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Sunday, March 11, 2018

11 Most Badass RVs You Can Buy Today

Read article : 11 Most Badass RVs You Can Buy Today

Driving cross-country in a multi-million dollar RV is an experience few Americans will ever get to enjoy. While many may fawn over massive machines like the unstoppable Zetros 6×6, few of us have the means to obtain a purpose-built doomsday machine. Sure, there’s the obvious financial obligation, as luxury RV setups can run north of $3 million, but concerns about parking, maintenance, winterizing, insurance, and who’s going to drive the damn thing are also factors to consider.

Riding atop a Ford F-750 chassis, the <a href=Earthroamer XV HD is about as ferocious as it gets outside of military spec | Earthroamer" />

Riding atop a Ford F-750 chassis, the Earthroamer XV HD is about as ferocious as it gets outside of military spec | Earthroamer

Fortunately, many of the world’s elite moneymakers have the means to hire a trained driver, and with some of these land yachts running well over 40 feet long, merging and parking can be a real pain for the untrained. But RV enthusiasts aren’t just into slate tile floors and crystal chandeliers, and hardcore 4×4 vehicles are still a hot commodity as they crush terrain by day and then raise their rooflines at night for spacious living.

Newmar's <a href=King Aire line takes a unique, but very ornate approach to RV-making, and the amount of time, money, and energy that goes into making one is insane | Newmar" width="757" height="482" />

Newmar’s King Aire line takes a unique, but very ornate approach to RV-making, and the amount of time, money, and energy that goes into making one is insane | Newmar

We recently took the time to peruse the web in search of some of the most over-the-top RV options money can buy, and came up with a surplus of unique options. There really is something out there for everyone, and if your pocketbook is up to the challenge, you can have an entire penthouse suite on wheels built to your personal taste.

1. IKON by Renegade

The IKON by Renegade is one purpose-built RV, with trailer towing being one of its strongest suits | Renegade

The IKON by Renegade is one purpose-built RV, with trailer towing being one of its strongest suits | Renegade

The IKON by Renegade takes semi-truck styling and combines it with luxury amenities and industry leading self-sufficiency. From handcrafted solid hardwood cabinetry and plush Villa Ultraleather furniture to quartz countertops and heated porcelain tile floors, the good life comes standard in this RV. Tech-wise, it also features things like Samsung 4K LED TVs, Bose Home Theater Sound, and a set of high-tech stainless steel appliances that deliver the goods when it’s time to eat.

It also features VegaTouch control systems, which have dual 10-inch touchscreen controllers with iPad, smartphone, and tablet compatibility. This means you can integrate interior lighting, systems monitoring, HVAC controls, window coverings, awning and slide-out controls, and a whole lot more into an all-in-one touchpad that doubles as a monitor for the perimeter observation camera system.

The Renegade IKON can be outfitted with all manner of amazing interior amenity | Renegade

The Renegade IKON can be outfitted with all manner of amazing interior amenity | Renegade

Buyers will love finding features like hand crafted hardwoods, and a Theater Mode that automatically lowers the shades, dims lights, and raises the 50-inch Samsung UHD 4K TV so it can automatically tie into the Bose home theater system. While a porcelain tile shower and adjustable LED vanity lighting systems are also nice, it’s the Renegade’s attention to towing capacities and ability to be lived out of for weeks on end thanks to its oversized water, septic, and fuel tanks that make it a preferred RV for motorsport enthusiasts.

2. Winnebago Brave

The <a href=Winnebago Brave takes vintage styling and applies modern technology and mechanics to form a restomod RV | Winnebago" width="757" height="424" />

The Winnebago Brave takes vintage styling and applies modern technology and mechanics to form a resto-mod RV | Winnebago

Back in the late 1960s and 1970s, there was no mistaking a Winnebago motorhome for another RV thanks to its bold “Flying W” badging, iconic “eyebrow” designs, clever interior, and boxy body lines. But over time the iconic styling of yesteryear began to morph into a mish-mash of ho-hum engineering and bland RV styling.

But now it’s time to fall in love with classic RV styling all over again, because Winnebago has followed in Dodge’s Challenger footsteps and has rolled out a resto-mod version of the machine that got America hooked on RV life in the first place.

Vintage interior within the Winnebago Brave looks straight out of the 1970s | Winnebago

Vintage interior within the Winnebago Brave looks straight out of the 1970s | Winnebago

The all-new Winnebago Brave takes vintage styling cues and blends them with modern practicality, efficiency, safety, and useful amenities in order to give the next generation of motorhome enthusiast an RV that is both retro and reliable. While you won’t be able to pick one up for the $4,000 price tag associated with the original, these classic and quirky motorhomes are priced to fit a more modest budget, and can be customized in a wide array of colors and interior design layouts.

3. Global X Vehicles Pangea “Perky Mog”

Global X Vehicles takessafety orange and gives it a new purpose on this <a href=Pangea roof lifter" width="757" height="504" />

Global X Vehicles takes safety orange and gives it a new purpose on this Pangea roof lifter | Global X Vehicles

Global Expedition Vehicles’ Pangea Lifting Roof version of the unstoppable Mercedes-Benz UniMog can be built on either a medium or heavy duty chassis, and can be tailored around various cab configurations. Referred to as the “Perky Mog,” this clever 4×4 RV has a unique lowered position that allows the windows to be covered with the hard side top section, while maintaining full walking height within. Once in the raised position, a huge loft area becomes exposed, which can be reconfigured to the buyer’s preferred sleeping layout, and can hold up to two queen size beds.

Inside the <a href=Pangea Lifting Roof monster are gorgeous living quarters that feature ornate wood floors, and a loft for sleeping | Global X Vehicles" width="757" height="504" />

Inside the Pangea Lifting Roof monster are gorgeous living quarters that feature ornate wood floors, and a loft for sleeping | Global X Vehicles

Since each vehicle is tailor-made to the buyer’s specifications, there is no cut-and-dry approach to purchasing one of these machines, so be prepared for a lengthy build list and turnaround time. A few of our favorite touches include the G-KAS mounting body isolating mount system, having cab-to-cabin access, exterior tool/utility boxes, how the seating area converts into an additional sleeping space, and how the stair treads are hinged and lift to reveal hidden storage. Add on a duo of high efficiency 200-watt PV solar panels, a 140 gallon fresh water tank, amazing off-road capabilities, and the ability to buy one in 16- to 18-foot lengths, and you’ve got one hell of a capable 4×4 RV on your hands.

