Showing posts sorted by relevance for query fresh water. Sort by date Show all posts
Showing posts sorted by relevance for query fresh water. Sort by date Show all posts

Sunday, December 10, 2017

Why filter perfectly good water?

Read article : Why filter perfectly good water?

By Greg Illes
Why filter perfectly good water? The answer to that question is another question: How good is “perfectly good”?

Many RVers use the water that the RV park supplies, straight from the tap. After all, that water comes from treated sources and should have no problems. Right?

Well — maybe. Yes, it’s reasonable to assume that a typical chlorinated municipal supply is biologically safe. But that’s only guaranteed at the water treatment plant output. The distribution system can be full of flaws that degrade the quality of the water before actual use.

And that’s not to mention if the local water is coming from a private well, with something subtle in the treatment protocol not working properly. UV irradiation bulbs burn out, filters get clogged, etc.

Aside from health issues, rust and sediment are the biggest culprits, and they increase with the age of the distribution system. The photo shows a graphic example: a new ceramic 0.5um (micrometer) filter, and a second one with only a few hundred gallons through it. It was so clogged with rusty sediment that the flow had slowed to a trickle. It had never been used anywhere except from certified sources.

Odors and tastes can be “safe” but still objectionable. A friend’s house, in another town, provided municipal water — with a noticeable “stink” when it first came out of the faucet. Nobody got sick, but it wasn’t pleasant.

Bottom Line: When I fill my motorhome’s fresh water tank, I would like to be certain that the next 75 gallons of water I drink, shower with, or use for cooking, is going to be good for my equipment, and good for me.

But such certainty is a real challenge. I can’t possibly test for contaminants and parasites every time I need a fill. And I can’t have every single possible filtration and treatment protocol (there are dozens) applied to all the water I take on.

The answer, as with so many things in life, is a compromise. With properly treated water as a baseline, I have settled for a simple configuration: a fairly fine-pore sediment filter, augmented with activated carbon. The fine-pore filter removes all but the tiniest particles of sediment and screens out any nasty protozoans that might have crept in (e.g., giardia, cryptosporidium). The carbon takes out any odors and tastes. For me, this is an acceptable balance between trouble/cost and quality/safety.

In order to keep an eye on my filter’s health, I chose a clear whole-house housing like the Pentek 150071 (shown). The business of actually doing the filtration is handled by a special high-flow cartridge like the Pentek Flo-Plus, which has great flow performance even with fine (0.5um) filtration. I would hate to have great water at the cost of an hour’s wait to fill my tank. (Not to mention holding up the people in line behind me.)

I screwed pipe-to-hose adapters into the housing so that it could be connected right at the source faucet — that way, I don’t let any “strange” water into my hoses or fittings.

YMMV (“Your mileage may vary,” for those who don’t know) — Note that different people (preferences, allergies, etc.), different water, locales, and use demand different solutions. What works for me might not be your best or safest choice. I’ve only outlined my configuration here by way of example, and not as advice. I’ve seen people with dual-filter setups, UV-light setups, silver-impregnated cartridges — the list goes on. Some folks don’t bother with filtration at all. Some people boil every drop that they drink. It’s up to each individual to sort out their own best approach.

Please feel free to leave a Comment about your own “adventures” with water, and your own filter solutions. We can all benefit (and often be entertained) by each others’ experiences.

Happy travels, and safe and healthy living as well.

Greg Illes is a retired systems engineer who loves thinking up RV upgrades and modifications. When he’s not working on his motorhome, he’s traveling in it. You can follow his excellent blog at www.divver-city.com/blog.

##GI-6-29-17; ##RVT800

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Saturday, March 4, 2017

HTC Bolt - Water and dust resistant - Support

Read article : HTC Bolt - Water and dust resistant - Support

Follow these tips and precautions to help maintain water and dust resistance for your phone.

Never attempt to insert or remove the nano SIM and microSD cards with gloves, wet hands, or when the phone is wet.

Note:
  • Before closing the card slot covers, wipe off every drop of water or dirt with a clean, dry cloth. Also make sure that no hairs, fibers, or small particles are caught between the covers and the slot openings to prevent water from seeping through the gaps and entering the phone.
  • Parts that maintain water resistance such as the card slot cover may degrade over time. If these parts degrade or get damaged, the phone will no longer be water resistant. If this happens, contact your retail store or mobile operator. You may be charged for parts replacement.

Do not intentionally submerge HTC Bolt. If the phone accidentally gets immersed in water, do not press the POWER and VOLUME buttons and do not operate the phone.

Do not expose the phone to fast or strong-moving water such as shower spray, running taps or faucets, waterfalls, or ocean waves.

Do not expose the phone to or let the USB port come in contact with the following:

image
  • Water containing soap, detergent, or shower gel
  • Sea water, swimming pools, spas, hot water, and hot springs
  • Any liquid besides tap water such as alcohol, juices, and condiments
  • Sand

If the phone is exposed to fresh water, make sure to dry it thoroughly. To avoid damaging the phone, do not charge when contaminants are present or the USB port is not completely dry. In these circumstances, do not connect any external device.

Never use a hair dryer to dry wet parts of the phone.

The power adapter and accessories are not water resistant. Never use them in wet areas such as in the bathroom or kitchen since contact with water may cause malfunction, electric shock, or other hazards.

Avoid leaving the phone in humid places such as the bathroom or kitchen for too long since it is not moisture-proof.

