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Tuesday, March 14, 2017

Luxe baths evolve into personal spas

Read article : Luxe baths evolve into personal spas

Settle in and have your achy muscles caressed. Breathe fragrant aromas of eucalyptus, lavender, sandalwood or grapefruit. Listen to Bach, Beethoven or cool jazz, and melt away stress in a steam shower.

Pamper yourself. You know you want to, and there’s no need to travel to an exotic location. Today’s luxe bath can be your own personal spa and so much more.

Like uber thread counts that determine a bed sheet’s degree of luxury, the number of jets and how many nozzles control the dance of water now are deciding factors in upgrading shower and tub features.

Even the lexicon has changed. Today’s home spa emphasizes hydrotherapy, and there is nothing ordinary about it. The water is healing and magical because of amazing technology.

“It’s all about de-stressing,” says Ann Roever, senior product manager of bathing products for Kohler Co.

Beyond the whirlpool, the choices today are dizzying. Consider how soothing or invigorating a massage you want. Then think about whether you want to add chromatherapy, which allows bathing in a pool of changing hues, or aromatherapy in a range of scents.

Showers simulating rain that virtually massages the body were a novelty a few years ago, but today most manufacturers offer at least one model. The German manufacturer Dornbracht offers a large rectangular rain shower that recesses into the ceiling and adjusts from the equivalent of a drizzle to a tropical downpour.

Hansgrohe’s Raindance Rainmaker features a “three-whirl massage” that goes from droplets to intense spray, plus four mood lights and two air-spray modes. It sells for just under $3,100 and looks like a futuristic feature from a spacecraft.

There now are WaterTiles, a Kohler trademark, which come in fetching square or round shapes, recessed for a cleaner look. Some are even directional, allowing adjustment of the spray to targeted areas. One of Kohler’s newest products is a sexy shower wand that provides a rain-like spray.

Glass showerheads offer another attractive design option in today’s home spa. Like other bathroom hardware, showerheads also are available in a range of finishes, including polished and satin nickel as well as oil-rubbed bronze. High-end models cost several hundred dollars apiece.

With so many body sprays, the inside of a shower these days may resemble a car wash. It’s not surprising that there’s a trend to open up the space and make it unencumbered even by glass doors, conforming to barrier-free universal principles. One of the more elaborate shower towers, the Waterhaven by Kohler, features seven water “ports,” a two- arched telescoping shower head, four movable body sprays and one handheld shower wand for $7,260.

Methven, an Australian company, this summer is introducing a spa experience called “shower infusions.” The infusions come from a small cartridge that fits into the base of a handheld shower wand, permeating the space with aromas as it hydrates. There are four flavors: Lift (a combination of grapefruit and pomegranate), Fresh (green tea and peppermint), Bliss (jasmine and ylang ylang, a tropical Asian tree) and Balance (lavender and vanilla).

Another company, Mr. Steam, offers in-shower music therapy speakers, aromatherapy and mood lighting.

The tub, as well as the shower, is not lacking bells and whistles. There’s the air bath that offers the champagne equivalent of tiny bubbles, which creates a soothing to invigorating massage. Some compare the air bath to bathing in hot springs. Or you can choose a soaking tub, a deeper tub also known as a Japanese bath.

Tubs no longer need to be tethered to a wall. Freestanding tubs in the middle of a room add a new dynamic to the bath. With crisp, angular lines or sculptural curves, these baths are showstopping artistic architectural centerpieces in an interior. One design from Agape resembles an enormous shallow bowl.

In an effort to stimulate the senses, MTI Whirlpool’s Stereo Water is an invisible audio system that delivers sound through the tub. State- of-the-art speakers are acoustic “transducers,” applied to the bath shell’s exterior surface near the waterline. The sound is evenly distributed within the tub, enveloping the bather in sounds of choice, from rousing rock to a calming concerto, according to the company.

Many tub extras can be monitored with the touch of a button on a control with digital readout. Some companies even offer remote controls that are submersible so you don’t have to lift your hand out of the water. Perhaps even more welcome are devices that baffle the sound created by whirlpool jets.

Of course, there are dozens of spa bath accessories, including ergonomically designed backrests and armrests, some heated to soothe tired muscles, neck massagers (Jacuzzi’s Fuzion 7242 whirlpool offers a cascading neck-massaging waterfall), heaters in tubs that keep warm water at a constant temperature, anti-fog mirrors and towel-warming drawers. Even pet spas manufactured by MTI Whirlpool are part of the mix.

