KCASA™ Hand Held Bidet Shower Toilet Seat Cleaning Bidet Sprayer Bathroom Kitchen Hygeian Faucet at Banggood

Read article : KCASA™ Hand Held Bidet Shower Toilet Seat Cleaning Bidet Sprayer Bathroom Kitchen Hygeian Faucet at Banggood

Hand Held Bidet Shower Bathroom Kitchen Hygeian Faucet
 

A bidet shower (bidet spray, bidet sprayer, or health faucet, sometimes colloquially called a "bum gun") is a hand-held triggered nozzle,
similar to that on a kitchen sink sprayer, that delivers a spray of water to assist in anal cleansing and cleaning the genitals after defecation and urination. 

Description:

The head of this bidet has 7 holes and a copper spool build in and it can provide three different water flows, mild, mudium, large mode.

When you push the switch with your thumb, the water flow will change until you find the most suitable water flow mode.

7 holes design can effectively increase water volume and reduce water pressure that can avoid skin irritation.

Groove design makes it easy and comfortable to take by hand and prevent slipping.

5 layer plating treatment can effectively prevent rust and make it elegant.

Usage:

The user typically grasps the faucet in the right hand and uses the thumb or forefinger (depending on the trigger location)
to aim a spray of water at the anus or genitals, sometimes using the left hand (never the right hand in many cultures) or toilet paper to assist cleansing. 
Use of the left hand only for cleansing, and considering it unclean in many circumstances in everyday life.

The health faucet is a source of water for people who prefer using water rather than other methods of anal cleansing.
The bidet shower is a relatively modern replacement for the traditional sources of water for this action,
such as the bidet, copper pot or bucket and mug, being more hygienic and compact.
There is no contact between the spray of water and the used water drainage.

Warm note:The bidet shower holder is randomly ship

Specification:
Brand: KCASA
Material: ABS
color:#656078
Weight: 67g
Working pressure: 0.1Mpa-1.0Mpa
Size of the water joint: G1/2"
Size of the bidet: about 72x165mm
Model: PY101
Technology: plating treatment
Funtion:  take shower, clean floor, wash closetool, water flower, wash car and ect. 

Package Included:
1x Toilet seat bidet
Or
1x Toilet seat bidet
1x Shower bidet holder
1x 1.2m stainless steel hose
1x Screw set

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Wet Room Design Considerations | Kitchen Bath Design

Read article : Wet Room Design Considerations | Kitchen Bath Design

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Expert Advice Aug 6, 2017   Share

A wet room can expand the space in a small bathroom, or create the sense of a luxury spa experience in any size bathroom.

authorsMary Jo Peterson 

The wet room is expanding in purpose, in definition and in its incorporation into residential bath design. Current wet room trends are likely driven by our love affair with free standing tubs and the space they require, as well as by European designs and our interest in the clean lines of minimalist design.

A wet room can expand the space in a small bathroom, or create the sense of a luxury spa experience in any size bathroom. As designers, we will be guided by a number of pros and cons, and design considerations relating to the integration of a wet room in a particular space, and this column will examine some of them.

WET ROOM BASICS

So, what is a wet room and where did it come from anyway?

The formal definition of a wet room is “a bathroom in which the shower is open or set behind a single wall, its floor area being flush with the floor of the rest of the room and the water draining away through an outlet set into the floor.”

Many wet rooms today include the shower and a tub, usually free standing, behind a wall or divider, often glass, separating the wet area from the rest of the room. Typically, the floor will be pitched slightly to a flush linear drain, with open passage or a door and doorway.

Today’s wet room is frequently part of a spa experience in a luxury and larger bath, but you might be surprised to know that this was once a concept used mainly in lower budget and institutional settings to improve access.

All bath designers have experienced the ubiquitous post-WWII 5’x8′ bath, and when square footage cannot be increased, the first step toward improving access and opening the clear floor space has been to eliminate the tub and make the entire space a wet room.

If you’ve traveled through Europe, you will likely have experienced traditional bathrooms that have evolved through the addition of a hand-held spray and a floor drain to include showers where historically, the tub was the main focus for bathing and personal hygiene. This, in essence, becomes a wet room by definition – and, depending on the care given to the design details and water control, a success. As in any bath or shower space, a prime consideration must be containing the water.

BENEFITS & CHALLENGES

Having defined what a wet room is, let’s look at the benefits, challenges and key design considerations relating to these spaces.

The foremost benefit of a wet room is that it opens the space, both visually and functionally, and usually improves access for a variety of bathers. In a small full bath, removing the tub and making the entire room waterproof reduces the amount of floor space given up strictly for passage. Another benefit of this concept is that it reduces the amount of space needed to convert a powder room to a full bath in a tight space.

The main challenge when the entire room is the waterproof or wet area is keeping desired items and areas dry. Towels and the lavatory can be planned out of the water’s path. Sometimes when designing for access in a 5’x8′ bath conversion, the toilet is planned on the wet side of the curtain or screen, so that it can do double duty as a shower seat – with a hand spray, it can support personal hygiene.

