Moen Curved Shower Rod Review

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Moen recently sent us two of their unique curved shower rods to review. If you have a shower that uses boring straight shower rods, or worse yet, those rolling frosted glass enclosures from the 70’s, please read on. If, however, you have a spacious, frameless glass shower you could play volleyball in and that might be featured on MTV Cribs, we are jealous of you and you have no business reading this review.

First some additional pre-screening: Have you ever been showering and had your shower curtain glom onto you like a wet, possessed ghost? Do you have incredibly broad shoulders? Are you claustrophobic? Do you like to shower with friends? If any of these apply to you, or maybe you just want a stylish way to add a little more space in the shower, then the Moen Curved Shower Rod is for you!

The Moen Curved Shower Rods come in a fixed 5′ length (which can be cut down a bit to size), or telescoping “sets”, which adjust to fit shower enclosures between 54- and 72-inches with no cutting required. In my case, we installed the telescoping variety, in a oil rubbed bronze finish (which looks great if you’re into bronze). Moen’s term for this finish is actually “old world bronze.”

A few things to consider in terms of installation. Since the shower rod is curved, it can add space but also potentially remove some space at its ends, depending on how far in or out you install it. If you install the rod further out, you naturally get more space in the shower. The downside to installing further out, is you’ll lose some space in the actual bathroom (a factor to consider if your bathroom is small like ours). If you install too far out and the shower is in a tub, you run the risk of your shower curtain draping or falling outside the tub during use. If you install the the rod too far in, it will still look cool, but will defeat the purpose of the curved rod. For these reasons, I recommend you do a test fit with your curtain actually on the rod, to find the happy medium for where to mount the rod.

The rod can be installed on tile or drywall, but keep in mind tile installation will require that you use a tile drill bit. Moen includes a couple handy paper templates to mark out your holes (which vary depending on whether you install into studs vs install into drywall). I managed to install into studs, but I wound up using the anchors that Moen included on a different project (I’m cheap that way). My only minor complaint about the Moen curved shower rods is that the anchor screws that came with mine were poor quality (3 out of 6 of them failed to expand and became unusable). If you’re using anchors rather than going straight into studs, and you have problems with the included anchors, I’d recommend a trip to the hardware store for a more robust variety. Anchors aside, the installation process is easy if you’re at all handy.

Once installed, the curved shower rod looks great. A definite step up in style over boring big box store straight rods. The real pleasure with the curved shower rod is actually taking a shower. You and all your co-showering friends will feel like you remodeled your shower, making shower maneuvering and grabbing the soap that much less awkward! And no more wet attacks from the maniacal shower curtain ghost that used to love groping you so much. All in all, highly recommended.

The Moen Curved Shower Rods are available in chrome, brushed nickel and old world bronze. You can find Moen Curved Shower Rods for around $20-$50 (with higher prices for the adjustable length “sets”).

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Makita Sub-Compact Drill and Impact Driver - 18v Goes Ninja

Read article : Makita Sub-Compact Drill and Impact Driver - 18v Goes Ninja

This post is sponsored by The Home Depot. Tool brands take their colors seriously, and when one of them deviates from the color everyone recognizes them by, it means one of two things: 1) They are making a statement to differentiate a particular tool, or, 2) their brand manager is getting fired. Makita has recently made a chroma-curious move and released a new line of 18v Cordless tools in, wait for it, black! They sent us their 18V LXT Sub-Compact Combo Kit (CX200RB) several months ago, which includes both the Makita Sub-Compact Drill (XFD11ZB) and Makita Sub-Compact Impact Driver (XDT15ZB). We’re pretty sure their brand manager isn’t getting fired over the new color scheme, so let’s talk about these new tools, and why you might want to own them.

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As we all know, it’s a cordless world out there when it comes to power tools. Even outdoor power equipment is making the rapid progression toward cordless technology. Just about every power tool, including those many thought would “never” go cordless, are available in cordless platforms. All that cordless goodness does come at a cost. For one thing, things can get messy when it comes to battery platforms and chargers. I often dream of a day when all the tool companies come together to pursue a universal standard for chargers and batteries. From a consumer standpoint, being able to use one charger and any brand’s battery would make life a lot easier.