Sunday, December 10, 2017

2013 Jayco Seneca 37FS - RV Magazine

Read article : 2013 Jayco Seneca 37FS - RV Magazine
Jayco discontinued the Seneca after the 2010 model year absence when Chevrolet discontinued the Kodiak medium-duty truck chassis. Reborn in 2012, the Seneca now features a Freightliner M2 Business Class chassis. The 2013 Seneca offers a host of upgrades and improvements and really raises the bar. While it’s available in four different floor plans, including a 37RB rear bath model and a 36FK model with fireplace and large mid-coach entertainment center, the particular floor plan we reviewed was the popular 37FS bunk bed model that can sleep up to eight people.
Photo 2/18   |   2013 Jayco Seneca 37fs front Three Quarter
Construction
For 2013, the Freightliner Business Class chassis features a front leaf spring suspension and a new fully automatic air-ride rear suspension system that gives this Super C a smooth ride reminiscent of a diesel pusher Class A motorhome. A 55-degree wheel cut allows for excellent maneuverability in tight spots.
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Polished aluminum rims help set off the stunning full-body paint. Our particular coach came with the Espresso exterior paint décor and was protected against stone chips by a Diamond Shield paint-protection film.
Exterior
The massive three-piece chrome bumper gives the Freightliner chassis a real “big rig” look, plus you won’t need to replace the entire unit if you damage it when parking. Chrome heated and powered mirrors are augmented with rear and automatic side view cameras, which will display on the entertainment/navigation system by selecting that option on its touchscreen. A Carefree power patio awning provides plenty of shade in your patio area, and a keyless entry pad conveniently located near the entry door controls both the cab and entry power door locks. Deep tinted flush-mounted dual-pane windows give the motorhome a clean look and minimize wind noise. The front and rear fiberglass caps have a unique molded design with no corner seams to cause any leaks. Dual slide-outs are fitted with enclosed awning toppers for protection against debris and the elements.
optional exterior entertainment center includes a 32-inch LCD TV, AM/FM radio, and DVD player and is located behind a weatherproof cover in the patio area."> Photo 3/18   |   An optional exterior entertainment center includes a 32-inch LCD TV, AM/FM radio, and DVD player and is located behind a weatherproof cover in the patio area.
Living Area
Our Seneca was outfitted with the Mocha décor, which is one of three available décor packages. The wood floors and Washington Glazed Maple cabinetry with hidden hinges adds a warm look to the attractive interior and attention to detail, and the quality construction exceeds the fit and finish of some Class A motorhomes we’ve seen. The dual slide-outs in the 37FS open up the living and bedroom areas to provide plenty of floor space, and an 84-inch ceiling height ensures that you won’t be bumping your head. The soft-touch vinyl ceiling contains recessed halogen lighting throughout and a network of adjustable ceiling vents duct air from the dual 15,000 BTU air conditioners with heat pumps.
Photo 4/18   |   2013 Jayco Seneca 37fs living Area
The large front cap area sports a queen-size bed with a 32-inch LCD TV mounted on a powered swivel mechanism on the passenger side of that area. A rocker switch effortlessly allows the TV to swing out for whole-coach viewing or remain flat against the wall for bunk-area viewing or when not in use. A removable ladder affords easy access to the overhead bunk, and curtains can be used to separate that area from the rest of the motorhome. One optional feature, not included on this particular RV, replaces the overhead sleeping area with an entertainment center complete with 32-inch LCD TV and large storage cabinets to each side of the TV.
The driver-side Hide-a-Bed sofa located in the main slide-out makes into a bed for additional sleeping capacity. The Dream Dinette features a legless table that also makes into a bed by releasing a lever to effortlessly raise or lower the table. The comfortable booth seats are hinged to expose storage area beneath while a swivel recliner chair is located opposite the couch. The Flexsteel furniture features attractive UltraLeather upholstery, and seatbelts are provided at all locations, including the booth dinette.
The bathroom is equipped with a Thetford porcelain stool with foot flush and the shower is fitted with a circular enclosure with sliding frosted glass doors that prevent water from dripping on the floor when open. An overhead skylight provides warm, ambient lighting and additional height in the shower stall. The bathroom vanity also features a Corian top and a sink with an overhead medicine cabinet.
The bunk bed area is what separates this motorhome from the rest. The two stacked bunk beds are bound to be a big hit with young RVers. Each sleeping area has individual lighting, windows, and privacy curtains. A pair of optional entertainment centers is mounted in the ceiling above each bunk. Each flip-down display has an integral DVD player so that each occupant can view his or her own movie. External jacks for those all-important game consoles and headphones are provided as well as a storage pouch to place any auxiliary equipment to keep them out of the way. A cavernous drawer fitted with ball-bearing slides is located beneath the bunk beds and offers plenty of storage space for bedding or other large items.
The rear bedroom is equipped with a king bed with a comfortable pillow-top mattress. A large mirrored wardrobe complemented by a number of huge drawers in the bedroom slide-out at the foot of the bed provides tons of room for clothing. A 26-inch LCD TV is also placed there and is mounted on hinges to expose a deep storage area behind the flat screen. A large window located in the rear cap also serves as an emergency exit if needed.
Cockpit Area
The cockpit area is the typical Freightliner business class layout. The switches operating the cruise control are found on the dash. We would have preferred if they were mounted on the steering column for easier access because it was a bit inconvenient to reach. The Allison transmission’s T-handle shift lever is dash-mounted to the right of the steering column. The center dash area contains an entertainment and navigation system that uses a touchscreen to control the GPS navigation functions, radio, DVD, iPod, or rear-view camera functions. Immediately beneath this is the control panel for the Power Gear leveling jacks. A side cabinet located above the recliner contains the various controls used for the coach accessories, such as the Onan EC-30 automatic generator start module and a control panel for a Xantrex 1,800-watt true sine wave inverter that supplies power for the microwave oven and the RV’s entertainment systems. A holding tank monitoring panel and the slide-out operation switch are also placed here. Six-way power seats provide comfortable seating for both the driver and copilot. Power windows are also standard.
instrument panel includes a T-handle shift control for the Allison transmission as well as a radio/DVD/GPS system and controls for the Power Gear automatic leveling jacks."> Photo 5/18   |   The instrument panel includes a T-handle shift control for the Allison transmission as well as a radio/DVD/GPS system and controls for the Power Gear automatic leveling jacks.
Basement Area and Utilities
The basement storage space on the Seneca is nothing less than amazing. Every time I opened one of the side-hinged compartment doors, a spacious compartment made of tough, leak-proof Rotocast composite material was displayed. If you are one of those RVers who never has enough room to store your cargo, you’ll be very pleased with the Seneca. Excellent compartment height and wide swinging doors made it an easy task to load or unload cargo.
Photo 15/18   |   2013 Jayco Seneca 37fs basment Storage
A bank of four batteries is located in a forward driver-side compartment. These batteries are mounted on a slide-out tray for easy access when performing battery maintenance. The rearmost driver-side compartment houses an 8,000-watt Onan Quiet Diesel generator while a power cord reel makes quick work of rewinding the 50-amp power cord. A 10-gallon propane/electric hot water heater is located at the driver-side rear of the coach, while the 40,000 BTU propane furnace is located on the passenger side. A 56-pound chassis-mounted LP tank provides fuel for the water heater, furnace, and cooktop.
The plumbing service bay is spacious, offering plenty of room to store sewer hoses, fresh-water hoses, or a macerator pump. A whole-house water filter feeds the coach’s fresh-water system and an array of valves and controls offers access to operations such as filling the fresh-water tank, bypassing the water heater during winterizing, or operating the water pump. A paper towel holder, outside handheld shower attachment, black-tank flush attachment, and dump valves for the black and gray tanks complete that area.
storage bay features a long pass-through area that reaches to the far side of the RV for storing ladders or other tall items."> Photo 16/18   |   Basement storage space is cavernous in a Seneca. This particular storage bay features a long pass-through area that reaches to the far side of the RV for storing ladders or other tall items.
Driving the Seneca
Driving the Seneca imparted more of a big-rig feeling than in your typical Class C motorhome. The aerodynamically sculptured fiberglass hood tapers down at the front, which makes it easy to judge distances. The 340-horsepower Cummins diesel brought us up to speed rapidly, and the crisp handling of this chassis made the Seneca feel quite sporty for an RV. The hydraulic brakes were adequate to bring this 21,000-pound vehicle to a stop in short order, although it does take a bit more pedal pressure than the air brakes I am used to from driving Class A diesel pushers. This is a front-engine diesel chassis, so you won’t get the quiet sound of a rear engine diesel pusher, but I didn’t find the noise to be objectionable at highway speeds.
Photo 17/18   |   2013 Jayco Seneca 37fs floorplan
The change to the air-ride suspension that Jayco made during the 2013 model year is a welcome improvement. The fully automatic air-ride rear suspension system provided a much smoother ride. This is a big step forward for the Seneca and will probably make for an enticing upgrade to owners of earlier models with rear leaf spring suspensions.
The Seneca fills a sweet spot between typical Class C motorhomes and their more expensive Class A cousins. The Seneca is a great choice for Class A owners who want to downsize but don’t want to lose the quality, amenities, and storage that they are accustomed to. From its solid surface countertops, to its wood floor, to hardwood cabinetry with screwed stile construction, they may even find it exceeds what they were accustomed to. While large in size, most Class A motor-home floor plans aren’t designed to sleep many people. The 37FS Seneca can easily sleep eight, so large families will find this particular floor plan very desirable. For a couple who travels alone, the rear bath 37RB floor plan is another popular choice.
The torque and power of the Cummins diesel combined with a 10,000-pound trailer hitch means you won’t have any trouble hauling anything you need. Perhaps the most noticeable feature of the Seneca is its huge amount of storage space. With a generous cargo-carrying capacity in excess of 4,000 pounds, you can feel free to load it up.
Jayco has equipped the Seneca with a ton of upgrades as standard equipment. In fact, our well-appointed Seneca only had two options—a larger 8kW generator and the DVD players in the bunk beds. The only other available options that were not selected were a choice of combo or stackable washer-dryer and a front entertainment center to replace the overhead bunk. This pricing method is a plus at resale time because RV dealers generally look at base price without options when determining a trade-in value, so the Seneca should fare well when it’s time to trade up. Jayco backs the Seneca with a two-year bumper-to-bumper warranty, which is also a plus when comparing it to other motorhomes and does add a testament to the quality they put into this unit. With all these features packed into an attractive motorhome, the Seneca will be a tough act to beat.
Photo 18/18   |   2013 Jayco Seneca 37fs onan Generator
At a Glance
Base Price: $216,720 (MSRP)
Standard Features:
• Full-body paint
• Accuride aluminum wheels
• 32-inch exterior LCD TV in galley slide
• 1,800-watt true sine wave inverter
• 32-inch LCD TV in main living area
• 26-inch bedroom LCD TV
• 40,000 BTU LP furnace
• 10-gallon gas/electric DSI water heater
• King bed with pillow-top mattress
Customer Value Package
Includes:
• 12-cubic-feet refrigerator with ice maker
• Two 15,000 BTU ducted air conditioners with heat pumps
• Backup and side view cameras and monitor
• Convection microwave oven
• Power electric cord reel
• In-motion Minimax satellite dome
• Touch screen in-dash CD/DVD/MP3 sound system with GPS navigation
Flexsteel UltraLeather driver (powered) and passenger (no power) seats
Optional Features:
• Onan 8,000kW Quiet Diesel generator (6kW standard)
• Dual CD/DVD players in bunk beds
Price as Tested $218,779 (MSRP)
Specifications
2013 Jayco Seneca 37FS
Gross Vehicle Weight (GVWR): 26,000 lbs
Gross Combined Weight Rating (GCWR): 33,000 lbs
Cargo Carrying Capacity (CCC): 4,639 lbs
Wheelbase: 275 in
Overall Length: 39 ft, 1 in
Overall Width: 102 in
Overall Height: 151 in
Interior Height: 84 in
Fresh Water: 81.5 gallons
Gray Water: 41 gallons
Black Water: 52 gallons
Chassis: Freightliner M2 Business Class front-engine diesel
Tires: Michelin XZE2 275/80R22.5 14 Ply Load Range G
Front Suspension: 8,000lb Taperleaf leaf springs
Rear Suspension: 18,000lb Airliner fully automatic air-ride suspension
Brakes: Hydraulic disc brakes, front and rear
Fuel Tank: 30- and 40-gallon saddle tanks (74-gallon total), plus 6-gallon DEF tank
Trailer Hitch Capacity: 10,000 lbs
Engine: Cummins 6.7L ISB with exhaust brake
Horsepower: 340 hp @ 2,800 rpm
Torque: 660 lb-ft @ 1,600 rpm
Transmission: Allison 2500 six-speed automatic

