9 Most Romantic B&B’s in Georgia for a Much-Needed Getaway

Read article : 9 Most Romantic B&B’s in Georgia for a Much-Needed Getaway

If you’re looking for more than just a place to sleep when you travel, consider staying at more B&Bs. There are lots of charming B&Bs in Georgia that offer personalized service, Southern hospitality, and a local perspective. Whether you’re celebrating something special or just looking to get away for a weekend with someone you love, here are the most romantic B&Bs to stay at in Georgia.

The Twelve Oaks Bed & Breakfast

Twelve Oaks Bed and Breakfast, Covington (Prices & Photos)

The movie, Gone with the Wind, inspired this lovely Antebellum home that was built in 1836. You can stop by for a tour of the home, or better yet, book an overnight reservation in the mansion. It has been featured in many publications and books and was renovated in 2012 with modern conveniences. Now you can expect to find luxurious spa tubs, remote control fireplaces, Wi-Fi, and even rib cage showers in the grand suites. In the morning, you’ll enjoy a locally sourced Southern breakfast, and there’s also a Southern Sippin’ and Nibblin’ Hour in the evenings. Covington, Georgia has been called the “Hollywood of the South” because so many movies and TV shows have been filmed here.

Catherine Ward House Inn

Catherine Ward House Inn, Savannah (Prices & Photos)

This is an 1880s home that truly embodies Southern charm in Savannah’s Victorian District. You’ll find intricately designed styles of architecture both inside and out, with nine guest rooms to stay in. Each room has its own personality, and the B&B is just a short walk away from Savannah’s iconic Forsyth Park. It’s easy to walk to all the local restaurants and shops from here too. The home has been recently renovated with luxurious bathroom features, and breakfast is served daily from 8:30am to 9:30am. High-speed Wi-Fi is offered for guests at no charge, and free street parking is available on the B&B’s quiet residential street.

Chanticleer Inn Bed and Breakfast

Chanticleer Inn Bed and Breakfast, Lookout Mountain (Prices & Photos)

Another wonderfully romantic B&B in Georgia is the Chanticleer Inn Bed and Breakfast. It is about 10 minutes from downtown Chattanooga, Tennessee and an ideal home base to visit local attractions, like Rock City, Ruby Falls, and the Incline Railway. You can also get outside and active while staying here, thanks to the hiking and biking trails nearby. The Inn is set atop Lookout Mountain and offers lovely views of the Chattanooga Valley down below. Included amenities include a full homemade breakfast, evening cookies and desert, an in-ground pool, and bocce ball court. The guest rooms have private baths, and some have individual outdoor patios too. Romantic packages offered include champagne, truffles, seasonal flowers, chocolate-covered strawberries, and spa services.

Lucille’s Mountain Top Inn and Spa

Lucille’s Mountain Top Inn and Spa, Sautee Nacoochee (Prices & Photos)

Located in Sautee Nacoochee, this is a luxury B&B with a day spa that’s located high on top of a mountain. The Spa at Lucille’s offers day spa services and is adjoined to the B&B inn. Typical gourmet breakfast offerings include creme brûlée French toast with minted strawberries, asparagus and goat cheese quiche, and Applewood smoked bacon. There are lots of wineries nearby to explore, as well as adventure activities like hot air balloon rides, zip lining, horseback riding, and waterfall hikes. Make sure to time to the top of the Crow’s Nest before sunset for awesome views of the Sautee Valley and mountains. Romantic add-ons include champagne, a dozen roses, and a bottle of wine waiting for you upon check-in.

Beachview Bed & Breakfast

Beachview Bed and Breakfast, Tybee Island (Prices & Photos)

Tybee Island is a fun place to visit with your sweetheart, especially if you stay at the Beachview Bed & Breakfast. There are eight guest rooms here that each have their own distinctive décor. The Presidential Suite and the Love Shack are favorites among couples. This is also a dog-friendly establishment, so feel free to bring your pup along! You’ll enjoy farm-to-table cuisine for breakfast and dessert before bedtime. Since this is a commercial B&B, you can even buy a glass or bottle of beer or wine to take back to your room.

Long Mountain Lodge Bed & Breakfast

Long Mountain Lodge Bed and Breakfast Inn, Dahlonega (Prices & Photos)

Dahlonega is another ideal getaway destination for lovers because of all the wineries and outdoor adventure opportunities here. The Long Mountain Lodge is both upscale and rustic, located near the Chattahoochee National Forest and close to the Appalachian Trail. Most of the B&B rooms have a wood-burning fireplace, private entrances, and jetted tubs. B&B guests will also enjoy delicious full, three-course breakfasts, which are served in the main lodge. Some of the favorite dishes here include blueberry pancakes, egg puffs, sausage, and home-fried potatoes.