The Makita Sub-Compact CX200RB Kit

Unfortunately, that’s not likely to happen for a variety of reasons. For one, many tool brands invest a great deal in innovation focused on batteries, chargers and the tech that enables batteries to communicate with both chargers and the tools themselves. Those same companies aren’t going to be excited to join in a sharing circle of competitors, singing Kumbaya as they exchange their hard-fought intellectual property. Brands also benefit from practical brand loyalty here too. The tool companies that offer a large variety of the most appealing tools can encourage some buyers to stick to a single brand’s cordless platform exclusively. If you don’t believe that, check out some of the photos posted to social media showing loyal tool users showcasing mountains of red, blue, green or yellow cordless tools.

Even if you stick to one brand, you’re likely going to have tools in both 12v and 18v lines. Which brings us to this current review. Makita is looking to bridge the gap between 12v and 18v lines by providing the compact form factor users love in the 12v platform, with much of the power and performance users love about the 18v platform. For some of you, this might mean you leave some or all of your 12v gear behind and just carry your 18v tools, batteries and charger.

Makita Sub-Compact Drill / Driver & Impact Driver – Get a Grip on the Ergonomics

Comfortable ergo with a compact form-factor make the Makita Sub-Compact tools feel like a natural extension of your hand

One of the great things about 12v tools is their ergonomics. Many 12v drills and drivers just feel better than some of their bulkier 18v counterparts. The Makita sub-compact drill and it’s sibling impact driver feel more like a 12v tool in your hand, and that’s thanks to Makita’s choice to use a brushless motor that’s smaller in size than what you would find on a comparable 18v tool. While some bulkier 18v tools can feel awkward and cumbersome to wield, the Makita sub-compact tools instead feel like a natural extension of your arm (albeit with a lot more torque). And, because there isn’t a 12v battery crammed into it, the trim and slender grip on the sub-compact actually feels even better than many chunkier 12v grips.

Sub-Compact Weight – Float Like a Butterfly, Sting Like a Bee

The sub-compact benefits don’t stop with how the tool feels in your grip, they’re also relatively light, especially if you’re using the lightweight Makita 2.0 Ah battery. At just 2.8 and 2.6 lbs for the drill/driver and impact driver respectively (with the 2.0 battery), arm fatigue is kept to a minimum.

Makita 18V Sub-Compact Drill & Impact Driver Features and Performance

One of several tasks for the Makita Sub-Compact tools – drilling through solid bambooThe bamboo benchtop was no match for the Makita sub-compact drill

I used the 18V Sub-Compact Drill and Driver on a variety of tasks including installing recessed alarm sensors, drilling glass, assembling office furniture, installing a flat screen, installing a bench vise on a bamboo bench-top, removing a glass shower door assembly, installing closet railings, drilling into plaster, and general tasks for around the home. Some of that work was done off-site and these Sub-Compact tools were compelling to bring along since I suspected I might need more juice than a 12v might provide, but I also didn’t want to lug bulkier tools along. I dropped the Makita Sub-Compact Drill and driver into a tool bag filled with other tools and I didn’t feel like I was lugging my shop with me.

The bit got hot, but the drill stayed cool

The Makita Sub-Compact 1/2″ Driver Drill (XFD11)

Lots of clutch settings and a bright LED. We didn’t use the clutch given that we had the sub-compact impact driver on call.

This nimble powerhouse delivers 0-1700 RPM with a tiny 6-3/8″ overall length. You can adjust fastening torque from 20 different settings via the ring next to the chuck, or set it in drill mode to disable the clutch. The tool features two speeds, with the higher speed intended for lower-load activities. I found the optional belt clip handy given that the tool isn’t likely one you’ll slip into your toolbelt pouches. That’s one downside to the Sub-Compact line – 12v tools (assuming you’re using a lower capacity slim battery) are sleek enough that many users store them in their tool pouches. Despite the Sub-Compact’s very trim size, you won’t be likely to do that given the bulkier 18V form-factor. One little known fact is that you can use this tool like a manual screwdriver by switching the forward/reverse switch to neutral. However Makita recommends you don’t get carried away and try to loosen rusted lugnuts this way. Frankly, assuming you have both these tools on hand, you’ll probably want to use the driver drill more or less exclusively for drilling and the Sub-Compact Impact Driver for fasteners.