Of course this means extra challenges in keeping the toilet and its paper dry. To help resolve this, there are paper holders with covers, and because they’re flexible, shower curtains can be useful.

Another challenge in this scenario is the containing of water at the threshold of the room. Although a level entry is preferred, in limited space, one solution can be to raise the threshold not more than 1/2″; planning a second drain near the entry can also help.

When there is more space available, wet room design can include a generous shower, often planned to emphasize the tub, free standing or otherwise, and to bolster the sense of a luxury spa. Depending on the design, the tub may double as a seat for showering. A disadvantage for some would be the wetting of the tub every time the shower is used. This can be resolved with a pivoting glass screen between the two or, when the shower is large enough, the user can simply direct water flow away from the tub. When the space can be planned with no threshold, the expansion of clear floor space further increases safety, flexibility and visual impact.

Whatever the size, the waterproofing for a wet room is different than the traditional installation in that it covers more area and should be continuous. One approach is to use liquid or viscous membrane and to spread it over the entire area and up the walls of the wet room. As in any wet area, non-porous and slip resistant water-friendly materials must be specified throughout. Finish materials are typically run floor to ceiling – an added expense, but another enhancement of the luxury spa feeling.

Determining whether or not a level or flush threshold is possible requires consideration of the construction of the floor and whether the slope is possible, as well as the direction of the water flow and the distance from the water sources to the wet room’s entrance. Client preferences and intended uses also contribute, especially in the related consideration as to whether the entrance will be open or have a door, and what type of door. An open passage can be a beautiful design statement, enhanced by continuous use of the same flooring throughout, but it offers no assurance that the water or heat will be retained in the wet area. Adding a door will help resolve this, and the most effective option will be a hinged door with a gasket. In addition, incorporating radiant heat can help resolve the issues relating to warmth in the space.

Incorporating a wet room into a bath plan offers wonderful design options, but it clearly requires careful consideration and installation. It’s a huge opportunity for us as designers, and hopefully this conversation has whet your appetite to dive into the possibilities. ▪

Mary Jo Peterson is an award-winning designer whose work has earned national recognition, including induction into the National Kitchen & Bath Association’s Hall of Fame and recognition as the NAHB CAPS Educator of the year for 2014. Author ofUniversal Kitchen and Bathroom Planning (McGraw Hill) andGracious Spaces (McGraw Hill), Peterson is certified in kitchen, bath, aging-in-place and active adult housing design. She has over 25 years of experience, and is president of her own CT-based design firm, Mary Jo Peterson, Inc.