Spencer House Inn

Spencer House Inn Bed and Breakfast, St. Mary’s (Prices & Photos)

Head to the historic district of St. Mary’s, Georgia for a quaint place to stay near Cumberland Island National Seashore. The history of the Spencer House Inn B&B dates back to 1872 and provides a coastal retreat that’s brimming with romance. There are 14 guest rooms here, some with clawfoot soaking tubs and others with traditional showers and tubs. A full breakfast is served each morning, and guests enjoy peace iced tea and treats in the afternoons. For a touch of romance, you can arrange for breakfast in bed, wine or champagne in the room, or a seasonal flower arrangement.

Stonehurst Place Bed & Breakfast

While many of these B&Bs are in remote and rural parts of Georgia, Stonehurst is a great city B&B right here in the heart of Atlanta.  This is a 19th-century Midtown mansion that values both modern amenities and historical preservation. There are elegant six rooms and suites here, as well as landscaped gardens a front parlor with a grand parlor, and a relaxing porch. It’s easy to check out the city’s top attractions, like Piedmont Park and the Fox Theatre, when you stay at Stonehurst.

1842 Inn

1842 Inn Bed and Breakfast, Macon (Prices & Photos)

One of the most romantic spots to stay in Macon is the 1842 Inn Bed and Breakfast, which was built in 1842 by John Gresham. With a significant display of Greek revival architecture, this inn has 19 guest rooms, as well as hospitality parlors and a courtyard. Breakfast is served each morning, and complimentary hors d’ oeuvres and beverages are served at daily evening hospitality hours. Order a mint julep at the cash bar and relax in one of the four public parlors after a day of sightseeing around Macon.

I vacationed at the East Coast’s quintessential rest stop. It’s more inviting than it looks.

Read article : I vacationed at the East Coast’s quintessential rest stop. It’s more inviting than it looks.

Breezewood caters to all motorists, but the town is especially trucker-friendly. In the half-mile strip, drivers find two truck stops, both with laundry facilities and showers. (Melanie D.G. Kaplan/For The Washington Post)

I expected to live my entire life without price-shopping for truck-stop showers. Then I spent the night in Breezewood.

The adventure began last August when my main squeeze James and I drove to Colorado. We passed through Breezewood, Pa., as do many drivers heading to the Rust Belt and beyond.

“What do you think about vacationing here for a week,” James asked. I laughed loudly and dismissed the idea.

If you’ve been there, you understand why. Breezewood has been a travel hub for centuries. It was a stagecoach stop in the late 1700s and then became a stop on the Lincoln Highway, America’s first cross-country road. The Pennsylvania Turnpike opened in 1940, and thousands of World War II veterans exited at Breezewood, stopping at what now is the Gateway Travel Plaza to trade their unit patches for meals. Today, motorists driving between I-70 and the turnpike are forced off the highway and onto a congested half-mile stretch of expensive gas stations, fast-food joints, truck stops and motels. That’s what people do in Breezewood, I thought. Get a quick caffeine fix, then refuel and get back on the road. They don’t sleep there.

“I’m game,” I said last summer, accepting James’s challenge. “But only for one night.”

By the time we finally rolled into town last month, I was excited about our adventure.

I had learned about Pike 2 Bike, a graffiti-covered, crumbling section of the original four-lane turnpike that was abandoned 50 years ago after the two-lane tunnels became bottlenecks. We packed bike shorts and were ready to explore. But on our first day, I was determined to walk up and down the Breezewood strip, U.S. Route 30, to better understand this town people love to hate.

Crawford’s Museum, which once displayed hundreds of taxidermied animals, is now a sports souvenir store filled with Pittsburgh Steelers tchotchkes. (Melanie D.G. Kaplan/For The Washington Post)

In the shadow of prominently placed no-pedestrian signs, we set off single file, along the shoulder — looking like hobos — and scuttled across intersections between groaning semis.

During our stroll down the strip, where 18-wheelers often outnumber four-wheelers, James and I counted close to a dozen vacant buildings, including a former Wendy’s and KFC. We wandered around an empty, weed-filled motel lot; inside a chain-link fence sat a pool filled with brown water. Several businesses pleaded for workers. Taco Bell’s sign made me smile: “Need a job? Come taco bout it.”

Among the newest properties was the Holiday Inn Express, which sold in its lobby Hungry Man frozen dinners, build-your-own six packs of beer and a snow globe of Pennsylvania covered bridges. The busiest place (and our lunch spot) was Sheetz, in front of the touch-screen kiosks that facilitate made-to-order food.