4. Newmar King Aire

Engineered to embody “the pinnacle of luxury travel,” the Newmar King Aire takes style, comfort, and technology to a whole new level, with the 2017 model sporting a restyled exterior, and a Spartan K3 tag axle chassis that has been attached to a steel superstructure. Inside, contrast cross stitching highlights the dash, which features a wireless non-slip charging pad, full LCD driver display, and two 12.1-inch touchscreens for system controls and 360-degree outward visibility. Meanwhile, a one-off 11-speaker JBL cockpit audio system and exclusive fabrics from Ralph Lauren add additional flare to the front of the cabin.

Newmar's <a href=King Aire line takes a unique, but very ornate approach to RV-making, and the amount of time, money, and energy that goes into making one is insane | Newmar" width="757" height="482" />

Newmar’s King Aire line takes a unique, but very ornate approach to RV-making, and the amount of time, money, and energy that goes into making one is insane | Newmar

For tailgating purposes, two Girard Nova side awnings extend over a specially designed sidewall housing a 43-inch Sony 4K UHD TV and a Bluetooth-compatible Bose soundbar, which rests atop one of the tallest basements in the Class A segment. Buyers can choose Maple, Cherry, or Rift Oak hardwood cabinetry, while polished porcelain plank tile, heated and cooled Pompeii leather front seats, and a 49-inch Sony 4K UHD TV come standard, with a Blu-ray/DVD player and Bose CineMate home theater system. The King Aire’s master bath is available with an industry-leading 50-by-34-inch shower, complete with full tile and a Fresca panel with massage sprayers and a foot washer, and even comes finished with a Whirlpool stacked washer and dryer.

5. Earthroamer XV HD

Riding atop a Ford F-750 chassis, the <a href=Earthroamer XV HD is about as ferocious as it gets outside of military spec | Earthroamer" width="757" height="409" />

Riding atop a Ford F-750 chassis, the Earthroamer XV HD is about as ferocious as it gets outside of military spec | Earthroamer

EarthRoamer has just expanded its product line in order to offer the highly anticipated F-750-based XV-HD. Designed to accommodate up to eight people comfortably and sleep six, this off-road RV features enough ingenuity to make living off-grid for a few days a breeze, as the HD offers anyone looking for wilderness adventures both driving prowess and fantastic amenities.

Extra windows and a raised roof allows living quarters to feel anything but confined in Earthroamer's XV HD | Earthroamer

Extra windows and a raised roof allows living quarters to feel anything but confined in Earthroamer’s XV HD | Earthroamer

The XV-HD takes luxury off-grid ingenuity and infuses it with solar panels, a monolithic battery bank, 46-inch military tires, 200 gallons of fresh water, a compact washer/dryer, and a whole lot more. At just over 35-feet long this is no mini RV either, giving all the more reason for Earthroamer to utilize Ford’s 6.7-liter PowerStroke Diesel engine and all 725 pound-feet of torque.

6. Bespoke Coach Sprinter Van

A <a href=typical Bespoke Coach Sprinter is not overtly adorned with external upgrades, but leans more toward a VIP look | Bespoke Coach" width="757" height="466" />

A typical Bespoke Coach Sprinter is not overtly adorned with external upgrades, but leans more toward a VIP look | Bespoke Coach

This next road trip specialist is a bit of a hybrid, because while it isn’t a massive RV, it isn’t really a van either. Bespoke Coachworks has been customizing vehicles in Southern California since 1985, and over the past 30 years has created countless custom audio, video, interior, and exterior solutions for celebrities and the elite. So when the Sprinter van finally began getting imported and badged by Dodge and Freightliner back in 2007, requests for customized versions flooded their ears.

After decades of working with companies like Bentley, Rolls Royce, and Mercedes-Benz, the thought of pimping out vans seemed a bit strange, but after one luxury van conversion spawned the next, Bespoke Coachworks knew it was on to something. From opulent mobile offices, to family coaches with built-in beds and entertainment suites, this unique chassis offers an endless array of options for anyone wanting a small and swanky RV, all without the headaches associated with piloting a land barge.

The interior of one of Bespoke Coach's Sprinter vans may not be large, but it certainly is luxurious | Bespoke Coach

The interior of one of Bespoke Coach’s Sprinter vans may not be large, but it certainly is luxurious | Bespoke Coach

Bespoke Coach’s luxury mobile office incorporates the best technology, design, and materials into a first-class experience, tasking top engineers, designers, and fabricators to make coaches that are both user friendly and innovative. A few of our favorite options include the driver wall partition with motorized privacy window, custom upholstered walls and ceilings, the marine-grade circuit breaker panel, and those Maybach inspired captains chairs. There are also standard iPads, Samsung TV screens, power inverters, customizable lighting, Focal audio upgrades, and Dynamat sound deadening throughout, with a laundry list of unique upgrade options waiting on the wing for the right price.

7. Marathon Show Coach

Marathon Coach, Inc. is widely revered as the world’s largest luxury bus converter and dealer, and specializes in taking commercial buses supplied by Prevost and customizing them into the most opulent RVs imaginable. Built around a Prevost H3-45 chassis, these custom buses feature engineer-driven technologies and a unique “California design viewpoint” that leans toward shades of warm taupe and rich chocolate brown, with deep indigo blue accents inside and out.

Inside, buyers will find things like a marble, limestone, and travertine “basket weave” floor inlay that has been surrounded by Italian porcelain tile, as well as a custom fireplace enclosure designed for both ambiance and warmth. There are soft touches like velvet tufted sofas finished with chrome nail heads, and a stitched leather recliner at the large work desk for when duty calls on the open road.