As in other areas of the home, the emphasis these days is on customization. Pearl Baths Inc. offers “recipes” for specific therapies that direct sound, light and type of massage. SilverTag provides a computer-controlled environment with 18 showerheads and 30 shower frequencies, programmable with a touch screen. The price is staggering; it sells for about $100,000.

Bath design really began to evolve in the 1980s, when almost any room that was a candidate for remodeling got supersized. With an emphasis on health, fitness and cocooning, whirlpools were the centerpiece of the movement, with big tubs for two persons among the hot features. Footprints expanded, with space carved from extra bedrooms to create giant havens for relaxation, often with separate walk-in showers.

The trend took off in the ’90s, with more attention focused on healthy eating and exercise. Bath design continued to upgrade, and everyone wanted cabinetry that resembled furniture.

Recreating the day spa, or travel experiences at spas in luxury resorts, seems to be driving the 21st-century sanctuaries.

“With a day at the spa costing $400 or more, you can invest this money in your home and benefit over the long haul,” says Kohler’s Ann Roever.

The clean lines of the latest tubs and showerheads call out for a more minimal design style. Decorative accessories, furniture and fancy accoutrements (like dripping crystal chandeliers) arrived in the ’80s and still show up in traditional luxury baths, but the spa bath has taken on a decidedly more Spartan look.

The spa bath often features Zen-like environments. Vanities, basins and other furnishings often seem to float. Even toilets have morphed into more stylish forms, some more sculptural, such as rounded models recently introduced by Villeroy and Boch. Natural stones play a role; river rocks sometimes decorate tub surrounds and areas around showers.

Some detractors say the current spa trend smacks of hedonism and narcissism. A brochure from Pearl Baths suggests basking in a tub “reminiscent of Cleopatra” by adding flower petals or two cups of milk to the water. Still, there are therapeutic benefits. Bubbles promote circulation, and music and candles can be soothing.

“We think of the home spa as a place to relax, refresh, rejuvenate and retreat,” Roever says.

Thursday, July 13, 2017

The latest dining chairs

Read article : The latest dining chairs

Save money on your bathroom renovation with these tips and advice from industry experts. Includes advice on design, planning and choosing your materials.

Scroll down to read more or jump to a topic from the list below…

‘Keep your existing layout and consider functionality’

Nick Rowland, product manager at Heritage Bathrooms says: ‘The key to a successful renovation project is planning. As soon as you start repositioning plumbing the job can become very expensive, so stick to the existing layout if possible.

‘Although installers can find great deals, do your own research as well to see what other bargains are out there. Ask yourself whether you need the installer to fit the whole bathroom. What could you do yourself? Picking up the smaller, less technical tasks, such as hanging mirrors, putting up towel rails and painting walls, can lead to considerable savings. Check whether a “good price” really is value for money – does it offer quality? Will the product stand the test of time? Is it guaranteed by the manufacturer?

‘The only area where you may want to consider cutting corners by spending less is on fittings without a working function. For example, static pieces, such as a basin and pedestal, are only required to hold water and allow it to drain away. In contrast, the WC has more moving parts and the pan and cistern need to operate properly for years to come. With this in mind, I recommend only buying a WC from a recognised manufacturer that will understand its functional needs and will carefully manage the manufacturing process to ensure that the cistern and pan do not leak.

‘A bath needs to be robust enough to hold your weight as well as the water. If you are satisfied that this basic requirement has been met then you won’t need to spend money on baths with additional reinforcement, which have little benefit for domestic use.’
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‘Consider what you can do for yourself’

Jamey Seaman, bathroom expert at Ikea says: ‘There are many ways to make your budget go that bit further when it comes to improving your bathroom. It’s surprising just how much work you can do by yourself. Save money by purchasing ready-to-assemble basin and bathroom cabinets, and avoid paying someone else to fix units to the wall.

‘You can also make savings by buying a complete set of bathroom furniture, including a basin, cabinet and mirror, rather than individual pieces, which could cost more. You don’t have to blow your budget on bathroom storage all at once. Start by fitting storage beneath and above the sink and add more at a later date when you have the time and budget.’
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White and grey bathroom suite; Bathroom sanitaryware
ABOVE (left-right): Venice shower-bath, (H)47x(W)85x(L)170cm, £525; basin and pedestal, (H)85x(W)60x (D)45cm, £273; close-coupled WC, (H)83x (W)36.5x(D)63cm, with cistern and soft-close seat, £432, all from the Zaar collection at Heritage Bathrooms; Godmorgon/Vitviken washstand with two drawers and porcelain basin, (H)66x(W)63x(D)49cm, £170; Dalskar chrome-plated basin mixer tap, (H)18cm, £65; Godmorgon mirror cabinet, (H)96x(W)60x(D)14cm, £180; high cabinets, (H)192x(W)40x(D)30cm, £150 each, all Ikea.