At the Gateway — where you can see displays of the soldiers’ patches — we popped into the gift shop, and I bought a miniature license plate with my name on it, skipping “The Complete Venison Cookbook.” Upstairs, we found a laundromat and arcade, and a quiet lounge for truckers that offered complimentary Bibles in Spanish.

Having passed Crawford’s Museum many times, I was hopeful about finding some culture in town. Alas, we discovered that the museum sign is simply a leftover from the building’s days of exhibiting taxidermied animals. Today, it’s a sports souvenir shop — offering a frenzy of Pittsburgh Steelers tchotchkes. Some of the animal displays remain, cohabitating in this odd space. A Kodiak bear stands on his hind legs in the sale section; some of his claws were plucked out over the years. An elephant’s head rests on the back wall, its ears splayed, tusks stretching out over the baseball caps.

Before dinner, we left town, driving past farms and orchards, and slowing for bunnies scampering across the road. We stopped at a half-dozen covered bridges just long enough for selfies and found Gravity Hill, an optical illusion that makes cars look like they’re rolling uphill. (It was underwhelming to one of us and delightful to the other.)

That night at the Quality Inn Breeze Manor, a tidy hilltop motel, I found a walking path to the truck-service station, which was lit up like a ballfield. One truck carried 10 colorful Mini Coopers, another logs, another FedEx packages. Standing on a knoll, I watched the endless parade of trucks and was enthralled while listening to their strange noises until bed beckoned.

The next morning, we enjoyed a large and healthy breakfast at the 1788 Inn, a newly renovated bed-and-breakfast just beyond the strip — but not far enough away to escape the constant din of rumbling trucks. Fueled up for biking, we drove to the start of the Pike 2 Bike trail and met Murray Schrotenboer, a gray-bearded entrepreneur who runs Grouseland Tours and has been riding the abandoned section of turnpike for nearly 20 years.

The 1788 Inn, recently renovated with fireplaces in every bedroom, was once a stagecoach stop. (Melanie D.G. Kaplan/For The Washington Post)

Under overcast skies, our small group set off. We pedaled at a comfortable pace, with gentle climbs and descents, and Schrotenboer narrated a history of the route starting with William Vanderbilt and a failed railroad project. In the old turnpike median, weeds grew to shoulder height and butterflies darted around wildflowers. Nature was repossessing its land. Locals describe it as post-apocalyptic.

We rode single file through two tunnels — dank, foggy, pitch black stretches, one more than a mile long. Condensation made the interior drippy, in some places like a waterfall. Our headlights shone cones of visibility through the dark droplets of water.

“We’re 400 feet underground,” Schrotenboer said, reminding us that we were under a mountain. We pulled over in an empty asphalt lot and he pointed to some trees. “This was once a Howard Johnson and Esso Station.”

On the return, we passed a dozen other cyclists, including a family of six driving between York and Pittsburgh. Schrotenboer, who stopped us often for stories, pointed out the spots where parts of movies “The Road” and “Zombie eXs” were shot. At one of the tunnel entrances, he unlocked a door and led us to the former control, boiler and ventilation rooms for the tunnel. This surreal steampunk hideaway is accessible only on Schrotenboer’s tour (although trespassers have found a way in), and I considered that alone worth the price. We walked by a fan the size of a jet engine, covered in bright graffiti, and continued about 150 feet into the gritty plenum, or attic, of the tunnel. Echoes bounced eerily back to the entrance.

The Pike 2 Bike trail along an abandoned section of the Pennsylvania Turnpike passes through two tunnels, one longer than a mile. (Melanie D.G. Kaplan/For The Washington Post)

After our five-hour, 17-mile tour, we were mud-splattered and sweaty. Inconveniently, we had checked out of our motel that morning. The previous day, we had learned that showers at the Gateway cost $14. (“Pricey,” I had muttered.) I suggested that we check out the less-spiffy Flying J across the street. Sure enough, that saved us $2. I bought a shower pass from the cashier, walked to the basement and keyed in a code at the assigned room. Easy as pie.

With that, our Breezewood adventure was over. Driving out of town, I saw Bob Evans, Shell, Best Western and a fluttering Stars and Stripes in my rearview mirror. In less than a mile, we were driving through green, rolling hills. I thought about the world we’d made — the crumbling facades, the abandoned highway, the declawed bear — and watched trucks across the median speeding toward a momentary stop in a strange yet utterly American town.

Kaplan is a freelance writer based in the District. Her website is melaniedgkaplan.com. Find her on Twitter: @MelanieDGKaplan.