How to avoid mistakes when choosing a mixer

Read article : How to avoid mistakes when choosing a mixer

The mixer is an important part of kitchen and bathroom, which directly affects our daily comfort. To verify this it is enough to recall their feelings when the faucet suddenly started to leak or even break. However, how to choose among the enormous diversity of models, especially if they want to save money and time and choose the mixer independently in the catalog online store? Let’s step by step walk through all the options that you should consider when choosing a mixer. The design of the mixers Any mixer is composed of standard structural components: body, spout, mechanism of mixing, control and aerator. The housing of the mixer can be molded or mobile. In the first case, the stationary housing is a mechanism of the spout, and the lever on the side of it. These faucets are reliable and easy to repair, but less convenient to operate. Swivel body allows for greater convenience and water savings, but may require periodic replacement of gaskets rotating part of the mechanism.
Spout or goose — this is the part of the faucet, from which water flows. When choosing a particular model, pay attention to the height of the spout (can be from 2 to 90 cm) and its length (3 to 5 cm). They should correlate with the dimensions of the tub or sink so that water is not hitting the boards, was not sprayed and you have enough space to wash dishes or hands. The aerator attaches to the tip of the spout and consists of a metal mesh through which water is mixed with air. The aerator makes the water pressure is more soft, uniform and comfortable. Different mechanisms of mixing water Depending on the design of the mixer may vary and the mechanism of mixing water in it. Should there be any doubt that this factor will significantly influence your comfort and his life Kran-buksa The usual inside valve mixer tap with two handles for temperature and water head is a device called a crane buxoi. It connects to the valve and directly responsible for the water supply. There are two basic types of crane-books: worm gear and ceramic. The mechanism of the worm tap-bushing is a screw, one end of which is connected with the valve and the other to a rod on which is fixed a strip of rubber. When rotating the crane, the screw moves along the thread inside the tap head parts, rubber gasket is moving around, opening or closing the water supply.
It is obvious that the rubber gasket in the process of operation will rapidly deteriorate, and although it is inexpensive, the trouble of regular changing pads is inevitable. Ceramic crane Bush is characterized by the presence of two ceramic disks, one of which is stationary and the other is attached to the stock. Rotation of the valve causes the alignment of the holes on the discs, the water flowing in the mixer, or displaces them and the water flow stops. This type of faucet head parts are more durable and easy to use, but are more expensive and sensitive to water quality, as even a small grain of sand between the discs could be damaged. In case of breakage, you will have to remove the faucet-the journal box and around a lot of shops to find the suitable for your model of mixer. Crane-axle mixers are usually affordable and easy to repair, but have a high consumption of water and not too easy to manage. Ball mechanism Faucets with ball mechanism equipped with a handle which is adjustable and pressure, and water temperature. They work on the same principle as ceramic crane Bush, but instead of the disks they are placed in a hollow metal sphere with three holes (for cold water, hot water and for mixing them). Cuff and gaskets, locking mechanism ball, fairly quickly wear out causing the faucet may begin to leak. Cartridge Cartridge single lever mixer consists of two discs made of ceramic, as in the case of ceramic valve-boxes, and is a single piece, which, in case of breakage, changing completely. It is compact, most durable and easy to control mechanism. From the design perspective, this option presents the greatest scope for choosing a suitable model mixer. However, you must remember that all single lever faucets are sensitive to water quality and preferably the installation of the pipes filters purification. Various options for the installation of faucets To choose a mixer, you will have to decide exactly where it will be installed, especially now that it offers lots of options for every shape and preferences. Installation options of the mixer: wall (if the bath and sink are so close that you can do it all with one mixer, but in new houses this option is not always possible, as the pipe system in them is hidden and divorced separately for sinks and baths); outdoor (very effective from the point of view of design, however, costly and requires a lot of space variant); embedded (all liner pipes hiding behind the body of the sink or bath); embedded in the rim of the tub (you can find the model of the bath, designed for this type of machine, or embed it in the normal acrylic bathtub); ceiling (ceiling shower can provide a whole range of pleasant sensations and different options of water flow, but not always convenient for technical purposes). Classification by application Do not think that the same mixer suitable for sink in the kitchen and in the bathroom, because they differ not only in design, but structurally, for example, the length and direction of the spout, methods of control and installation, and materials. Consider specific options. Basin mixer As a rule, modern sinks apply embedded single-lever faucet with short fixed spout. The spout height of 12-15 cm is sufficient for washing hands and washing, besides, it would suit almost any, even shallow sink. If the sink located in the bathroom next to the toilet, it makes sense to equip it with a hygienic shower, which are easy to replace and bidet can be installed to separate the bathroom without a sink. Its principle of operation is simple: water passes through the spout of the faucet above the sink, regulate its pressure and temperature. Basin mixer with hygienic shower fitted with a button, clicking which you direct the water flow through the hose. After water treatment, the key should be released and water will again run the spout into the sink. For kitchen sinks In the kitchen are commonly used built-in mixers. Their main difference from the models for bathroom is the shape and size of the spout. For most kitchen faucets are characterized by long, swivel spout, allowing you to wash even large pots. The higher spout, the stronger the water pressure, however, and the likelihood that it would be in a spray, which means you’ll need a sink with a deep bowl. Choose a sink and faucet for the kitchen at the same time it is desirable that their dimensions match each other.
Kitchen faucets include a wide variety of materials. Featuring not only brass, bronze and chrome, but the original mixers-metal and plastic. If the kitchen has a double sink or have the need to wash heavy dishware, you can install telescopic mixer, consisting of several hollow tubes. In this case it is better to choose a trusted manufacturer, because additional connections increase the risk of failure of joints, gaskets, etc. If you want a kitchen faucet it covered a large area, it offers mixers with the exhaust pipe. Inside a small decorative crane hides hose 1-1. 5 m as a conventional soul, which you can use to reach different areas of the kitchen. Bath First of all, we should note that the bathtub faucets can be combined with a shower. Shower faucets are compact and do not have switch shower-bath and the spout, since the water is immediately fed to shower heads. Bathtub faucets with shower — the most common and versatile option. They are usually equipped with low spout and can be either fixed or swivel (suitable if one mixer is used for baths and sinks). In addition, the kit usually comes with a height adjustable shower holder. For shower rack The reception is a bar with multiple shower heads and allows you to combine the functions of a bath and a shower stall. The top rack is stationary watering can, allowing you to change the mode of water flow and provide a massaging and relaxing effect. In addition to the upper lake on the rack is usually attached shower with flexible hose. The alternative is a wall panel lake of arbitrary shape, directing water on you in the form of small rain drops with massage effect, so, it was called “tropical storm”. Ceiling shower Ceiling shower is used to create the effect of home spa, which provides various modes of water supply from tight massage jets, relaxing rain. The size of the ceiling of the heads ranges from 15 to 50 cm in diameter and unusual. This is a great option for relaxation, but a regular shower with a flexible hose for domestic use you still need. Bidet There are various options of mixers for bidets. You can choose a universal model, similar to the conventional mixer, however, is equipped with aerator that allows you to change the direction of the jet. In addition to bidet will fit faucets with hose for hygienic shower and faucets with a spout for bidet function internal padding. In the latter case, the mixer is mounted on the bottom of the bowl. Manufacturers The choice of mixers to suit different tastes and wallet today. Among the budget include a variety of mixers from China. The price of these products are really small however, it is unlikely that you can count on any guarantee of quality. Inexpensive cost and models of domestic production, for example, brand Rossinka. If we talk about popular brands in the higher price categories, well-established in the domestic market, the most popular Grohe (Germany), Hansgrohe (Germany), Jacob Delafon (France), Roca (Spain), etc. In their collections you can find both simple and reliable model of the average price, and the more original and expensive options created by the famous designers. Special types of faucets Modern faucets can be equipped with additional features designed to make your daily life or professional activities more comfortable. Thermostatic mixers The thermostat ensures the water supply is strictly selected temperature and pressure, protecting from unpleasant surprises during water treatment. Thermostatic mixers can be electronic with display for settings and mechanical, does not require additional power source and tuning with levers and valves. Faucets with touch controls Touch mixer has levers and valves and consists only of a crane. It is equipped with a photocell that respond to movement in a zone of about 30 cm using the special lever you set the optimal temperature of the water, which will be switched on and off automatically. Touch mixer will save you from worrying about whether you turned off the faucet and does not burn the children. On the other hand, it is not suitable for the kitchen or for a set of baths, as there need each time different temperature. Basically touch faucets used in public restrooms to save water and hygiene. Cascading mixers Cascading mixers differ from the ordinary form of a spout, from which water flows a broad stream, resembling a waterfall. Their advantages are a stylish and original appearance, durability and the ability to separate installation when the crane is located at one end of the bath, and the controls in another, and the main drawback — relatively high cost. Faucets with suction shower for hairdressers For beauty salons for the convenience of the client and the master used special types of mixers with long pull-out shower. As a rule, they are single lever and is also equipped with an aerator to reduce splashing and ensure a softer stream of water even under strong pressure. Surgical faucets The main difference between surgical mixers — long handle that allows you to turn on and off the water with your elbow, not touching your hands to the mixer, which is caused by increased hygienic requirements. Such mixers can be installed at home, such as in the kitchen and for people with disabilities. Modern faucet is not just a utilitarian device, and the interior decoration, possible to ease your household chores and get pleasure from the water treatments. On the website santechsystemy.ru you can find truly wide selection of faucets for any type of premises, preferences and financial possibilities. You should go and see it for yourself!