The Makita sub-compact drill / driver drilling out a dense door frame for a home automation sensor.

The Makita Sub-Compact Impact Driver (XDT15)

Once the holes were drilled, the Makita sub-compact impact driver stepped in to snug up the beefy hardware.

While not exactly ninja-quiet, the impact driver delivers a punishing 0-3900 impacts per minute to coerce fasteners into submission. It sports an even smaller 5-5/16″ overall length, making it ideal for tight-quarters fastener combat. At the base of the tool, you’ll find a somewhat confusing array of options for controlling the impact force. I’ll walk through each here, since they are not intuitively obvious (or, they weren’t to me anyway).

The indicator lights/settings weren’t quite as intuitive as we’d like.

There are three separate areas with indicator lights “S” for “Soft”, “H” for Hard and “A” for Assist Mode. Soft mode is engaged when just the light under the S is lit. It’s best for working with smaller fasteners and more delicate materials. Maximum impacts in S mode is 1600 IPM. If you’re in “H” or hard mode both the S and H lights are lit. I found this a little confusing as typically indicator lights are on one setting or another, not both. Presumably Makita lit both to indicate you can still operate the tool in the lower IPM range, but I think a single indicator light would make things more clear to users. In hard mode the tool delivers up to 3900 IPM’s. Plenty of impacts for most screws and reasonably-sizes bolts out there. Lastly, “A” or assist mode will automagically start screws slow and then gear up to higher speeds and impacts once you’re on track. This is great for longer fasteners and if you’re tool lazy to adjust speed yourself. “A” mode has the same maximums as the Hard setting by the way. In a world of Low-Medium-High or 1-2-3 settings, I think S-H-A isn’t as clear as it could be.

A single push button makes swapping batteries a snap.

Both tools have an onboard LED light just under the chuck / bit holder that lights during operation and stays lit about 10 second after. The light position casts a pretty significant shadow and isn’t super-bright, but it’s still useful if you’re working in a dark space. I found it very helpful working in a couple dark closets. As with many other Makita tools, you’ll find a fuel gauge on the battery itself rather than on the body of the tool, which is handy to for checking charge level on batteries that aren’t slid into a tool.

The 18v batteries have onboard charge status, handy for checking charge even if the battery isn’t hooked up to a tool.

Another nice bonus to the 18V battery is that it makes a much more stable stand than trying to balance the barrel-style 12V battery tools (many of which will simply fall over). You can set these Makita Sub-Compact tools on the ground, a nearby shelf or table and they’re ready to grab and go.

Both drill and driver stand up easily and are very stable when compared to trying to stand up a 12v barrel-style battery

The 18V LXT Sub-Compact Combo Kit (Cx200RB) we tested comes in a cube style carrying case that, sadly, is not black (which means it does NOT match my ninja outfit). While it handily fits the tools and charger, with room to spare for batteries and accessories, I can’t see carrying that cube anywhere, even with the included shoulder strap. The cube is bulky and better-suited to storing your lunch. With ninja-style tools like these, I’ll instead tuck them away in more agile storage when transporting them.

While functional and spacious, we weren’t in love with the cube-style carrying case.

The new 18V LXT Sub-Compact line from Makita has a lot going for it: great ergonomics, compact size, light weight and plenty of power for most applications you would want to use them for. Whether you’re a pro looking to minimize how much gear you’re toting, or you’re a homeowner looking for the convenience of a 12v tool, with many of the power advantages of an 18V tool, the Makita Sub-Compact Drill/Driver and Impact Driver is a great value and a winning combination. Plus, they’re black, which is awesome!

