Showing posts sorted by relevance for query installed multiple shower heads. Sort by date Show all posts
Showing posts sorted by relevance for query installed multiple shower heads. Sort by date Show all posts

Tuesday, May 16, 2017

11 Shower Heads For Your Master Bathroom

Read article : 11 Shower Heads For Your Master Bathroom
11 Perfect Shower Heads For Your Master Bathroom

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There is no better feeling in the world than coming home to a warm shower and having the water run along your face. Showers are supposed to be soothing. They are meant to make you forget work, soccer practice or reality TV. As such, given that the shower can do all the above, you better have the best shower head on the market.

Shower heads come in all shapes and sizes. Whether it’s a handheld, rainfall, dual or double shower head, it better take you to a place you can’t experience anywhere else in the home. The designs have greatly changed over the years and that is why I gathered 11 of the best shower head designs on the market.

If you're thinking about installing a new shower head, let us help you find reliable shower contractors near you!

Hand Held Shower Heads

Basic Shower Head

As you will see with the other shower heads mentioned in this article, many are made of chrome that give your shower the shiny and bright design all of us desire. This hand held shower head is part of a casual and comfortable shower surrounded by different sized tile. The shower head may have a small diameter, but homeowners can adjust the height while you wash your hair.

Thinking about upgrading or converting your tub into a more luxurious shower? See some of the costs involved with our shower installation cost estimator.

White Bathroom & Shower Head

As you can see in our next handheld shower head, they are many updates you can implement to make sure your shower experience is up there with the best. The silver shower fixtures are part of a traditional bathroom that is covered in white wall coverings. The shower head comes with an adjustable height feature, as well as multiple shower panels below. With this shower head system, you surely won’t miss a spot.

Bathroom

Dual Shower Heads

Dual Shower Head

This is one of my favorite shower heads as the traditional beauty features dual shower heads, slate tile all around, extra panels below the shower heads and a frameless shower door. Clearly, this shower was designed for two people, but I doubt anyone would complain about the extra space if they go at it alone.

If you are thinking of installing a glass shower door like you see here, see what it costs with our glass shower door cost estimator.

Rainfall Showers

Square Rainfall Shower Head

If there is one dominant theme in new shower design, it’s the idea of the rainfall shower. No matter where you look, more and more homeowners are asking for rainfall showers in their master bathrooms. After all, they are easy, relaxing and fast.

This contemporary shower features a walk-in shower with a square, silver rainfall shower head. The simple shower handle matches the design of the gray and white bathroom. The shower head is not as flashy as some of the rainfall shower heads below, but it enhances a shower experience like no other.

Outdoor Shower Head

Who said all great shower heads belong indoors? This courtyard shower added teak floors, tile backsplashes, a soap dish and of course, a large rainfall shower head.

Outdoor showers are often used to remove dirt or sand, but even so, that doesn’t mean you have to sacrifice your design creativity. As you can see, if weather permits, your outdoor shower can look as good as any in America.

Outdoor Bathroom Shower Head

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Now we are really stepping up our outdoor shower. These homeowners decided to go all out with an entire indoor-outdoor bathroom, complete with a luxurious inground tub, mosaic wall tile, glass doors, an outdoor shower with a stone floor and of course, a chrome, rainfall shower head.

No need to worry about privacy, as this outdoor shower is completely surrounded by a tall, stone wall and greenery. If you want to add an outdoor shower, make sure you know what plumbing costs come with it.

Multiple Shower Heads

As you have read, there is no one shower head fits all. Many showers and bathrooms demand more and therefore, installed multiple shower heads in their newly remodeled bathroom.

Multiple Shower Heads

Shower heads and bathrooms do not get more contemporary than this masterpiece with the massive rainfall shower head above and a smooth, thin handheld shower head below. The bathroom also highlights smooth, gray wall tile, stainless steel all around, a floating sink and tile flooring.

No matter your design preference, when you turn this amazing shower on, you’re in for an unforgettable shower experience.

Big Shower Head

I understand the size of this massive shower will not fit for most of our fans, but the shower head system is one that can go in any master bathroom. Two rainfall shower heads, a handheld option and multiple panels right in front highlight this frameless shower.

This brighter, international shower design also incorporated a built-in shower seat, recessed lights and a marble soaking tub.

Multiple Shower Heads and Bench

Many Americans don’t like to hold the shower head, but still want the experience of multiple water outlets. That is why this shower head combo is perfect with the wide rainfall shower above, dual shower heads on the side and a small shower head next to the corner seat. Despite the size of the smaller shower head, it would be hard to turn down those shower jets.

Front and Back Shower Heads

Dual, detachable shower heads made their way into this gorgeous shower remodel with marble shower walls, a rock shower floor and bronze fixtures all around. They added a small bench for comfort as well as multiple shower shelves for storage.

Modern and Industrial Bathroom

This simple modern shower design implemented both a small ceiling shower head, in addition to a handheld shower head near the shower bench. Overall, they did a great job of implementing a mix of modern and industrial design with the white tile and cement wall in front.

Conclusion

Shower heads come in all shapes and sizes. If you want to enhance your shower experience and establish that relaxing and soothing aroma every night, then you may want to install one of these 11 shower heads as part of your next bathroom remodel.

As always, make sure you talk to local bathroom remodeling pros before you take out your checkbook.