The <a href=Marathon Show Coach is a swanky, multi-million dollar cruiser designed for the world's elite | Marathon Coach Inc." width="757" height="504" />

The Marathon Show Coach is a swanky, multi-million dollar cruiser designed for the world’s elite | Marathon Coach Inc.

In the back you will find features like an oversized glass and limestone mosaic shower with a telescopic, glass pocket door that goes opaque at the touch of a button, an integrated, 8-inch rain shower head, as well as a hand-held shower wand. There also are Hans Grohe faucets and fixtures, custom-made hammered stainless steel sinks, a walk-in closet, a TechLink electrical system, and Crestron controls.

8. Sportsmobile Classic 4×4

With the camper lowered and doors closed, this house on wheels turns into a 4x4 Ford battering ram | Sportsmobile

With the camper lowered and doors closed, this house on wheels turns into a 4×4 Ford battering ram | Sportsmobile

The Sportsmobile Classic is one of the most recent creations in a long line of heavy duty 4×4 “Adventure Vans” coming out of Sportsmobile. After a successful prototype testing phase, the Classic 4×4 can now be had in a Ford Cutaway body that molds it with a steel reinforced fiberglass shell and an integrated penthouse top that drops flush into the shell for streamlining purposes.

The Sportsmobile 4WD Vehicle is designed to appeal to the most discerning off-road enthusiast, and in order to do so only the best heavy-duty components are installed for a balance between maximum off-road performance and on-road comfort. Over five decades of experience in the designing and manufacturing of van campers has led to this point, and while these machines can only be had on 2008–2014 Ford E-350 models equipped with the 6.8-liter V10 and barn doors, sourcing a gently used donor shouldn’t be an issue.

Sportsmobile has long been synonymous with hardcore off-road vehicles that can be lived out of | Sportsmobile

Sportsmobile has long been synonymous with hardcore off-road vehicles that can be lived out of | Sportsmobile

Full production of the Classic started in late 2016, and the 4WD Conversion model includes a lot of hardcore 4×4 upgrades. A few key features include an Advance Adapter Atlas II All Gear Driven transfer case, a Dynatrac Pro-Roc 60 front axle, Dana 60 rear axle, Fox 2.0 Performance Series Shocks, a high knuckle front end for extra tie rod clearance, and an extra heavy duty steering arm.

We could go on about the military wrap springs that were specifically designed for this van, or how the front sway bar comes with a quick disconnect system and custom shocks, but it would take forever to go over this list of performance upgrades. Finished with a practical and rugged, adventure-ready interior, this RV is a pop-top for the most discerning 4×4 enthusiast.

9. ShowHauler Motorhomes

ShowHauler specializes in <a href=melding semi tractor trailer strength with high dollar RV resplendency | ShowHauler" width="757" height="568" />

ShowHauler specializes in melding semi tractor trailer strength with high dollar RV resplendency | ShowHauler

ShowHauler Motorhomes are heralded as “the safest motor coach on the road,” and their coach frames utilize a unique tubular steel structure consisting of super strong floors, sidewalls, and ceilings. The underbelly is completely undercoated, block foam is placed between steel side-wall supports prior to bonding aluminum exterior walls to the frame, no rivets are used, interior walls are reinforced to create a structural cage, and adhesive bonding is used to apply a bubble type insulation.

Being built on a standard truck chassis with a higher Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) than a typical motorhome allows for greater carrying capacities, so weight is never a concern and neither are highway crosswinds nor oncoming traffic. Internally, buyers get to choose the hardwood they want for cabinets and fabric patterns and colors, all window framing is finished with hand-formed hardwood, counter-tops are genuine Corian, and buyers can choose either polished ceramic tile floors or carpet.

A ShowHauler interior can be outfitted with anything the buyer desires, it just depends upon how deep your pocketbook goes | ShowHauler

A ShowHauler interior can be outfitted with anything the buyer desires, it just depends upon how deep your pocketbook goes | ShowHauler

We personally dig the cab pass-thru, having 7-feet of interior headroom, the cab-over bunk and vent, the 12 gallon gas/electric water heater, 30,000 BTU ducted gas furnace, and the ability to tow damn near anything. ShowHauler Motorhomes are part luxury living quarters, part big-rig, and all cross-country cruiser.

10. Mercedes-Benz Zetros 2733 A 6×6

Mercedes-Benz Zetros 2733 A 6x6 is one hell of an intimidating RV

Mercedes-Benz Zetros 2733 A 6×6 is one hell of an intimidating RV | Daimler

We eluded to it in our intro, and here it is up close. The all-wheel drive behemoth commonly referred to as the Mercedes-Benz Zetros 2733 A 6×6 is based off a semi with a cab-behind-engine layout, and offers sensational traction and versatility, plus customizable living arrangements.

This triple-axled truck typically weighs in between 25 and 27 tons, and while its powertrain and chassis configuration either come out of the Actros and Axor series of full-size work trucks, it also utilizes a unique Unimog/G-Class 6×6 approach. Powered by a 7.2-liter inline six-cylinder engine, this lumbering beast only puts down around 326 horsepower, but generates around 1,000 foot-pounds of torque in the 1,200–1,600 RPM range.

With room for ATV loading in the rear, this 27-ton monster is all you need to dominate the wild

With room for ATV loading in the rear, this 27-ton monster is all you need to dominate the wild | Daimler

Buyers can opt for either a hydraulically/pneumatic nine-speed manual transmission (eight forward gears plus crawler), which has a direct-ratio top gear, or they can get the six-speed Allison 3000 SP/PR automatic. The permanent all-wheel drive VG 1700 transfer case has an off-road ratio that is about 20% lower than its all-wheel drive cousins, so crawl control is a strong suit here. Towing capacity has also been increased by about 70% when compared to the on-road gears, and torque distribution between the front and rear axle(s) is 1:3.21 thanks to the splitter box, which becomes 1:1 if the differential lock is engaged.

All told, the Zetros has three mechanical differential locks, all of which can be easily selected via a rotary control that shows the logical sequence in which they need to be engaged. Drivers must start with the center-axle before engaging the rear, with the front remaining the final option, reserved for when terrain is at its most extreme.