Where to stay

The 1788 Inn

16200 Lincoln Hwy., Breezewood

814-626-1788

the1788inn.com

The Federal-style 1788 Inn is run by delightful hosts who care deeply about renovation and history. Each room has a fireplace and private bath with heated floor. Rooms from $125, including full breakfast; call ahead for a la carte breakfast at $25 for two.

Quality Inn Breeze Manor

16621 Lincoln Hwy., Breezewood

814-735-4311

choicehotels.com

Located on the Breezewood strip, the motel is a quarter-mile from the Pike 2 Bike trail. The Quality Inn has basic rooms, a clean outdoor pool, free continental breakfast, a view of the truck-service plaza and a black Labrador greeter named Sadie. Rooms from $119.

Where to eat

Mother Trucker’s Cafe

167 Posthouse Rd., Breezewood

814-735-4076

mothertruckerscafe.com

Located in the Flying J Travel Plaza, Mother Trucker’s is one of the few non-fast options in Breezewood, although fast it is. Cafeteria-style sides start at $2.36, including mac and cheese, cabbage and blueberry cobbler. Dinner plates, including with ham pot pie and pork sauerkraut, cost $9.43.

Horn O Plenty

220 Wolfsburg Rd., Bedford

814-623-0522

myhornoplenty.com

A short detour from the covered-bridge tour, this farm-to-table restaurant is the antithesis of the Breezewood strip — a beautiful, natural setting with organically grown ingredients. Homemade sourdough and condiments, wood-fired pizza and entrees such as quinoa cakes and stuffed peppers, starting at $16. Open 11 a.m.-8 p.m. Tuesday-Thursday, 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Friday-Saturday and 10 a.m.-2 p.m. Sunday. Closed Mondays.

What to do

Pike 2 Bike Behind the Scenes Guided Tours

Lincoln Highway (U.S. Route 30)

814-784-5000

pike2bike.com

Murray Schrotenboer’s Grouseland offers 17-mile bike tours along the abandoned highway and through its tunnels, as well as otherwise inaccessible parts of the turnpike, such as the control room. Ride and tour last three to five hours, or add on for a deluxe tour with a hike. One rider, $95; two, $110; three or more, $45 per person. Rental Cannondale bikes are available. If you venture out on your own, make sure to bring lights and water.

Covered Bridges of Bedford County Tour

Bedford County Visitors Bureau

814-623-1771

visitbedfordcounty.com/coveredbridges

Download a copy of this 100-minute driving tour or call for a brochure and map. The county has 14 century-old, hand-built covered bridges, nine of which are on the loop. Be sure to visit nearby Gravity Hill, an optical illusion where your car appears to roll uphill.

Bedford County Bike Loops

Bedford County Visitors Bureau

814-623-1771

visitbedfordcounty.com/biking

The county website has five printable maps of bike loops with lengths of 16 to 42 miles. Loops are generally rolling hills with light traffic and some good climbs. The rides pass farms, orchards and covered bridges.

End of the Road Marathon
and Half Marathon

Forbes Road High School

159 Red Bird Dr., Waterfall

pike2bike.com/event

Bring your flashlight or headlamp for this race. Held Oct. 29, the marathon route follows the abandoned turnpike, with water stop volunteers dressed in apocalypse-themed attire. Be prepared for rough patches, potholes and several miles inside the abandoned tunnels.

Information

visitbedfordcounty.com

M.K.

27 restaurants, pubs and cafes in Bath offering meal deals for a tenner for Great Bath Feast

Read article : 27 restaurants, pubs and cafes in Bath offering meal deals for a tenner for Great Bath Feast

Treat yourself to a £10 meal at one of Bath’s amazing eateries this Autumn.

As part of the Great Bath Feast, restaurants, pubs and cafes across the city are serving up delicious meals for a bargain.

Whether you are into pies and pints, tea and scones or fine dining, there is something here to suit all taste buds.

1. 3 Café Kitchen

Three Ways School, 180 Frome Road, Bath, BA25RF

3 Café Kitchen will be serving up a large sharing platter including seasonal salads, terrines and tarts with a slow cooked roast and the café’s famous scones. All their food is locally sourced and home cooked.

This newly opened café offers young work experience and training to young people with special needs.

5.30 and 8pm sittings; visit website for full opening hours.

2. The Abbey Hotel

1-3 North Parade, Bath, BA1 1LF

The Abbey Hotel

Relax with a glass of house wine or beer served with two delicious bar snacks (salt cod croquettes, scotched quail’s eggs & salt and pepper squid and) at The Abbey Hotel’s stylish ArtBar.

Please quote ‘Tenner Treat’ when ordering.