Buy the Makita CX200RB kit from our sponsor The Home Depot

You can find the 18V LXT Sub-Compact Combo Kit (Cx200RB) for a very reasonable $239 price tag at The Home Depot. The kit includes both Sub-Compact tools, 18V charger, two 2.0AH batteries and the lunch box, errr, I mean storage case.

Buy Now - via Home Depot

I acknowledge that The Home Depot is partnering with Home Fixated in sponsored content. As a part of the sponsorship, Home Fixated is receiving compensation for the purpose of promoting The Home Depot. All expressed opinions and experiences are our own words. This post complies with the Word Of Mouth Marketing Association (WOMMA) Ethics Code and applicable Federal Trade Commission guidelines.

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Delta Shower Doors - Design Your Own Shower Doors In Three Easy Steps!

Read article : Delta Shower Doors - Design Your Own Shower Doors In Three Easy Steps!

The last time we remodeled our master bathroom, Ronald Reagan was president, a first-class stamp was 24¢, and the Dow Jones Industrial Average was around 1,900. At the time, we tiled the walls and floor, put in a stock vanity and toilet, and installed a 4’ one-piece shower with sliding glass doors. A few years ago, we replaced the vanity, and the room still looks pretty good overall. Taking a closer look, though, the faucets are getting tarnished, and the glass doors are looking pretty dated and beat. Recently, the folks at Delta offered us an opportunity to try out a new service they are offering in conjunction with the Home Depot. Put down your copy of 1984, and take a look. We’ll show you how easy it is to customize and order your own Delta Shower Doors!

delta shower doors" width="460" height="375" class="size-large wp-image-25841" />The old 1980’s doors look ok from a distance…delta shower doors" width="460" height="311" class="size-large wp-image-25889" />But a closer look shows it’s time to update.

The process is fast, easy, and almost fun—not an adjective you normally associate with buying a shower door. To begin, you first select what type of Delta Shower Doors you need—sliding tub, sliding shower, or pivoting shower. If it’s a shower door, you’ll need to know the measurement for the width; there’s a link on the first page that shows you where to measure.

delta shower doors" width="460" height="311" class="size-large wp-image-25885" />The Delta Shower Doors website shows what measurements you need.

At this point, you have two choices: choice one is to choose your door type and finish the design process online, which is simple and takes just a few minutes. Choice two is for those who hate doing anything online, or who just want to get out of the house, and perhaps go somewhere that has people strolling about in orange aprons, eager to help you get through the design process. It turns out Home Depot is the only place to go since Delta Shower Doors are available in-store exclusively there. Here’s a quick overview of the process from Delta:

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Assuming you want to do it online, after choosing your door type, just click on the red banner that says “Step 1: Choose Your Glass.” Crazy as it sounds, this is where you’ll choose your glass. There are eight styles to choose from, including various patterns and textured glass. If you like to keep an eye on things while you’re showering, you can even select clear glass.

In the next step, you’ll choose the track for your Delta Shower Doors. You can select chrome, nickel, bronze, or polished brass. In each step of the process, prices are clearly shown for each option, and a little monitor on the upper right shows your selections so far, along with a running total cost. There is also a picture on each page, and whenever you make a selection, the picture is updated automatically to show what your door will look like.

delta shower doors" width="460" height="341" class="size-large wp-image-25824" />Designing your doors online is fast and easy…

The final step is to select your hardware. There are four styles of towel bars to choose from, depending on your tastes. If keeping it simple is your style, take a look at “Simplicity.” Looking for something with a bit more panache? “Panache” might be just the thing. The other two offerings don’t lend themselves to cheesy references; you’ll just have to look for yourself.