Luxe baths evolve into personal spas

Read article : Luxe baths evolve into personal spas

Settle in and have your achy muscles caressed. Breathe fragrant aromas of eucalyptus, lavender, sandalwood or grapefruit. Listen to Bach, Beethoven or cool jazz, and melt away stress in a steam shower.

Pamper yourself. You know you want to, and there’s no need to travel to an exotic location. Today’s luxe bath can be your own personal spa and so much more.

Like uber thread counts that determine a bed sheet’s degree of luxury, the number of jets and how many nozzles control the dance of water now are deciding factors in upgrading shower and tub features.

Even the lexicon has changed. Today’s home spa emphasizes hydrotherapy, and there is nothing ordinary about it. The water is healing and magical because of amazing technology.

“It’s all about de-stressing,” says Ann Roever, senior product manager of bathing products for Kohler Co.

Beyond the whirlpool, the choices today are dizzying. Consider how soothing or invigorating a massage you want. Then think about whether you want to add chromatherapy, which allows bathing in a pool of changing hues, or aromatherapy in a range of scents.

Showers simulating rain that virtually massages the body were a novelty a few years ago, but today most manufacturers offer at least one model. The German manufacturer Dornbracht offers a large rectangular rain shower that recesses into the ceiling and adjusts from the equivalent of a drizzle to a tropical downpour.

Hansgrohe’s Raindance Rainmaker features a “three-whirl massage” that goes from droplets to intense spray, plus four mood lights and two air-spray modes. It sells for just under $3,100 and looks like a futuristic feature from a spacecraft.

There now are WaterTiles, a Kohler trademark, which come in fetching square or round shapes, recessed for a cleaner look. Some are even directional, allowing adjustment of the spray to targeted areas. One of Kohler’s newest products is a sexy shower wand that provides a rain-like spray.

Glass showerheads offer another attractive design option in today’s home spa. Like other bathroom hardware, showerheads also are available in a range of finishes, including polished and satin nickel as well as oil-rubbed bronze. High-end models cost several hundred dollars apiece.

With so many body sprays, the inside of a shower these days may resemble a car wash. It’s not surprising that there’s a trend to open up the space and make it unencumbered even by glass doors, conforming to barrier-free universal principles. One of the more elaborate shower towers, the Waterhaven by Kohler, features seven water “ports,” a two- arched telescoping shower head, four movable body sprays and one handheld shower wand for $7,260.

Methven, an Australian company, this summer is introducing a spa experience called “shower infusions.” The infusions come from a small cartridge that fits into the base of a handheld shower wand, permeating the space with aromas as it hydrates. There are four flavors: Lift (a combination of grapefruit and pomegranate), Fresh (green tea and peppermint), Bliss (jasmine and ylang ylang, a tropical Asian tree) and Balance (lavender and vanilla).

Another company, Mr. Steam, offers in-shower music therapy speakers, aromatherapy and mood lighting.