11. Iveco Astra HD8 8×6 Expedition Truck

Expedition Trucks always has something insane on its for sale page, like this 8x6 behemoth for instance | <a href=Expedition Truck Brokers" width="757" height="505" />

Expedition Trucks always has something insane on its for sale page, like this 8×6 behemoth for instance | Expedition Truck Brokers

Our final contender today comes from Expedition Truck Brokers, a company that has specialized in connecting buyers and sellers of expedition trucks for over 20 years thanks to a crew that tackles every aspect of the purchasing and customization process. Everything from buying and building, to long distance overland travel and selling transactions get attended to by this highly trained team of 4×4 specialists, and getting things right requires “first hand experience with vehicle based travel in rough conditions through remote regions.”

Simply put, Expedition Truck Brokers sources hardcore off-road “wheel estate” for private individuals and professionals in order to provide the ideal vehicle for overland journeys, expedition support, promotional events, and film. While most people would never need something as insane as an 8×6 diesel behemoth, there is a very particular kind of clientele out there that has the bankroll and need for something like what you see here.

It may take 8 hours to parallel park, but this <a href=Iveco Astra HD8 8x6 also features 8 wheels and more torque than an ocean liner | Expedition Truck Brokers" width="757" height="504" />

It may take eight hours to parallel park, but this Iveco Astra HD8 8×6 also features eight wheels and more torque than an ocean liner | Expedition Truck Brokers

While plenty of other heavy-duty RV options are available on the Expedition Truck Brokers’ website, it’s this Iveco Astra HD8 that has our vote for most badass of the bunch. Professionally manufactured in Germany, this chassis has been widely revered internationally as a construction and mining industry staple, but never a weekend getaway machine … until now.

A few of our favorite highlights and features outside of the Astra’s massive cabin and practical living quarters are the highly autonomous multi-climate design that handles both tropical and frigid environments, and the 600 horsepower EURO-5 Cursor 13 diesel engine. There’s also that dedicated motorcycle platform, all those external storage units, and a slew of locking differentials designed to tackle any terrain.

(cheatsheet.com, https://goo.gl/I0gYaI)

Comments

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Saturday, May 6, 2017

Copper pipe electrolysis from touching galvanized steel?

Read article : Copper pipe electrolysis from touching galvanized steel?
topic 24664

An ongoing discussion from 2003 through 2016 . . .

(2003)electrolysis in copper pipe

Q.I recently had a 1/2" TYPE L HMP flexible copper pipe that sprung a leak, unfortunately it was inside the wall going up to the second floor. After splicing the pipe where it was leaking another spot started leaking. I noticed inside the pipe a bunch of green "blobs" & the outside of this (HOT) water pipe a lot cleaner than the other pipe (COLD) that would have been put in at the same time, 20-25 years ago I'm guessing. I did notice one spot where the copper pipe was touching an old galvanized pipe seemed to be wet and green. Could there have been some electrolysis going on that caused this pipe to start getting finer than pin hole leaks & how much damage might have been done to the rest of the plumbing if that is the case?

THANK YOU FOR YOUR HELP,

Alex H [last name deleted for privacy by Editor]
do-it-myself-er - Cedar Rapids , Iowa

(2003)

A.Copper pipes can corrode in at least three different ways, but the differences are quite technical. I would suggest that the corrosion could be induced by a galvanic couple caused by contact with the galvanised pipe and this results in an induced local anodic polarisation of the copper pipe. I would normally expect such a failure to occur where the two pipes come into contact, but if this point is dry, no corrosion will occur and the effects of the galvanised pipe will be transmitted onto the copper pipe where it will react in a more favourable wet environment. Your photograph clearly shows the green copper salts on the inside of the failed straight pipe, so it must have been in an area where the copper is oxidised and failed. The propensity for copper pipes to fail is related to how the pipe was made, the local water composition and the environment it is used in. I would suggest there may be other not be other problems with your copper pipes, as there has already been a failure of an induced polarity, but if there are other non-compatible pipes in contact with each other, there could be a repeat of this. It may be wise to ask a plumber to check your system out.

trevor crichton
Trevor Crichton
R&D practical scientist
Chesham, Bucks, UK

(2004)

Q.I was told by a local plumber that electrolysis can occur in copper pipes when the hot water heating system is part of a forced hot water boiler system. The solution is to put nylon fittings between the copper connections and the galvanized boiler system so as to prevent any electrolysis action from taking place in the copper pipes running throughout the building. I would like to get other opinions since this is an expensive fix and it takes a long time to determine whether the fix in fact works.

Dan W [last name deleted for privacy by Editor]
property management - Juneau, Alaska

(2004)

A.It is the right advise, Dan. For galvanic corrosion to occur you need a metallic circuit and an electrolyte circuit. If you break the conductive metal circuit between the copper and galvanized pipe, galvanic corrosion ("electrolysis")" does not occur. This is not to say that no form of corrosion will ever occur though.

Ted Mooney, finishing.com
Teds signature
Ted Mooney, P.E. RET
finishing.com
Pine Beach, New Jersey
(2004)

A.Copper pipe failure began to occur approximately eight years after completion of a new home in Brewster Co. Texas. The leaks were always in the cold line.

A split-core ammeter revealed a slight current flow between the steel gas pipe and the hot side of the copper system. No current could be detected between the cold copper pipe and the hot, or the steel gas line. This led me to conclude that the cold line was acting as a sacrificial anode between the other two while absorbing all voltage drop.

No electrical bonding could be found.

My solution was to isolate the steel line (which included some galvanized parts), from the copper system with a PVC adapter.

Current flow cannot now be detected unless a jumper is placed between the steel and copper.

Is the problem solved? I don't know! What can be said is that there is no further measurable evidence of electrolytic activity in this particular system.

Sam D [last name deleted for privacy by Editor]
- Alpine, Texas
(2004)

A.As others have mentioned, there are three different ways for holes to develop in a copper line, and I have seen all three.