3. Bailbrook House Hotel

Eveleigh Avenue, Bath, BA1 7JD

Indulge in a hearty roast dinner and a drink in the Cloisters Restaurant at Bailbrook House Hotel for £10 per person. Booking essential.

4. Bailbrook House Hotel

Eveleigh Avenue, Bath, BA1 7JD

Somerset Cream Tea for two people for £10 (usual price £8.95 per person) at Bailbrook House Hotel. Booking essential.

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5. Bath Pizza Co

Green Park Station, Bath, BA1 1JB

£10 will get you a get a pizza and drink (pint of beer, glass of Prosecco, or a soft drink.)

6. The Bath Pub Tour

Crystal Palace, 10 – 11 Abbey Green, Bath, BA1 1NW

Sample ales, ciders & historic gastro-snacks on The Bath Pub Tour. £10 for two participants. Pickled egg prizes have been promised!

7. Belushi’s

9 Green Street, Bath, BA1 2JY

You can’t go wrong with this one. A Belushi’s Burger and drink for £10.

8. The Boater

9 Argyle Street, Bath, BA2 4BQ

Potty about pies? The Boater will be serving up a pie (different ones every day) and a pint of London Pride for £10 from 12noon-9pm every day throughout the entire duration of The Great Bath Feast.

Veggie option/alternative soft drink are available as part of the same deal.

9. Bookbarn International (Full Stop Cafe)

Unit 1, Hallatrow Business Park, Wells Rd, High Littleton, Bristol BS39 6EX

Get two Classic British ‘Ploughman’s’ for just £10 in this lovely book café.

This rural gem make their own jam and chutney as well as cakes, soups and salads.

No booking necessary, served all day.

10. CAU Bath

1-2 Milsom Place, Bath, BA1 1BZ

Live on the wild side with a brunch-time Mimosa cocktail and a brunch dish for a tenner.

Served 9am-12noon every day throughout The Great Bath Feast.

11. Chez Dominique

15 Argyle Street, Bath, BA2 4BQ

(Image: pexels)

Cornish mussels in a cider, leek and Alsace bacon broth, paired with an 175ml glass of Jean de Laroche Sauvignon Blanc for £10. Close your eyes and you could be in France…

Terms and Conditions: offer available Monday–Friday lunchtimes and Monday–Thursday evenings, 5:30pm–7pm.

Upgrade your Tenner Treat to include a glass of Prosecco by presenting your LUX Rewards card on arrival!

12. The Clifton Sausage

5 Bladud Buildings, The Paragon, Bath, BA1 5LS

The Clifton Sausage

Spoil yourself with a trio of gourmet sausages (Bath Blue cheese & leek, Clifton and Old Spot Pork) served with creamy mash and homemade gravy. A glass of wine or a soft drink is thrown in for £10.

Upgrade your Tenner Treat to include a glass of Prosecco by presenting your LUX Rewards card on arrival!

13. Coffee2Go

500 Wellsway, Bath, BA2 2UD

Two large coffees, two meals with toppings, and four snacks (crisps or flapjacks) for £10.

14. Combe Grove

Brassknocker Hill, Bath, BA2 7HU

Devour a top-notch 2-course lunch and enjoy the breathtaking views across the rolling Limpley Stoke Valley hills.

15. Garfunkel’s

The Empire, Orange Grove, Bath, BA1 1LP

Family favourites burgers, rotisserie chicken and wraps plus yummy puds will be on offer at The Empire. 2 courses for £10. Perfect venue for the whole family.

16. The Garrick’s Head

St Johns Place, Bath, BA1 1ET

Nosh to make you happy. A hot salt beef roll and a pint of Garrick’s Head ale is yours for just £10.

17. Giraffe World Kitchen

8 Dorchester Street, Bath, BA1 1SS

Lovely liquids here. £10 will get you a bottle of house wine to share, two scrumptious cocktails or four Coronas. Available Sunday – Friday 17.00-23.00

18. Graze Bath

9 Brunel Square, Bath, BA1 1SX

All Hail the Ale! Grab Handcrafted pie are made with Bath Ales’ seasonal Forest Hare ale and a Bath Ales pint for £10.

19. Hilton Bath City Hotel

Walcot Street, Bath, BA1 5BJ

Enjoy the elegant side of Bath with afternoon tea at the Hilton Bath City Hotel.

Served in the renowned Atelier Restaurant, the views of Bath’s historic Pulteney Bridge will ensure you have the best seat in the house.

20. Jamie’s Italian

10 Milsom Place, Bath, BA1 1BZ

Glass of red and a pizza at Jamie’s for £10. Delizioso!