Wednesday, September 20, 2017

How to avoid mistakes when choosing a mixer

Read article : How to avoid mistakes when choosing a mixer

Как не ошибиться при выборе смесителя

The mixer is an important part of kitchen and bathroom, which directly affects our daily comfort. To verify this it is enough to recall their feelings when the faucet suddenly started to leak or even break. However, how to choose among the enormous diversity of models, especially if they want to save money and time and choose the mixer independently in the catalog online store? Let’s step by step walk through all the options that you should consider when choosing a mixer. Как не ошибиться при выборе смесителя The design of the mixers Any mixer is composed of standard structural components: body, spout, mechanism of mixing, control and aerator. The housing of the mixer can be molded or mobile. In the first case, the stationary housing is a mechanism of the spout, and the lever on the side of it. These faucets are reliable and easy to repair, but less convenient to operate. Swivel body allows for greater convenience and water savings, but may require periodic replacement of gaskets rotating part of the mechanism.
Spout or goose — this is the part of the faucet, from which water flows. When choosing a particular model, pay attention to the height of the spout (can be from 2 to 90 cm) and its length (3 to 5 cm). They should correlate with the dimensions of the tub or sink so that water is not hitting the boards, was not sprayed and you have enough space to wash dishes or hands. The aerator attaches to the tip of the spout and consists of a metal mesh through which water is mixed with air. The aerator makes the water pressure is more soft, uniform and comfortable. Как не ошибиться при выборе смесителя Different mechanisms of mixing water Depending on the design of the mixer may vary and the mechanism of mixing water in it. Should there be any doubt that this factor will significantly influence your comfort and his life Kran-buksa The usual inside valve mixer tap with two handles for temperature and water head is a device called a crane buxoi. It connects to the valve and directly responsible for the water supply. There are two basic types of crane-books: worm gear and ceramic. The mechanism of the worm tap-bushing is a screw, one end of which is connected with the valve and the other to a rod on which is fixed a strip of rubber. When rotating the crane, the screw moves along the thread inside the tap head parts, rubber gasket is moving around, opening or closing the water supply.
It is obvious that the rubber gasket in the process of operation will rapidly deteriorate, and although it is inexpensive, the trouble of regular changing pads is inevitable. Ceramic crane Bush is characterized by the presence of two ceramic disks, one of which is stationary and the other is attached to the stock. Rotation of the valve causes the alignment of the holes on the discs, the water flowing in the mixer, or displaces them and the water flow stops. This type of faucet head parts are more durable and easy to use, but are more expensive and sensitive to water quality, as even a small grain of sand between the discs could be damaged. In case of breakage, you will have to remove the faucet-the journal box and around a lot of shops to find the suitable for your model of mixer. Crane-axle mixers are usually affordable and easy to repair, but have a high consumption of water and not too easy to manage. Ball mechanism Faucets with ball mechanism equipped with a handle which is adjustable and pressure, and water temperature. They work on the same principle as ceramic crane Bush, but instead of the disks they are placed in a hollow metal sphere with three holes (for cold water, hot water and for mixing them). Cuff and gaskets, locking mechanism ball, fairly quickly wear out causing the faucet may begin to leak. Cartridge Cartridge single lever mixer consists of two discs made of ceramic, as in the case of ceramic valve-boxes, and is a single piece, which, in case of breakage, changing completely. It is compact, most durable and easy to control mechanism. From the design perspective, this option presents the greatest scope for choosing a suitable model mixer. However, you must remember that all single lever faucets are sensitive to water quality and preferably the installation of the pipes filters purification. Various options for the installation of faucets To choose a mixer, you will have to decide exactly where it will be installed, especially now that it offers lots of options for every shape and preferences. Installation options of the mixer: wall (if the bath and sink are so close that you can do it all with one mixer, but in new houses this option is not always possible, as the pipe system in them is hidden and divorced separately for sinks and baths); outdoor (very effective from the point of view of design, however, costly and requires a lot of space variant); embedded (all liner pipes hiding behind the body of the sink or bath); embedded in the rim of the tub (you can find the model of the bath, designed for this type of machine, or embed it in the normal acrylic bathtub); ceiling (ceiling shower can provide a whole range of pleasant sensations and different options of water flow, but not always convenient for technical purposes). Classification by application Do not think that the same mixer suitable for sink in the kitchen and in the bathroom, because they differ not only in design, but structurally, for example, the length and direction of the spout, methods of control and installation, and materials. Consider specific options. Basin mixer As a rule, modern sinks apply embedded single-lever faucet with short fixed spout. The spout height of 12-15 cm is sufficient for washing hands and washing, besides, it would suit almost any, even shallow sink. If the sink located in the bathroom next to the toilet, it makes sense to equip it with a hygienic shower, which are easy to replace and bidet can be installed to separate the bathroom without a sink. Its principle of operation is simple: water passes through the spout of the faucet above the sink, regulate its pressure and temperature. Basin mixer with hygienic shower fitted with a button, clicking which you direct the water flow through the hose. After water treatment, the key should be released and water will again run the spout into the sink. Как не ошибиться при выборе смесителя For kitchen sinks In the kitchen are commonly used built-in mixers. Their main difference from the models for bathroom is the shape and size of the spout. For most kitchen faucets are characterized by long, swivel spout, allowing you to wash even large pots. The higher spout, the stronger the water pressure, however, and the likelihood that it would be in a spray, which means you’ll need a sink with a deep bowl. Choose a sink and faucet for the kitchen at the same time it is desirable that their dimensions match each other.
Kitchen faucets include a wide variety of materials. Featuring not only brass, bronze and chrome, but the original mixers-metal and plastic. If the kitchen has a double sink or have the need to wash heavy dishware, you can install telescopic mixer, consisting of several hollow tubes. In this case it is better to choose a trusted manufacturer, because additional connections increase the risk of failure of joints, gaskets, etc. If you want a kitchen faucet it covered a large area, it offers mixers with the exhaust pipe. Inside a small decorative crane hides hose 1-1. 5 m as a conventional soul, which you can use to reach different areas of the kitchen. Как не ошибиться при выборе смесителя Bath First of all, we should note that the bathtub faucets can be combined with a shower. Shower faucets are compact and do not have switch shower-bath and the spout, since the water is immediately fed to shower heads. Как не ошибиться при выборе смесителя Bathtub faucets with shower — the most common and versatile option. They are usually equipped with low spout and can be either fixed or swivel (suitable if one mixer is used for baths and sinks). In addition, the kit usually comes with a height adjustable shower holder. Как не ошибиться при выборе смесителя For shower rack The reception is a bar with multiple shower heads and allows you to combine the functions of a bath and a shower stall. The top rack is stationary watering can, allowing you to change the mode of water flow and provide a massaging and relaxing effect. In addition to the upper lake on the rack is usually attached shower with flexible hose. The alternative is a wall panel lake of arbitrary shape, directing water on you in the form of small rain drops with massage effect, so, it was called “tropical storm”. Как не ошибиться при выборе смесителя Ceiling shower Ceiling shower is used to create the effect of home spa, which provides various modes of water supply from tight massage jets, relaxing rain. The size of the ceiling of the heads ranges from 15 to 50 cm in diameter and unusual. This is a great option for relaxation, but a regular shower with a flexible hose for domestic use you still need. Как не ошибиться при выборе смесителя Bidet There are various options of mixers for bidets. You can choose a universal model, similar to the conventional mixer, however, is equipped with aerator that allows you to change the direction of the jet. In addition to bidet will fit faucets with hose for hygienic shower and faucets with a spout for bidet function internal padding. In the latter case, the mixer is mounted on the bottom of the bowl. Manufacturers The choice of mixers to suit different tastes and wallet today. Among the budget include a variety of mixers from China. The price of these products are really small however, it is unlikely that you can count on any guarantee of quality. Inexpensive cost and models of domestic production, for example, brand Rossinka. If we talk about popular brands in the higher price categories, well-established in the domestic market, the most popular Grohe (Germany), Hansgrohe (Germany), Jacob Delafon (France), Roca (Spain), etc. In their collections you can find both simple and reliable model of the average price, and the more original and expensive options created by the famous designers. Special types of faucets Modern faucets can be equipped with additional features designed to make your daily life or professional activities more comfortable. Thermostatic mixers The thermostat ensures the water supply is strictly selected temperature and pressure, protecting from unpleasant surprises during water treatment. Thermostatic mixers can be electronic with display for settings and mechanical, does not require additional power source and tuning with levers and valves. Как не ошибиться при выборе смесителя Faucets with touch controls Touch mixer has levers and valves and consists only of a crane. It is equipped with a photocell that respond to movement in a zone of about 30 cm using the special lever you set the optimal temperature of the water, which will be switched on and off automatically. Touch mixer will save you from worrying about whether you turned off the faucet and does not burn the children. On the other hand, it is not suitable for the kitchen or for a set of baths, as there need each time different temperature. Basically touch faucets used in public restrooms to save water and hygiene. Cascading mixers Cascading mixers differ from the ordinary form of a spout, from which water flows a broad stream, resembling a waterfall. Their advantages are a stylish and original appearance, durability and the ability to separate installation when the crane is located at one end of the bath, and the controls in another, and the main drawback — relatively high cost. Faucets with suction shower for hairdressers For beauty salons for the convenience of the client and the master used special types of mixers with long pull-out shower. As a rule, they are single lever and is also equipped with an aerator to reduce splashing and ensure a softer stream of water even under strong pressure. Surgical faucets The main difference between surgical mixers — long handle that allows you to turn on and off the water with your elbow, not touching your hands to the mixer, which is caused by increased hygienic requirements. Such mixers can be installed at home, such as in the kitchen and for people with disabilities. Modern faucet is not just a utilitarian device, and the interior decoration, possible to ease your household chores and get pleasure from the water treatments. On the website santechsystemy.ru you can find truly wide selection of faucets for any type of premises, preferences and financial possibilities. You should go and see it for yourself!

Friday, March 17, 2017

How To Choose The Right Showerhead

Read article : How To Choose The Right Showerhead

Like everything else for the bathroom, there are a dizzying array of showerhead choices. Depending on your budget, your taste and the size of your shower space, you can opt for anything from a no-frills, wall-mounted head, a convenient hand-held model or a lavish spa shower with multiple jets and sprays.

Whether you're looking for a basic bathroom fix or a blissful hydrotherapy experience, the first step in selecting your perfect water delivery system is finding out what's available.

You'll find plenty of showerhead options that will fill the bill.

Basic Shower Head Types
Although there are numerous ways to customize your shower, showerheads fall into four basic categories:

1. Standard Wall-Mount Showerheads
If you're on a budget or just want a simple update to an existing bath, a wall-mounted showerhead is your best choice. You can change a wall-mounted head simply by unscrewing the existing part and screwing on a new one. However, be careful not to break the shower arm if you're having trouble unscrewing the old head. To prevent a possible leak, use a pair of pliers or a lubricant like WD-40 to help loosen things up.

Good to Know:

  • Works with existing plumbing
  • Extra features include nozzles that adjust from pulsing massage to gentle mists.
  • Prices begin at around $2 for a plastic single-spray model.

2. Hand-held Showerheads
Thanks to the additional reach and control provided by a three- to six-foot hose, a hand-held shower can help you perform multiple tasks, from bathing kids or the dog to washing your hair to rinsing down your shower enclosure.

Handheld showers are wall mounted and can be loaded with extras. For example, Waterpik offers a model with twin turbo massage jets and six spray patterns.

Good to Know:

  • Works with existing plumbing
  • Great for a family bathroom
  • Use instead of or in combination with a standard shower.
  • Some hand showers are mounted on sliding bars that adjust to various heights.
  • Prices begin at about $37 for a chrome model with six spray settings.

3. Top-Mount Showerheads
Sensual and stylish, top-mounted showerheads - also known as rain showers - are positioned directly over the bather's head for an enjoyably drenching experience. Top-mounted styles can be suspended from a pendant or flush-mounted to the ceiling.

Unlike the easy replacement of a standard head, installing a top-mounted showerhead requires extensive upgrades to existing plumbing.

Choices range from traditional rain shower heads offering a single spray pattern to truly over-the-top models such as the $3,700 WaterTile Ambient Rain by Kohler, a state-of-the-art system with four 22-nozzle heads and a programmable colored light system.

Good to Know:

  • Best for a new home or major bath renovation
  • Can be a great solution for ceilings that are too low for a wall-mount head
  • More affordable rain-style showerheads are available in standard wall-mounted models beginning at around $10; top-mounted models begin at around $500.

4. Body Sprays and Spa Shower Panels
You can recreate the experience of a hydrotherapy spa treatment by adding body sprays or multi-spray shower panels to your bath. These are usually installed in vertical rows on opposite or adjacent walls, providing a crisscrossing water pattern that massages you from head to toe. Body sprays and panels are often combined with other showerheads as part of a semi-custom or custom installation.

Good to Know:

  • Since body sprays require extensive plumbing work, they are best reserved for a complete renovation.
  • Body sprays are usually set at shoulder, hip and knee, so make sure to consider the height of each user to insure the best installation points.
  • Body sprays begin at around $85 per unit.

Saturday, September 23, 2017

A spa shower without taking bath

Read article : A spa shower without taking bath

May 16, 2008|BY ALLISON E. BEATTY

If steamy showers in an Italian marble paradise are not in your bathroom budget, don't worry. There are plenty of ways to design a luxury shower enclosure without spending a fortune.

Shower stalls have become a mainstay in many master bathrooms, as hurried lifestyles push homeowners toward efficiency in bathing. Instead of lounging around in the tub, they often pause for a few minutes in the shower. While the journey is shorter, the surroundings can be just as luxurious.

Many homeowners are looking to create a spa-like environment with multiple water jets, rain showers, steam showers, and plenty of upscale tile and stone. Home builders have taken note, rearranging floor plans to accommodate larger showers with all the fancy finishes.

The enclosure may have thick clear glass or a large opening instead of a door, depending on the desired look. These fancy shower stalls often come complete with marble or granite floor and wall tile and body spray, and a built in bench for relaxing. While it is easy to spend several thousand dollars outfitting an enclosure, there also are ways to be practical.

The first step is to think about your priorities. If you want a spa-like environment with pulsating water options, focus on the shower heads and sprayers. A water jet system with four sprays that cover most of a wall could cost $2,000 or more, but there are many fixtures that deliver a scaled-down level of luxury for $100 to $500.

Grohe, for example, has a Freehander shower unit that includes two pulsating body sprays on a pivoting arm. The unit is wall mounted and sells for about $350. American Standard has several rain shower heads, which bring a rush of water cascading down, for around $100. There also are many hand-held body sprays starting around $100.