‘Mix inexpensive ceramic tiles with luxury mosaics’

Beth Boulton, head of marketing at Topps Tiles says: ‘Instead of tiling an entire room in expensive mosaics, keep down costs by using them sparingly as a feature wall or to zone a shower area.

‘With the latest advancements in the ceramic printing process, there are now ceramic tiles available featuring highly realistic interpretations of natural stone, marble and wood. By cutting sheets of tiles in half or into strips to create a vertical feature behind a basin, or a horizontal statement around a bath and corner of a shower, you can make a real impact without overspending.’
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‘Spend wisely and look out for bargains’

Rob Whitaker, brand director at Fired Earth says: ‘In general, you will get what you pay for. While cheaper products may look very similar to more expensive equivalents, they’re unlikely to have the same quality of finish or to last as long. For example, the chrome on very inexpensive taps may start to peel, or the surface of a bath may be more likely to crack or stain, so it is worth spending as much as you can afford to save money in the long term.

‘Think about installing a shower over the bath rather than building a separate shower area. As well as saving on product and installation costs, this is a good space-saving solution, too. If you would love a classic, freestanding cast-iron bath but it is beyond your budget, a bath made from a resin and stone composite is a great, cost-effective alternative. Factory shops often have fantastic bargains, so it’s well worth paying them a visit. If you can, it’s a good idea to wait for the winter and summer sales as the discounts on large items such as baths, washstands and boxes of tiles can be considerable.’
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Mosaic bathroom tiles; Freestanding roll-top bath; Black and white bathroom suite
ABOVE (left-right): Glossy flat ceramic wall tiles in white, (W)20x(L)25cm, £7.60 per m²; Slate square glass mosaic tiles in silver, £13.99 for a (W)30x(L)30cm sheet; large-format Crystal porcelain floor tiles in white, (W)44x (L)44cm, £49.54 per m², all Topps Tiles; Flow roll-top bath, made from resin and ground stone with chrome feet, painted in Mercury Eggshell, (H)66x (W)80x(L)175cm, £1,650; Avebury bath and shower mixer tap, (H)42x (W)18x(D)20cm, £1,125; Abbey Fountains porcelain floor tiles, (W)19.9x (L)19.9cm, £74.70 per m², all Fired Earth; Athena Black 1700 freestanding bath with chrome feet, (H)56x(W)75x(L)170cm, £349.95; Modena 60 Semi Pedestal bathroom suite with ceramic basin (H)48x(W)58.5x(D)39.5cm, and ceramic WC, (H)83.5x (W)37x(D)65cm, £179.95, all Better Bathrooms.

‘Think about selling your old suite’

Joe Cummings, product advisor at Better Bathrooms says: ‘The rising popularity of auction sites has provided a fantastic platform for selling secondhand items. Any unwanted fixtures in good condition are worth selling, from taps and basins to tiles. This is the perfect way to recoup some of the expense you have lavished on your new bathroom.

‘Labour costs are the greatest outlay in any renovation project, so try doing some of the work yourself. Demolition and debris removal, along with tiling and brassware installation are simple jobs even for the most novice of DIYers. There are installation videos on the Better Bathrooms website (betterbathrooms.com) offering step-by-step guidance on how to install a range of sanitaryware in your home yourself, including shower enclosures, basins and baths. This will help to eliminate high-cost construction bills. However, it’s not always a good idea to undertake all of the work a bathroom renovation entails yourself – this can end up costing you more rather than saving money. Large, technical jobs, including any changes in plumbing, will require experienced tradespeople, so shop around in order to find the right person for the task. You will need someone you trust who will do the job at the right price. Acquiring multiple quotes from different contractors will not only give you an estimate of the cost of the work, but will ensure the price is fair and help with your planning.’
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‘Research affordable options for flooring’

David Snazel, buyer at Carpetright says: ‘Updating your bathroom flooring doesn’t necessarily mean you’ll have to lay out a huge amount of money. If you like the look of stone or hardwood floors, but want a more practical and affordable option, it’s certainly worth considering vinyl. Functional yet stylish, vinyl is waterproof, remarkably durable and comes in a variety of styles – from natural wood and classic tiles to modern patterned designs – making it the ideal bathroom flooring solution.’
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‘Never cut corners when it comes to brassware’

Leanne Robey, senior designer at Ripples says: ‘There are lots of ways to save on a bathroom project, but you should always invest in quality brassware as this includes the items that are in use every day, in particular concealed valves that regulate the temperature of the water in your home.