21. The Mint Room

Longmead Gospel Hall, Lower Bristol Road, Bath, BA2 3EB

Cool, contemporary and chic, enjoy a lunch & drink at Bath’s popular Indian restaurant The Mint Room.

Upgrade your Tenner Treat to include a glass of Prosecco by presenting your LUX Rewards card on arrival!

22. Newton Farm Shop

Newton St Loe, Bath, BA2 9BT

Are chutneys, pickles and preserves your bag? Local producers In a Pickle are offering three jars for £10. Enjoy the free samples to help you pick your favourites!

23. The Pump Room

Stall Street, Bath, BA1 1LZ

A visit to the historic The Pump Room is always a treat but have you ever been there for brunch? Wake up to a Bucks Fizz Breakfast: your choice of Eggs Benedict or Eggs Florentine accompanied by a glass of Bucks Fizz for £10

Running from 9.30am-11.45am every day throughout the entire duration of The Great Bath Feast.

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24. Robert Welch Designs*

6 Broad Street, Bath, BA1 5LJ

Stylish and sleek, Robert Welch Signature Stainless Steel Kitchen Utensils will be on offer for only £10 (representing a saving of £6 off the RRP) throughout The Great Bath Feast.

25. The Roman Baths Kitchen

Abbey Churchyard, 
Bath, BA1 1LY

Roman Baths Kitchen

Located in the beautiful Abbey churchyard in Bath, The Roman Baths Kitchen are serving up two courses for £10 from 12noon-close every day throughout the The Great Bath Feast.

26. The Salamander

3 John Street, Bath, BA1 2JL

Two pub sandwiches for just £10 in one of Bath’s coziest pubs.

27. San Francisco Fudge Factory

6 Church Street, Abbey Green, Bath, BA1 1NL

Fancy fudge and a glass of Prosecco al-fresco-style all for a tenner.
Terms and Conditions: offer available Monday-Friday only.

The Great Bath Feast will be running from Saturday September 23 to Sunday, October 8.

California Dreamin' Part II: From San Jose to Big Sur, Spending Only $51 a Day

Read article : California Dreamin' Part II: From San Jose to Big Sur, Spending Only $51 a Day

Created with Admarket's flickrSLiDR.

Getting away from the big city isn't always easy, but the proximity of the magnificent beauty of Big Sur to the major metropolises of California makes it an ideal and popular weekend drive.

Getting There

There's no point in poking around San Jose, so speed on down to the Monterey-Carmel area on US 101 to Prunedale, then westward on 156 to Seaside, where you join the Pacific Coast Highway, Number 1. If you can tear yourself away from the delights of those two cities, start on down the highway, taking your time and stopping at as many turnouts or vistas as you can.

If you have time, return on the same marvelous routing, catching different views and vistas, the better to see the mist creeping in, or a sunset, or a day when the fog bank sits along the horizon like a very thick futon, creating an amazing wall a few miles out to sea. Should you be in a hurry, however, go on down Route 1 to Cambria, and then turn eastward on State 465 to Templeton, where you pick up speedy US 101 for your return trip north.

Highlights

The best weather here is in the spring and fall, the former being the time when wildflowers abound (especially lupines and poppies, as well as the tall purple cones called "the Pride of Madeira"). May is still peaceful, as the big summer season and the crowds begin in June, with warm weather and a chance even to dip into the rivers here. Indian summer and it's requisite marvelous fall colors, with poison oak showing deep red, the maples, sycamore, and cottonwoods their golden yellows and oranges, dutifully comes along late in September and throughout all of October. In mid-November, the season for fishing steelhead rainbow trout opens. Best of all, from the end of December through the entire month of March, you can watch migrating gray whales offshore as they traverse the route from sunny Baja California northward.

All the way down along scenic PCH1, the 90-mile stretch of Big Sur affords great views of the awesomely beautiful and rugged coastline between Carmel to the north and San Simeon to the south. The highway was completed in 1937 after 18 years of hard work, partly with the aid of convict labor. (They didn't even have electricity in these parts until the 1950s!) And although Highway One is well maintained, it has plenty of sharp curves and steep hills, so take it easy. Besides, if you drive too quickly, you won't have a chance to see the most beautiful coastline in the world, in the opinion of many experienced travelers.

If it's beach time you want, bring a blanket and a jacket, as it can be chilly, even in summer. You can get down to the Andrew Molera State Park beach, 23 miles south of Carmel, easily on a mile-long path paralleling the Big Sur River.