A typical trade mark of electrolysis is pit on the inside of the pipe where the electrical current has actually eaten away at the piping, this doesn't sound like what is going on.

Another way is corrosion from the outside, normally when the piping in in a damp location with high acid soils, or even in an unsealed sleeve (copper run inside another pipe, usually PVC, and normally from the meter to the house). This is evidenced by pitting on the outside of the pipe.

The last one I have come across, and am still researching, is what it sounds like this gentleman has. It typically will have build-up on the inside of the piping and will often times leave large "blobs" of build up. I don't know what this is for sure, but I do know it isn't electrolysis, and it has nothing to do with water that is too clean (mentioned on another website as a possible answer). I think it has to do with the water quality to a certain degree, but I think it may be the molecular structure not the chemicals used. I think the buildup is a protectant for a "micro-atmosphere" high in maybe hydrogen. But I could be wrong, I am still researching this. I will post any further findings.

Jereme Grisenti
plumbing - Blountville, Tennessee

(2005)

Q.If we were to rivet or otherwise attach a copper sleeve to galvanized chimney pipe, would this cause the galvanized pipe to fail? We have fireplace chimneys on the beach. we have several copper clad chimneys that are doing well, but the maker went out of business. Now we have only galvanized pipe to work with and the outside of it corroding causes an eye sore.

Bryan Malt
- San Diego, California
(2006)

Q.This is a piggy back question.

Three 1/2 inch copper pipes running from my basement to the Laundry room one floor above show the same kind of erosion as the picture accompanying the original question. In each case the green copper salts and pin holes developed where the pipes pass through the floor. You can see the leaking water from below but not from the laundry room level.

After one of two plumbers to replace one of the leaky pipes stated that at one point he felt a very mild electrically shock, I had an electrician check the system. The electrician said he could not find a problem. The electrician checked the system before and after the plumber felt the shock. We could not duplicate the shock with the plumber or the electrician.

The plumber reinstalled the three pipes and wrapped the new pipes in electrical tape at the point where the pipes go through the floor.

Since we have not yet found a source of electrical charge would it be prudent to ground the copper line to an unused galvanized pipe so any current would flow to the unused galvanized pipe? Any help would be appreciated.

Greg Butts
- Stafford, Virginia
(2007)

Q.When copper pipes are plastered over into walls do they need to be protected from corrosion either by cement or plaster?

Mrs M Bridger
Homeowner - Steyning, West Sussex, England
(2007)

Q.I have a brick wall in my bathroom and want to cut a groove in the brick run the copper pipe inside and cement it back up. Will this have a long term effect on the pipe
thanks daz

Dario Ruberto
designer - Toronto, Canada
(2007)

Q.I have some questions regarding electrolysis, or galvanic corrosion between the copper and galvanized water pipes in my house. The house in on a municipal system and it is my understanding that acidic or soft water is not a problem in my area.

I have extremely low pressure in the upstairs bathrooms, and moderately low on the main floor kitchen. In my basement I have galvanized pipes coming in from the street, they supply the hot water heater, and they run the hot water for a few feet beyond the tank. At one point they are connected directly to copper pipes which take the hot and cold supply upstairs to the bathrooms.

I intend to replace the galvanized pipe, but I am trying to decide whether or not to replace the copper pipes going upstairs, and as well the hot water heater.

To make this decision I need to understand a little more about what is going on with the electrolysis. Before discussing the ramifications with the hot water heater, I have the following questions:

1. Where the galvanized and copper connect in the basement, does the electrolysis happen only locally? It seems that the electrons would travel only within the magnetic field created by the metals and therefore only affect the pipes within about a foot or so of the connection. Or, since the water exists through all the pipes, does the electrolysis affect the copper all the way to the upstairs bathrooms?
2. Once the galvanized pipe is removed, will the electrolysis cease? (I understand that new copper and old copper will also create electrolysis but I assume this condition is not as severe.)
3. I understand why galvanized pipe corrodes when coupled with copper but I don't understand why it is that the galvanized pipe becomes filled with gunk on the inside and restricts flow, I would think the corroding would make it get slightly wider on the inside, not more narrow.
4. If I remove the galvanized pipe, can I clean out the remaining copper pipe to make sure there is no corrosive material setting in them? How is this performed?

As far as the hot water heater is concerned, galvanized pipe feeds it and takes the water out of it, however, there is copper flexible tubing that actually connects directly to it. I assume this means the heater has corrosive material in it and will likely not last as long. If I leave the existing heater in place and wait for it to fail, will it contaminate any new piping that I put in?

Also, if I run the new copper water service through the front yard within a few feet of the gas line will this cause electrolysis? If yes, will it affect the pipes inside the house or just in the front yard? Which pipe will get holes and which will narrow? Can I insulate the copper to prevent this?

Justin Zavislak
buyer, hobbyist - Seattle, Washington
July 13, 2008

Q.I have type k copper coming from the main to the shutoff in the house. after reporting a leak it was dug up to be repaired and all was found was a pipe with walls that have thinned considerably and covered in grooves resembling termite damage on wood. it was also riddled with pinholes.

the ground for my electrical is connected to this pipe. could that be a possible cause. please help. there other houses in the area that have had there lines replaced twice in the last 20 years.

thanks, cy

cyrus lambert
hobbyist - conne river, Newfoundland, Canada
July 20, 2008

A.Where I work they were having problems with the copper pipes. The anode rods in the water storage tanks had been all wore down. Plumbers found the electrical system grounding rod had been disconnected & everything was grounding through the plumbing, causing the problems. You might want to check but I think it is a code violation now to ground through your plumbing only.

Alex Hatfield
- Cedar Rapids, Iowa

August 30, 2008

Q.I have a problem identical to to the lead in this thread. Green spots on rigid type L 1/2 in copper pipe with water seepage. This 14+ ft run of pipe is leading from my gas fired hot water heater (after a few short copper fittings) across the drywall finished basement ceiling to a T that feeds hot water to most of the house. I noticed a small spot of mold on the ceiling, cut it open and found this pipe with green spots like the picture above and two of the spots (at different ends of this one section of pipe) have water seepage. There are several other copper pipes , cold water and feeds for hot water heating that have no green spots,(only this one length of hot water has the spots) and also a flexible gas line in the same bay. My fix is to replace this entire length. A difficult job for me, tight spaces overhead, and hope there are no other bad pipe in the house. Please confirm the cause of this. Is it likely to be elsewhere or reoccur?