If your top priority is the design, look beyond the builder's standard glossy 6-inch tiles to the world of natural stone. While real natural stone can cost $15 to $25 per tile, there are many ceramic and porcelain tiles with similar patterns that are priced from $2 to $12 per tile.

For an extra $200 to $500, you can add a cream tumbled marble design made of ceramic. Some people even carry that look throughout the bathroom, changing the floor tile and tile above the vanity. That type of change could cost an extra $300 to $800.

The layout of the tiles also can create a spa-like environment. "You can install larger tiles on the floors and walls," said Jeff Benach, vice president of Lexington Homes, LLC (LexingtonChicago.com) in Chicago. "By going to an 8-by8-inch tile or a 12-by-12-inch tile, it makes the room seem larger and gives it a more upscale look."

Tiles also can be installed in varying patterns to create some drama.

Many tiles are sold in groups of two or three sizes, making it easy to create a brick pattern or a random design on the wall or floor. Depending on the design, a unique wall or floor pattern might cost $200 to $500 more than a standard tile installation.

Patterns with varying tile sizes or that are laid on an angle often require more labor and materials, which increase the cost. "From an installation standpoint it's more expensive, but it's a good way to give it a custom look without spending a fortune," Benach said.

Another option is to mix in different tile colors or materials. Glass tile insets have become a hot trend and can help showcase a shower stall, said Janis Mitchell, design coordinator for 2100 Condos, a Rokas International development (RokasInternational.com) at 2100 S. Indiana Ave. in Chicago.

A clear or translucent blue glass tile can create an interesting contrast when added as a row around the shower walls. Glass tiles often are one to two inches square and also can be arranged in geometric shapes to highlight one part of a wall. They also can be used along the wall behind the vanity to tie in the sink area with the shower stall.

Another way to create impact in the shower stall is with a fancier door. Some homeowners like the crisp look of having a thick, clear glass door. "It makes a big splash," Benach said. "You can make a rich feeling bathroom without going into rich wood floors or stone floors, which are beautiful but expensive."

There are many ways to create a stunning shower enclosure on a budget. The trick is to focus on a few key areas and always keep your priorities and budget in mind.

Monday, August 7, 2017

7 stunning bathroom trends for 2017 revealed

Read article : 7 stunning bathroom trends for 2017 revealed

The bathroom is first and foremost a functional space, but it is also a space that can be beautifully designed to make it a standout feature visually as well.

Aside from the usual practical aspects of this space, Kyle Turner from Luximo, the local distributor for the luxurious ROCA sanitaryware brand, offers some insights into the main trends influencing bathroom design going forward:

1. Organic is back

imageKyle says organic elements can add warmth, uniqueness, and a rich tactile sensation to the overall composition. As such, materials such as wood, stone, metal and ceramics remain popular.

It is understandable why designers and homeowners alike admire Mother Nature as the ultimate source of design inspiration - organic elements can add warmth, uniqueness, and a rich tactile sensation to the overall composition. As such, materials such as wood, stone, metal and ceramics remain popular.

“Natural materials are being used to great effect to bring nature back into our homes. To stay within budgets, and to ensure easy maintenance and longevity, lots of indistinguishable imitative products are gaining popularity,” says Kyle.

“These warm organically-inspired or natural materials are used to great effect when juxtaposed with modern materials and super clean, streamlined design lines that offer practical and simple arrangement of spaces.”

2. Leading colourways

Darker more moody tones are making a huge comeback throughout the home, as well as in the bathroom.

“Darker tones, especially the rich palette of grey hues, are proving to be enormously popular. In the bathroom, they can be used on the walls and floor, and juxtaposed against brilliant white sanitaryware for maximum visual impact,” says Kyle.

He says can also integrate other popular colours.

“Matte, nude and neutral colours offer the perfect combination when paired with darker greys and blacks, and offer a great way of introducing some contrast to the overall colour palette,” says Kyle.

“Combinations of pastel tonalities in blue, green, salmon and ash are also on the rise, but only when used as accent tones. And of course, the classic all-white monochromatic bathroom never seems to go out of fashion.”

3. Metal and marble mania

image“These warm organically-inspired or natural materials are used to great effect when juxtaposed with modern materials and super clean, streamlined design lines that offer practical and simple arrangement of spaces,” says Kyle.

“Marble cladding on the walls and metal accessories in gold or copper are bang on trend,” says Kyle.

“There has been a stylish revival of this 70s aesthetic - brass has really become that most fashionable metal for the bathroom, and when paired with the nobility of marble, it makes a truly irresistible combination.”

4. Play with geometry

A variation of geometric shapes inspired by the strong lines of architectural and structural elements has really come to the fore with regards to tiling and ceramic cladding.

“Hints of the Orient and the Mediterranean are being introduced in a modern and dynamic way in new trendy bathroom tile ranges,” says Kyle.

“An example of this is the rising popularity of the hexagonal tiles used for wall and floor coverings - it is proving to be a very popular design combination with multiple variations that can interpreted in many ways.”

5. Water efficiency rules

Water has always been a very precious commodity, but it is becoming a very high priority, especially in light of the severe water shortages we have been living through of late.

Kyle says awareness of water shortages has made choosing sanitaryware that is water efficient a must.

“You use more water in the bathroom than every other room in your home combined. Choosing water-efficient options is the right thing to do, and it can save thousands of litres and lots of money in the long run,” he says.

image“Matte, nude and neutral colours offer the perfect combination when paired with darker greys and blacks, and offer a great way of introducing some contrast to the overall colour palette,” says Kyle.

“Water-efficient taps, double-flush cisterns, and low-flow showerheads all make a big impact on reducing your water consumption in the bathroom. However, there are other really clever and innovative products - one of them being the exclusive ROCA W+W, which reuses the water from the basin to fill the cistern after filtering it, further reducing water consumption by up to 25%.”

6. Smart storage

Adequate storage is essential in any bathroom space, and today, it takes on the role of being both functional and visually pleasing.

“Bathroom storage needs to provide you with easy access to all your items - it prevents the items from getting lost inside the furniture unit. ROCA’s range of bathroom furniture, for example, boasts drawers with full extraction systems that display all their contents so that you may access even the farthest corner,” says Kyle.

“Some models also include a concealed drawer to facilitate the tidiness of?the smaller objects.

However, he says that modern bathroom furniture has also become smart.

ROCAs Statum-N Base Unit, for example, allows you to connect your smartphone to the Bluetooth speakers of the furniture unit and enjoy your music while you shower or get ready to go out. It also offers a built-in socket in its drawer so that you can use to plug your hairdryer, electric shaver, or straightening iron in.”

image“Combinations of pastel tonalities in blue, green, salmon and ash are also on the rise, but only when used as accent tones," says Kyle.

7. Deluxe showers

The bath has always taken centre stage in bathroom design, however, there is a trend to replace the bath with a super-luxurious and grand shower instead.

“Showering is water efficient, it is quick and easy, and it provides one of the few occasions in which we are relaxed, calm and away from the stress caused by our everyday lifestyle,” says Kyle.

“It is no wonder that it is really starting to take centre stage in modern bathroom design. From the shower walls, shower heads and faucets, you can customise your shower according to your budget and needs.

He says another important element to consider is the shower floor or tray.

“Gone are the days when acrylic shower floors were your only option, as ROCA now also provides shower trays in STONEX, steel and vitreous china. Shower trays manufactured in STONEX, a resistant and long-lasting material, may be installed levelled to the floor, and thanks to their textured surface, offer a high anti-slip feature,” says Kyle.

“They are also available?in different natural finishes to meet the needs of all kinds of bathroom environments, providing a very modern look - Helios, wooden texture, Terran, stone texture.”

imageAdequate storage is essential in any bathroom space, and today, it takes on the role of being both functional and visually pleasing, says Kyle.

Kyle says steel shower trays are functional, long lasting and extra slim so that they are perfectly integrated in the shower space, and it is only necessary to clean them with a wet cloth and soap.

“For greater comfort, ROCA’s In-Floor or Blues XL collections include an anti-slip base,” says Kyle.

“If you are searching for an economic shower tray that is easy to clean and resistant to chemical agents, those manufactured in vitreous china - such as ROCA’s Malta shower tray for example - are a good option.”

All ROCA products are currently available at Bathroom Bizarre outlets countrywide.

 

Saturday, November 18, 2017

2014 The Italian Sea Group Admiral Sail - Silent 76, Carrara Italy

Read article : 2014 The Italian Sea Group Admiral Sail - Silent 76, Carrara Italy

Features:

1. Construction

Hull Construction:

The hull is moulded in GRP from female moulds; it uses a high properties gelcoat and the internal side of the hull is vacuum infused with isoftalic polyester resin while the skincoat features a further application of vi-nylester resin in order to avoid and limit osmosis. Additional reinforce-ments are included to the keel area, the keel longitudinal, mast bulkhead, structural P-brackets, engine room basement, forestay and hull stringers. Limber holes which penetrate structural areas and/or tubes are installed at appropriate points on stringers, bulkhead – landings and floors.

Hull Finishes:

Grey metal hull and with light grey superstructure; red waterline and black antifouling;

Deck Construction:

Moulded in GRP with a PVC foam cored structure for strength and insula-tion. In load bearing areas the core is replaced with plywood for additional strength, and all load bearing fittings have backing plates.

The hull to deck connection is achieved by bonding the deck onto the return flange of the hull and using the glue approved by Class rules in or-der to create a structural junction.

Deck Finishes:

The weather deck, cockpit seats, sole areas and part of the coachroof area are finished with teak planking (10mm). This is laid using epoxy ad-hesive, with no visible fastenings.

The areas either side of the main companionway are finished with teak planking, with open stowage areas and stainless steel rails.

All lockers drain outside and their hinges and catches are recessed or hid-den into Teak planking, as appropriate.

Keel System:

The keel is a high performance bulb design.

The ballast keel is made of lead casting bolted to the GRP hull with stain-less steel bolts. Ballast weight is approximately 14,800 kgs. .

The keel is designed to combine moderate draft with good sailing perfor-mance due to its efficient shape and side winglets. The centre of gravity is very low due to the fact that the centerboard is made of cast iron while the actual keel is made of lead.

