and ocean 808 feet below. This is the perfect place to have lunch, if only for the view. The restaurant, formerly owned by Orson Welles and Rita Hayworth, is a celeb favorite. Recent visitors include Brad Pitt and Jennifer Aniston, as well as Bill Gates Jr., and Oakland mayor and former California governor Jerry Brown. Movie fans will want to know that Liz Taylor and Richard Burton frequented this restaurant a lot when they filmed Sandpiper in the neighborhood way back in 1962. Location: On California 1, 28 miles south of Carmel, phone 831/667-2345.

Sunday Brunch

If you make it as far as the Hearst Castle, at the southern end of Big Sur, you might enjoy the Sunday brunch at the San Simeon restaurant in town, costing $12.95 for adults, $5.95 for children under 12. You can eat as much as you want at the salad bar, waffle bar, or omelet bar, partaking of country biscuits and gravy, roast beef, seafood, beef Stroganoff, and the like with a glass of champagne, too. Phone 805/927-4604.

The Atlantic Monthly/Volume 18/Number 106/Passages from Hawthorne's Note-Books

Read article : The Atlantic Monthly/Volume 18/Number 106/Passages from Hawthorne's Note-Books

PASSAGES FROM HAWTHORNE'S NOTE-BOOKS. VIII. Concord, Saturday, August 13, 1842.—My life, at this time, is more like that of a boy, externally, than it has been since I was really a boy. It is usually supposed that the cares of life come with matrimony; but I seem to have cast off all care, and live on with as much easy trust in Providence as Adam could possibly have felt before he had learned that there was a world beyond Paradise. My chief anxiety consists in watching the prosperity of my vegetables, in observing how they are affected by the rain or sunshine, in lamenting the blight of one squash and rejoicing at the luxurious growth of another. It is as if the original relation between man and Nature were restored in my case, and that I were to look exclusively to her for the support of my Eve and myself,—to trust to her for food and clothing, and all things needful, with the full assurance that she would not fail me. The fight with the world,—the struggle of a man among men,—the agony of the universal effort to wrench the means of living from a host of greedy competitors,—all this seems like a dream to me. My business is merely to live and to enjoy; and whatever is essential to life and enjoyment will come as naturally as the dew from heaven. This is, practically at least, my faith. And so I awake in the morning with a boyish thoughtlessness as to how the outgoings of the day are to be provided for, and its incomings rendered certain. After breakfast, I go forth into my garden, and gather whatever the bountiful Mother has made fit for our present sustenance; and of late days she generally gives me two squashes and a cucumber, and promises me green corn and shell-beans very soon. Then I pass down through our orchard to the river-side, and ramble along its margin in search of flowers. Usually I discern a fragrant white lily, here and there along the shore, growing, with sweet prudishness, beyond the grasp of mortal arm. But it does not escape me so. I know what is its fitting destiny better than the silly flower knows for itself; so I wade in, heedless of wet trousers, and seize the shy lily by its slender stem. Thus I make prize of five or six, which are as many as usually blossom within my reach in a single morning;—some of them partially worm-eaten or blighted, like virgins with an eating sorrow at the heart; others as fair and perfect as Nature's own idea was, when she first imagined this lovely flower. A perfect pond-lily is the most satisfactory of flowers. Besides these, I gather whatever else of beautiful chances to be growing in the moist soil by the river-side,—an amphibious tribe, yet with more richness and grace than the wild-flowers of the deep and dry woodlands and hedge-rows,—sometimes the white arrow-head, always the blue spires and broad green leaves of the pickerel-flower, which contrast and harmonize so well with the white lilies. For the last two or three days, I have found scattered stalks of the cardinal-flower, the gorgeous scarlet of which it is a joy even to remember. The world is made brighter and sunnier by flowers of such a hue. Even perfume, which otherwise is the soul and spirit of a flower, may be spared when it arrays itself in this scarlet glory. It is a flower of thought and feeling, too; it seems to have its roots deep down in the hearts of those who gaze at it. Other bright flowers sometimes impress me as wanting sentiment; but it is not so with this. Well, having made up my bunch of flowers, I return home with them. . . . . Then I ascend to my study, and generally read, or perchance scribble in this journal, and otherwise suffer Time to loiter onward at his own pleasure, till the dinner-hour. In pleasant days, the chief event of the afternoon, and the happiest one of the day, is our walk. . . . So comes the night; and I look back upon a day spent in what the world would call idleness, and for which I myself can suggest no more appropriate epithet, but which, nevertheless, I cannot feel to have been spent amiss. True, it might be a sin and shame, in such a world as ours, to spend a lifetime in this manner; but for a few summer weeks it is good to live as if this world were heaven. And so it is, and so it shall be, although, in a little while, a flitting shadow of earthly care and toil will mingle itself with our realities. Monday, August 15th.