And that’s it, you just designed your own Delta Shower Doors! Just click on “See Your Design” to—you guessed it—see your design. At this point, you’ll also be able to look through several accessories that coordinate with your design, including faucet sets, towel bars, toilet paper holders, drawer knobs and even flush levers for your toilet! Click on “Add To Cart,” and you’ll be taken to the Home Depot web site. First, select your delivery method; you can choose to have it shipped to the nearest Home Depot for free, or to your home for a fee. Proceed to the checkout, pay, and sit back and dream how splendid your baño will look when your designer door arrives!

delta shower doors" width="460" height="689" class="size-large wp-image-25825" />Eight days after ordering, the Delta Shower Doors arrived

The order for my custom doors was placed on October 7th. On October 15th, a big ol’ truck rolled up, and a box of Delta Shower Doors landed on our side porch. Not bad, I’ve had stock special orders take longer than that to arrive. The doors are shipped by ground freight; when they get to your area, the trucking company will contact you to set up a delivery date. If you’re hiring someone to do the installation, tell them when to show up, and your mission is complete. On the other hand, if you have average DIY skills, and some basic tools, you can do your own installation. This will save you some money, and earn you the awe and respect of everyone you meet.

The HomeFixated Guide To Installing Your Delta Shower Doors

If your tub or shower is new, and you don’t have to remove an old set of doors, you have permission to scroll down to “Delta Shower Doors – By The Book.” Otherwise, the first step in the installation process is to make the old stuff go away. If your old doors are still in good shape, your local Habitat for Humanity or other salvaged-goods store may accept it for resale. This accomplishes several things: it eliminates your disposal problem (some trash haulers may not take large items), it keeps usable stuff out of the landfill, and you might even get a tax write-off!

Most shower doors are installed the same way: upright brackets go at either end of the shower, and are screwed into the edges of the tub or wall. A track fits in between them, and sits on the edge of the tub or shower. Finally, the top rail is attached to the top of the edge brackets. After all that is in place, you tip the doors into place, where little wheels glide along an overhead track. Usually there is a center bracket in the bottom track to separate the doors, and hold them into the track. To take it apart, we’ll simply reverse the process. And now for the first HomeFixated tip of the day: spreading a towel on the shower floor will help protect it, and will also keep screws and debris out of the drain.

First, pop out the old doors. Usually you can do this just by unscrewing the dividing bracket, lifting up on the doors, and tilting them into the shower. Once the doors are off, unscrew the side brackets and tip them in toward the center. There will probably be caulk wanting to hold them in place; use a painter’s multitool or a flat-bladed razor scraper to convince them to give it up; just be careful not to scratch your walls or chip your surround.

delta shower doors" width="460" height="345" class="size-large wp-image-25827" />First, remove the divider from the bottom track…delta shower doors" width="460" height="345" class="size-large wp-image-25830" />Tip the doors in, and pop them out of the top trackdelta shower doors" width="460" height="306" class="size-large wp-image-25833" />Carefully break the caulk bond…delta shower doors" width="460" height="306" class="size-large wp-image-25832" />Unscrew the wall jambs…

At this point, you should be able to tip the sides and top outward. The bottom rail is usually just held in place by caulk; scrape it off, and the rail should pop right out. Use your flat-bladed razor scraper, and a sponge with some cleaner that’s safe for your shower’s surface, to get the rest of the caulk and years of accumulated nastiness off the entire opening area.

delta shower doors" width="460" height="306" class="size-large wp-image-25838" />Tip the header and wall jambs out…delta shower doors" width="460" height="351" class="size-large wp-image-25837" />Break the caulk bond, and pry up the bottom track…delta shower doors" width="460" height="391" class="size-large wp-image-25836" />Scrape up any remaining caulkdelta shower doors" width="460" height="689" class="size-large wp-image-25839" />Give it a good cleaning, and you’re ready for your new doors!

And that’s it, you’re ready to install your sporty new Delta Shower Doors! If you want to see how the pros do it, Delta has a series of helpful installation videos. The following is their sliding shower door installation video:

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Delta Shower Doors – By The Book

Even if you’ve done a shower door installation before, it’s a good idea to read the instructions. The instruction manual that comes with your Delta Shower Doors is excellent, very clear and thorough. The first page gives a list of all the tools and supplies you’ll need to install your doors, so a good first step is to round everything up. Unpack the doors and rails, and make sure all the parts are there. Some of the parts are stuck in the packing foam, so don’t pitch anything until your installation is finished. I’ll give an overview here, but the manual has much more detail, and is, as they say, profusely illustrated.