Mast and Boom:

Max Spar conventional alloy mast (made of two parts) with Ronstan track for in-boom furling mainsail with top tapered (last 3 meters). Triple spread-er rig with tapered aerofoil spreaders (21° angle).

Custom carbon boom – deep and trapezoidal section incorporating Bamar furling system and electric motor for in-boom furling mainsail.

Mast & Boom and Mast & Vang connections are custom made in alumi-num and feature a special, custom made concealing cover, made of car-bon, which gives a unique design. Also the vang itself feature a custom made concealing cover, made of two carbon conical blocks.

Deck Fittings:

Stainless steel opening pulpit;

Port and starboard navigational lights;

Stainless steel pushpit with gate for boarding;

Custom stainless steel and teak made engine bracket;

650mm stainless steel custom stanchions and bases with double stainless steel rod guardrails;

Pair of gateway stanchions for side access;

Stainless steel telescopic and retractile steamhead fitting with single roller designed to stow a 63kg Delta anchor. The chain flows into the steamhead arm itself, without the need of having an external chainplate;

Pair of custom stainless steel, leather upholstered backrest seats fitted at the helm positions;
6 x pairs of 400mm stainless steel “pop-up” mooring cleats with chafe strips to deck edges;
4 x pairs of aft “pop-up” fairleads and cleats in proximity of the transom bulwark;
Deck fillers – 2 x fuel, 2 x water and 1 x waste;
1000W Sanguinetti Chiavari retractile capstan for mooring lines at bow;

Cockpit:

The cockpit is split into separate guest and steering/crew areas, although they are both on the same level.
The main companionway features a double large horizontal sliding hatchway with stainless steel frames and grab rail. The sliding mechanism is manually powered.
The guest cockpit is over 3m long and self-draining as it’s on the same level of the main deck. There are also cockpit drains which ease the water to drain away while at sea and going upwind. There is a clear walkway giving excellent access from the companionway to the helm positions and side decks, all on the same level.
The cockpit features two teak-topped opening, sliding and telescopic tables.
The tables are permanently installed and have seats on three sides due to the cockpit design. The table is provided with a cover. Under one of the cockpit seats a top opening fridge finds place.
Three pairs of flush mounted waterproof loud speakers are mounted in the guest cockpit with their own cockpit mounted remote control unit for the dedicated ‘cockpit’ CD/Tuner head unit (head unit installed below decks).
Two of those speakers are used by the vhf system, as external loud speakers.
The helm position has twin custom GRP and aluminium steering pedestals
incorporating all the standard controls and instruments with plenty of room for additional equipment, if required. Each pedestal has a flush-mounted compass with internal lighting. There is a double lever engine control fitted at the starboard pedestal. The wheels are fitted in a reverse position, giving easy and safe access to the instruments mounted on both pedestals.
At the helm position an aluminium roll-bar finds place. This is the base where the two fixed points for the mainsheet system are fitted.
Aft the helm positions is a clear flat deck area, which can be filled with cushions, creating a sunbathing area. This area also includes two big lockers with flush-to-deck lids, teak covered; they are designed to host two liferafts or alternatively one can be dedicated to a liferaft and the other one to store lines. A custom flush hatch is fitted with twin gas struts, drain channels, rubber seal and against the wind closing to give access to the large dinghy garage.

Garage & Bathing Platform:

The yacht is built with a flap-down full beam transom, raised and lowered hydraulically, which also gives the main access to the toys garage. The garage can host a good number of toys and actually it fitted to host 3 seabobs.
The bathing platform created by the transom once it’s open it is provided with a demountable stainless steel bathing ladder and it’s covered by teak planking.
A removable ladder also connects the main deck to the transom when open. Alternatively also the gangway can be used for this purpose.
There is a hot and cold freshwater deck shower located in the dinghy garage which can be used on the bathing platform thanks to a flexible hose.
The garage door is also provided with an emergency system for opening the garage, which is placed close to the waterline, protected by a stainless steel screwed in cap and which can be operated by a person in the water.

Hard Top:

The yacht features a custom cockpit hard top, which gives a very good protection to the all cockpit and helm positions. This feature is unique on yachts of this size and contributes to the overall design of the yacht.

The hard has an aluminium structure, attached to the aluminium roll-bar which is placed aft. The practical functions of this will be both sprayhood and bimini.
The hard top has a glass cover and an opening area which is covered with acrylic material (Sunbrella), with battens.
The hard top also features side glasses which deliver complete protection to the forward end of the cockpit seats.


Anchoring:

A Quick 3000w electric anchor windlass is installed below deck and within the anchor chain locker. The windlass, which is two-way and operated by adjacent foot switch controls is well over specified for the size of the vessel.
The 63kg (approximately) Delta anchor stows into the retractable stemhead fitting.
120 metres of 12mm calibrated, galvanized chain is fitted to match the
windlass. The chain is fastened at its 'bitter end' to a through-bolted stainless
steel attachment with substantial lanyard.

Haatches, Windows and Portholes:

1 x Lewmar over forward crew cabin;
1 x Lewmar over forward VIP cabin;
1 x Lewmar over main saloon;
1 x Lewmar over garage (with teak planked lid);
Custom main companionway with double sliding and balanced hatch system,
stainless frames and grab rails (by SeaSmart);
1 x custom GRP hatch to cover anchor steamhead locker;
Custom direct bonded, curved and flat, non-opening frameless deck saloon
windows, smoked glass made (by Viraver);
8 x custom direct bonded non-opening frameless hull windows, smoked glass made (by Viraver);


Whinches:

2 x Harken 1000.3 ST three speed, electric drive, self-tailing primary
winches;
2 x Harken 74.2 ST two speed electric drive, self-tailing halyard winches;


4. Rigging and Sails


Standing Rigging:

The vessel is fitted with discontinuous Maxspar rod rigging for the 3- spreader rig. The standing rigging includes a split backstay which is made of high performance steel and Dynema for the backstay legs, with plates below deck;
Discontinuous rod rigging for tip-cups;
Enclosed rod rigging for tip-cups;
Stainless steel rod, which incorporates high strength, low stretch and high corrosion resistance;
Stemball spreader links and stemball tang fittings used throughout;
Total weight of standing rigging is: 340kg;


Running Rigging:

1 x 16mm dyneema main halyard;
2 x 16/14mm dyneema/dynaone headsail/blade halyard;
1 x 14mm dyneema storm/jib halyard;
1 x 16mm dyneema boom topping lift;

2 x 16mm dyneema asymmetric halyard;
1 x 16mm dyneema mainsheet;
2 x 16mm dyneema blade jib sheets;
2 x 14mm dyneema storm jib sheets;
2 x 16mm dyneema reef lines;
2 x 18mm dyneema checkstay runner tails;

Backstay and Vang Hydraulics:

1 x Cariboni hydraulic backstay tensioners with mechanical lock-off;
1 x Cariboni hydraulic vang with carbon cover;
Operation of these rig hydraulics is powered via a push button console fitted
on pedestal and with a manual backup control unit close to port pedestal;


Blocks:

Spinlock;
2 x stand up single block on bulwark;
2 x pad eyes;


Mainsheet System:

The system is managed by a magic trim system which is installed below deck at mast level. This allows to have a double point mainsheet on the rollbar and therefore the cockpit and deck remain as clear as possible;

Headsail System:

The system uses an auto/tacking jib with single track and single car;

The car can be also used for the removable staysail;

There is a single jib sheet, going from the traveller up to the mast and then down concealed under the coachroof and back to one of the aft winches;


Headsail System:

Bamar electric headsail furling which gives push-button reefing and furling
of the jib;
Unit finished in black anodizing and stainless steel and concealed below
deck to create a flushed bow area;
Manual backup;
Dual controls are provided for each headsail furling function, so the sail may be furled from either side of the cockpit;


Storm Staysail System:

Removable storm jib stay;
Storm jib halyard;
Cariboni hydraulic tensioner;

Rigging Hardware:

Fittings, tip-cups, etc., for discontinuous rod rigging;
Deck ring fabricated in spartite (composite) x 2 kits;
Conduit for masthead instrument wiring;
Spinlock ZS rope jammers for storm jib and blade jib halyards;
Spinlock ZS rope jammers for mainsail halyard and topping lift;
Mast jacking system;
SAILS (by North Sails) Mainsail – SRP 105 – 5 x full-length carbon battens, loose foot, two rows
of reefing points each with custom leech reef block;
Mainsail boom cover in acrylic;
Furling and Selftacking Jib – SRP 105, including a foam luff pad and UV
stripes;
All sails feature a custom graphic design;


5. Electronic Systems

Navigation Instruments:

2 x Raymarine i70, supported data views include: Wind, Speed, Depth,
Tri-data and navigation integrated with the Chart Plotter. The instruments
are installed on each pedestal;
Raymarine SPX-30 SmartPilot autopilot with T3 hydraulic linear drive unit;
2 x Raymarine p70 autopilot remote control located at pedestal and chart
table;
2 x Raymarine e125 Chart Plotter at both pedestals with integrated Digital
Radar and built-in 50 Channel Global Positioning System (GPS), interfaced
with the autopilot;
Raymarine 4kW Radome radar antenna mounted on mast;
Raymarine Ray 240E, Class D-DSC VHF radio-telephone with antenna at
masthead and second station at pedestal;
Magnetic compass;

Entertainment:

Stereo FM Radio/CD Player with iPod and iPhone connectivity. One is fitted with four loudspeakers in the cockpit and has a remote control with twin loudspeakers to the foredeck. Inside the yacht every cabin has a separate stereo system while the master suite and main saloon feature a proper home theatre system which includes stereo and iPod connection.
The stereo system can be also controlled via wifi by an iPad;
8 x OX-Home mirror TV’s are fitted throughout the yacht including bathrooms;

6. Engine Room Equipment

General:

The engine room surfaces are faced with white painted sound absorbing aluminium panels. The engine room access is below the ladder which connects the main saloon to the forward cabin, all other access panels are extra ordinary service panels into the salon floor. The engine room has 24v lighting and is fitted with extractor fans ducted to the exterior through concealed into coachroof grids. An automatic fire extinguisher is fitted with remote indicator light;

Propulsion:

2 x Yanmar Common Rail 4BY2-150 diesel engines, 150hp @ 4,000rpm
ZF reduction gear, which gives a reduction of 2.45:1;
2 x 22” 3 fixed pitch and blades propellers;
2 x 40mm stainless steel shafts lines;
2 x Bronze P-bracket and a PSS water-lubricated lip seal stern gland system;
1 x 15kW SP240 TCi Side Power electric bowthruster with speed control PPC 800;


7. Electrical System


12/24 Volt:

Domestic bank batteries are 24V AGM type, deep cycle series, with a total capacity of 2000 Ah @ 20Ah rate. This battery bank also serves the bowthruster load;
Engine starting batteries are 12V AGM type, heavy duty type (one battery for each engine);
Generator starting battery 12V AGM type, heavy duty type;
2 x 24V/100 Ah alternators (one for each engine);
24V/12V converter, used to charge the engine batteries bank through the alternators;
100A/24V Skylla-TG battery charger;
24V/5000W Phoenix inverter;
12V/30A Phoenix Charger for engines and generator;
24V/12V Blue Power IP20 battery charger for emergency battery bank;
Circuit breaker system;
Victron Easy Control Panel acting as a voltmeter and ammeter for monitoring the vessel’s batteries status;
Batteries isolators;

220 Volt:

1 x 20kW (50Hz) Kohler 4-cylinder diesel generator running @ 1,500rpm installed within manufacturer’s sound shield, located into the fully – insulated engine room. An exhaust water separator and waterlock are installed.

The unit has a remote Start/Stop and instruments mounted on the AC electrical panel at chart table.
220V AC circuit with outlet sockets located as appropriate within the layout;
1 x 63Amp dockside power cable, 3-core double insulated PVC; socket
located on the aft deck;
1 x 100A/24V Victron Battery Chargers;


9. Bilge System


General:

8 x Rule electric bilge pumps;
High level bilge alarm with double level sensor;
Manual bilge pump operated from the side of the cockpit and fitted with a metal deck plate;
Emergency electric bilge pump by Gianneschi, with manual clutch, rated to pump approx. 125lt/min;


10. Fuel System

General:

2 x aluminium tanks providing a total capacity of 1,900 litres, including the
return tank;
Tank inspection cover, one for each;
Tank deck fillers;
Tank gauge system;
Duplex Racor fuel filter and water separator unit is installed with warning lights at the electrical panel. With this system each filter can be isolated whilst maintaining the all machinery up and running, allowing in-use filter replacement and cleaning;

11. Water System


Fresh Water System:

2 x structural tanks totalling 1,360 litres. The GRP tanks are treated with inert gelcoat, fitted with baffles and provided with multiple inspection covers;
1 x 80lt Quick B3 80 water heater; the water is heated by the engine’s heat exchanger or by a thermostatically-controlled 220V, 1.2kW immersion heater element;
180lt/h Idromar MSK 18 watermaker;
Tank deck fillers;
Tank gauge system;

Grey Water:

3 x Sanisplit pressure lines which serve two grey-water aluminium tanks (totalling 220lt) located in the engine room, fitted with a float switch and a Gulper pump, giving automatic evacuation of all showers, washbasins and galley sinks;


Black Water:

5 x Tecma macerator toilets;
1 x 110lt aluminium black water holding tank;
Tank gauge system;
The tank is configured for discharge below water with additional ability to be pumped out from deck via flush-mounted deck fittings.


12. Other Options


General:

60,000 BTU Condaria reverse cycle 220V air conditioning, 8 units;
Barazza Microwave;
Miele electric oven;
Miele Dishwasher;
Miele Washing machine;
Bora 4-plates electric hob;
Bora extractor fan;
Waeco Coolmatic HDC 150 liter 24V fridge, front opening, fitted into the
galley;
Waeco Coolmatic CB 40 Liter 24V fridge, top opening, fitted into the galley;
Third fridge, top opening, fitted into the cockpit, below the seats;
2 x LED underwater lights;
Lopolight tri-wihite light at masthead;
Windex type Wind indicator at masthead with dedicated light;

2 x boom lights over cockpit;
Pair of down and up spreader courtesy lights;
Master gaiter cover in waterproof fabric;

13. Accomodation


General:

The layout allows for a maximum of eight guest berths and two crew, in five cabins, with five heads and separate shower compartments. Owners', guests' and skipper's cabins will have hanging lockers with auto light. All cabins have a mirror fitted.


Deck Saloon:

Access to the Saloon from the cockpit is via a set of teak covered steps, backlighted on the bottom side, with stainless steel handrails on side. The ladder structure is made of aluminium. A custom double sliding, smoked glazed access system is installed at the companionway. This system has a mechanically balanced and assisted operation. The access ladder continues aft, in order to give access to the guest area, and features a Plexiglas divider between the steps going outside and the ones which give access
to the guest area. Below the ladder, in the foyer, a little settee or alternatively a little storage or oilskin locker find place, while below the steps going down into the foyer, which can be removed, there is an access to the main electric switch panel.
Going into the saloon there is a large table to starboard which serves an ‘L’ shape large settee, leather upholstered. The table has a veneered top panel with stainless steel details and it features a sliding mechanism.
There may be also additional stools in order to create more sitting area.
Alternative custom tables are available on request.
To the aft side of the sitting areas, on the bulkhead, a good size mirror TV finds place. A custom drinks locker is fitted forward, surrounding the mast area.
To port side there is a bar area which also works as a kitchen island and which can be provided with tall stools. The island is covered with ‘slatelite onice classico’ on the saloon side which is also backlighted. On the port side, the galley and the chart table find place.
The material used within the saloon are ‘Eucalypt fumé’ for the joinery, white leather and stainless steel strips for the floors and white leather and sand nabuk leather for the headlining. The hull sides, hullports and hatches recesses are upholstered with brown leather, while the venetian blinds are made of wood and leather. The sofa is white leather upholstered.

The Deck Saloon is extremely light and airy, with four bonded to coachroof windows and two opening deck hatches. There are also two long nonopening hullports, one per each side. These hullports contribute to the great feeling of light and space, giving a panoramic view whilst at anchor.

Galley:

The galley has a single, long surface taking the most of the length of the deck saloon. The worktop is covered with ‘Callisto slatelite’ stone with all the appliances being flushed to worktop. The same slatelite material is also used on the floor.
The appliances include a double electric hob for a total of four hot plates by Bora which also feature a particular extractor fan in the middle, again by Bora, fitted on the worktop and assuring a good smoke and odour extraction with the minimum noise. Beside the hob is a sub-counter top mounted ceramic and custom made single sink, which is served by a retractile tap by Barazza. The galley also features an electric oven by Miele
and a microwave by Barazza, together with a front-opening fridge and a top-opening one, better described in the refrigeration chapter. The galley also has a front-opening slim line dishwasher by Miele, for up to nine covers.
Both the refrigerator and freezer have an automatic door light fitted and are provided with their own compressors.


Nav Station:

On this yacht the chart table area is located in order to be a natural continuation of the galley worktop, forward of the galley, and it’s provided with two front-facing panels which accommodate the all electronics, a substantial chart table and a stool which can be removed when not in use.
A small stainless steel support stay is fitted on the chart table lid. There is provision for the stowage of charts. Stowage will be provided also for navigational books, almanacs, etc.


Master Cabin:

The aft cabin is configured with a double berth which is centerlined, one pouf which serves a dressing table and an office desk, plus two large hanging lockers, with drawer and locker space. There is access to the ensuite aft bathroom which is split in two parts, located forward to both sides, one for the shower and the other one for wc, both served by a washbasin.
This cabin is also provided with a safe, flush fitted with digital keypad.

Master Head:

This bathroom is split in two separate areas, on port and starboard side.
The starboard side one includes a separate shower by Bianchi e Fontana and a washbasin; the shower walls and floor as well as the bathroom floor, walls and washbasin counter top are all covered with San Laurant marble with part of the shower corners to be backlighted. Also the washbasin is hollow into the same material and has taps by Fantini and plumbing by Paffoni.
The port side bathroom features a washbasin and a Tecma electric wc (black colour) and the same material as per the starboard one but has Alpilignum joinery instead of marble which is fitted on the floor and on washbasin counter top and stowage doors only. This bathroom also has a mirror TV’ which is hidden behind the mirror.
Headlining for both bathrooms are made of white LED backlighted panels.
Quality large type mixer taps, thermostatic shower controls and fittings are by Fantini and Inda.
Lockers for wash bags, cleaning materials and linen stowage are provided.

Guest Cabins (STB and PRT):

Forward of the master cabin are a pair of guest double cabins, one either side of the corridor.
One of those cabins is configured to be an upper/lower berthed cabin, while the other is a double berth one. Each has en-suite WCs and showers and a hanging locker. The beds also feature a big storage space under the slats net which can be lifted up.


Guest Head:

The two aft guest’s bathrooms serve the two aft cabins and are almost specular. They are both fitted with a separate shower by Bianchi e Fontana and they feature walls, floors and washbasin counter top in “Slatelite Selene”. The headlining is made of “Dani Boxland” leather and of varnished panels. The wc’s are Tecma electric (colour black). Both the bathrooms feature quality mixer taps and thermostatic shower control by Fantini
and fittings by Inda. In particular the taps are fizzed to floor and have a cylinder design.
The washbasins are mounted on the slatelite counter top and are by “Glassdesign” (colour black); the port side one is a gum type (flexible).
In both bathroom there are rollaway stainless steel wirings fitted in the shower which can be used to hang wet clothes; in this way the shower cubicle can be used as an oilskin locker.


VIP Cabin:

Forward from the saloon, which also include the galley on the port side, there is a VIP double berth cabin which uses the all beam of the yacht and has an en-suite good size bathroom on the starboard side. This cabin is also provided with a safe, flush fitted with digital keypad.