‘Always buy a good quality showerhead, especially if you prefer to take a shower than a bath, and look for “rub clean” showerheads with easy-clean nozzles that will prevent the build-up of limescale – great if you live in a hard-water area.

‘For further savings choose an eco-friendly showerhead with a sophisticated flow restrictor, various jet options and air infusion, which all work together to cut your water consumption by up to 60 per cent. This will help keep down water costs and will also cut energy bills, as less water will need to be heated.’
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Wood finish vinyl bathroom flooring; Shower tiles and brassware
ABOVE (left-right): Urban Planks vinyl flooring in Eden Walnut 857, £44.99 per m², from the Tegola range at Carpetright; Crema Marfil marble wall tiles, (W)30x (L)60cm, £68 per m²; Fairfield easy-clean showerhead, (dia.)20cm, and arm, (L)41cm, £433; ¾-inch concealed flow control stop valve, £292; thermostat, £675, all Ripples.

All prices and stockists correct at time of publishing

Tuesday, February 28, 2017

Home Renovation for the Golden Years

Read article : Home Renovation for the Golden Years

“I never had to use the bar until now, but I’m grateful it was already there,” he said.

More than one out of four Americans age 65 and older fall each year and one in five falls cause serious injury, according to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention. The city Department for the Aging said there were nearly one million adults age 65 and older living in the five boroughs of New York in 2010, but that number is expected to rise to about 1.35 million in 2030. As the city’s population ages, officials are urging homeowners and landlords to make age-in-place fixes.

“Something as simple and cost-effective as installing a grab bar can prevent debilitating falls and literally save lives,” said Donna M. Corrado, the commissioner of the Department for the Aging.

More than 85 percent of older Americans want to stay in their current home rather than move elsewhere, a 2010 survey by AARP found.

Iraida Gonzalez, 68, is one of them. She wants to live for as long as she can in Northern Manhattan in a building that is part of the Fort George Vistas NORC, an acronym for Naturally Occurring Retirement Community.

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A movable island is among the suggestions for a kitchen that is wheelchair- and walker-friendly. This kitchen was designed by Victor A. Mirontschuk and is in the Criterion in Jersey City.Credit Victor A. Mirontschuk

Ms. Gonzalez and her husband, Serafin Baldera, 73, have had numerous health problems, including temporary sight loss, diabetes, arthritis and carpal tunnel syndrome. She used to grab the towel rack in the bathroom to help her get around. “It was scary because I knew it wasn’t the best thing to use,” she said.

Ms. Gonzalez recently received three free grab bars, a sturdy bathmat with suction cups to prevent it from moving, and some night lights, thanks to a grant secured by Isabella Geriatric Center, the nonprofit group that operates the NORC program in her building.

The organization worked with students from the Columbia University School of Nursing to conduct home assessments to identify residents at risk for falls based on their medications, medical history, level of activity and fall history. Then Charles Morano, a physical therapist and the owner of Morano Rehabilitation Home Services in Manhattan, conducted home safety assessments for the individuals found to be in danger.

Workers installed grab bars for Iris Boteler, 99, who said she had difficulty walking because of arthritis and other ailments. “You need things to support you,” said Ms. Boteler, who has lived in her building, also a part of the Fort George Vistas NORC, for about 45 years.

Depending on the items used, minor modifications can cost from several hundred to about $2,000. But if you have more money to spend, customization is key, said Barbara S. Roth, an interior designer and a founder of Camille Rossy, a design firm in Manhattan.

Photo
The aging-in-place renovations undertaken by Joyce Jed and Arnold Wendroff include an open kitchen and living area.Credit Emon Hassan for The New York Times

Ms. Roth described a client — a woman in her early 50s with multiple sclerosis — who wanted more cabinet space for her small, dated Murray Hill kitchen. But a place for a stool near the stove and counter was deemed as important as storage because it was getting harder for the woman to stand for long periods.

Although no one likes to talk about age, health and physical disabilities, Ms. Roth said it is important to discuss these issues so an expensive renovation doesn’t become obsolete in a few years.