A cultural highlight of the drive is the Henry Miller Library, just one-fourth of a mile south of the Nepenthe restaurant on the mountainside of the road. Henry, who wrote his best-known work, Tropic of Cancer, in 1934, settled down in Big Sur (not at this building) in 1944, and wrote many other books here. This is not a library of books he collected, but of books by and about him, as well as other highly literary and experimental works for sale by other authors. It's open Thursdays through Sundays, 11 to 6 or by appointment. Phone the library at 831/667-2574 or visit the Web site, www.henrymiller.org.

Although Big Sur is as close to nature as you can get in America and still be on a highway, costs are typically high, thanks to the distance and scarcity of population. But with some digging, I've come up with lodging and three meals costing only $50.70 per person per day, sharing a double room.

Lodging

There are only 200 hotel rooms in all the Big Sur area, so pickings are slim. Except during winter, you might consider camping out when you get here. After all, that's what the whole region is about, getting back to nature in a meaningful manner. Should you decide you want to live in a tent or rustic cabin, check out the Big Sur Campground & Cabins, 26 miles south of Carmel on Route 1, phone 831/667-2322. In addition to empty sites, there are a few cabins, the tent variety costing only $12, the all-wood version going for $89 and up. The all-wood cabins have their own country-style furniture, woodburning ovens and complete kitchens, not to mention private patios.

The best-priced commercial lodging in the area is at the modest Ripplewood Resort, where there are cabins costing as little as $65 (double bed), $70 (queen), $75 (queen and double), up to $105 (queen and double, kitchen, deck, and fireplace). The cheaper cabins overlook the redwoods and the hills, while the more expensive are along the Big Sur River itself. All units have private bathroom with shower or tub. Just 27 miles south of Carmel, the resort is also the site of a wonderful cafe (breakfast and lunch only), a gas station (you can't imagine how helpful that is) and a grocery store (ditto). For reservations, phone 831/667-2242. Their Web site is www.ripplewoodresort.com.

The best little hotel in the region, in my opinion, is the Big Sur River Inn on Highway 1 at Pheneger Creek, Big Sur 93920. There are 20 rustic and cozy rooms with private baths ranging in price from $80 in winter, $90 in spring and fall to $100 in July and August. That's for a room with one queen bed. On weekends throughout the year, you pay the summer rate of $100. What's fun here is to sit in Adirondack chairs in the shallow river, dangling your feet in the water, and drinking a beer. Above the iris and calla lilies along the banks, on the lawn between river and hotel, people relax over their food, and a jazz band plays on weekend afternoons. A throwback to the 1930s, the River Inn was once known at the Apple Pie Inn, having started as a restaurant back in 1934. It has been run by the same family (Pfeiffer and Ewoldsen) ever since. Contact the Inn at 831/557-1700 or 800/548-3610, fax 831/667-2743, Web site www.bigsurriverinn.com.

You can have your adobe hacienda and not pay big bucks for it if you stay at Glen Oaks, in the Big Sur River valley. All rooms are in single story structures, and each has a private bath and walk-in shower. You also have a patio, surrounded by flowers in season and a view of the valley. There's a good restaurant on the premises, too (see listings on the next page). A queen bedroom here costs $89, queen and twin $94, two queens $99. You can have a whole cottage to yourself for $125, with a kitchen $140, beyond our price range but doable if you have four persons sharing the costs. Contact the Glen Oaks at 831/667-2105, Highway 1, Big Sur 93920.

Moderately priced during the winter (at $89), the rooms at the Big Sur Lodge rise precipitously during the rest of the year, so I can recommend it only in the November-March period, when the weather can be wonderful. There are 61 huge cottage style units, each with deck or balcony. Some units can sleep up to six persons. Nestled among the marvelous towering redwoods and oaks inside the Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park, these units are a perfect place to get away from the apparent world and enjoy the real realm of nature. There are no phones, TVs, radios, or alarm clocks. There is a restaurant on the grounds, as well as a general store, and a seasonal heated pool. They're on Highway 1 at Big Sur, 93920, phone 831/667-3100 or 800/424-4787, Web site www.bigsurlodge.com. Rates here include the admission fee not only to this park but also to four others in the immediate area. That, in turn, allows you free use of the parks, including hiking and firing up the barbecue if you feel like it.