Wednesday, May 24, 2017

RV Plumbing Tips – Cleaning RV Faucets, Sink Drains & Shower Wands

Read article : RV Plumbing Tips – Cleaning RV Faucets, Sink Drains & Shower Wands

The effects of hard water on RV sinks, faucets and drains can be an ongoing problem for RVers. This page describes a few tips for how we remove these pesky mineral deposit buildups from our bathroom and kitchen sinks in our fifth wheel trailer and keep the water flowing smoothly in our shower wand and RV toilet rinse sprayer.

<a href=RV plumbing tips for cleaning RV faucets and drains and removing mineral deposits" width="731" height="384" class="size-full wp-image-50990" />

RV plumbing tips for removing mineral deposits and cleaning RV faucets and drains.

We like the water to flow freely in our RV vanity sink faucet, kitchen sink faucet and in the shower and RV toilet sprayer wands, however, periodically these faucets begin to spray water in weird directions because their inner workings have gotten clogged up by mineral deposits from the hard water.

In our bathroom vanity, our first step is to remove and clean the screen filter in the faucet. Sometimes the faucet tip can be unscrewed by hand, but if we’ve let it go too long, we have to use a pair of pliers to break the faucet tip free due to corrosion that makes it impossible to unscrew.

Remove <a href=RV faucet screen with pliers" width="701" height="515" class="size-full wp-image-50993" />

Remove the RV faucet screen (with pliers if it’s stuck!)

Then we unscrew the entire screen assembly from the faucet.

Disassemble RV faucet

The faucet tip unscrews from the faucet.

Dirty <a href=RV faucet screen" width="681" height="518" class="size-full wp-image-50995" />

Ugh… the screen is pretty dirty. No wonder the water comes out funny!

This time the screen was very corroded. We remove the corrosion and mineral buildup by putting all the pieces in a bath of white vinegar for 20-30 minutes or so.

Prior to putting the pieces in the white vinegar bath, it is a good idea to make note of the order that these parts go into the faucet assembly!

Soak RV faucet parts in white vinegar

After noting how the pieces go together, soak them in white vinegar.

After the bath, the bits of corrosion can be seen in the white vinegar!

RV faucet parts get cleaned with white vinegar

Here are all the pieces. You can see the dirt that came off in the vinegar bath!

Using an old toothbrush, we scrub each piece until it is clean.

Use toothbrush to clean <a href=RV faucet screen" width="681" height="534" class="size-full wp-image-50997" />

Use a toothbrush to get the screen totally clean.

RV faucet cleaning with toothbrush and white vinegar

Scrub all the parts with the toothbrush.

Then we reassemble the pieces in the correct order and orientation.

Reassemble RV faucet after cleaning 2

.

Reassemble RV faucet after cleaning 1

Reassemble the pieces.

Put RV faucet together after cleaning it 2

.

Put RV faucet together after cleaning it

.

To make it easier to remove the faucet tip the next time we do this job, it helps to grease the threads with a marine PTEF lubricant prior to screwing the assembly back onto the faucet.

Lubricate RV faucet with PTEF lubricant grease

Lubricating the threads makes it easier to unscrew next time!

Lubricate RV faucet after cleaning

.

Reassemble RV faucet

Screw it back into the faucet.

RV faucet cleaned and lubricated

Ta da! Now the flow will be smooth and full.

Our trailer has white plastic sinks in the bathroom and kitchen, and these sinks often develop a skanky brown ring around the sink drain. For years, we relied on Comet to clean these sinks. We sprinkled it on the entire sink, let it sit for a bit, and then scrubbed.

We recently discovered that Baking Soda is just as effective!! The fantastic thing about Baking Soda is that it is non-toxic. This is wonderful not only for our gray water holding tanks but also for the RV dump stations as well as the septic fields and municipal waste water treatment systems that are downstream from them.

It’s also really cheap!

Tips for cleaning an <a href=RV sink drain" width="751" height="394" class="size-full wp-image-51008" />

White plastic RV sinks are prone to getting ugly stains.

Dirty <a href=RV sink drain" width="701" height="511" class="size-full wp-image-51009" />

Yuck!

We simply sprinkle it on the sink and then scrub the sink with a damp Scotch-Brite scrubbing pad.