David Goldman
- W Milford, New Jersey
September 3, 2008

A.In response to the gentleman who experienced a leak on a 1/2 copper pipe and then he split it exposing this thick green blob running on the inside for some unknown length. well from dealing with similar repairs and from years of experience in the field this green corrosion that you are talking about stands far from electrolysis. this green gunk/blob is what we use to solder/sweat our copper pipes with better known as FLUX this product is applied to the outside of the copper pipe once it has been cleaned and reamed. putting too much flux on the pipe and fitting will cause the excess to flow into the pipe and will settle on the inside of the pipe until the system gets energized and water flows flushing out the excess flux. if it was not flushed out and was left as is; guess what? call your plumber.....thanks.

Armando Olvera
- Costa Mesa, California

September 14, 2008

Q.Within the last 9 weeks we have called the plumber 3 times regarding a 4 ft. section of hot water copper piping. Each time a pinhole sealing leak about 4-6 feet away from a recently replaced(5 months ago that our plumber installed) electric hot water heater. After replacing 2 inch copper pipe sections at a time we finely asked him to change a length of pipe but, only last night we developed another leak, a foot over from the new pipe, closer to the water heater. Our house is 15 years old and we use city water. The leaky pipe had green discoloration at the leak points. The plumber says this problem could be expected in this area in homes using well water after about 20 years due to the highly acidic soil but we use city water and our pipes are in the sealing. He's suggesting we may need to replace all of our pipes but it seems strange that the leaks are all near the water heater. Could the water heater be faulty or it's installation be the problem?

Chris McQuillen
homeowner - Crescent City, California
September 14, 2008

A.Hi, Chris. I'd be pretty confident that is has to do with something electrical rather than well water. I think I'd call an electrician rather than calling the plumber again.

Regards,

Ted Mooney, finishing.com
Teds signature
Ted Mooney, P.E. RET
finishing.com
Pine Beach, New Jersey

(2005)September 30, 2008

Q.can a copper water line be spliced to an existing galvanized water pipe line?

Keith Medved
- Dyer, Indiana

A.Hi, Keith. When you transition from one kind of metal pipe to another, the correct thing to do is to use dielectric unions =>

These are unions that include a plastic insulator so there is no metal-to-metal contact. I'm not saying that this is always done, but it is the right way to insure that there can be no galvanic corrosion.

Regards,

Ted Mooney, finishing.com
Teds signature
Ted Mooney, P.E. RET
finishing.com
Pine Beach, New Jersey

October 24, 2008

Q.How can one determine the cause of frequent deterioration of a 3/4" copper water supply line? The section going bad is located underground at the block wall of the foundation. The home owner had to replace this line two times within the past year. The deterioration seems to occur on the outside of the pipe. There were no problems prior to the first replacement of this pipe section 9 months ago. The home has city water and uses a sump pump due to a high level of ground water. I don't know the pH level of the water. The basement is dry, but uses on a "floating slab" to channel away the ground water. I conducted load tests of the electric panel to verify the electric wiring. All tests proved satisfactory with only about .2 amps or less flowing to the ground wire. This is when a 35 amp load is applied to each 120 volt leg. This proves that practically all current is flowing back through the neutral conductor. The electric service is lacking the required two, 8 foot ground rods. There is only one ground rod, and it appears to have been installed as a ground for the telephone system. At this point I'm thinking the corrosion and deterioration was not caused by excessive current flowing top ground via this water supply line.

Dave Baylor
- Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
May 22, 2009

Q.Hi, Our house is 6 years old and from the time we moved in we have had this "green" problem. It has ruined my hair and has left stains in the sinks and toilets. We have had 2 different water softeners and 2 water heaters. We discussed this with the last water softener person and I guess they didn't have a clue about this problem. No one has until I
talked to some nerd at the company that tests the water for the city. He said that it was probably because of the fittings that the water softener company put on the copper pipes and if we didn't rectify the problem, we would eventually have pin size holes in the pipes and leaks! What do we do, who do we call and how do we go about fixing this problem! I want long hair again! Thanks!

Kathy L. Maxwell
- Grover Beach, California
December 8, 2009

A.While replacing the copper piping in a 150 year old home, I was puzzled by the green buildup inside of the pipe. Tracing the pipe I discovered that a ground clamp and wire from the circuit breaker box was connected to the cold water line 15' from the water meter where a jumper wire was also connected to the pipe from the street. In the circuit breaker box the Neutral buss was bonded to the Ground buss. That was okay. I also checked the sub panel to make sure the Ground buss and Neutral buss were not connected.

The wire mains from the electrical meter are aluminum. Current will find the least path of resistance, therefore current leakage to the piping is occurring. The remedy for this is to drive a conductive rod into the ground as deep as local code requires and connect a ground wire. Additionally I moved the ground clamp to the incoming side of the water meter, and removed the grounding jumper. As the water meter has dielectric connections the leakage can not return into the water piping since it is no longer grounded.

Bert Cooper
Equipment Designer - Williamsport, Pennsylvania

June 11, 2010

Q.Type K soft copper pinholes. We are having numerous issues with 3/4" and 1" and even a couple 2" services running from the mainline in the street to the property. 10 years ago or so we started having pinhole leaks appear on the copper always next to a flaired fitting so naturally everyone blamed it on a bad flair, then the specs changed and we were allowed to use compression fittings. This is now happening with the compression fittings as well, now everyone is blaming it on not de-burring the copper properly.