VIP Head:

The VIP bathroom takes the all length of the VIP cabin and is placed on starboard side. The shower walls and washbasin top are made of “Slatelite Elios”, while the other walls feature an “Alpilignum” joinery. The floors are made of “Calacatta Oro” marble which is also backlighted into the shower.
The headlining are made of “Dani Boxland” leather. Hidden behind the mirror, a TV finds place too.
The wc is an electric Tecma (Black colour) and the quality mixer taps and thermostatic shower control are by Fantini, while the bathroom’s fitting are by Inda. The washbasin is a ceramic type, squared, over counter top mounted, by “GSG Ceramica” (glossy white colour).


Crew Cabin:

Forward of this cabin is a double crew cabin with en-suite head and integral shower. This cabin is also fitted with a laundry corner which includes a washer-dryer; the access to this cabin is through a generous size deck hatch only.

Crew Head:

The Crew head which is accessible from the crew cabin only, features a Corian type floor with integrated grate for shower drain. The bathroom has an integrated shower and for this reason all the wall, lockers and other surfaces are made of easy to clean material. The bathroom has taps and shower fittings by Paffoni and a Tecma electric toilet (white colour).
In the bathroom as well as in the cabin itself there are rollaway stainless steel wirings fitted which can be used to hang wet clothes; in this way the bathroom can be used as an oilskin locker, while the cabin area can be used as a drying area.

Disclaimer

This offering is subject, but not limited to, errors, omissions, price fluctuation, and prior
sale or withdrawal without notice. All details disclosed are without guarantee and solely
based on the information received by the seller, intended as a general guide to the Yacht.
Engel & Völkers cannot be held liable for any lack of completeness, inaccuracy, or ambiguities
and/or errors contained in the information disclosed. It is the buyer’s responsibility
to disclose the details of any concern(s) to the seller, by the request of a survey, inspection and/or enquiry. The buyer must ensure that the purchase contract properly reflects his
concern(s) and that it sets out any representations and/or details on upon which he may
rely. Engel & Völkers always advises the buyer to conduct an independent survey
prior to the purchase. We are at your disposal for any further information about the
Yacht. Upon receipt of notice, the Yacht is available for viewing at any time, accompanied
by our Yacht Broker. The Seller is responsible for the payment of Commission

Saturday, May 6, 2017

Copper pipe electrolysis from touching galvanized steel?

Read article : Copper pipe electrolysis from touching galvanized steel?
topic 24664

An ongoing discussion from 2003 through 2016 . . .

(2003)electrolysis in copper pipe

Q.I recently had a 1/2" TYPE L HMP flexible copper pipe that sprung a leak, unfortunately it was inside the wall going up to the second floor. After splicing the pipe where it was leaking another spot started leaking. I noticed inside the pipe a bunch of green "blobs" & the outside of this (HOT) water pipe a lot cleaner than the other pipe (COLD) that would have been put in at the same time, 20-25 years ago I'm guessing. I did notice one spot where the copper pipe was touching an old galvanized pipe seemed to be wet and green. Could there have been some electrolysis going on that caused this pipe to start getting finer than pin hole leaks & how much damage might have been done to the rest of the plumbing if that is the case?

THANK YOU FOR YOUR HELP,

Alex H [last name deleted for privacy by Editor]
do-it-myself-er - Cedar Rapids , Iowa

(2003)

A.Copper pipes can corrode in at least three different ways, but the differences are quite technical. I would suggest that the corrosion could be induced by a galvanic couple caused by contact with the galvanised pipe and this results in an induced local anodic polarisation of the copper pipe. I would normally expect such a failure to occur where the two pipes come into contact, but if this point is dry, no corrosion will occur and the effects of the galvanised pipe will be transmitted onto the copper pipe where it will react in a more favourable wet environment. Your photograph clearly shows the green copper salts on the inside of the failed straight pipe, so it must have been in an area where the copper is oxidised and failed. The propensity for copper pipes to fail is related to how the pipe was made, the local water composition and the environment it is used in. I would suggest there may be other not be other problems with your copper pipes, as there has already been a failure of an induced polarity, but if there are other non-compatible pipes in contact with each other, there could be a repeat of this. It may be wise to ask a plumber to check your system out.

trevor crichton
Trevor Crichton
R&D practical scientist
Chesham, Bucks, UK

(2004)

Q.I was told by a local plumber that electrolysis can occur in copper pipes when the hot water heating system is part of a forced hot water boiler system. The solution is to put nylon fittings between the copper connections and the galvanized boiler system so as to prevent any electrolysis action from taking place in the copper pipes running throughout the building. I would like to get other opinions since this is an expensive fix and it takes a long time to determine whether the fix in fact works.

Dan W [last name deleted for privacy by Editor]
property management - Juneau, Alaska

(2004)

A.It is the right advise, Dan. For galvanic corrosion to occur you need a metallic circuit and an electrolyte circuit. If you break the conductive metal circuit between the copper and galvanized pipe, galvanic corrosion ("electrolysis")" does not occur. This is not to say that no form of corrosion will ever occur though.

Ted Mooney, finishing.com
Teds signature
Ted Mooney, P.E. RET
finishing.com
Pine Beach, New Jersey
(2004)

A.Copper pipe failure began to occur approximately eight years after completion of a new home in Brewster Co. Texas. The leaks were always in the cold line.

A split-core ammeter revealed a slight current flow between the steel gas pipe and the hot side of the copper system. No current could be detected between the cold copper pipe and the hot, or the steel gas line. This led me to conclude that the cold line was acting as a sacrificial anode between the other two while absorbing all voltage drop.

No electrical bonding could be found.

My solution was to isolate the steel line (which included some galvanized parts), from the copper system with a PVC adapter.

Current flow cannot now be detected unless a jumper is placed between the steel and copper.

Is the problem solved? I don't know! What can be said is that there is no further measurable evidence of electrolytic activity in this particular system.

Sam D [last name deleted for privacy by Editor]
- Alpine, Texas
(2004)

A.As others have mentioned, there are three different ways for holes to develop in a copper line, and I have seen all three.

A typical trade mark of electrolysis is pit on the inside of the pipe where the electrical current has actually eaten away at the piping, this doesn't sound like what is going on.

Another way is corrosion from the outside, normally when the piping in in a damp location with high acid soils, or even in an unsealed sleeve (copper run inside another pipe, usually PVC, and normally from the meter to the house). This is evidenced by pitting on the outside of the pipe.

The last one I have come across, and am still researching, is what it sounds like this gentleman has. It typically will have build-up on the inside of the piping and will often times leave large "blobs" of build up. I don't know what this is for sure, but I do know it isn't electrolysis, and it has nothing to do with water that is too clean (mentioned on another website as a possible answer). I think it has to do with the water quality to a certain degree, but I think it may be the molecular structure not the chemicals used. I think the buildup is a protectant for a "micro-atmosphere" high in maybe hydrogen. But I could be wrong, I am still researching this. I will post any further findings.

Jereme Grisenti
plumbing - Blountville, Tennessee

(2005)

Q.If we were to rivet or otherwise attach a copper sleeve to galvanized chimney pipe, would this cause the galvanized pipe to fail? We have fireplace chimneys on the beach. we have several copper clad chimneys that are doing well, but the maker went out of business. Now we have only galvanized pipe to work with and the outside of it corroding causes an eye sore.

Bryan Malt
- San Diego, California
(2006)

Q.This is a piggy back question.

Three 1/2 inch copper pipes running from my basement to the Laundry room one floor above show the same kind of erosion as the picture accompanying the original question. In each case the green copper salts and pin holes developed where the pipes pass through the floor. You can see the leaking water from below but not from the laundry room level.

After one of two plumbers to replace one of the leaky pipes stated that at one point he felt a very mild electrically shock, I had an electrician check the system. The electrician said he could not find a problem. The electrician checked the system before and after the plumber felt the shock. We could not duplicate the shock with the plumber or the electrician.

The plumber reinstalled the three pipes and wrapped the new pipes in electrical tape at the point where the pipes go through the floor.

Since we have not yet found a source of electrical charge would it be prudent to ground the copper line to an unused galvanized pipe so any current would flow to the unused galvanized pipe? Any help would be appreciated.

Greg Butts
- Stafford, Virginia
(2007)

Q.When copper pipes are plastered over into walls do they need to be protected from corrosion either by cement or plaster?

Mrs M Bridger
Homeowner - Steyning, West Sussex, England
(2007)

Q.I have a brick wall in my bathroom and want to cut a groove in the brick run the copper pipe inside and cement it back up. Will this have a long term effect on the pipe
thanks daz

Dario Ruberto
designer - Toronto, Canada
(2007)

Q.I have some questions regarding electrolysis, or galvanic corrosion between the copper and galvanized water pipes in my house. The house in on a municipal system and it is my understanding that acidic or soft water is not a problem in my area.

I have extremely low pressure in the upstairs bathrooms, and moderately low on the main floor kitchen. In my basement I have galvanized pipes coming in from the street, they supply the hot water heater, and they run the hot water for a few feet beyond the tank. At one point they are connected directly to copper pipes which take the hot and cold supply upstairs to the bathrooms.

I intend to replace the galvanized pipe, but I am trying to decide whether or not to replace the copper pipes going upstairs, and as well the hot water heater.

To make this decision I need to understand a little more about what is going on with the electrolysis. Before discussing the ramifications with the hot water heater, I have the following questions:

1. Where the galvanized and copper connect in the basement, does the electrolysis happen only locally? It seems that the electrons would travel only within the magnetic field created by the metals and therefore only affect the pipes within about a foot or so of the connection. Or, since the water exists through all the pipes, does the electrolysis affect the copper all the way to the upstairs bathrooms?
2. Once the galvanized pipe is removed, will the electrolysis cease? (I understand that new copper and old copper will also create electrolysis but I assume this condition is not as severe.)
3. I understand why galvanized pipe corrodes when coupled with copper but I don't understand why it is that the galvanized pipe becomes filled with gunk on the inside and restricts flow, I would think the corroding would make it get slightly wider on the inside, not more narrow.
4. If I remove the galvanized pipe, can I clean out the remaining copper pipe to make sure there is no corrosive material setting in them? How is this performed?