The tub, as well as the shower, is not lacking bells and whistles. There’s the air bath that offers the champagne equivalent of tiny bubbles, which creates a soothing to invigorating massage. Some compare the air bath to bathing in hot springs. Or you can choose a soaking tub, a deeper tub also known as a Japanese bath.

Tubs no longer need to be tethered to a wall. Freestanding tubs in the middle of a room add a new dynamic to the bath. With crisp, angular lines or sculptural curves, these baths are showstopping artistic architectural centerpieces in an interior. One design from Agape resembles an enormous shallow bowl.

In an effort to stimulate the senses, MTI Whirlpool’s Stereo Water is an invisible audio system that delivers sound through the tub. State- of-the-art speakers are acoustic “transducers,” applied to the bath shell’s exterior surface near the waterline. The sound is evenly distributed within the tub, enveloping the bather in sounds of choice, from rousing rock to a calming concerto, according to the company.

Many tub extras can be monitored with the touch of a button on a control with digital readout. Some companies even offer remote controls that are submersible so you don’t have to lift your hand out of the water. Perhaps even more welcome are devices that baffle the sound created by whirlpool jets.

Of course, there are dozens of spa bath accessories, including ergonomically designed backrests and armrests, some heated to soothe tired muscles, neck massagers (Jacuzzi’s Fuzion 7242 whirlpool offers a cascading neck-massaging waterfall), heaters in tubs that keep warm water at a constant temperature, anti-fog mirrors and towel-warming drawers. Even pet spas manufactured by MTI Whirlpool are part of the mix.

As in other areas of the home, the emphasis these days is on customization. Pearl Baths Inc. offers “recipes” for specific therapies that direct sound, light and type of massage. SilverTag provides a computer-controlled environment with 18 showerheads and 30 shower frequencies, programmable with a touch screen. The price is staggering; it sells for about $100,000.

Bath design really began to evolve in the 1980s, when almost any room that was a candidate for remodeling got supersized. With an emphasis on health, fitness and cocooning, whirlpools were the centerpiece of the movement, with big tubs for two persons among the hot features. Footprints expanded, with space carved from extra bedrooms to create giant havens for relaxation, often with separate walk-in showers.

The trend took off in the ’90s, with more attention focused on healthy eating and exercise. Bath design continued to upgrade, and everyone wanted cabinetry that resembled furniture.

Recreating the day spa, or travel experiences at spas in luxury resorts, seems to be driving the 21st-century sanctuaries.

“With a day at the spa costing $400 or more, you can invest this money in your home and benefit over the long haul,” says Kohler’s Ann Roever.

The clean lines of the latest tubs and showerheads call out for a more minimal design style. Decorative accessories, furniture and fancy accoutrements (like dripping crystal chandeliers) arrived in the ’80s and still show up in traditional luxury baths, but the spa bath has taken on a decidedly more Spartan look.

The spa bath often features Zen-like environments. Vanities, basins and other furnishings often seem to float. Even toilets have morphed into more stylish forms, some more sculptural, such as rounded models recently introduced by Villeroy and Boch. Natural stones play a role; river rocks sometimes decorate tub surrounds and areas around showers.

Some detractors say the current spa trend smacks of hedonism and narcissism. A brochure from Pearl Baths suggests basking in a tub “reminiscent of Cleopatra” by adding flower petals or two cups of milk to the water. Still, there are therapeutic benefits. Bubbles promote circulation, and music and candles can be soothing.

“We think of the home spa as a place to relax, refresh, rejuvenate and retreat,” Roever says.

Bathroom Wiring—Requirements, Tips, and Tricks

Read article : Bathroom Wiring—Requirements, Tips, and Tricks

First, a caveat. Electricity is dangerous. Not just when you’re working with it, but after the fact as well; mistakes made during wiring can become fire hazards or, in the bathroom especially, electrocution hazards for future users. If you don’t know what you’re doing, hiring an electrician is the best tip we can give you.

If, however, you’re intent on giving it a go, here are some things you’ll need to know.

Outlets

Bathrooms consume a lot of power; they need lots of light, and there are lots of gadgets that are used in the bathroom, albeit not quite so many as in a typical kitchen. This means there needs to be electrical outlets. The old-fashioned bathroom with a single pair of outlets by the door or sink doesn’t really cut it anymore, so building outlets into your vanity or other bathroom cabinets is a great idea. It keeps cords out of the way, and looks great.

Just remember, all bathroom outlets must be GFCI protected. That stands for “ground fault circuit interrupt.” GFCI outlets detect a mismatch in the current going out through the hot wire (the small blade) and into the neutral wire (the wider blade). Electrical devices work by taking electricity from the hot wire, using some of its energy, and then sending it back to the neutral wire. If something goes wrong, and the electricity jumps to the ground, say, through a human body, it detects that, and reacts within milliseconds, saving people from electrocution. GFCI outlets typically have “Test” and “Reset” buttons on them.

While an experienced electrician may be able to install an inline GFCI, or wire a single GFCI outlet to protect multiple downstream outlets, it’s probably best to be safe rather than sorry, and use only GFCI protected outlets in a DIY bathroom project.