Alternatively, if you are really into nature, and want to stay at a Catholic monastery where you get absolute peace and quiet, you might like the New Camaldoli Hermitage, about 25 miles south of Big Sur Village at Lucia, where rooms go for a suggested donation of $45. You usually need to book six months in advance here! You need not participate in the liturgical worship, but you may if you wish. All rooms are single occupancy, each with half bath and a personal garden overlooking the ocean. There is also a room with several showers and a common kitchen where you pick up your mostly vegetarian meals, to eat by yourself in the garden or room. If you want a retreat house trailer, these, too, are available, with a full bathroom (shower, not tub!), small refrigerator, small countertop gas burner, and a sun deck. Suggested donation is $55. To keep the place quiet for the Benedictine monks, you cannot use radios, typewriters, or musical instruments, nor can you bring a pet. Phone the monks at 831/667-2456. They ask that you phone them, not e-mail them (unless you live overseas). Their Web site, however, is www.contemplation.com.

Restaurants

This is the perfect place to have a picnic, down on the beach or up above, just looking at the coastline. You can stock up on everything you could possibly need at Big Sur Center Deli, located at the Post Office Center, phone 831/667-2225. Open daily from 8 AM to 8:30 PM, the deli has takeout selections of prepared food items for all three meals (including fresh pizza on Monday and Friday evenings), as well as a good selection of groceries, wine, beer, and soft drinks.

Big Sur River Inn, part of the hotel of the same name (see previous page), is a marvelously un-chic place, with quiet corners, tables out on the patio overlooking the river, or near the bar and its big sports-saturated TV screen. Breakfast starts at $5.75 for two eggs, hash browns, and toast; lunch menu items hover around $9.95 (the cheapest sandwich is $8.25), and dinner courses cost from $7.95 (omelets) through $8.95 (fish & chips) up to $17.95 for ribs. Open daily. Phone 831/667-2700.

At the Ripplewood Resort (see previous page), you can have two eggs with a potato casserole and a homemade muffin for just $5.75, or pay another dollar and have the same thing with sausage, bacon, or ham. At lunchtime, a grilled cheddar sandwich will set you back $4.50, a delicious grilled jack cheese and green chili one $5.75. All sandwiches (your choice of bread) come with tomatoes, sliced red onions, sliced pickles, lettuce, and mayonnaise, along side your choice of a green salad, marinated bean salad, or shoestring-cut french fries. They don't serve dinner. Phone 831/667-2242.

The Glen Oaks Restaurant is also part of the hotel of the same name (see previous page), with a copper fireplace and works of local artists, serving dinner only, open year round, but closed on Tuesdays. Dinner items start from $12.95 and range upward from there. Several entries on the otherwise standard menu are Asian inspired, and the pastas and bread are homemade. Wines from the California Central Coast are featured. Phone 831/667-2264 for reservations.

Deetjen's restaurant is in the hotel of the same name, with a cozy, country-inn feeling about the place. Two meals are served daily, with basic breakfasts at about $7.95, comfort-food dinner main courses from $12.95. Chicken with garlic is a local favorite. Phone the restaurant at 831/667-2377. The location is about 30 miles south of Carmel on Highway 1, Big Sur 93920.

Cafe Kevah is located just a level down from famed Nepenthe (see below) and owned by the same family. Its prices are slightly less than those up the stairs, a fajita dish costing 7.95, for instance. The view is almost as good that on the level above, but the ambiance is more utilitarian, the food (with several Mexican items on the menu) is as good, if not better. Since you'll be outside, even on a sunny day in fall, winter, or spring, be sure to bring a coat. In summer, never mind. The address is the same as Nepenthe, but the phone is 831/557-2344.

Nepenthe is not just a restaurant, but also the emotional center of Big Sur, almost since its beginnings back in 1949. It's at the top end of our price range for budgeters, but is well worth the visit. The ambiance is better than the high-priced and celebrated Ambrosiaburgers ($11.95), in fact. After you climb the long flights of stairs, you'll find the views magnificent. You may, if you are lucky, find seats at counters on the edge of the cliff, so that you look right out on the valley and ocean 808 feet below. This is the perfect place to have lunch, if only for the view. The restaurant, formerly owned by Orson Welles and Rita Hayworth, is a celeb favorite. Recent visitors include Brad Pitt and Jennifer Aniston, as well as Bill Gates Jr., and Oakland mayor and former California governor Jerry Brown. Movie fans will want to know that Liz Taylor and Richard Burton frequented this restaurant a lot when they filmed Sandpiper in the neighborhood way back in 1962. Location: On California 1, 28 miles south of Carmel, phone 831/667-2345.

Sunday Brunch

If you make it as far as the Hearst Castle, at the southern end of Big Sur, you might enjoy the Sunday brunch at the San Simeon restaurant in town, costing $12.95 for adults, $5.95 for children under 12. You can eat as much as you want at the salad bar, waffle bar, or omelet bar, partaking of country biscuits and gravy, roast beef, seafood, beef Stroganoff, and the like with a glass of champagne, too. Phone 805/927-4604.