<a href=RV sink drain cleaning with baking soda" width="721" height="495" class="size-full wp-image-51010" />

Sprinkle the baking soda in the sink and scrub the stains with a damp scrubby pad.

What a great result — a wonderfully squeaky clean sink!

<a href=RV sink drain is sparkling clean" width="701" height="483" class="size-full wp-image-51011" />

Sparkling!

The drain plug also gets gummy, and we use an old toothbrush to scrub it clean with either baking soda and/or Murphy’s Oil Soap (a handy all around biodegradable cleanser).

In an RV that is used for dry camping a lot, like ours, the bathroom vanity sink drain can get really gross really quickly because in an effort to conserve fresh water not much clean water gets flushed down the drain.

This can result in foul odors in the sink drain, and it’s pretty unsightly too.

So, we do two things.

First, we scrub the inside of the bathroom sink drain with an old toothbrush. To get a longer reach down the drain, we taped our toothbrush to an old tent stake we had lying around. Anything long and narrow will work.

Toothbrush and extension rod to clean <a href=RV sink drain" width="800" height="256" class="size-full wp-image-51013" />

Tape an old toothbrush to a long stick to reach deep down the RV sink drain.

Cleaning an <a href=RV sink drain" width="721" height="481" class="size-full wp-image-51014" />

Scrub inside the sink drain.

We also scrub the sink drain plug.

Second, to keep the RV bathroom sink drain fresh smelling, we use Happy Camper Holding Tank Treatment which we’ve found is a particularly good deodorizer. We put scoop of powder in an old water bottle, fill it up with water and shake it well (the bottle gets warm as the enzymes get activated!), and then pour it down the drain.

Most of it goes into the gray water tank, but a small amount stays in the bathroom sink drain p-trap and does its magic there, killing off the offensive odors.

Use toothbrush to scrub <a href=RV sink drain plut" width="721" height="481" class="size-full wp-image-51012" />

Scrub the sink drain plug with a toothbrush.

To keep our RV shower in tip-top shape, we clean the drain there as well. The biggest problem in our RV shower drain isn’t foul odors, because the shower drain gets flushed with lots of water everyday. Instead, the challenge with the RV shower drain is accumulated hair.

In a house, it’s easy enough to use a powerful cleanser like Drano to clean out any clogs caused by hair, but we don’t want strong chemicals like that sitting in our gray wastewater holding tank. Afterall, we want the enzymes and bacteria in the Happy Camper and Unique RV Digest-It holding tank treatment products we use to thrive and go to work breaking things down!

So, we use a long spring hook (and flashlight) to pull the hair out. It just takes a few minutes and then the drain is clear.

Some RV shower stalls may have drain components that can be removed for cleaning. Ours doesn’t.

Cleaning hair from an <a href=RV shower drain" width="631" height="539" class="size-full wp-image-51015" />

Use a spring hook to pull hair out of the RV shower drain.

Periodically, the RV shower wand gets crudded up with mineral deposits just like our RV sink faucets do. Again, we rely on white vinegar to clean up the deposits clogging the spray holes in the shower nozzle.

First, we pour the white vinegar through the shower wand to let it soak from the inside.

Tips for cleaning an <a href=RV shower wand" width="681" height="712" class="size-full wp-image-51016" />

The RV shower wand can be cleaned with white vinegar.

Then we soak the shower wand’s face in a bath of white vinegar.

Tips for cleaning an <a href=RV shower wand" width="751" height="421" class="size-full wp-image-51017" />

Put the RV shower wand face down in a white vinegar bath to clean all the little holes.

If we’ve let a little too much time pass, we’ll also use a toothpick to clean out each hole in the shower head. We use bamboo toothpicks because they hold up well in water. Ordinary wooden toothpicks tend to disintegrate when they get wet. A scribe also works well.

The before-and-after difference in the flow of water through the shower wand is startling. When half of the little holes are blocked from mineral deposits and the other half have an impeded flow, the water can feel like needles on your skin. After cleaning the wand, it is more like a waterfall.

Clean each hole in an <a href=RV shower wand with a toothpick or scribe" width="681" height="516" class="size-full wp-image-51040" />

Use a toothpick or scribe to clean each hole in the shower wand.

Lots of RVers love the Oxygenics RV shower head. We don’t use it because it doesn’t work well with the low water pressure we use to conserve water since we dry camp every night, but for RVers who get water hookups a lot, these shower heads are extremely popular. Of course, in hard water areas, these shower heads will need periodic cleaning as well.

The RV toilet bowl rinsing wand is also subject to corrosion from mineral deposits, and after a while when we go to rinse the toilet bowl we find the water flow from the sprayer is restricted and funky.

<a href=RV toilet sprayer wand cleaning" width="721" height="481" class="size-full wp-image-51018" />

The RV toilet sprayer wand gets clogged with minerals too.

Again, it’s easy to unscrew the end of the toilet spay wand, put it in a white vinegar for 20-30 minutes, scrub it a bit with a toothbrush, and then put it back on the wand.

RV toilet rinse wand cleaning

Unscrew the tip of the toilet rinsing wand and soak it in white vinegar to clean the holes.

As an aside, if you have energy leftover after cleaning all your RV sinks, faucets, drains and spray nozzles, a spray bottle filled with a water and white vinegar mixture is super for washing the windows. As I wrote this, some flies got in our trailer and Mark started spraying them when they landed on the window next to him using a spray bottle filled with water and white vinegar. Besides slowing them down and killing them, he was really impressed with how clean the window was when he finished!

So, these are a few of the things we do to keep our sinks and drains flowing smoothly in our life on the road in our RV.

We hope they help you too!

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Monday, September 11, 2017

2016 Bestevaer 45ST Pure Sail Boat For Sale

Read article : 2016 Bestevaer 45ST Pure Sail Boat For Sale

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Additional Specs, Equipment and Information:


Dimensions
Beam: 4.05 m
Maximum Draft: 2.15 m

Hull and deck

Aluminium hull, round bilge

Aluminium superstructure and pilot house

Above CWL 5-6mm, seawater resistant aluminium H321 5083

Below CWL 6-12mm, seawater resistant aluminium H321 5083

2x watertight bulkheads at bow and aft (= 3 compartments)

6x zinc annode (2x hull, 2x keel, 1x rudder, 1x propellor)

Fold down manually operated swimming platform

Welded chain plates, single bollards (6x), through hull fittings

Integrated diesel tanks (2x) and water (2x) tanks

Hull sanded for smooth finish



Keel and Rudder

Fixed keel with bulb

Bulb filled with lead ballast

Emergency steering in the cockpit

Single aluminium spade rudder

Rudder stock from aluminium

Rack and pinion steering system, JEFA



Paint and Decking

All horizontal (walking) areas painted with non-slip paint

Colour paint Grip Oyster White or Grey

Cockpit seats and coaming covered with cork

Anti-fouling, choice of red or black



Exterior Storage space

2x cockpit accessed lazarette lockers

1x storage locker beneath cockpit coaming, aft to starboard

1x foredeck storage locker

4x open storage in the cockpit seating backrests

1x gas locker, aft to port, for 4x 5kg (1x 5kg provided)