Because the client’s illness can lead to blurred or double vision, Ms. Roth also talked about installing extra lights and the importance of color contrast in the kitchen so the client could easily determine where the stovetop ended and the counter began. Her client chose ivory and white for the kitchen cabinets and backsplash, and black for the stove top.

“The goal was to not make the new kitchen look institutional,” she said.

For large or open kitchens, installing a movable island, either on wheels or with legs that have felt on the bottom, can be an easy addition, said Victor A. Mirontschuk, an architect and chairman of EDI International, an architectural firm with an office in Manhattan.

“Movable islands give people flexibility because you can push it out of the way,” to provide space when needed, he said, if a walker or wheelchair becomes necessary.

Photo
When renovating, Ms. Jed asked for a wide ledge around her bathtub so she can sit on it and “swing my legs over.”Credit Emon Hassan for The New York Times

Mr. Mirontschuk has designed movable islands for several multifamily developments. Although standard kitchen counters are about 36 inches in height, building an island at 34 inches or lower would also comply with regulations from the Americans With Disabilities Act, he added, because a lower counter works better for someone in a wheelchair.

Some people decide to make home modifications before the need arises.

Amy Lynn, 59, a benefits administrator for the town of New Canaan, Conn., said she had been waiting for years to redo two dated bathrooms in her raised ranch in Monroe, Conn. So when Ms. Roth advised her to shop for grab bars and a comfort-height toilet, which is about two inches higher than a regular toilet and makes the sitting-to-standing motion easier, as well as for new tiles and a sink, she was surprised.

“I just wanted new bathrooms, so I wasn’t thinking about what happens when we get older,” Ms. Lynn said. But with her knees already bothering her, the additions now “makes complete sense” and cost her only an additional few hundred dollars.

Ms. Lynn said she spent about $12,000 to renovate two bathrooms. Her master bathroom has a new shower stall with a built-in corner seat, a removable shower head and niches so shampoo bottles are kept off the floor. The other bathroom still has a tub, but the old glass door was removed and replaced with a shower curtain.

A walk-in shower is ideal for people with leg and vision problems, since it gets harder to step in and out of a tub as you age, said Chrysanne Eichner, a senior occupational therapist at Memorial Sloan Kettering Cancer Center in Manhattan.

Photo
A pullout kitchen drawer with pegs and a removable caddy from Häfele allow easy access to dishes.Credit Dan Smith

Building industry professionals are taking note. Since the National Association of Home Builders started to offer a Certified Aging-in-Place Specialist program in 2002, nearly 7,000 contractors, architects, interior designers and occupational therapists have become credentialed by attending a three-day course, according to Elizabeth Thompson, a spokeswoman for the association.

Erik Listou, a founder of the Living in Place Institute, a professional training firm, said about 200 people have taken its Certified Living in Place Professional class, which started about a year ago. The firm offers the two-day program nationwide.

“These certifications bring industry professionals, like therapists, contractors and product makers to put ideas together” to make homes safe and accessible, Mr. Listou said.

Without divulging any specific data, Moen, a manufacturer of bathroom and kitchen products, said the market for its bath safety line has expanded over the past three years, after it started offering more stylish grab bars that match other bath products.

“When you remove the stigma that bath safety isn’t attractive, it invites consumers to purchase,” said Chris Nealon, a Moen product manager.

Photo
Iris Boteler, 99, lives in a NORC, or Naturally Occurring Retirement Community, in Northern Manhattan. She recently received a gift of grab bars through a nonprofit agency.Credit Emon Hassan for The New York Times

Joyce Jed and her husband, Arnold Wendroff, both 74, are ahead of the game at their home on the parlor and second floors of their three-story rowhouse in Park Slope, Brooklyn. Ms. Jed, a horticultural therapist, said she started to weary of the many steep steps she had to climb inside her home every day. If she is bothered now, she wondered, how would it be in a few more years?

Since the couple knew they wanted to stay in their home, they decided to spend about $150,000 to fix up their ground-floor space, which over the years had primarily been used to house visiting family and friends. They chose to widen a hallway and two doors, open the back room to install an open kitchen and living area, and add windows for more light, among other things. Ms. Jed said much of her focus was on the design of a new bathroom with a walk-in shower and a wide ledge on the side of the bathtub so she could sit and “swing my legs over” to get in.

Soon after the construction wrapped up in April, the couple’s granddaughter Alyssa Jed was accepted by the Fashion Institute of Technology as a freshman and needed a place in the city. So for now, she is enjoying living on the renovated ground floor. But her grandmother said she feels good knowing that the ground-floor apartment is in move-in condition for the day that she feels even less inclined to climb the stairs.