—George Hillard and his wife arrived from Boston in the dusk of Saturday evening, to spend Sunday with us. It was a pleasant sensation, when the coach rumbled up our avenue, and wheeled round at the door; for I felt that I was regarded as a man with a household,—a man having a tangible existence and locality in the world,—when friends came to avail themselves of our hospitality. It was a sort of acknowledgment and reception of us into the corps of married people,—a sanction by no means essential to our peace and well-being, but yet agreeable enough to receive. So we welcomed them cordially at the door, and ushered them into our parlor, and soon into the supper-room. . . . . The night flitted over us all, and passed away, and up rose a gray and sullen morning, . . . . and we had a splendid breakfast of flapjacks, or slapjacks, and whortleberries, which I gathered on a neighboring hill, and perch, bream, and pout, which I hooked out of the river the evening before. About nine o'clock, Hillard and I set out for a walk to Walden Pond, calling by the way at Mr. Emerson's, to obtain his guidance or directions, and he accompanied us in his own illustrious person. We turned aside a little from our way, to visit Mr. ———, a yeoman, of whose homely and self-acquired wisdom Mr. Emerson has a very high opinion. We found him walking in his fields, a short and stalwart and sturdy personage of middle age, with a face of shrewd and kind expression, and manners of natural courtesy. He had a very free flow of talk, and not much diffidence about his own opinions; for, with a little induction from Mr. Emerson, he began to discourse about the state of the nation, agriculture, and business in general, uttering thoughts that had come to him at the plough, and which had a sort of flavor of the fresh earth about them. I was not impressed with any remarkable originality in his views; but they were sensible and characteristic, and had grown in the soil where we found them; . . . . and he is certainly a man of intellectual and moral substance, a sturdy fact, a reality, something to be felt and touched, whose ideas seem to be dug out of his mind as he digs potatoes, beets, carrots, and turnips out of the ground. After leaving Mr. ———, we proceeded through wood paths to Walden Pond, picking blackberries of enormous size along the way. The pond itself was beautiful and refreshing to my soul, after such long and exclusive familiarity with our tawny and sluggish river. It lies embosomed among wooded hills,—it is not very extensive, but large enough for waves to dance upon its surface, and to look like a piece of blue firmament, earth-encircled. The shore has a narrow, pebbly strand, which it was worth a day's journey to look at, for the sake of the contrast between it and the weedy, oozy margin of the river. Farther within its depths, you perceive a bottom of pure white sand, sparkling through the transparent water, which, methought, was the very purest liquid in the world. After Mr. Emerson left us, Hillard and I bathed in the pond, and it does really seem as if my spirit, as well as corporeal person, were refreshed by that bath. A good deal of mud and river slime had accumulated on my soul; but these bright waters washed it all away. We returned home in due season for dinner. . . . . To my misfortune, however, a box of Mediterranean wine proved to have undergone the acetous fermentation; so that the splendor of the festival suffered some diminution. Nevertheless, we ate our dinner with a good appetite, and afterwards went universally to take our several siestas. Meantime there came a shower, which so besprinkled the grass and shrubbery as to make it rather wet for our after-tea ramble. The chief result of the walk was the bringing home of an immense burden of the trailing clematis-vine, now just in blossom, and with which all our flower-stands and vases are this morning decorated. On our return we found Mr. and Mrs. S———, and E. H———, who shortly took their leave, and we sat up late, telling ghost-stories. This morning, at seven, our friends left us. We were both pleased with the visit, and so I think were our guests. Monday, August 22nd.—I took a walk through the woods yesterday afternoon, to Mr. Emerson's, with a book which Margaret Fuller had left, after a call on Saturday eve. I missed the nearest way, and wandered into a very secluded portion of the forest; for forest it might justly be called, so dense and sombre was the shade of oaks and pines. Once I wandered into a tract so overgrown with bushes and underbrush that I could scarcely force a passage through. Nothing is more annoying than a walk of this kind, where one is tormented by an innumerable host of petty impediments. It incenses and depresses me at the same time. Always when I flounder into the midst of bushes, which cross and intertwine themselves about my legs, and brush my face, and seize hold of my clothes, with their multitudinous grip,—always, in such a difficulty, I feel as if it were almost as well to lie down and die in rage and despair as to go one step farther. It is laughable, after I have got out of the moil, to think how miserably it affected me for the moment; but I had better learn patience betimes, for