Sailing hardware

Manual winches in cockpit 2x 50 + 2x 46, Harken

Manual winch at mast 1x 46, Harken

2x winch handles, Harken

Deck hardware, Selden

Stoppers, Spinlock

Stainless steel stanchions, with double wired guardrail

Stainless steel push and pulpit

Stainless steel side boarding gates to port and starboard



Hatches and Windows

Pilot house 9x windows single glazed

Pilot house 2x opening Lewmar hatches, size 30

Superstructure 3x opening Lewmar hatches, size 60

Superstructure 2x opening Lewmar hatches, size 30

Superstructure 8x opening Lewmar hatches, size 3 portlight

Aft cabins 2x opening Lewmar hatches, size 5 portlight

Vertical and horizontal plexi glass entrance hatches



Deck openings

2x deck fillers for diesel and 2x deck fillers for water

1x deck discharge for black water tank

2x cockpit drain, 4x deck drain



Anchoring/Mooring

Anchor Delta 25 kg with anchor winch, Lewmar V3

Anchor chain 8 mm x 70m, galvanized, in chain box

Anchor locker forward, self draining

Anchor bow fitting with 2 anchor rollers

6x tube fenders with lines, black

4x 15m mooring lines, 16mm, black



Mast

Seldén aluminium mast, 2 spreader, deck stepped, anodised

Seldén aluminium boom, slab reefing, anodised

Seldén mast hardware

3 colour mast head light, steam, anchor and deck lights (LED)

Sloop rigged (9/10)



Standing and Running Rigging

Seldén standing rigging of 1 x 19mm wire

Furlex fixed genoa stay with manual furling genoa

1x main halyard, 1x genoa halyard, 1x spi halyard

1x outhaul, 3x reef lines, topping lift

1x main sheet, 2x genoa sheets



Sails (Doyle)

Mainsail Dacron triple stiched, 3 reefs, 6 full-batten, tell-tales

and crosscut design 60m2

Furling genoa Dacron, 45m2

Mainsail cover marked ‘Bestevaer 45ST’



Safety

Self draining cockpit

Deep and sheltered cockpit

Cockpit enclosed on all sides

2x aluminium handrails on top of pilot house (welded)

2x aluminium grabrails on aft of pilot house (welded)

3x watertight compartment

2x watertight bulkhead

Engine is placed in watertight aft compartment

Aluminium spade rudder

Aluminium escape ladder at the stern

1x automatic bilge pump and 1x manual bilge pump

Raised bulwark/footrail for grip under heel

Handholds throughout interior

U-shaped galley for safe cooking whilst underway

Liferaft in bag, 6 person

3x foam extinguishers

1x extinguisher opening for engine room



Engine

Yanmar 54hp, 4JH5E

Yanmar saildrive SD60

Dieselfilter

Acoustic insulation

Twin pole electric installation

Cooling water system

3-blade fixed propellor

Engine throttle in cockpit

Engine service panel in pilot house

Engine access from port and starboard lazarette lockers



Electric systems

Twin pole 12V DC installation with hull leak meter

230V AC shore power with 25 m cable, 3 groups fused

1x 12V instrument panel at chart table

1x 12VDC switch panel in saloon

2x 100A-12V service battery, gel

1x 66Ah-12V engine battery, AMG

Battery charger 12V 30 Amp



Bilge pumps

1x electric pump in bilge in salon, 35 L/min

1x manual pump in lazarette/engine compartment



Fresh water

Presurised fresh water system

40L calorifier supplied from engine or shore power

Hot/cold water in galley

Hot/cold water in bathroom

Hot/cold water at deck shower



Waste water

Water from shower and shower sink pumped overboard

Waste from toilet direct to holding tank

Grey water from galley with gravity fall overboard



Interior

I. Styling

Floor in American Black Walnut

Woodwork of cabinets and furniture in light Bamboo

Floor to be screwed down shut

Off-white walls, bulkheads and ceiling

Fittings in matte chroom, design look

Doorhandles matte chroom, design look

Damixa, mixer tap fittings in galley and head

Ventilated lockers and storage spaces

Rounded corners on furniture below 120cm

II. Pilot house

Port and starboard seating, 1400mm long each

Starboard has flat worktop for charts, etc.

Open into galley to port

Footrest on port and starboard

2 steps from cockpit into pilot house

1 steps from pilot house to salon

Storage boxes beneath all steps

Large hatch in floor for storage

Small storage space behind back rests for pens, sunglasses.