We just had to dig up a leak and found the pinhole leak in the middle of the 1" copper run (no fittings even close) and the copper was in a 4" sleeve under a major street which would eliminate the corrosive soil theory which the supplier will want to use, also the leak was on the top of the copper so a rubbing situation is not the answer. I have a question, is it possible for the copper at the time of production to have impurities introduced causing an electrolysis situation? Do you know of any other town having this problem. The suppliers here have no idea and have never even heard of this problem before which I find hard to believe. Thank you for your time and opinion

Bill Williams
water company - Tucson, Arizona
September 9, 2010

Q.I have recently installed and new water softener with an aerater in my home. My home is 26 years old and several weeks after the installation I noticed a blueish/green tint. I have had the water tested and the copper level is high, can the new system cause this?

Rachele Cancia
home owner -Sunrise, Florida
November 26, 2010

Q.I had an odd situation and was wondering if there is a known reason.
Last evening we noticed water dripping from the ceiling. Upon cutting open the ceiling, I noticed that the 3/4 hot water heating pipe (not sure if supply or return) was pressing firmly against the 1/2 hot water supply pipe, and that a leak had developed in the (smaller) hot water pipe where they touched. Fortunately, the heating pipe was connected to flexible copper to go up through the floor, and I was able to push the pipes apart and repair the supply line easily, but I am concerned what might have caused this leak.

Mike Paulson
former kitchen contractor, retired -falls church, Virginia

December 17, 2010

Below is an excerpt from Wikipedia's "Tap Water" page at en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tap_water

"Pin-hole leaks can occur anytime copper piping is improperly grounded and/or bonded; nonmetal piping, such as Pex or PVC, does not suffer from this problem. The phenomenon is known technically as stray current corrosion or electrolytic pitting. Pin-holing due to poor grounding or poor bonding occurs typically in homes where the original plumbing has been modified; homeowners may find a new plastic water filtration device or plastic repair union has interrupted the water pipe's electrical continuity to ground when they start seeing pinhole water leaks after a recent install. Damage occurs rapidly, usually being seen about six months after the ground interruption."

Q.So if I understand this correctly, adding a union may cause this problem? How does one connect copper pipe to galvanized steel then, or how to bond from copper pipe (cold water line, for example) to iron pipe (gas line, for example)? What materials is the bond conductor made of?

Andy Roberts
-Maynard, Massachusetts

May 13, 2011

A.I have seen electrolysis occur with galv. steel straps, hangers and supports, with copper. It usually occurs at the point.
Pin Hole leaks are mostly caused by incorrect installation of plumbing pipes.
For example, If a plumber uses a pipe cutter, to cut a pipe, it leaves a ridge on the inside of the pipe. This causes a ripple in the flow of water going through the pipe, and will eventually start eating away at the pipe, from the inside out. This was a common occurrence back when track homes were booming, and the track rats were doing high volume production, and not installing correctly.
You can verify this, by separating the pipes at the soldered joint, and stick you finger in the pipe and feel the edge. If you feel a sharp edge, then the fitter never filed the inside edge to remove this. Which this is why it will happen in multiple places in your home. Also the reason it happens more to cold water lines, is because you use your cold water more that your hot.

Keith Van Aalst

-Anaheim California


February 3, 2012 -- this entry appended to this thread by editor in lieu of spawning a duplicative thread

Q.I need to run natural gas to an outside heater. I have a 3/4" gal water line which is no longer used, am hoping to run type 'L' flex 1/2" copper line thru this line to supply gas to out side heater, is that possible or is there something I could wrap the copper with to make it work?

Bob Hendrickson
-Pontiac, Illinois, USA
February 25, 2012

Q.I have a bunch of copper fittings. 1/2", 3/4" & 1"; I had the fittings for a year or more. Some of the fittings are starting to get corrosion on them, a greenish thick coating. What is causing this and how do I control/stop it. All the fittings are new and never used.

Ken Kramlich
-Sacramento, California, USA
February 27, 2012

A.Hi, Ken.

Copper corrodes, but usually not that quickly. The simplest fix is probably to put them in a plastic bag with desiccant. Sodium benzotriazole is a copper preservative. You can use brass lacquer if you are trying to protect them for artistic rather than functional use. Good luck.

Regards,

Ted Mooney, finishing.com
Teds signature
Ted Mooney, P.E. RET
finishing.com
Pine Beach, New Jersey

December 18, 2012

A. After reading all of the postings about plumbing -
There are a lot of factors to touch on.

Any type of pipe can be connected to a different type of pipe with the right connectors that can be found at big box or good hardware store.

The green spots inside or outside of a copper pipe is cause by Flux.
Flux is an acid that is used by plumbers when the copper piped is fitted together and soldered.
When a plumber puts too much flux on the copper fittings or pipe - It stays inside the pipe and causes the pipe and or fittings to corrode because the water does not get hot enough to melt flux in order to get it flushed out of the pipe or fittings.
Even if you air pressure out the lines, all of the flux will not move out of the copper pipe because flux is a paste, and what little amount of flux that does move will stick to any joining type of Copper or Plastic or PVC or Galvanized pipe or fittings.
Green spots on the outside of a copper pipe or fittings usually means the plumber did not wipe off any left over flux on the out side of the copper pipe or fittings, or the copper pipe has started to corrode from the inside out from using too much flux inside the pipe and the flux has made its way to the outside of the copper pipe or fittings and needs to be replaced.

As far as electric or electric ground going through copper - Electricity will slowly soften up the excess flux that was used on the copper pipe or fittings.
As the flux softens, and because Flux is an acid, it will slowly break down the copper pipe or fittings and needs to be replaced.

NOTE:
Most electric or electric ground going through a copper pipe is not a high enough voltage to melt flux -- it will only soften the flux.

NOTE:
If your phone line is grounded to the copper line then this alone is enough to soften the flux.
If you put some flux on both the neg. and pos. post of a small charged 9 volt battery you will find that the flux will soften.
If you leave the flux on the battery the flux will corrode the battery because flux is an acid.

NOTE:
If your phone or cable is grounded to your copper pipe this is enough electric for a person to get a small shock when touching the copper pipe.
After a person touches the pipe and gets a small shock, it takes quite a while for the electric to build back up because the voltage is quite low.
It is because the voltage is so low that when a person touches a copper pipe and gets a small shock you have depleted the electric in the copper pipe and a shock will not happen again until the electric builds back up in the copper pipe.