there are many such bushy tracts in this vicinity, on the margins of meadows, and my walks will often lead me into them. Escaping from the bushes, I soon came to an open space among the woods,—a very lovely spot, with the tall old trees standing around as quietly as if no one had intruded there throughout the whole summer. A company of crows were holding their Sabbath on their summits. Apparently they felt themselves injured or insulted by my presence; for, with one consent, they began to Caw! caw! caw! and, launching themselves sullenly on the air, took flight to some securer solitude. Mine, probably, was the first human shape that they had seen all day long,—at least, if they had been stationary in that spot; but perhaps they had winged their way over miles and miles of country, had breakfasted on the summit of Greylock, and dined at the base of Wachusett, and were merely come to sup and sleep among the quiet woods of Concord. But it was my impression at the time, that they had sat still and silent on the tops of the trees all through the Sabbath day, and I felt like one who should unawares disturb an assembly of worshippers. A crow, however, has no real pretensions to religion, in spite of his gravity of mien and black attire. Crows are certainly thieves, and probably infidels. Nevertheless, their voices yesterday were in admirable accordance with the influences of the quiet, sunny, warm, yet autumnal afternoon. They were so far above my head that their loud clamor added to the quiet of the scene, instead of disturbing it. There was no other sound, except the song of the cricket, which is but an audible stillness; for, though it be very loud and heard afar, yet the mind does not take note of it as a sound, so entirely does it mingle and lose its individuality among the other characteristics of coming autumn. Alas for the summer! The grass is still verdant on the hills and in the valleys; the foliage of the trees is as dense as ever, and as green; the flowers are abundant along the margin of the river, and in the hedge-rows, and deep among the woods; the days, too, are as fervid as they were a month ago; and yet in every breath of wind and in every beam of sunshine there is an autumnal influence. I know not how to describe it. Methinks there is a sort of coolness amid all the heat, and a mildness in the brightest of the sunshine. A breeze cannot stir, without thrilling me with the breath of autumn, and I behold its pensive glory in the far, golden gleams among the long shadows of the trees. The flowers, even the brightest of them,—the golden-rod and the gorgeous cardinals,—the most glorious flowers of the year,—have this gentle sadness amid their pomp. Pensive autumn is expressed in the glow of every one of them. I have felt this influence earlier in some years than in others. Sometimes autumn may be perceived even in the early days of July. There is no other feeling like that caused by this faint, doubtful, yet real perception, or rather prophecy, of the year's decay, so deliciously sweet and sad at the same time. After leaving the book at Mr. Emerson's I returned through the woods, and, entering Sleepy Hollow, I perceived a lady reclining near the path which bends along its verge. It was Margaret herself. She had been there the whole afternoon, meditating or reading; for she had a book in her hand, with some strange title, which I did not understand, and have forgotten. She said that nobody had broken her solitude, and was just giving utterance to a theory that no inhabitant of Concord ever visited Sleepy Hollow, when we saw a group of people entering the sacred precincts. Most of them followed a path which led them away from us; but an old man passed near us, and smiled to see Margaret reclining on the ground, and me sitting by her side. He made some remark about the beauty of the afternoon, and withdrew himself into the shadow of the wood. Then we talked about autumn, and about the pleasures of being lost in the woods, and about the crows, whose voices Margaret had heard; and about the experiences of early childhood, whose influence remains upon the character after the recollection of them has passed away; and about the sight of mountains from a distance, and the view from their summits; and about other matters of high and low philosophy. In the midst of our talk, we heard footsteps above us, on the high bank; and while the person was still hidden among the trees, he called to Margaret, of whom he had gotten a glimpse. Then he emerged from the green shade, and, behold! it was Mr. Emerson. He appeared to have had a pleasant time; for he said that there were Muses in the woods to-day, and whispers to be heard in the breezes. It being now nearly six o'clock, we separated,—Margaret and Mr. Emerson towards his home, and I towards mine. . . . . Last evening there was the most beautiful moonlight that ever hallowed this earthly world; and when I went to bathe in the river, which was as calm as death, it seemed like plunging down into the sky. But I had rather be on earth than even in the seventh heaven, just now. Wednesday, August 24th.