1x white/red chart light

2x reading lights on aft bulkhead

2x ceiling lights white/red

III. Galley

One and a half stainless steel sinks

Corian or equal marble work top

Force 10 Oven with 3 burners

4x storage lockers above worktop

2x storage lockers besides oven

1x storage drawer besides oven

1x storage locker underneath oven

1x utensil drawer opening toward salon table

2x lockers opening toward salon table

1x rubbish bin under sink

1x storage locker under sink

1x storage drawer above refridgerator

1x frontloading refridgerator 100L

1x storage space for bottles behind worktop/oven

1x aluminium anodised vertical handgrip on worktop

1x double socket 220V

IV. Salon

Starboard and port salon seating 2000mm long

Storage behind and under the salon seating

2x lockers above couch to port

2x lockers above couch to starboard

1x book shelf at bulkhead, white with wooden trim

Port bulkhead storage box for bottles

Starboard bulkhead storage box for bottles

Mast support at bulkhead

Dining table 120x140cm

Both sides of dining table fold down

3x LED reading lights

2x LED ceiling lights white/red

1x double socket 220V

V. Aft cabins

Large shelf at foot of bed, white with wooden trim

Small shelf at bed head, white with wooden trim

1x mattress 120mm foam core

2x ventilated bunk tops

Storage space beneath mattress

Starboard cabin 1x drawer under bed, front access

Starboard cabin has 1x hanging locker

Starboard cabin has 1x shelf locker

Starboard cabin has floor space and door for privacy

Starboard cabin has 2x LED reading lights

Starboard cabin has 1x LED ceiling light white/red

Starboard cabin has 1x single socket 220V

Port cabin alternative use as storage room

Port cabin 1x drawer under bed, front access

Port cabin has the entrance from the galley, with no

seperate floor space for standing

Port cabin has 1x LED reading lights + 1x LED ceiling light

Port cabin has 1x single socket 220V

VI. Owner cabin

Large bookshelf at foot of bed, white with wooden trim

Small shelf at port, white with wooden trim

1x mattress 120mm foam core

2x ventilated bunk tops

Storage space beneath mattress

3x lockers under bed, side access

1x hanging locker at bulkhead

1x shelf locker to starboard

1x vanity unit between lockers with fiddle

2x storage locker sat vanity unit, top access

2x LED reading lights head of berth

2x LED ceiling light white/red

1x single socket 220V

VII. Toilet compartment

1x manual Jabsco toilet

1x wall mounted full shower, thermostatic mixer tap,

Damixa

1x shower curtain on roller

Floor of customized aluminium grid

1x shower drain pump with manual switch

Walls of waterresistant off-white laminate

1x stainless steel sink with mixer tap, Damixa

1x washbasin with storage under sink + storage locker,

white, from water resistant material

1x Lewmar hatch in ceiling for ventilation and light

1x Lewmar hatch in coaming for ventilation and light

1x blackwater tank ca. 60L with 3/4 full indicator light

1x ceiling LED white/red

1x single 220V socket



Options

HULL & DECK

Upgrade from tiller to wheel steering (change of cockpit) €6.250

Centreboard (1,40 - 2,95m) with twin aluminium rudders €28.450

Round portholes in the hull, with reinforced glass (per piece) €2.500

Radar support pole, anodised aluminium, at stern (excl radar) €2.250

Solid railing from stainless steel at stern, to the side gates €3.480

Fixed davits at stern, max load 150 kg, stainless steel €2.650

Painted hull from waterline upto freeboards €28.000

Paint on the sides of the inside cockpit area €2.450

Esthec on walking areas deck + cockpit floor/seats €21.450

Replace cork with Esthec in the cockpit €5.525

Teak on walking areas deck + cockpit floor/seats €17.450

Upgrade to thermopane layered windows in pilot house (9x) €5.500

Deck wash pump in foredeck compartment €1.250

ELECTRICAL & ELECTRONICS

Upgrade engine from 54 hp to 75 hp Yanmar 4JHE HTE €5.775

Extra diesel tank (only possible with fixed keel) €2.850

Automatic fire extinguishing system in engine room €720

Water generator Watt&Sea 300W (8 amp @ 9kn) €6.400

Wind generator Superwind €5.450

Solar panels total 250W from 3 pieces €3.275

Lithium-Ion 12V/5kW battery pack €2.850

Bow thruster fixed tunnel, Sidepower 185 mm 6kw €6.400

Mastervolt Cruising Package: MASS GI 3,5 kW + MV combi

100A 2500W including Masterview easy panel €4.290

120 Amp second alternator €2.650

Flex-O-Fold folding propeller 22” €3.785

B&G Nav/Comm package as below:

VHF+ sp/wd/dpt meter + autopilot + radar + plotter + AIS €14.595

INTERIOR

Upgrade to French bed (centered) in front (owner) cabin €4.950

Heating Webasto air heater 5kW, 3 exits €3.480

Heating Webasto air heater 5kW, 5 exits €5.980

Dickinson diesel oven heater 4kw €5.790

Oceanair sky screens and musquito screens (at 7 hatches) €4.200

Upgrade to electric toilet Planus €1.400

Fusion radio + DVD player (iPhone/iPod compatible) €675

Manual pump for fresh water in galley €480

Freezer/fridge combo Isotherm 40L top loader (auto-pumping) €1.945

RIGGING

Aluminium mast painted white €5.950

Carbon mast, Selden €42.500

‘Lazy Rack’ system mounted on boom, unpainted aluminium €2.950

Gybe preventer €1.400

Cutter rig with manual Furlex 200S (excl. sails) €7.195

Upgrade to removable cutter stay, with wichard tensioners €2.450

(excl furler, sail and deckgear)

Removable furling Selden unit to fit inner jib, code-O and

gennaker, including sails, make Doyle €16.500

Spinnaker equipment w/jib boom, stored at mast €2.850

Upgrade to 2 electrical winches, size 50, Harken €2.130

Windvane self steering: Windpilot Pacific €4.465

SAIL PACKAGES DOYLE

Cruising Laminate radial cut package €9.225

  • Mainsail
  • Furling Genoa 125%
  • Cutter jib 23,5m2

Hydranet Radial High performace package €13.975

  • Mainsail
  • Furling Genoa 110%
  • Cutter jib 23,5m2


Disclaimer

The Company offers the details of this vessel in good faith but cannot guarantee or warrant the accuracy of this information nor warrant the condition of the vessel. A buyer should instruct his agents, or his surveyors, to investigate such details as the buyer desires validated. This vessel is offered subject to prior sale, price change, or withdrawal without notice.


Tuesday, October 17, 2017

Over 40 Mosquito Bite Itch Relief Tips : TipNut.com

Read article : Over 40 Mosquito Bite Itch Relief Tips : TipNut.com

It’s mosquito season and I have buffalo sized ones zipping around the backyard as I type this.

ExamplesThanks to their first feast on my ankles tonight and an earlier comment from Kim, I was inspired to dig through every tip I had regarding mosquito bites and relief from the itching. Scritch Scratch.

I haven’t tried most of the suggestions below, but I’ll note which ones have worked for me.

Here are more than 40 tips organized in one neat file, each bullet point is a single method:

Household Items:

  1. Rub a bar of soap over the itch. I just tried this (Ivory soap) and the relief was near instant. I used a dry bar of soap directly on the skin, but I also have notes that you can spritz with water first and then run bar of soap over area–or use a wet bar of soap.
  2. Place a piece of scotch tape on the bite; or dab rubbing alcohol or ammonia on the area first then stick on a piece of tape.
  3. Hot water: Take a hot shower, or a hot bath, or apply a hot compress. As hot as you can stand it without burning you.
  4. Ice cube, ice pack or very cold water

Dabbers

The quicker you can apply one of the remedies below, the faster the relief. These are topical suggestions, apply directly to the area.

  1. Nail Polish
  2. Strong tea mixed with rubbing alcohol
  3. Toothpaste (works for me)
  4. Mouthwash
  5. Vinegar (apply directly or take a hot bath with 2 cups of vinegar in the water)
  6. Honey
  7. Underarm deodorant (solid or roll-on) – apply directly to skin
  8. Rubbing Alcohol
  9. Ammonia
  10. Bleach
  11. Tea: Use a hot tea bag or a cotton ball soaked in hot tea to dab on skin

Paste Applications

Mix these fresh then apply as soon as possible. The consistency should be nice and thick so it won’t run, yet will still stay in place on the affected area. You could also spritz bite with water then apply grains/powders directly (generously) and rub them in.

  1. Baking Soda & Water (works for me)
  2. Meat Tenderizer & Water
  3. Salt & Water (works for me)
  4. Epsom Salt & Water (could also do this as a foot soak if it’s the ankle/foot area affected)
  5. Tums Tablets: crush and add a few drops of water
  6. Aspirin: crush then add a few drops of water
  7. Aspirin – crush then apply a few drops of rubbing alcohol

Commercial Product Lotions, Creams & Applications

*Apply directly

  1. Calamine Lotion
  2. Benadryl Cream
  3. Orajel
  4. Anbesol
  5. Caladryl
  6. Vicks VapoRub (works for me)
  7. Preparation H (works for me)
  8. Lucas Papaw Ointment
  9. Tiger Balm
  10. Bag Balm
  11. Gold Bond Medicated Cream (or the Gold Bond Medicated Powder)
  12. Mylanta (heartburn relief product)
  13. After Bite

Essential Oils

Apply full strength. Edit: There are concerns about using essential oils on children and pre-teens, especially repeated use.

  1. Tea Tree Oil
  2. Lavender Oil
  3. Witch Hazel (astringent)
  4. Cedar Oil

Leaf Applications

*Crush the fresh leaves roughly then apply

  1. Basil
  2. Plantains (Plantago)

Fruity Applications

*Use fresh fruit & apply directly to skin

  1. Lemon Juice
  2. Lemon Slice
  3. Lime Juice
  4. Lime Slice
  5. Banana Peel (rub with the inside of the peel)

Whew! Big List! If I’ve missed your favorite remedy, please add them below.

Notes

  • If a remedy doesn’t provide fast relief, don’t despair. Give it another try, sometimes it will take 2 or 3 applications before it kicks in.
  • The itch is a reaction from the saliva of the mosquito that it injects into you as it feasts on your blood. There are several dozen different species and you may react to some species bites more than others.
  • If large swelling occurs (like welts), contact a doctor or pharmacist for suggestions (especially if it’s a child with a strong reaction). It could be an allergy to the bite. It’s important to watch the throat for swelling and get treatment asap.

Update: You’ll find tips on repelling mosquitoes here.

Published: June 14, 2007
Updated: September 8, 2012

Tuesday, May 9, 2017

The Herbal Medicated Bath – Naturopathic Doctor News and Review

Read article : The Herbal Medicated Bath – Naturopathic Doctor News and Review

Sussanna Czeranko, ND, BBE

Even three days after using the [pine needle] bandage, one can smell the rosin which is most agreeable. It is a theory of mine that when the system needs certain things, it can absorb them through the pores.