A typical modern bathroom runs on a single 20-amp fuse or circuit breaker, so when upgrading an older house’s bathroom, you may need to swap out the circuit breaker or fuse, and upgrade the wiring leading to the bathroom to avoid fire hazards.

Shower Lighting and Vent Fans

While there’s nothing particularly special about the wiring leading to bathroom lighting and vent fans—they run on a 15-amp fuse, most often—the fixtures themselves do have regulations, particularly around the shower and bathtub.

There are two kinds of fixtures: those rated for “damp” usage, and those rated for “wet” usage. All fixtures that will be in a volume of space extending out three feet from the edge of the shower or tub, to eight feet up from the rim, in all directions, must be rated for damp usage. Any fixture that is at risk for direct water spray from a showerhead or hose, must be rated for wet usage. Outside the 3’ x 8’ area, normal fixtures may be used.

Vanity Lighting

Vanities tend to be far enough away from the “shower zone” not to need any special consideration as far as the wiring goes for lighting. However, there are some tricks you may want to follow for the best look and feel, both for the bathroom itself, and for its users when looking in the mirror.

The best lighting tends to be on either side of the mirror. Sconces accomplish this well, and add a touch of elegance and class to a bathroom. Or, for a more modern feel, strip lights are an excellent choice. Whatever fixtures you choose, you’ll want them to be bright enough to provide ample illumination for the face, but not so bright that they blind you to look at directly; this is another reason why sconces are popular.

Even if you also have ceiling lights in your bathroom, you’ll probably still want separate vanity lighting. This is because light from above and behind tends to cast shadows on the face, especially when leaning in close to the mirror for fine detail grooming.

If you need help or ideas for your bathroom remodel, we’d be happy to provide professional advice. Visit us online to with one of our trained designers today. He or she will provide some great ideas on how to use our high-quality RTA cabinets to create the bathroom of your dreams!

Small Bathroom Darkroom Question - T-Shirt Forums

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Small Bathroom Darkroom Question

January 30th, 2010	Jan 30, 2010 5:00:29 PM -   #1 (permalink)
T-Shirt Lover T-Shirt Fan   You can call me: Steve Member Since: Jan 2010 Location: Maryland Posts: 20 Mentioned: 0 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s) Thanks: 33 Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts	Small Bathroom Darkroom Question Hello Everyone, Just for a heads up, I'm a total Noob. I decided to try screen printing only as a hobby. I'm going to be using a small bathroom without a shower/tub as my darkroom because it's the only room without a window in the house. However, I can't figure out, after many hours of research, how to store the screens for emulsion drying in the dark room. I've seen many nice drying cabinets but all are too big for the room. I'm looking for something small and portable that will allow me to store the screens in a light safe environment so I can exit the room. I'm contemplating buying a large plastic storage container (making it light safe) to store the screens flat but the container will not have any air flow to aid in the drying. Will that be an issue if I'm willing to wait 24 hrs? Pending the successful answer to question #1 my next question is: If I expose the screen in the dark room can I transport it to a non light safe bathroom for washout (approximately 30-45 secs) or will the emulsion harden before the washout is complete? Any help is much appreciated!!!

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January 30th, 2010	Jan 30, 2010 5:10:04 PM -   #2 (permalink)
Forum Member T-Shirt Member   You can call me: Miranda Member Since: Jan 2010 Location: Virginia Posts: 18 Mentioned: 0 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s) Thanks: 8 Thanked 5 Times in 5 Posts	Re: Small Bathroom Darkroom Question Hey Steve! I'm new to screenprinting as well...but I have also been using a bathroom as a darkroom. I did all my emulsion coating and exposing at night so I wouldn't run into light issues. I also turn off all the lights in my house as well. I just put a towel on the counter and laid the screen on top with a fan blowing on it to dry. If the lights outside the bathroom are off you should be fine exiting the room. As for your second question I don't think taking the screen to a non-light safe room to wash it out is a good idea...but I'm sure someone else can give you better insight to this question. The bathroom in the middle of my house doesn't have a window and has a shower so I just do everything in the bathroom.

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January 30th, 2010	Jan 30, 2010 5:28:45 PM -   #3 (permalink)
Forum Member T-Shirt Member   You can call me: Eddie Member Since: Dec 2008 Location: Yonkers NY Posts: 15 Mentioned: 0 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s) Thanks: 4 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post	Re: Small Bathroom Darkroom Question I used tape rolls (3 inch masking tape, or what ever you use o mask your edges) to hold the screens up face down (One on each corner of the screen) while the emulsion dried with a fan facing them. Just stacked them on the floor. You can even stack multiple screens if you wanted to but have to be extremely careful! My bathroom is also small bu I do have a shower in it so I didn't have to move the screens out. As long as you keep the emulsion away from direct UV light you should be okay though (complete darkness it not necessary) Check out youtees if you haven't. Good luck!