“It was a big undertaking, but I’m glad we did all of this while we’re spry and alert,” Ms. Jed said.

Renovations that help people’s mobility will reduce social isolation as we age, said Kimberly S. George, the executive director of Rebuilding Together NYC, a nonprofit that helps seniors and disabled low-income residents improve the accessibility of their homes.

“Ideally, you shouldn’t rely on family members or friends to help you get around the house,” she said. “You don’t want your own home to be a hazard.”

Correction: January 15, 2017

A cover article on Jan. 1 about home renovations that can help older residents stay in their homes misstated the length of a certification course offered by the National Association of Home Builders. It is a three-day course, not one-day.

Continue reading the main story

Tuesday, October 10, 2017

Global $83.41 Billion Ceramic Sanitary Ware Market, 2025

Read article : Global $83.41 Billion Ceramic Sanitary Ware Market, 2025

DUBLIN, August 24, 2017 /PRNewswire/ --

The "Global Ceramic Sanitary Ware Market Analysis & Trends - Industry Forecast to 2025" report has been added to Research and Markets' offering.

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The Global Ceramic Sanitary Ware Market is poised to grow at a CAGR of around 10.4% over the next decade to reach approximately $83.41 billion by 2025

This industry report analyzes the market estimates and forecasts of all the given segments on global as well as regional levels presented in the research scope. The study provides historical market data for 2014, 2015 revenue estimations are presented for 2016 and forecasts from 2017 till 2025. The study focuses on market trends, leading players, supply chain trends, technological innovations, key developments, and future strategies for the existing players, new entrants and the future investors.

Some of the prominent trends that the market is witnessing include surging demand for ceramic sanitary ware in Southeast Asian countries, government initiatives for promoting environmental sanitation across regions and innovations in the production of ceramic sanitary ware.

Scope of the Report

  • Based on application the market is categorized into residential and commercial.
  • Furthermore, residential divided into Multifamily and Single Family.
  • Commercial is categorized into institutional and retail, office, industrial and hospitality.
    By product, market is segregated into toilet sinks/water closets, wash basin, cisterns, shower plates, bathroom furniture accessories, bidets, urinals and other products.
  • Toilet sinks/water closets segment is further sub segmented into wall hung closets, two piece, European water closets (EWC), one piece and others toilet sinks/water closets.
  • Wash basin is further sub segmented into under counter basins, semi counter basins, counter top basins, wall mounting basins, pedestal basins, over counter basins, table top and corner.
  • Cisterns are categorized into high level cistern, close coupled cistern and low level cistern.
  • Bidets divided into rim-supply bidet and over-rim-supply bidet.
  • Based on technology the market is categorized into pressure casting, isostatic casting, slip casting and tape casting.

Key Topics Covered:

1 Market Outline

2 Executive Summary

3 Market Overview

4 Ceramic Sanitary Ware Market, By Application

5 Ceramic Sanitary Ware Market, By Product

6 Ceramic Sanitary Ware Market, By Technology

7 Ceramic Sanitary Ware Market, By Geography

8 Key Player Activities

9 Leading Companies

For more information about this report visit https://www.researchandmarkets.com/research/5d7wk7/global_ceramic

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Monday, May 22, 2017

Small Bathroom Darkroom Question - T-Shirt Forums

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Discuss the various aspects of screen printing. Inks, speciality printing, print locations, durability, etc.

Small Bathroom Darkroom Question

Old January 30th, 2010 Jan 30, 2010 5:00:29 PM -   #1 (permalink)

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Hello Everyone, Just for a heads up, I'm a total Noob.

I decided to try screen printing only as a hobby. I'm going to be using a small bathroom without a shower/tub as my darkroom because it's the only room without a window in the house. However, I can't figure out, after many hours of research, how to store the screens for emulsion drying in the dark room. I've seen many nice drying cabinets but all are too big for the room. I'm looking for something small and portable that will allow me to store the screens in a light safe environment so I can exit the room.

I'm contemplating buying a large plastic storage container (making it light safe) to store the screens flat but the container will not have any air flow to aid in the drying. Will that be an issue if I'm willing to wait 24 hrs?

Pending the successful answer to question #1 my next question is:
If I expose the screen in the dark room can I transport it to a non light safe bathroom for washout (approximately 30-45 secs) or will the emulsion harden before the washout is complete?