As far as the hot water heater is concerned, galvanized pipe feeds it and takes the water out of it, however, there is copper flexible tubing that actually connects directly to it. I assume this means the heater has corrosive material in it and will likely not last as long. If I leave the existing heater in place and wait for it to fail, will it contaminate any new piping that I put in?

Also, if I run the new copper water service through the front yard within a few feet of the gas line will this cause electrolysis? If yes, will it affect the pipes inside the house or just in the front yard? Which pipe will get holes and which will narrow? Can I insulate the copper to prevent this?

Justin Zavislak
buyer, hobbyist - Seattle, Washington
July 13, 2008

Q.I have type k copper coming from the main to the shutoff in the house. after reporting a leak it was dug up to be repaired and all was found was a pipe with walls that have thinned considerably and covered in grooves resembling termite damage on wood. it was also riddled with pinholes.

the ground for my electrical is connected to this pipe. could that be a possible cause. please help. there other houses in the area that have had there lines replaced twice in the last 20 years.

thanks, cy

cyrus lambert
hobbyist - conne river, Newfoundland, Canada
July 20, 2008

A.Where I work they were having problems with the copper pipes. The anode rods in the water storage tanks had been all wore down. Plumbers found the electrical system grounding rod had been disconnected & everything was grounding through the plumbing, causing the problems. You might want to check but I think it is a code violation now to ground through your plumbing only.

Alex Hatfield
- Cedar Rapids, Iowa

August 30, 2008

Q.I have a problem identical to to the lead in this thread. Green spots on rigid type L 1/2 in copper pipe with water seepage. This 14+ ft run of pipe is leading from my gas fired hot water heater (after a few short copper fittings) across the drywall finished basement ceiling to a T that feeds hot water to most of the house. I noticed a small spot of mold on the ceiling, cut it open and found this pipe with green spots like the picture above and two of the spots (at different ends of this one section of pipe) have water seepage. There are several other copper pipes , cold water and feeds for hot water heating that have no green spots,(only this one length of hot water has the spots) and also a flexible gas line in the same bay. My fix is to replace this entire length. A difficult job for me, tight spaces overhead, and hope there are no other bad pipe in the house. Please confirm the cause of this. Is it likely to be elsewhere or reoccur?

David Goldman
- W Milford, New Jersey
September 3, 2008

A.In response to the gentleman who experienced a leak on a 1/2 copper pipe and then he split it exposing this thick green blob running on the inside for some unknown length. well from dealing with similar repairs and from years of experience in the field this green corrosion that you are talking about stands far from electrolysis. this green gunk/blob is what we use to solder/sweat our copper pipes with better known as FLUX this product is applied to the outside of the copper pipe once it has been cleaned and reamed. putting too much flux on the pipe and fitting will cause the excess to flow into the pipe and will settle on the inside of the pipe until the system gets energized and water flows flushing out the excess flux. if it was not flushed out and was left as is; guess what? call your plumber.....thanks.

Armando Olvera
- Costa Mesa, California

September 14, 2008

Q.Within the last 9 weeks we have called the plumber 3 times regarding a 4 ft. section of hot water copper piping. Each time a pinhole sealing leak about 4-6 feet away from a recently replaced(5 months ago that our plumber installed) electric hot water heater. After replacing 2 inch copper pipe sections at a time we finely asked him to change a length of pipe but, only last night we developed another leak, a foot over from the new pipe, closer to the water heater. Our house is 15 years old and we use city water. The leaky pipe had green discoloration at the leak points. The plumber says this problem could be expected in this area in homes using well water after about 20 years due to the highly acidic soil but we use city water and our pipes are in the sealing. He's suggesting we may need to replace all of our pipes but it seems strange that the leaks are all near the water heater. Could the water heater be faulty or it's installation be the problem?

Chris McQuillen
homeowner - Crescent City, California
September 14, 2008

A.Hi, Chris. I'd be pretty confident that is has to do with something electrical rather than well water. I think I'd call an electrician rather than calling the plumber again.

Regards,

Ted Mooney, finishing.com
Teds signature
Ted Mooney, P.E. RET
finishing.com
Pine Beach, New Jersey

(2005)September 30, 2008

Q.can a copper water line be spliced to an existing galvanized water pipe line?

Keith Medved
- Dyer, Indiana

A.Hi, Keith. When you transition from one kind of metal pipe to another, the correct thing to do is to use dielectric unions =>

These are unions that include a plastic insulator so there is no metal-to-metal contact. I'm not saying that this is always done, but it is the right way to insure that there can be no galvanic corrosion.

Regards,

Ted Mooney, finishing.com
Teds signature
Ted Mooney, P.E. RET
finishing.com
Pine Beach, New Jersey

October 24, 2008

Q.How can one determine the cause of frequent deterioration of a 3/4" copper water supply line? The section going bad is located underground at the block wall of the foundation. The home owner had to replace this line two times within the past year. The deterioration seems to occur on the outside of the pipe. There were no problems prior to the first replacement of this pipe section 9 months ago. The home has city water and uses a sump pump due to a high level of ground water. I don't know the pH level of the water. The basement is dry, but uses on a "floating slab" to channel away the ground water. I conducted load tests of the electric panel to verify the electric wiring. All tests proved satisfactory with only about .2 amps or less flowing to the ground wire. This is when a 35 amp load is applied to each 120 volt leg. This proves that practically all current is flowing back through the neutral conductor. The electric service is lacking the required two, 8 foot ground rods. There is only one ground rod, and it appears to have been installed as a ground for the telephone system. At this point I'm thinking the corrosion and deterioration was not caused by excessive current flowing top ground via this water supply line.

Dave Baylor
- Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
May 22, 2009

Q.Hi, Our house is 6 years old and from the time we moved in we have had this "green" problem. It has ruined my hair and has left stains in the sinks and toilets. We have had 2 different water softeners and 2 water heaters. We discussed this with the last water softener person and I guess they didn't have a clue about this problem. No one has until I
talked to some nerd at the company that tests the water for the city. He said that it was probably because of the fittings that the water softener company put on the copper pipes and if we didn't rectify the problem, we would eventually have pin size holes in the pipes and leaks! What do we do, who do we call and how do we go about fixing this problem! I want long hair again! Thanks!

Kathy L. Maxwell
- Grover Beach, California
December 8, 2009

A.While replacing the copper piping in a 150 year old home, I was puzzled by the green buildup inside of the pipe. Tracing the pipe I discovered that a ground clamp and wire from the circuit breaker box was connected to the cold water line 15' from the water meter where a jumper wire was also connected to the pipe from the street. In the circuit breaker box the Neutral buss was bonded to the Ground buss. That was okay. I also checked the sub panel to make sure the Ground buss and Neutral buss were not connected.

The wire mains from the electrical meter are aluminum. Current will find the least path of resistance, therefore current leakage to the piping is occurring. The remedy for this is to drive a conductive rod into the ground as deep as local code requires and connect a ground wire. Additionally I moved the ground clamp to the incoming side of the water meter, and removed the grounding jumper. As the water meter has dielectric connections the leakage can not return into the water piping since it is no longer grounded.

Bert Cooper
Equipment Designer - Williamsport, Pennsylvania

June 11, 2010

Q.Type K soft copper pinholes. We are having numerous issues with 3/4" and 1" and even a couple 2" services running from the mainline in the street to the property. 10 years ago or so we started having pinhole leaks appear on the copper always next to a flaired fitting so naturally everyone blamed it on a bad flair, then the specs changed and we were allowed to use compression fittings. This is now happening with the compression fittings as well, now everyone is blaming it on not de-burring the copper properly.

We just had to dig up a leak and found the pinhole leak in the middle of the 1" copper run (no fittings even close) and the copper was in a 4" sleeve under a major street which would eliminate the corrosive soil theory which the supplier will want to use, also the leak was on the top of the copper so a rubbing situation is not the answer. I have a question, is it possible for the copper at the time of production to have impurities introduced causing an electrolysis situation? Do you know of any other town having this problem. The suppliers here have no idea and have never even heard of this problem before which I find hard to believe. Thank you for your time and opinion

Bill Williams
water company - Tucson, Arizona
September 9, 2010

Q.I have recently installed and new water softener with an aerater in my home. My home is 26 years old and several weeks after the installation I noticed a blueish/green tint. I have had the water tested and the copper level is high, can the new system cause this?

Rachele Cancia
home owner -Sunrise, Florida
November 26, 2010

Q.I had an odd situation and was wondering if there is a known reason.
Last evening we noticed water dripping from the ceiling. Upon cutting open the ceiling, I noticed that the 3/4 hot water heating pipe (not sure if supply or return) was pressing firmly against the 1/2 hot water supply pipe, and that a leak had developed in the (smaller) hot water pipe where they touched. Fortunately, the heating pipe was connected to flexible copper to go up through the floor, and I was able to push the pipes apart and repair the supply line easily, but I am concerned what might have caused this leak.

Mike Paulson
former kitchen contractor, retired -falls church, Virginia

December 17, 2010

Below is an excerpt from Wikipedia's "Tap Water" page at en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tap_water

"Pin-hole leaks can occur anytime copper piping is improperly grounded and/or bonded; nonmetal piping, such as Pex or PVC, does not suffer from this problem. The phenomenon is known technically as stray current corrosion or electrolytic pitting. Pin-holing due to poor grounding or poor bonding occurs typically in homes where the original plumbing has been modified; homeowners may find a new plastic water filtration device or plastic repair union has interrupted the water pipe's electrical continuity to ground when they start seeing pinhole water leaks after a recent install. Damage occurs rapidly, usually being seen about six months after the ground interruption."

Q.So if I understand this correctly, adding a union may cause this problem? How does one connect copper pipe to galvanized steel then, or how to bond from copper pipe (cold water line, for example) to iron pipe (gas line, for example)? What materials is the bond conductor made of?