NOTE:
Anytime you have to run a copper pipe behind a wall that will be closed in, only use HARD copper pipe (NOT ROLLED TUBING OR SOFT TUBING). Place the copper pipe inside of a piece of PVC pipe and do not have any fittings or couplings that have been soldered inside the PVC pipe.
If you need to soldier on fittings - Solder the fittings on after you have cleared the wall that will be closed in. It will also be helpful to use liquid foam between the copper pipe and the PVC pipe to stop any pipes from clanking when the water is turned on or off. You can pre make up the pipe with the foam in order to let the liquid foam set up.

I hope this information is helpful.

Jim Drake
- Fredericksburg, Virginia, USA

April 20, 2013

A.To those dismissing the "green blobs" as residual flux are not understanding what I think are the inquisitors' issues. We built our home in 2004 and within a couple of years we started experiencing problems in our master shower. Initially, I was able to disassemble the hot water supply in the manifolds and clear out the green "blobbish" crystals. Our master shower is large and has multiple shower heads and two shower manifolds. Since then the problem appear to only exist in the master bath "hot" water lines. I have never had any issue with the cold water lines.

To give a little more detail. The green blobs I am experiencing a hard crystals and not any type of pasty or flux consistency. I have found galvanized steel nipples between the copper supply lines and the brass shower fittings. Two years ago the galvanized nipple on the shower with the most serious blockage, had nearly corroded away completely. Fortunately I had decided inspect the inside of the shower wall after suspecting some sort of "electronic" cause. This morning I found the same union on the second shower head that is now almost completely blocked.

I should have recognized something was wrong in the construction of our plumbing lines during the build simply because of the sloppy solder joints. I have a rudimentary knowledge of plumbing as my father was a plumber. Unfortunately, I was traveling extensively and didn't have time to address the bootleg plumbers my builder contracted.
I guess I was depending on the inspectors to alert us of any issues, but I have learned that lesson.

In summary, I would conclude that the green crystals are formed from kind electric current activity in addition to the hardness of your water. Our municipal water is very hard and my water softener is worthless so we are going to rip out the bathroom walls to see what other surprises we have in store and get a new water softening system.

Vaughn Broadnax
- Carmel, Indiana, USA

copper pipe secured with metal straps
May 21, 2013

Q.During a bathroom remodel, the plumber used some metal strapping (likely galvanized steel)to further secure the copper piping from the shower valve to the shower outlet. (see photo) Days later, my contractor had secured a loose toilet supply valve with a plastic part and explained that a metal material could negatively interact with the copper and eventually cause a leak. (I think he himself had just come upon this info when he went to home depot to pick-up the part.)
I then remembered seeing how the plumber used the metal strapping to basically tie back the copper piping. The wall has since been scratch coated and is about to be floated. I've alerted my contractor about this and am awaiting a reply. I really do not want the float to happen until I know for sure that there is definitely no problem with the set-up, or, until it is corrected. Any input on this would greatly be appreciated.

Jack Goldstein
- Mission Viejo, California, USA

May 22, 2013

A.Hi Jack. You need 3 things for galvanic corrosion:
- dissimilar metals so there is an inherent voltage between them,
- metallic contact path between the two metals so that electrons can flow from one metal to the other,
- a moist and conductive ionic path so that positively charged ions can follow the electrons, transporting atoms of metal from one point to another.

You certainly have the first two, but whether the third condition is met well enough for serious concern is always the question, and sometimes hard to define. When such a condition is sealed behind a wall, it sounds to me like poor practice -- then again, I'm not a plumber. You might see if you can find anything in the plumbing code about it. The problem would have been easy to avoid with any kind of plastic between the pipe and strap; you can hopefully get a scrap of Visqueen in between them without much damage to the wall. Good luck.

Regards,

Ted Mooney, finishing.com
Teds signature
Ted Mooney, P.E. RET
finishing.com
Pine Beach, New Jersey

June 3, 2013

Q.Having pin hole issues on the cold water line repeatedly over approx. 8 years -- same area.
The house used to have copper pipe coming in from the street and we did not have a ground strap on it. I can see how the pin holes would happen then. Then the copper pipe was replaced with PVC out to the street so there seemed to be no need for the ground on the street side of the meter, but I left the ground connected on the house side (still copper here). Was this wrong? Still another pin hole problem this year.
Tired of water leaks, Tom

Tom Canarecci
- Mishawaka, Indiana, USA
July 11, 2013

Q.We have an apartment building that keeps getting leaks in the first apartment. I have read everything and understand the problem, but we don't have money to replace all the pipes, so every few months there is a leak. The last time we had to replace all the carpet because it was leaking over a full weekend.

I have been told by one plumber that he heard of a product that can be put in the pipes that would coat the insides and help prevent the pinholes from developing.
Is there any such product?

Also someone told me of a product that can be painted on the pipes like a silicone or latex component that might be able to help.

If you know of any products like this that I can try, please let me know.

Thank you.

Lisa Keylon
- Fountain Valley, California, USA
February 11, 2016

Q. I just noticed there is corrosion at the elbo 90 connector of hot water copper pipe going out of water heater. Both are copper pipes - so wondering what's causing the corrosion. Otherwise I'm planning to
Simply planning to use fix-it stick/Keeny pipe wrap tape as temporary fix until I get time to call plumber to cut the pipe and rejoin.
Please advise:
1) is it ok to fix temporarily
2) if I need to dig in further to find the cause before I fix it.
3) are there any other things I need to check / replace while I'm fixing it.
Btw- this is house is 10 yrs old.

Venu Reddy
- Waukee, Iowa

April 8, 2016

A. You can also use a brass nipple between copper and galvanize .

Rodolfo ruiz
- Pasadena California usa
April 2016

thumbs up signThanks, Rudolfo. Yes, you can use a brass nipple between them ... but I don't think it will do much towards stopping galvanic corrosion.

Regards,

pic of Ted Mooney
Ted Mooney, P.E. RET
finishing.com
Pine Beach, New Jersey
Striving to live "Aloha"

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