Any help is much appreciated!!!

 

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Old January 30th, 2010 Jan 30, 2010 5:10:04 PM -   #2 (permalink)

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Hey Steve! I'm new to screenprinting as well...but I have also been using a bathroom as a darkroom. I did all my emulsion coating and exposing at night so I wouldn't run into light issues. I also turn off all the lights in my house as well. I just put a towel on the counter and laid the screen on top with a fan blowing on it to dry. If the lights outside the bathroom are off you should be fine exiting the room.

As for your second question I don't think taking the screen to a non-light safe room to wash it out is a good idea...but I'm sure someone else can give you better insight to this question. The bathroom in the middle of my house doesn't have a window and has a shower so I just do everything in the bathroom.

 

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Old January 30th, 2010 Jan 30, 2010 5:28:45 PM -   #3 (permalink)

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I used tape rolls (3 inch masking tape, or what ever you use o mask your edges) to hold the screens up face down (One on each corner of the screen) while the emulsion dried with a fan facing them. Just stacked them on the floor. You can even stack multiple screens if you wanted to but have to be extremely careful!

My bathroom is also small bu I do have a shower in it so I didn't have to move the screens out. As long as you keep the emulsion away from direct UV light you should be okay though (complete darkness it not necessary)

Check out youtees if you haven't.

Good luck!

 

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Old January 30th, 2010 Jan 30, 2010 6:26:53 PM -   #4 (permalink)

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Been screen printing for about 6 years now and I don't have a dark room at all - never have. We use primarily cap film which exposes very quickly. In fact, screens with the Cap film expose in our screen exposer about 5 X faster then DXP coated t-shirt screens.

in either case ... I apply the cap film and the DXP with the lights on in the room. In there is a three 30 watt tube flourescent light.. not sure what type it is, but its the standard "office" type 24" fixture. There are no UV blockers on it. I've never had a problem with washout. While they dry, I do turn the lights off but they may see light for 5 - 10 minutes before that starts (I usually coat 4 - 5 screens at a time so the first one sits in the light while I do the others).

Now ... I'm not recommending that you do this. The point is that emulsion cures from UV light, not visible light. Different lamp types emit different amounts of UV so any given light may be a problem ... or it may not (regular incandescents can be a problem, but yellow bug lights generally are not). Even if you have windows in your house you may be able to carry coated screens around in front of them - most modern windows have UV films on them that keep the UV from the sun from coming into the house. If your windows have that then you're probably fairly well protected - I still wouldn't lean them against the glass to dry, but walking past them with no other protection isn't going to hurt. You can also get sleeves for your flourescent tubes that filter out all UV without blocking the visible. Most flourescents don't put out too much UV in the first place, but these sleeves get rid of all of it so you can leave the lights on all the time.

You'll want to limit exposure to light as much as possible, but generally speaking limited exposure probably won't hurt too much.

 

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Old January 31st, 2010 Jan 31, 2010 4:43:20 AM -   #5 (permalink)

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Kind of like an earlier post, in a small shop that I worked for we would coat the screens, put childrens blocks on the corners of the screens to keep them off the floor and separate from each other. We stacked them sometimes 8 high, then after they dried, put them in the box they came from for storage until they were used. Simple, cheap, worked just fine.

 

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Old January 31st, 2010 Jan 31, 2010 5:49:18 AM -   #6 (permalink)

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For a simple drying rack you can buy four 8 ' 2 x 4's (about $3 each). Take three of them and stand them tall. Put one in the corner of the room. The other two about 18" - 21" out from the corner (or farther if you use 30" screens ... you basically want to be out at least 80% the length and width). Cut 18" - 21" pieces from the 4th one and tie the two on the wall back to the one in the corner. Connect at the top and bottom so you basically have a free-standing corner frame. Now, cut 1" - 2" blocks from the remainder of the 4th board. Using a finish nailer, nail one block each on the bottom of each leg of your frame. Put one of your frames on it (the thickest type you have then a small spacer (thick piece of cardboard and put your next block on all three legs and nail those on. Just work your way up from there and you'll have yourself a drying rack in no time.

 

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Old January 31st, 2010 Jan 31, 2010 5:58:00 AM -   #7 (permalink)

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It's OK to coat your screens in a room with lights on... but away from direct sunlit windows. You do need to allow the emulsion to dry in a dark room. A large box will do the trick in a confined space. For storage after drying, you can use a box or black garbage bag.