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January 30th, 2010	Jan 30, 2010 6:26:53 PM -   #4 (permalink)
T-Shirt Lover T-Shirt Aficionado   You can call me: Tom Member Since: Dec 2009 Location: Chardon, OH Posts: 160 Mentioned: 0 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s) Thanks: 5 Thanked 46 Times in 40 Posts	Re: Small Bathroom Darkroom Question Been screen printing for about 6 years now and I don't have a dark room at all - never have. We use primarily cap film which exposes very quickly. In fact, screens with the Cap film expose in our screen exposer about 5 X faster then DXP coated t-shirt screens. in either case ... I apply the cap film and the DXP with the lights on in the room. In there is a three 30 watt tube flourescent light.. not sure what type it is, but its the standard "office" type 24" fixture. There are no UV blockers on it. I've never had a problem with washout. While they dry, I do turn the lights off but they may see light for 5 - 10 minutes before that starts (I usually coat 4 - 5 screens at a time so the first one sits in the light while I do the others). Now ... I'm not recommending that you do this. The point is that emulsion cures from UV light, not visible light. Different lamp types emit different amounts of UV so any given light may be a problem ... or it may not (regular incandescents can be a problem, but yellow bug lights generally are not). Even if you have windows in your house you may be able to carry coated screens around in front of them - most modern windows have UV films on them that keep the UV from the sun from coming into the house. If your windows have that then you're probably fairly well protected - I still wouldn't lean them against the glass to dry, but walking past them with no other protection isn't going to hurt. You can also get sleeves for your flourescent tubes that filter out all UV without blocking the visible. Most flourescents don't put out too much UV in the first place, but these sleeves get rid of all of it so you can leave the lights on all the time. You'll want to limit exposure to light as much as possible, but generally speaking limited exposure probably won't hurt too much.

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January 31st, 2010	Jan 31, 2010 4:43:20 AM -   #5 (permalink)
Senior Member T-Shirt Mogul   You can call me: John Member Since: Nov 2009 Location: Tulsa Posts: 1,383 Mentioned: 2 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s) Thanks: 194 Thanked 219 Times in 189 Posts	Re: Small Bathroom Darkroom Question Kind of like an earlier post, in a small shop that I worked for we would coat the screens, put childrens blocks on the corners of the screens to keep them off the floor and separate from each other. We stacked them sometimes 8 high, then after they dried, put them in the box they came from for storage until they were used. Simple, cheap, worked just fine.

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January 31st, 2010	Jan 31, 2010 5:49:18 AM -   #6 (permalink)
T-Shirt Lover T-Shirt Aficionado   You can call me: Tom Member Since: Dec 2009 Location: Chardon, OH Posts: 160 Mentioned: 0 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s) Thanks: 5 Thanked 46 Times in 40 Posts	Re: Small Bathroom Darkroom Question For a simple drying rack you can buy four 8 ' 2 x 4's (about $3 each). Take three of them and stand them tall. Put one in the corner of the room. The other two about 18" - 21" out from the corner (or farther if you use 30" screens ... you basically want to be out at least 80% the length and width). Cut 18" - 21" pieces from the 4th one and tie the two on the wall back to the one in the corner. Connect at the top and bottom so you basically have a free-standing corner frame. Now, cut 1" - 2" blocks from the remainder of the 4th board. Using a finish nailer, nail one block each on the bottom of each leg of your frame. Put one of your frames on it (the thickest type you have then a small spacer (thick piece of cardboard and put your next block on all three legs and nail those on. Just work your way up from there and you'll have yourself a drying rack in no time.

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January 31st, 2010	Jan 31, 2010 5:58:00 AM -   #7 (permalink)
T-Shirt Lover T-Shirt Fan   You can call me: Terry Member Since: Nov 2009 Location: Fountain Hills, Arizona Posts: 82 Mentioned: 3 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s) Thanks: 1 Thanked 19 Times in 17 Posts	Re: Small Bathroom Darkroom Question It's OK to coat your screens in a room with lights on... but away from direct sunlit windows. You do need to allow the emulsion to dry in a dark room. A large box will do the trick in a confined space. For storage after drying, you can use a box or black garbage bag. If you need to transport exposed screens from exposure area to a washout area, place the screens in a black plastic garbage bag and you should be fine. Again, keep the screens away from any direct sunlight until you have washed them out completely. No better source of UV light than the sun, so you will expose your emulsion by an unshaded window.

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February 11th, 2010	Feb 11, 2010 5:20:24 PM -   #8 (permalink)
Forum Member T-Shirt Member   You can call me: Mat Member Since: Feb 2010 Posts: 11 Mentioned: 0 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s) Thanks: 7 Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts	Re: Small Bathroom Darkroom Question I use a closet as my darkroom and take my screens outside to washout. (usualy at night) If you do have to go outside to coat put the screens in a black trashbag and try to do your washout around dawn or dusk so there is low light.