Andy Roberts
-Maynard, Massachusetts

May 13, 2011

A.I have seen electrolysis occur with galv. steel straps, hangers and supports, with copper. It usually occurs at the point.
Pin Hole leaks are mostly caused by incorrect installation of plumbing pipes.
For example, If a plumber uses a pipe cutter, to cut a pipe, it leaves a ridge on the inside of the pipe. This causes a ripple in the flow of water going through the pipe, and will eventually start eating away at the pipe, from the inside out. This was a common occurrence back when track homes were booming, and the track rats were doing high volume production, and not installing correctly.
You can verify this, by separating the pipes at the soldered joint, and stick you finger in the pipe and feel the edge. If you feel a sharp edge, then the fitter never filed the inside edge to remove this. Which this is why it will happen in multiple places in your home. Also the reason it happens more to cold water lines, is because you use your cold water more that your hot.

Keith Van Aalst

-Anaheim California


February 3, 2012 -- this entry appended to this thread by editor in lieu of spawning a duplicative thread

Q.I need to run natural gas to an outside heater. I have a 3/4" gal water line which is no longer used, am hoping to run type 'L' flex 1/2" copper line thru this line to supply gas to out side heater, is that possible or is there something I could wrap the copper with to make it work?

Bob Hendrickson
-Pontiac, Illinois, USA
February 25, 2012

Q.I have a bunch of copper fittings. 1/2", 3/4" & 1"; I had the fittings for a year or more. Some of the fittings are starting to get corrosion on them, a greenish thick coating. What is causing this and how do I control/stop it. All the fittings are new and never used.

Ken Kramlich
-Sacramento, California, USA
February 27, 2012

A.Hi, Ken.

Copper corrodes, but usually not that quickly. The simplest fix is probably to put them in a plastic bag with desiccant. Sodium benzotriazole is a copper preservative. You can use brass lacquer if you are trying to protect them for artistic rather than functional use. Good luck.

Regards,

Ted Mooney, finishing.com
Teds signature
Ted Mooney, P.E. RET
finishing.com
Pine Beach, New Jersey

December 18, 2012

A. After reading all of the postings about plumbing -
There are a lot of factors to touch on.

Any type of pipe can be connected to a different type of pipe with the right connectors that can be found at big box or good hardware store.

The green spots inside or outside of a copper pipe is cause by Flux.
Flux is an acid that is used by plumbers when the copper piped is fitted together and soldered.
When a plumber puts too much flux on the copper fittings or pipe - It stays inside the pipe and causes the pipe and or fittings to corrode because the water does not get hot enough to melt flux in order to get it flushed out of the pipe or fittings.
Even if you air pressure out the lines, all of the flux will not move out of the copper pipe because flux is a paste, and what little amount of flux that does move will stick to any joining type of Copper or Plastic or PVC or Galvanized pipe or fittings.
Green spots on the outside of a copper pipe or fittings usually means the plumber did not wipe off any left over flux on the out side of the copper pipe or fittings, or the copper pipe has started to corrode from the inside out from using too much flux inside the pipe and the flux has made its way to the outside of the copper pipe or fittings and needs to be replaced.

As far as electric or electric ground going through copper - Electricity will slowly soften up the excess flux that was used on the copper pipe or fittings.
As the flux softens, and because Flux is an acid, it will slowly break down the copper pipe or fittings and needs to be replaced.

NOTE:
Most electric or electric ground going through a copper pipe is not a high enough voltage to melt flux -- it will only soften the flux.

NOTE:
If your phone line is grounded to the copper line then this alone is enough to soften the flux.
If you put some flux on both the neg. and pos. post of a small charged 9 volt battery you will find that the flux will soften.
If you leave the flux on the battery the flux will corrode the battery because flux is an acid.

NOTE:
If your phone or cable is grounded to your copper pipe this is enough electric for a person to get a small shock when touching the copper pipe.
After a person touches the pipe and gets a small shock, it takes quite a while for the electric to build back up because the voltage is quite low.
It is because the voltage is so low that when a person touches a copper pipe and gets a small shock you have depleted the electric in the copper pipe and a shock will not happen again until the electric builds back up in the copper pipe.

NOTE:
Anytime you have to run a copper pipe behind a wall that will be closed in, only use HARD copper pipe (NOT ROLLED TUBING OR SOFT TUBING). Place the copper pipe inside of a piece of PVC pipe and do not have any fittings or couplings that have been soldered inside the PVC pipe.
If you need to soldier on fittings - Solder the fittings on after you have cleared the wall that will be closed in. It will also be helpful to use liquid foam between the copper pipe and the PVC pipe to stop any pipes from clanking when the water is turned on or off. You can pre make up the pipe with the foam in order to let the liquid foam set up.

I hope this information is helpful.

Jim Drake
- Fredericksburg, Virginia, USA

April 20, 2013

A.To those dismissing the "green blobs" as residual flux are not understanding what I think are the inquisitors' issues. We built our home in 2004 and within a couple of years we started experiencing problems in our master shower. Initially, I was able to disassemble the hot water supply in the manifolds and clear out the green "blobbish" crystals. Our master shower is large and has multiple shower heads and two shower manifolds. Since then the problem appear to only exist in the master bath "hot" water lines. I have never had any issue with the cold water lines.

To give a little more detail. The green blobs I am experiencing a hard crystals and not any type of pasty or flux consistency. I have found galvanized steel nipples between the copper supply lines and the brass shower fittings. Two years ago the galvanized nipple on the shower with the most serious blockage, had nearly corroded away completely. Fortunately I had decided inspect the inside of the shower wall after suspecting some sort of "electronic" cause. This morning I found the same union on the second shower head that is now almost completely blocked.

I should have recognized something was wrong in the construction of our plumbing lines during the build simply because of the sloppy solder joints. I have a rudimentary knowledge of plumbing as my father was a plumber. Unfortunately, I was traveling extensively and didn't have time to address the bootleg plumbers my builder contracted.
I guess I was depending on the inspectors to alert us of any issues, but I have learned that lesson.

In summary, I would conclude that the green crystals are formed from kind electric current activity in addition to the hardness of your water. Our municipal water is very hard and my water softener is worthless so we are going to rip out the bathroom walls to see what other surprises we have in store and get a new water softening system.

Vaughn Broadnax
- Carmel, Indiana, USA

copper pipe secured with metal straps
May 21, 2013

Q.During a bathroom remodel, the plumber used some metal strapping (likely galvanized steel)to further secure the copper piping from the shower valve to the shower outlet. (see photo) Days later, my contractor had secured a loose toilet supply valve with a plastic part and explained that a metal material could negatively interact with the copper and eventually cause a leak. (I think he himself had just come upon this info when he went to home depot to pick-up the part.)
I then remembered seeing how the plumber used the metal strapping to basically tie back the copper piping. The wall has since been scratch coated and is about to be floated. I've alerted my contractor about this and am awaiting a reply. I really do not want the float to happen until I know for sure that there is definitely no problem with the set-up, or, until it is corrected. Any input on this would greatly be appreciated.

Jack Goldstein
- Mission Viejo, California, USA

May 22, 2013

A.Hi Jack. You need 3 things for galvanic corrosion:
- dissimilar metals so there is an inherent voltage between them,
- metallic contact path between the two metals so that electrons can flow from one metal to the other,
- a moist and conductive ionic path so that positively charged ions can follow the electrons, transporting atoms of metal from one point to another.

You certainly have the first two, but whether the third condition is met well enough for serious concern is always the question, and sometimes hard to define. When such a condition is sealed behind a wall, it sounds to me like poor practice -- then again, I'm not a plumber. You might see if you can find anything in the plumbing code about it. The problem would have been easy to avoid with any kind of plastic between the pipe and strap; you can hopefully get a scrap of Visqueen in between them without much damage to the wall. Good luck.

Regards,

Ted Mooney, finishing.com
Teds signature
Ted Mooney, P.E. RET
finishing.com
Pine Beach, New Jersey

June 3, 2013

Q.Having pin hole issues on the cold water line repeatedly over approx. 8 years -- same area.
The house used to have copper pipe coming in from the street and we did not have a ground strap on it. I can see how the pin holes would happen then. Then the copper pipe was replaced with PVC out to the street so there seemed to be no need for the ground on the street side of the meter, but I left the ground connected on the house side (still copper here). Was this wrong? Still another pin hole problem this year.
Tired of water leaks, Tom

Tom Canarecci
- Mishawaka, Indiana, USA
July 11, 2013

Q.We have an apartment building that keeps getting leaks in the first apartment. I have read everything and understand the problem, but we don't have money to replace all the pipes, so every few months there is a leak. The last time we had to replace all the carpet because it was leaking over a full weekend.

I have been told by one plumber that he heard of a product that can be put in the pipes that would coat the insides and help prevent the pinholes from developing.
Is there any such product?

Also someone told me of a product that can be painted on the pipes like a silicone or latex component that might be able to help.

If you know of any products like this that I can try, please let me know.

Thank you.

Lisa Keylon
- Fountain Valley, California, USA
February 11, 2016

Q. I just noticed there is corrosion at the elbo 90 connector of hot water copper pipe going out of water heater. Both are copper pipes - so wondering what's causing the corrosion. Otherwise I'm planning to
Simply planning to use fix-it stick/Keeny pipe wrap tape as temporary fix until I get time to call plumber to cut the pipe and rejoin.
Please advise:
1) is it ok to fix temporarily
2) if I need to dig in further to find the cause before I fix it.
3) are there any other things I need to check / replace while I'm fixing it.
Btw- this is house is 10 yrs old.

Venu Reddy
- Waukee, Iowa

April 8, 2016

A. You can also use a brass nipple between copper and galvanize .

Rodolfo ruiz
- Pasadena California usa
April 2016

thumbs up signThanks, Rudolfo. Yes, you can use a brass nipple between them ... but I don't think it will do much towards stopping galvanic corrosion.

Regards,

pic of Ted Mooney
Ted Mooney, P.E. RET
finishing.com
Pine Beach, New Jersey
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