If you need to transport exposed screens from exposure area to a washout area, place the screens in a black plastic garbage bag and you should be fine. Again, keep the screens away from any direct sunlight until you have washed them out completely. No better source of UV light than the sun, so you will expose your emulsion by an unshaded window.

 

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Old February 11th, 2010 Feb 11, 2010 5:20:24 PM -   #8 (permalink)

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I use a closet as my darkroom and take my screens outside to washout. (usualy at night)

If you do have to go outside to coat put the screens in a black trashbag and try to do your washout around dawn or dusk so there is low light.

 

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Old February 11th, 2010 Feb 11, 2010 5:51:10 PM -   #9 (permalink)

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Been doing this for a while now . . . when I first started and before I built my own drying rack. I got pieces of 1"x2" wood and cut into 2 in. pieces. coated the screens in the garage where with a bug light on. Then laid 1x2 on the floor at the top of screen and the bottom of the screen and repeated the process when I laid the screens on top of eachother. Then when the screens dried I put them in a black trash bag with a blanket over it to make sure of no UV exposure. When I burned the screen I sprayed it real good with water (water bottle) and moved it into a garbage can with a lid on it. Little at a time I lifted the lid and washed out the screen . . . (kind of a cheap way for a washout booth) never had a problem with this way . . . matter of fact when I work out of the home . . . I still wash out this way. Hit me up if you need any help.

One thing to not if you have wet the emulsion after exposure and wait for thirty or so seconds. You can remove the entire screen from the dark and as long you immediately start washing out you should be fine. Key is to make sure the emulsion stays soft when washing.

Hope this helps.

 

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Old February 13th, 2010 Feb 13, 2010 5:23:09 PM -   #10 (permalink)

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I understand you are starting and don't have the ability to cover any of your windows to make them light safe.

Beware that when drying your screens, water is the enemy. The sink and toilet atomize water when you use them. If you sit on the toilet and flush, you will feel it. Keep an eye on the humidity of the room with with a digital hygrometer.

You might consider putting a dehumidifier in the room to reduce humidity. After a night in your dehumidified room, the hygrometer will read it's lowest.

As the dehumidifier reclaims the moisture the stencils have given up, the room will return to it's lowest Rh% and you will know all the screens are as dry as you can make them.

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Old February 14th, 2010 Feb 14, 2010 3:44:45 AM -   #11 (permalink)

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Follow up on Dark Room Questions:

Maybe I've had some good luck but I've exposed a few screens with out any problems.

I've found that after coating my screens I can exit and enter the bathroom quickly (obviously keeping down to the absolute minimum) without any adverse exposure. After exposing my screens I'll put them in a heavy gauge black trash bag and immediately take them to another bathroom which has been darkened by hanging a towel over the curtains (Not completely dark like a darkroom). I'll wet the screens, being very light conscious while allowing to soak, then using a hand shower head, wash the screens out.

It's obviously not the optimal set up and workflow but it works for now.

I have encountered one problem. The shower head spray nozzle I'm using does not have a lot of pressure therefore puts too much water on the emulsion. I've not had any blowouts yet but I can see it happening. I'm looking for a powerful jet nozzle or some way to attach a hose nozzle to the shower head (Any suggestions?).

Thanks for all the replies!

 

Old February 14th, 2010 Feb 14, 2010 6:31:49 AM -   #12 (permalink)

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Remember, sensitizer reacts with invisible UV light, not visible light. Yellow light is safe light for processing screens because it is very low in UV energy and almost as bright as white light. I know it's Valentines Day, but don't go and buy a red safe light for visible light photography, because you will be only a little better than dark.


Developing your stencil

Water isn't your problem. You can never have too much water. You canhave, not enough exposure. This is the #1 screen making problem. #2 is a positive that doesn't stop all UV energy, like a bad raincoat. The perfect positive

The purpose of exposure is to change the stencil from something that will dissolve with water to something that won't dissolve with water. If the stencil breaks down - it's exposure.

The perfect positive stops all UV energy in the image area and lets UV energy harden/cure the stencil tat needs to stay in the mesh.

Today's a good day to try this print

Exposure is easy, if the image area doesn't dissolve, your positive failed to stop invisible UV energy from getting through your positive.

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Last edited by RichardGreaves; February 14th, 2010 at 07:53 AM..

 

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Old February 21st, 2010 Feb 21, 2010 11:46:56 PM -   #13 (permalink)

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If you're looking for pressure on the shower head, the sprayer end should remove and you can replace it with a hose nozzle. This should help with washout.

 

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