—I left home at five o'clock this morning to catch some fish for breakfast. I shook our summer apple-tree, and ate the golden apple which fell from it. Methinks these early apples, which come as a golden promise before the treasures of autumnal fruit, are almost more delicious than anything that comes afterwards. We have but one such tree in our orchard; but it supplies us with a daily abundance, and probably will do so for at least a week to come. Meantime other trees begin to cast their ripening windfalls upon the grass; and when I taste them, and perceive their mellowed flavor and blackening seeds, I feel somewhat overwhelmed with the impending bounties of Providence. I suppose Adam, in Paradise, did not like to see his fruits decaying on the ground, after he had watched them through the sunny days of the world's first summer. However, insects, at the worst, will hold a festival upon them, so that they will not be thrown away, in the great scheme of Nature. Moreover, I have one advantage over the primeval Adam, inasmuch as there is a chance of disposing of my superfluous fruits among people who inhabit no Paradise of their own. Passing a little way down along the river-side, I threw in my line, and soon drew out one of the smallest possible of fishes. It seemed to be a pretty good morning for the angler,—an autumnal coolness in the air, a clear sky, but with a fog across the lowlands and on the surface of the river, which a gentle breeze sometimes condensed into wreaths. At first I could barely discern the opposite shore of the river; but, as the sun arose, the vapors gradually dispersed, till only a warm, smoky tint was left along the water's surface. The farm-houses across the river made their appearance out of the dusky cloud; the voices of boys were heard, shouting to the cattle as they drove them to the pastures; a man whetted his scythe, and set to work in a neighboring meadow. Meantime, I continued to stand on the oozy margin of the stream, beguiling the little fish; and though the scaly inhabitants of our river partake somewhat of the character of their native element, and are but sluggish biters, still I contrived to pull out not far from two dozen. They were all bream, a broad, flat, almost circular fish, shaped a good deal like a flounder, but swimming on their edges, instead of on their sides. As far as mere pleasure is concerned, it is hardly worth while to fish in our river, it is so much like angling in a mud-puddle; and one does not attach the idea of freshness and purity to the fishes, as we do to those which inhabit swift, transparent streams, or haunt the shores of the great briny deep. Standing on the weedy margin, and throwing the line over the elder-bushes that dip into the water, it seems as if we could catch nothing but frogs and mud-turtles, or reptiles akin to them. And even when a fish of reputable aspect is drawn out, one feels a shyness about touching him. As to our river, its character was admirably expressed last night by some one who said "it was too lazy to keep itself clean." I might write pages and pages, and only obscure the impression which this brief sentence conveys. Nevertheless, we made bold to eat some of my fish for breakfast, and found them very savory; and the rest shall meet with due entertainment at dinner, together with some shell-beans, green corn, and cucumbers from our garden; so this day's food comes directly and entirely from beneficent Nature, without the intervention of any third person between her and us. Saturday, August 27th.—A peach-tree, which grows beside our house and brushes against the window, is so burdened with fruit that I have had to prop it up. I never saw more splendid peaches in appearance,—great, round, crimson-cheeked beauties, clustering all over the tree. A pear-tree, likewise, is maturing a generous burden of small, sweet fruit, which will require to be eaten at about the same time as the peaches. There is something pleasantly annoying in this superfluous abundance; it is like standing under a tree of ripe apples, and giving it a shake, with the intention of bringing down a single one, when, behold, a dozen come thumping about our ears. But the idea of the infinite generosity and exhaustless bounty of our Mother Nature is well worth attaining; and I never had it so vividly as now, when I find myself, with the few mouths which I am to feed, the sole inheritor of the old clergyman's wealth of fruits. His children, his friends in the village, and the clerical guests who came to preach in his pulpit, were all wont to eat and be filled from these trees. Now, all these hearty old people have passed away, and in their stead is a solitary pair, whose appetites are more than satisfied with the windfalls which the trees throw down at their feet. Howbeit, we shall have now and then a guest to keep our peaches and pears from decaying. G——— B———, my old fellow-laborer at the community at Brook Farm, called on me last evening, and dined here to-day. He has been cultivating vegetables at Plymouth this summer, and selling them in the market. What a singular mode of life for a man of education and refinement,—to spend his days in hard and earnest bodily toil, and then to convey the products of his labor, in a wheelbarrow, to the public market, and there retail them out,—a peck of peas or beans, a bunch of turnips, a squash, a dozen ears of green corn! Few men, without some eccentricity of character, would have the moral strength to do this; and it is very striking to find such strength combined with the utmost gentleness, and an uncommon regularity of nature. Occasionally he