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February 11th, 2010	Feb 11, 2010 5:51:10 PM -   #9 (permalink)
T-Shirt Lover T-Shirt Aficionado   Member Since: Jun 2007 Location: San Antonio, TX Posts: 283 Mentioned: 0 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s) Thanks: 17 Thanked 45 Times in 41 Posts	Re: Small Bathroom Darkroom Question Been doing this for a while now . . . when I first started and before I built my own drying rack. I got pieces of 1"x2" wood and cut into 2 in. pieces. coated the screens in the garage where with a bug light on. Then laid 1x2 on the floor at the top of screen and the bottom of the screen and repeated the process when I laid the screens on top of eachother. Then when the screens dried I put them in a black trash bag with a blanket over it to make sure of no UV exposure. When I burned the screen I sprayed it real good with water (water bottle) and moved it into a garbage can with a lid on it. Little at a time I lifted the lid and washed out the screen . . . (kind of a cheap way for a washout booth) never had a problem with this way . . . matter of fact when I work out of the home . . . I still wash out this way. Hit me up if you need any help. One thing to not if you have wet the emulsion after exposure and wait for thirty or so seconds. You can remove the entire screen from the dark and as long you immediately start washing out you should be fine. Key is to make sure the emulsion stays soft when washing. Hope this helps.

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February 13th, 2010	Feb 13, 2010 5:23:09 PM -   #10 (permalink)
Senior Member Certified T-Shirt Junkie   You can call me: Greaves Member Since: Nov 2006 Location: Wyandotte, MI Posts: 1,808 Mentioned: 5 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s) Thanks: 197 Thanked 480 Times in 322 Posts	Re: Small Bathroom Darkroom Question I understand you are starting and don't have the ability to cover any of your windows to make them light safe. Beware that when drying your screens, water is the enemy. The sink and toilet atomize water when you use them. If you sit on the toilet and flush, you will feel it. Keep an eye on the humidity of the room with with a digital hygrometer. You might consider putting a dehumidifier in the room to reduce humidity. After a night in your dehumidified room, the hygrometer will read it's lowest. As the dehumidifier reclaims the moisture the stencils have given up, the room will return to it's lowest Rh% and you will know all the screens are as dry as you can make them. __________________ How are you measuring? retired Ulano Technical Product Manager Screen printing since 1979 - SGIA Academy Member

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February 14th, 2010	Feb 14, 2010 3:44:45 AM -   #11 (permalink)
T-Shirt Lover T-Shirt Fan Thread Starter   You can call me: Steve Member Since: Jan 2010 Location: Maryland Posts: 20 Mentioned: 0 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s) Thanks: 33 Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts	Re: Small Bathroom Darkroom Question Follow up on Dark Room Questions: Maybe I've had some good luck but I've exposed a few screens with out any problems. I've found that after coating my screens I can exit and enter the bathroom quickly (obviously keeping down to the absolute minimum) without any adverse exposure. After exposing my screens I'll put them in a heavy gauge black trash bag and immediately take them to another bathroom which has been darkened by hanging a towel over the curtains (Not completely dark like a darkroom). I'll wet the screens, being very light conscious while allowing to soak, then using a hand shower head, wash the screens out. It's obviously not the optimal set up and workflow but it works for now. I have encountered one problem. The shower head spray nozzle I'm using does not have a lot of pressure therefore puts too much water on the emulsion. I've not had any blowouts yet but I can see it happening. I'm looking for a powerful jet nozzle or some way to attach a hose nozzle to the shower head (Any suggestions?). Thanks for all the replies!

February 14th, 2010	Feb 14, 2010 6:31:49 AM -   #12 (permalink)
Senior Member Certified T-Shirt Junkie   You can call me: Greaves Member Since: Nov 2006 Location: Wyandotte, MI Posts: 1,808 Mentioned: 5 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s) Thanks: 197 Thanked 480 Times in 322 Posts	Re: Small Bathroom Darkroom Question Remember, sensitizer reacts with invisible UV light, not visible light. Yellow light is safe light for processing screens because it is very low in UV energy and almost as bright as white light. I know it's Valentines Day, but don't go and buy a red safe light for visible light photography, because you will be only a little better than dark. Developing your stencil Water isn't your problem. You can never have too much water. You canhave, not enough exposure. This is the #1 screen making problem. #2 is a positive that doesn't stop all UV energy, like a bad raincoat. The perfect positive The purpose of exposure is to change the stencil from something that will dissolve with water to something that won't dissolve with water. If the stencil breaks down - it's exposure. The perfect positive stops all UV energy in the image area and lets UV energy harden/cure the stencil tat needs to stay in the mesh. Today's a good day to try this print Exposure is easy, if the image area doesn't dissolve, your positive failed to stop invisible UV energy from getting through your positive. __________________ How are you measuring? retired Ulano Technical Product Manager Screen printing since 1979 - SGIA Academy Member Last edited by RichardGreaves; February 14th, 2010 at 07:53 AM..

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February 21st, 2010	Feb 21, 2010 11:46:56 PM -   #13 (permalink)
Forum Member T-Shirt Member   You can call me: Mat Member Since: Feb 2010 Posts: 11 Mentioned: 0 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s) Thanks: 7 Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts	Re: Small Bathroom Darkroom Question If you're looking for pressure on the shower head, the sprayer end should remove and you can replace it with a hose nozzle. This should help with washout.

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