The wall jambs go in first. The jambs must sit flat against the shower wall and the threshold; if you have a tile wall, or a tub or shower with a perfect 90° angle where the wall meets the threshold, you’re set. If you have a tub or shower where there’s a curve there, you’ll need to round off the bottom of the side rails to conform to the curve. This is no big deal; the instructions tell you to use a coin to mark the contour onto the jamb. What they don’t tell you is that you probably won’t be able to SEE that mark!

delta shower doors" width="460" height="376" class="size-large wp-image-25845" />You can use a coin to mark the radius.

A little HF tip: put a piece of masking tape on the jamb, and make your mark on it. Use a pair of tin snips or a hacksaw, and cut to that approximate shape. Finish smoothing it to the right shape with a file or angle grinder. You can also use an angle grinder to do the whole process; that’s what I did, just be careful not to get carried away with it.

delta shower doors" width="460" height="345" class="size-large wp-image-25846" />Use snips, a file, or a grinder to shape the jambs.delta shower doors" width="460" height="377" class="size-large wp-image-25847" />A good, tight fit in the corner.

Place the wall jambs against the wall, centered on the bottom ledge. Use your level to plumb them, then temporarily tape them in place. Next, you’ll drill a 1/8” pilot hole through the three pre-drilled holes in the wall jambs into the edge of the shower. Take the jambs back off the wall, and use a 5/16” bit to enlarge the pilot holes.

delta shower doors" width="460" height="689" class="size-large wp-image-25848" />Plumb up the wall jambs. Masking tape holds them in place.delta shower doors" width="460" height="306" class="size-large wp-image-25849" />Drill 1/8″ pilot holes through the pre-drilled holes in the jambs.delta shower doors" width="460" height="362" class="size-large wp-image-25850" />Remove the jambs, and enlarge the holes to 5/16″.

Push the supplied wall anchors into these holes, and snug them in gently with a small hammer. Reposition the wall jambs, and screw them to the wall. Your screws will be used to attach bumpers to the top and bottom holes, and a special center bumper in the middle. Hey—your walls are done!

delta shower doors" width="460" height="350" class="size-large wp-image-25851" />Push wall anchors into the 5/16″ holes unless you’re drilling into a stud…delta shower doors" width="460" height="379" class="size-large wp-image-25852" />Screw through the bumpers and into the anchors.delta shower doors" width="460" height="689" class="size-large wp-image-25853" />You’re jambin’!

Laying Some Track

Now it’s time to cut the bottom track. The kits will fit various sizes of tubs and showers; getting an accurate measurement will give you a good, snug fit you need to measure the distance between the two jambs. This can be tricky to do, as it’s an inside measurement. Here’s another HF tip: measure from one end to an even number around the center of the threshold, and make a mark. I chose 24”. Now, measure from the other end to that same mark, and add those two numbers together. My second measurement came to exactly 19”, making my total length 43”.

delta shower doors" width="460" height="306" class="size-large wp-image-25855" />Measure about halfway from one side of the track, and make a mark…delta shower doors" width="460" height="306" class="size-large wp-image-25856" />Measure to that mark from the other side, and add ’em up.

Now you need to transfer that measurement onto your bottom track, and mark it for cutting. Our track hardware was bronze, which makes it really hard to see any marks. I used the tape trick again, putting a piece of masking tape on the track and making my mark on it. To avoid unnecessary foul language and elevated blood pressure, double check your measurements and marks before you cut! You want a nice, square cut, so use a miter box with your hacksaw. Make sure it’s deep enough to accommodate a 3” wide piece of material; that’s how wide my top track was. Make your cut, and use a file to smooth any burred edges. By the way, another tip the folks at Delta repeated several times was DO NOT CUT THE TOP AND BOTTOM TRACKS TO THE SAME LENGTH! They are correct, don’t do it!

delta shower doors" width="460" height="306" class="size-large wp-image-25857" />A piece of tape makes your mark easier to see.delta shower doors" width="460" height="306" class="size-large wp-image-25858" />A basic miter box gives you a smooth, square cut.