returns for a day or two to resume his place among scholars and idle people, as, for instance, the present week, when he has thrown aside his spade and hoe to attend the Commencement at Cambridge. He is a rare man,—a perfect original, yet without any one salient point; a character to be felt and understood, but almost impossible to describe: for, should you seize upon any characteristic, it would inevitably be altered and distorted in the process of writing it down. Our few remaining days of summer have been latterly grievously darkened with clouds. To-day there has been an hour or two of hot sunshine; but the sun rose amid cloud and mist, and before he could dry up the moisture of last night's shower upon the trees and grass, the clouds have gathered between him and us again. This afternoon the thunder rumbles in the distance, and I believe a few drops of rain have fallen; but the weight of the shower has burst elsewhere, leaving us nothing but its sullen gloom. There is a muggy warmth in the atmosphere, which takes all the spring and vivacity out of the mind and body. Sunday, August 28th.—Still another rainy day,—the heaviest rain, I believe, that has fallen since we came to Concord (not two months ago). There never was a more sombre aspect of all external nature. I gaze from the open window of my study, somewhat disconsolately, and observe the great willow-tree which shades the house, and which has caught and retained a whole cataract of rain among its leaves and boughs; and all the fruit-trees, too, are dripping continually, even in the brief intervals when the clouds give us a respite. If shaken to bring down the fruit, they will discharge a shower upon the head of him who stands beneath. The rain is warm, coming from some southern region; but the willow attests that it is an autumnal spell of weather, by scattering down no infrequent multitude of yellow leaves, which rest upon the sloping roof of the house, and strew the gravel-path and the grass. The other trees do not yet shed their leaves, though in some of them a lighter tint of verdure, tending towards yellow, is perceptible. All day long we hear the water drip, drip, dripping, splash, splash, splashing, from the eaves, and babbling and foaming into the tubs which have been set out to receive it. The old unpainted shingles and boards of the mansion and out-houses are black with the moisture which they have imbibed. Looking at the river, we perceive that its usually smooth and mirrored surface is blurred by the infinity of rain-drops; the whole landscape—grass, trees, and houses—has a completely water-soaked aspect, as if the earth were wet through. The wooded hill, about a mile distant, whither we went to gather whortleberries, has a mist upon its summit, as if the demon of the rain were enthroned there; and if we look to the sky, it seems as if all the water that had been poured down upon us were as nothing to what is to come. Once in a while, indeed, there is a gleam of sky along the horizon, or a half-cheerful, half-sullen lighting up of the atmosphere; the rain-drops cease to patter down, except when the trees shake off a gentle shower; but soon we hear the broad, quiet, slow, and sure recommencement of the rain. The river, if I mistake not, has risen considerably during the day, and its current will acquire some degree of energy. In this sombre weather, when some mortals almost forget that there ever was any golden sunshine, or ever will be any hereafter, others seem absolutely to radiate it from their own hearts and minds. The gloom cannot pervade them; they conquer it, and drive it quite out of their sphere, and create a moral rainbow of hope upon the blackest cloud. As for myself, I am little other than a cloud at such seasons, but such persons contrive to make me a sunny one, shining all through me. And thus, even without the support of a stated occupation, I survive these sullen days and am happy. This morning we read the Sermon on the Mount. In the course of the forenoon, the rain abated for a season, and I went out and gathered some corn and summer-squashes, and picked up the windfalls of apples and pears and peaches. Wet, wet, wet,—everything was wet; the blades of the corn-stalks moistened me; the wet grass soaked my boots quite through; the trees threw their reserved showers upon my head; and soon the remorseless rain began anew, and drove me into the house. When shall we be able to walk again to the far hills, and plunge into the deep woods, and gather more cardinals along the river's margin? The track along which we trod is probably under water now. How inhospitable Nature is during a rain! In the fervid heat of sunny days, she still retains some degree of mercy for us; she has shady spots, whither the sun cannot come; but she provides no shelter against her storms. It makes one shiver to think how dripping with wet are those deep, umbrageous nooks, those overshadowed banks, where we find such enjoyment during sultry afternoons. And what becomes of the birds in such a soaking rain as this? Is hope and an instinctive faith so mixed up with their nature, that they can be cheered by the thought that the sunshine will return? or do they think, as I almost do, that there is to be no sunshine any more? Very disconsolate must they be among the dripping leaves; and when a single summer makes so important a portion of their lives, it seems hard that so much of it should be dissolved in rain. I, likewise, am greedy of the summer-days for my own sake: the life of man does not contain so many of them that one can be spared without regret. Tuesday, August 30th.