                                       Sebastian Kneipp, 1909, p.628

All herb baths are prepared in the same manner as the hayflower baths.

                                       Puderbach, 1927, p.282

Traces of turpentine are found in the urine after a hot bath containing the natural oil of pine which has entered the system through absorption or inhalation of vapor, or both.

                                       Elene, 1935, p.272

Baths of many types have been used for eons for purposes of health. The “bath” as a healthy and social dimension shows up often in the history and repertoire of Traditional Chinese Medicine, for example, and in many accounts of the splendid baths scattered throughout the Roman Empire (such as the “Theomoe” or warm baths of Diocletian), or the historical Vapor Baths of the Turks in Constantinople. However, the term “medicated bath” begins to appear as such and with more frequency in the 19th century. Cruchley’s 1834 history of London included details of bathing establishments throughout the city, such as Suffolk Place in Pall Mall, where one could find an “a very complete establishment of warm, cold, shower, vapour and general medicated baths” (Cruchley, 1834, p.169). T. S. Lambert’s Bathing and The Bath, published in 1845, was a delightful exegesis on “bathing and the bath, simple and medicated,” in which this early medical doctor differentiated between basic bathing and “medicated bathing.” John Bell, in his 1850 seminal work A Treatise on Baths, describes a bath using water other than fresh water or tap water. Bell writes, “Natural medicated baths are those furnished by the waters of mineral springs.” (Bell, 1850, p.615) The practice was long common that when mineral waters were not available, “medicated” baths were artificially created using minerals and salts to mimic Nature. Mineral bath was also a term used for baths that were enhanced with herbal decoctions such as pine extracts, equisetum, oat straw, hayflowers (see my May 2016 NDNR article, “The Head & Food Vapor Baths”), etc. Guy Hinsdale (1910) included herbs in the preparation of baths and other water applications, and called these “medicated” or “modified” baths. Not surprisingly, our early naturopathic pioneers were fully aware of this enhanced dimension of hydrotherapy.

Kneipp & Herbal Baths

Sebastian Kneipp is well recognized as a giant in the promotion of water cure. He was also profoundly interested in the use of plants, both for ingestion and to enhance his water applications. His combining of curative plants with water therapies was severely criticized by the extreme orthodox adherents of the hydrotherapy. (Platen, 1901, p.296) His 3 most used bath herbs included shave grass [Equisetum arvense], oat straw [Avena sativa] and hayflowers, or the dregs of a hay stack. Hayflowers was introduced by Kneipp as one of his celebrated herbal wonders, used for young children and the aged. Louisa Lust, following in the footsteps of Kneipp, also used herbs at her Butler Yungborn. She found that herbs used in baths were very beneficial for nervous people. She used “sage, hayflower, oak bark, pine needle, fenugreek, yarrow and others.” (Lust, 1911, p.231) After any of the herbal baths, Louisa Lust counsels the correct way to bring the water application to an end: “The [herbal] bath should always be wound up with a cool ablution, so as to close the pores and prevent cold.” (Lust, 1911, p.231)

John Bell’s mid-19th century work provides a recipe for an emollient bath using an herbal formula. He says, “An emollient bath is made by first taking althea, marshmallow, and elder flowers, or the pith of sassafras, and the bark of slippery elm, four pounds, and of flaxseed, half a pound; then tying them loosely in a cloth, and boiling the bag, add the decoction to the water of the bath.” (Bell, 1850, p.633)

To make Kneipp’s famed hayflower decoction, “a little [cloth] bag [is] filled with hay flowers, thrown into a pot of boiling water, and left there to infuse for at least fifteen minutes.” (Kneipp, 1891, p.38) The hayflower decoction was essentially left to steep until the desired dark coffee-like color was attained. Its property of opening up skin pores and promoting the elimination of morbid matter was much prized by Kneipp and others. Platen recounts Kneipp’s advice on the hayflower bath: “Kneipp advises taking the bath only once or twice a month and not to prolong a single bath beyond half an hour.” (Platen, 1901, p.558) Warm water applications always finished with cold water. Platen used alternating warm and cold water bathing. The herbal warm bath would last about 10 minutes and immediately followed by 5 or 6 seconds in a cold bath, and repeated 2 or 3 times. (Platen, 1901, p.558)

Warm Sitz Baths

Kneipp used herbal decoctions for warm water applications, and pure cold water was more than sufficient to achieve its therapeutic outcomes. In regards to a warm sitz bath, Kneipp asserts, “The warm sitz bath is never prepared of warm water alone, but according to my system is always mixed with some other ingredient.” (Kneipp, 1891, p.32) Equisetum was added to the sitz bath to treat “diseases of the bladder and kidneys, in gravel and stones complaints.” (Kneipp, 1891, p.33) Oat straw was used to treat gout and rheumatic conditions, and when Kneipp did not have access to these 2 herbs, he relied upon hayflowers. The sitz bath with hayflowers was a general treatment and was efficacious in cases of boils, constipation, hemorrhoids, and spasmodic pains such as colic. (Kneipp, 1891, p.33)

Foot Baths

Hayflower added to a bath such as a foot bath offered relief “in many foot complaints: open wounds, bruises, boils, putrefaction of the toes and suppuration of the nails.” (Kneipp, 1891, p.29)

Another one of Kneipp’s favorite herbs used in baths was oat straw. He describes the preparation: “The straw is boiled for half an hour, and then used as a foot bath from 20 to 30 minutes, at a temperature of from 88° to 91° F/31° to 33° C.” (Kneipp, 1891, p.29)

Equisetum was prepared much like the hayflowers – steeped for at least 15 minutes. The decoction used as a wash on “poisoned wounds… had a cleansing effect.” (Platen, 1901, p.472)

Gout

Friedrich E. Bilz, following in the footsteps of Sebastian Kneipp, used many of the same herbs in his herbal baths as his esteemed mentor. Bilz used a decoction made with pine needles for the treatment of gout. “Warm baths of 95° to 101° F/35° to 38° C with a decoction of pine sprigs or hayseed are also recommended.” (Bilz, 1898, p.780) For gout, the primary objective was to increase blood circulation, which hydrotherapy was excellent at producing. Bilz recommended the following gout protocol: “Three cold full washings a week, on first getting out of bed; or three knee gushes, two half baths of the upper body, and the warm hayflower shirt once, will probably command success.” (Bilz, 1898, p.780)

Making a strong decoction from the hayflowers, a compress would be soaked in it and applied while warm on “affected or swollen parts every two or three hours, [or] hayflower is scalded with hot water, enclosed in cloth and laid on the diseased part.” (Bilz, 1898, p.780)

The hydrotherapies were also complemented with herbal teas “of primroses, elder berries or elder blossoms several times a day. Gouty patients are also recommenced to continue for some time to drink a tea made of mouse ear [Hieracium pilosella].” (Bilz, 1898, p.780)

Pine Needle Baths

Kneipp also endorsed the use of pine needles for bathing. Used in a bath, the pine decoction provided benefits to the kidneys and bladder, and the skin epidermis was restored to health. (Kneipp, 1891, p.38) Kneipp also credited pine baths for strengthening the interior blood vessels, thereby making this “the proper bath for more aged people.” (Kneipp, 1897, p.65)