There’s a piece of gasket material in the kit; slide it into the groove in the track, and cut it to length. Now test fit your track between the jambs. Undoubtedly, it’s a perfect fit; if not (due undoubtedly to a shoddily-made tape measure or something else beyond your control), remove the track and file it to size. When all is well, fill the groove on the bottom of the track with silicone sealant, and press it into place between the jambs.

delta shower doors" width="460" height="356" class="size-large wp-image-25859" />After test-fitting the track, apply silicone sealant underneath it…delta shower doors" width="460" height="306" class="size-large wp-image-25860" />Insert the track between the jambs, and press it into place.delta shower doors" width="460" height="689" class="size-large wp-image-25861" />Three sides finished!

Next up: the top track. For this, you’ll measure the distance between the two shower walls, above the wall jambs. This is another tricky measurement to get accurately. If you’re replacing a previously-installed unit, here’s a little cheat that worked for me: measure the OLD upper track, assuming it fit properly. Mine did, so it was easy to get the exact measurement. If you’re not so fortunate, here’s an easy way to get the measurement using materials at hand: take a piece of cardboard from the packaging, and make a mark exactly 12” from a square end of it. (Alternatively, you could use a 12″ ruler or a framing square). Hold the square end against one wall, and measure over from the other wall to your 12” mark. Add the two together, and there you go! Transfer the measurement to the top rail, again using a piece of masking tape, grab your miter box, and make the cut. Again, be sure to double-check your measurement first. De-burr the end, hold the top rail over the wall jambs, and push it into place. The hardest part is done!

delta shower doors" width="460" height="306" class="size-large wp-image-25862" />If you removed an old door, just measure the old top track.delta shower doors" width="460" height="306" class="size-large wp-image-25863" />Mark the top track for cutting.delta shower doors" width="460" height="689" class="size-large wp-image-25864" />Press the top down over the wall jambs.

I Can See Clearly Now – Or Perhaps Obscurely

And now for the most rewarding segment of your Delta Shower Doors installation, the shower doors! Remember the foam I told you not to throw away? That’s where the hanger brackets were lurking. Two brackets go on each door; the inside door gets installed first. The doors are identical, so grab one and install the hangars using the pre-drilled holes in the door, making sure the grooved sides of the brackets face the label side of the glass panel. Snug up the screws but don’t go all Incredible Hulk – you don’t want to risk cracking the door, and having to explain to your friends why there’s a blue tarp hanging in your shower opening. Now just lift the door into the upper track, until the rollers rest on the track. Make sure the side of the door with the label is facing in.

delta shower doors" width="460" height="306" class="size-large wp-image-25866" />Insert a bushing into the hole…delta shower doors" width="460" height="345" class="size-large wp-image-25867" />Snug up the door hanger…delta shower doors" width="460" height="306" class="size-large wp-image-25868" />When both hangers are in place…delta shower doors" width="460" height="306" class="size-large wp-image-25869" />Lift the inside door into place on the inner rail.

Now repeat the process with the other door, but this time with the smooth side of the bracket facing the label side of the door. Lift the door into the top track, making sure the bottom of the door is inside the bottom track. Wow, it’s starting to look like a shower!

delta shower doors" width="460" height="306" class="size-large wp-image-25870" />Now repeat the process with the outer door, and lift it onto the track.

If the doors don’t meet the walls properly, they can easily be adjusted. Pop the door back out of the track, and loosen up the rollers. There are three holes the roller can be inserted into; to raise the glass, use the lower hole. To lower it, use the upper hole. Snug the roller up, and re-hang the door.

delta shower doors" width="460" height="345" class="size-large wp-image-25871" />To adjust the door, remove the screw that holds the wheel on…delta shower doors" width="460" height="345" class="size-large wp-image-25872" />Use a lower hole to raise the door, a higher one to lower it.