—I was promised, in the midst of Sunday's rain, that Monday should be fair, and, behold! the sun came back to us, and brought one of the most perfect days ever made since Adam was driven out of Paradise. By the by, was there ever any rain in Paradise? If so, how comfortless must Eve's bower have been! It makes me shiver to think of it. Well, it seemed as if the world was newly created yesterday morning, and I beheld its birth; for I had risen before the sun was over the hill, and had gone forth to fish. How instantaneously did all dreariness and heaviness of the earth's spirit flit away before one smile of the beneficent sun! This proves that all gloom is but a dream and a shadow, and that cheerfulness is the real truth. It requires many clouds, long brooding over us, to make us sad, but one gleam of sunshine always suffices to cheer up the landscape. The banks of the river actually laughed when the sunshine fell upon them; and the river itself was alive and cheerful, and, by way of fun and amusement, it had swept away many wreaths of meadow-hay, and old, rotten branches of trees, and all such trumpery. These matters came floating downwards, whirling round and round in the eddies, or hastening onward in the main current; and many of them, before this time, have probably been carried into the Merrimack, and will be borne onward to the sea. The spots where I stood to fish, on my preceding excursion, were now under water; and the tops of many of the bushes, along the river's margin, barely emerged from the stream. Large spaces of meadow are overflowed. There was a northwest wind throughout the day; and as many clouds, the remnants of departed gloom, were scattered about the sky, the breeze was continually blowing them across the sun. For the most part, they were gone again in a moment; but sometimes the shadow remained long enough to make me dread a return of sulky weather. Then would come the burst of sunshine, making me feel as if a rainy day were henceforth an impossibility. . . . . In the afternoon Mr. Emerson called, bringing Mr. ———. He is a good sort of humdrum parson enough, and well fitted to increase the stock of manuscript sermons, of which there must be a fearful quantity already in the world. Mr. ———, however, is probably one of the best and most useful of his class, because no suspicion of the necessity of his profession, constituted as it now is, to mankind, and of his own usefulness and success in it, has hitherto disturbed him; and therefore he labors with faith and confidence, as ministers did a hundred years ago. After the visitors were gone, I sat at the gallery window, looking down the avenue, and soon there appeared an elderly woman,—a homely, decent old matron, dressed in a dark gown, and with what seemed a manuscript book under her arm. The wind sported with her gown, and blew her veil across her face, and seemed to make game of her, though on a nearer view she looked like a sad old creature, with a pale, thin countenance, and somewhat of a wild and wandering expression. She had a singular gait, reeling, as it were, and yet not quite reeling, from one side of the path to the other; going onward as if it were not much matter whether she went straight or crooked. Such were my observations as she approached through the scattered sunshine and shade of our long avenue, until, reaching the door, she gave a knock, and inquired for the lady of the house. Her manuscript contained a certificate, stating that the old woman was a widow from a foreign land, who had recently lost her son, and was now utterly destitute of friends and kindred, and without means of support. Appended to the certificate there was a list of names of people who had bestowed charity on her, with the amounts of their several donations,—none, as I recollect, higher than twenty-five cents. Here is a strange life, and a character fit for romance and poetry. All the early part of her life, I suppose, and much of her widowhood were spent in the quiet of a home, with kinsfolk around her, and children, and the life-long gossiping acquaintances that some women always create about them. But in her decline she has wandered away from all these, and from her native country itself, and is a vagrant, yet with something of the homeliness and decency of aspect belonging to one who has been a wife and mother, and has had a roof of her own above her head,—and, with all this, a wildness proper to her present life. I have a liking for vagrants of all sorts, and never, that I know of, refused my mite to a wandering beggar, when I had anything in my own pocket. There is so much wretchedness in the world, that we may safely take the word of any mortal professing to need our assistance; and even should we be deceived, still the good to ourselves resulting from a kind act is worth more than the trifle by which we purchase it. It is desirable, I think, that such persons should be permitted to roam through our land of plenty, scattering the seeds of tenderness and charity, as birds of passage bear the seeds of precious plants from land to land, without even dreaming of the office which they perform.