Kneipp favored using fresh pine needles for his water therapies. To make a pine needle bath, pine needles and branches were picked fresh or a distillation would be made. M. Platen provides instructions: “The pine needles are boiled for at least half an hour, and the decoction is then ready for use.” (Platen, 1901, p.472) The pine “extract, also called pine balsam is almost transparent, of a yellowish tinge at first, turning a greenish brown after standing some hours; has a pleasant, refreshing, bracing, resinous, aromatic smell.” (Platen, 1901, p.559) Compresses made from the decoction were strengthening and stimulating to the skin. (Platen, 1901, p.472)

In the July 1935 issue of Nature’s Path,another magazine published by Lust, the author of an article on the topic of pine needle oil, writes: “Pine oil is classified medicinally as a rubifacient, being slightly an irritant, and possesses feeble antiseptic properties. The irritant properties cause an unusual circulation of blood and thereby relieves congestions, eases pain, and quiets nervous tension.” (Elene, 1935, p.252, 270)   She warns against synthetic pine oils. “If the oil has been saponified or chemically combined with alkali, much of the effectiveness will have been lost. Artificial pine odors or scents have no therapeutic value in a bath.” (Elene, 1935, p.270)

John H. Kellogg placed the pine needle bath under the subheading of “Miscellaneous Baths” at the end of his voluminous book, Rational Hydrotherapy. Kellogg used pine needles to achieve the same reactions induced by the carbonic acid [or carbon dioxide] baths. The carbon dioxide bath, or the Nauheim bath, was popularized by many of the early hydrotherapists, such as Simon Baruch, Kellogg and Hinsdale. Carbon dioxide baths are still currently used extensively in European spas to treat heart disease, diabetes, rheumatic conditions, and obesity. Guy Hinsdale also used pine needle extract in combination with the effervescent carbon dioxide bath.

Kellogg states, “This [pine needle] bath produces powerful cutaneous stimulation. It is useful in chronic renal and cardiac disease, at a temperature of 92° to 94° F/33° to 34° C and may be used in the place of the effervescing baths.” (Kellogg, 1903, p.955) Among the benefits of the pine bath, Platen included “scrofula, gout, rheumatism, paralysis, debility, skin complaints, abdominal and sexual disorders.” (Platen, 1901, p.559) Pine baths improved the functions of the emunctories, such as the kidneys, gastrointestinal tract, and the skin.

Puderbach agreed with Platen that a 30-minute pine needle bath was beneficial for rheumatism, and suggested the “temperature should be high for rheumatic ailment (40° C/104° F).” (Puderbach, 1925, p.154) Puderbach also used the pine needle bath for nervous conditions at lower temperatures, of 28° C/82° F for 20 minutes. (Puderbach, 1925, p.154)

Elene recommended the pine bath for insomnia. A hot pine bath “taken before retiring will induce a quiet restful sleep without resorting to medicines or drugs.” (Elene, 1935, p.270, 272) She states, “When a person is fatigued and tired a cool pine bath has an exceptional bracing tonic effect.”

Hinsdale used pine needle essential oil in steam baths, and patients were steamed for 20 to 30 minutes in a steam cabinet, which caused profuse perspiration. (Hinsdale, 1910, p.309) After the steam bath, patients were massaged. Hinsdale also used pine needle extract in a medicated bath using 2 ounces of the extract to a 40-gallon bath. (Hinsdale, 1910, p.309)

  1. Puderbach in 1925 wrote The Massage Operator, which was published by Benedict Lust. Puderbach was the director of the Brooklyn Massage Training School. His book was essentially a physical therapy manual. Every conceivable physical therapy was outlined in his book. Throughout the years of Benedict Lust’s journals, numerous ads appeared with pine constituents for the pine bath. Puderbach alludes to one of these products – Novopin – which was a pine salt. Instructions for a bath using this salt: “For a tub bath take a full tube of this salt. The temperature of the bath should be 28° to 30° C/ 82° to 86° F. The bath should last 20 to 30 minutes.” (Puderbach, 1925, p.154) Another method that Puderbach suggests for taking the pine bath: “For a tub bath take a large spoonful of pine needle extract, dissolve in a pail of boiling water, and pour this solution into the prepared bath, or take one or two spoonfuls of pine oil, dissolve this in 100 grams pure alcohol and add to the bath.” (Puderbach, 1925, p.154)

Pine needle baths could irritate the skin, thus Puderbach advised that those patients experiencing itching of skin be removed from the bath immediately and given a shower. A rice powder was applied to the itching areas. (Puderbach, 1925, p.154)

A Valuable Legacy

These remarkable Naturopaths and their predecessors have left us a superb legacy of treatment protocols and success stories so valuable for patients. In our era of polypharma and a compromised food supply and distribution system, these wonderful natural approaches to healing are timeless. Kneipp, Kellogg, Bilz, Elene, Hinsdale, Puderbach and other giants have left us with outstanding tools. All we need do is use them.


Czeranko_Headshot_2014Sussanna Czeranko ND, BBE, incorporates “nature-cure” approaches to primary care by including balneotherapy, breathing therapy, and nutrition into her naturopathic practice. Dr Czeranko is a faculty member working as the Rare Books curator at NCNM and is currently compiling a 12-volume series based upon Benedict Lust’s journals, published early in the last century. Her published books include: Origins of Naturopathic Medicine; Philosophy of Naturopathic Medicine; Dietetics of Naturopathic Medicine; Principles of Naturopathic Medicine; Vaccination and Naturopathic Medicine; and Physical Culture in Naturopathic Medicine. Dr Czeranko is the founder of the Breathing Academy, a training institute for naturopaths to incorporate a scientific model of breathing therapy called Buteyko into their practice. She is also a founding board member of the International Congress of Naturopathic Medicine and a member of the International Society of Medical Hydrology.

References

Bell, J. (1850). A Treatise on Baths. Philadelphia, PA: Barrington and Haswell, pp. 658.

Bilz, F. E. (1898). The Natural Method of Healing. Leipzig, Germany: F. E. Bilz Publishing, pp. 2065.

Cruchley, G. F.(1834). Cruchley’s Picture of London. 2nd Ed. London, England: G. F. Cruchley Publishers.

Elene. (1935). The soothing pines. Nature’s Path. New York, NY: Benedict Lust Publishing, XXXX (7), 252, 270, 272.

Hinsdale, G. (1910). Hydrotherapy.Philadelphia, PA: W. B. Saunders Company Publishing, pp. 466.

Kellogg, J. H. (1903). Rational Hydrotherapy.Philadelphia, PA: F. A. Davis Company Publishers, pp. 1193.

Kneipp, S. (1891). My Water Cure.London, England: William Blackwood and Sons Ltd, pp. 272.

Kneipp, S. (1897). My Water Cure.Authorized American Edition translated from the 118th German Edition. Kempten, Bavaria: Jos Koesel Publisher, pp. 393.

Kneipp, S. (1909). Bandages and compresses. The Naturopath and Herald of Health,XIV (10), 624-632.

Lambert, T. S. (1845). Bathing and the Bath, Simple and Medicated: Its History, Effect and Mode of Application. Troy, New York: J. C. Kneeland Press.

Lust, L. (1911). Water cure, water applications. The Naturopath and Herald of Health,XXI (4), 231, 233.

Platen, M. (1901). The New Curative Treatment of Disease. London, England: Bong & Co, pp. 1579.

Puderbach, M. (1901). The Massage Operator. Butler, NJ: Dr. Benedict Lust Publishing, pp. 180.

Puderbach, P. (1927). Medicinal baths and their preparation. Naturopath,XXXII (5), 243-246.