Once the doors are aligned properly, it’s time to install the divider on the bottom track. Measure the bottom track, find the center, and position the divider there, with the doors in the grooves. Drill 1/8” pilot holes through the edge of the divider into the bottom track, and secure it with the two self-tapping screws. Your Delta Shower Doors are secure, and you’re almost finished!

delta shower doors" width="460" height="370" class="size-large wp-image-25873" />Center the lower divider, drill pilot holes, and screw it into place.delta shower doors" width="460" height="689" class="size-large wp-image-25874" />Almost finished!

Sealing the Deal

To keep the water on the inside of your beautiful new Delta Shower Doors, take your silicone sealant and seal along the entire length of the wall jambs and bottom track, both inside and out. 100% pure silicone works best, and there are varieties made specifically for bathrooms, with mold inhibitors. All that’s left to do is install the door handles or towel bars you selected. The exact installation will vary according to your hardware, but all are designed to be used with the pre-drilled holes in the door.

delta shower doors" width="460" height="306" class="size-large wp-image-25875" />Use good silicone sealant around the entire inside and outside of the track.

Mine was very straightforward. I just inserted the rubber bushings into the holes in the door, slid a rubber gasket over the escutcheon and the handle post, and threaded them together through the hole. I installed one end, then put a bit of silicone on the towel bar, slid it into the post, and installed the other end. Easy peasy!

delta shower doors" width="460" height="376" class="size-large wp-image-25876" />No tools are needed for this towel bar, the pieces are threaded.delta shower doors" width="460" height="306" class="size-large wp-image-25877" />Hold the back piece up to the door…delta shower doors" width="460" height="306" class="size-large wp-image-25878" />insert the other side, and spin it snug.delta shower doors" width="460" height="689" class="size-large wp-image-25879" />Towel bars in, and lookin’ good!

I summoned my wife, and we stepped back and admired the transformation, what a difference! It looked great, until I opened the door and saw the old faucets and drain. Replacing them will be our next move, the spiffy new doors made us realize just how crappy the old fixtures had gotten over the past three decades. Meanwhile, the Spousal Seal of Approval was issued.

delta shower doors" width="460" height="306" class="size-large wp-image-25880" />The new hardware highlights how beat the old fixtures are…delta shower doors" width="460" height="613" class="size-large wp-image-25884" />But the doors look great!

Design Your Own Delta Shower Doors

I think the custom Delta Shower Doors concept is great. The materials are very good quality – the weight on the shower doors was about twice that of those I took out. Fit and finish is excellent, everything you need to do the installation is included, and the instructions are very good. The design and ordering process was quick and easy, and the available options should enable most buyers to design a set of shower doors that’s exactly what they want. The only quibble I had with the entire process was that it’s difficult to see exactly what the various types of glass look like, at least that was the case on my Mac. Some higher-res photos might help with that.

Pricing is very competitive with stock units, where you’re limited to whatever configuration happens to be on the shelf. With the Delta Shower Doors, you’re the boss. Don’t like pebbled glass? Go with the Mission style. Tired of the polished brass (yep!)? Get the rubbed bronze or brushed nickel. Got some fancy shmancy towel racks on the wall? Get a matching fancy shmancy towel bar on your shower door.

The flexibility is great, you can get exactly what you want, and you can control the cost. I designed a similar setup in chrome, with pebbled glass, and the total cost came to $210. You can further control your costs by choosing to pick up your Delta Shower Doors at a nearby Home Depot for free, but if your schedule is crazy, you can have it shipped to your home for $55 or so. The doors come with a limited five-year warranty.

delta shower doors" width="460" height="689" class="size-large wp-image-25891" />Before…(not bad from a distance; scary up close)delta shower doors" width="460" height="611" class="size-large wp-image-25883" />And after–three hours after, to be precise!

Ready for the three-step program? Design YOUR custom doors before November 3rd, 2014, and you can enter a sweepstakes to win $1,000 or your own set of custom Delta Shower Doors!

More Info - via DeltaShowerDoors.com

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