The Ogden Standard from Ogden, Utah on April 1, 1918 · Page 11

Read article : The Ogden Standard from Ogden, Utah on April 1, 1918 · Page 11

J L ' THE OGDEN STANDARD: QGDEN, UTAH, MONDAY, APRIL 1, 1918. I r, , RILNT-SEXL-BUY TeSU.t gJ 1 I Classified Ads r THROUGH Standard H 1 Lead STANDARD WANT ADS, w-Ads 111 I WANTED I Female H el p fcfiSSDFirsi class stenographer. Ld Scowcroft & Son. 5038 general housework. Small tamlly 2972 Washington avenue. 4083 M r7nv"to represent Nubone Corset JSpany m Ogden. Phone 2090-J. 4078 flt rnarTtoVork by the day. Mrs. V gjdne) Stevens, Adams. 4"d5 Male Help SRtjng man" collector with bicycle. Pennant position. National, 54 Wash. JJJg W.MFP First c I a - - - lonographrr. jolin Scowcroft & Sons. 5089 5nfjNG man m help make candy A rhiiice to quickly learn a trade that Svs from 5100 to 5150 a month. Goad JjjLg Whlc learning. Greenwell's Confectionery 5013 OOUD salesman wanted Salary and commission. Address with references., Ilox 200. Standard office. 40o- 'ranchmen and sheepmen. We furnish .ill kinds "I ranch In -Ip ind sheep herders to you free. Interstate Employment Agency PbODe1246 H9 2r,th St TWO first -class machinists and two fir-t class bollermakers. Inquire Sup , Oeden Sui,'ir factory, Amalgamated Sugar Co. syyt f. Situation Mp m roofs'"' " " ' v-fyvyx LADY with babe wants work on ranch m 15ox 50 care Standaul 5ul5 3 WOMAN wants work by the day. Pbone 273-J. 4U76 GARDENS ploughed Phone 611. 3924 HEFINL) ycung woman wishes posi- J uon as office assistant in doctor's or ' dontibt's office Bo 10U, care Standard. 1U61 . ! CARPET and rug weaving, Ph. i:3S2 J. i 3553 i CHIMNEY SWEEP. FURNACLS and chimney cleaned. I Leo Bstera, phone lio2. 205U FOR REffl" gpard and Room J J HQME -COOKED meals, 518 25ih St. 3378 : ROOM and board at olS 25th. 3756 i FOR SALE Sewing Machines ANY make tewing machines sold or repaired. Easy terms. Freight paid. ; Walker Electric Co , 150 S. State, Salt I L-ike City. 3848 ! FORSAL OK f RAEj - DRY Una in southern Idaho; iaise wheat and Le independent Fur lnlor- mation address J., care of Standard. U 5002 I m GROCERY store with five modern rooms above. Box 33, care Standard, i .JU26 1 FOR SALE j Washing Machines t GUARANTEED electric washing machines fiG Easy terms. Freight paid i Walker Electric Co., 15D S. State, Salt Lake City. 3849 liALFll 1J. liCNTEIi, Lxtabliahed ; 18S&. Mortgago Loans. Real Estate, Insurance, Utah, : Jabo lauds, farms f and city property. l"ersons desiring to j loan mo. y on good first mortgage security will do well tu consult me. Uood appbcati..a? always un hand 1 24th St , ugdcq, Utah. 3330 W. N. Pierce Agency Real Estate. Insurance, Loans, Notary. 15 Comnier- cial Bank Bldg;. Phone 300. 6 MONEY to loan on roaJ estate eecur- y. J. j. LrummltL 6-21-tl EAE ESTATE, Mor'.saco and Lotas. Kelly & Herrick. G-lfc-tf j WANTED a To Buy lyiT price" p;i Id forsacks. Grout's Grain store, 334 24tb SL 3236 TU buy bouse io be removed to own Pi operti. Address A. T. care Stand - 5016 WANTED' ; senls QLTt.K selling proposition; good men pJ. Boyle Hardware Co. Ask for Jacobs 50Q7 WANTED Good live salesman. Apply 2482 Wash. Phone 1m;. 5008 I FOR SALE j Vacuum Cleaners Pi0IL elecLric. 5-ear guarantee, July $30 freight. Paid. Walker Electric lro-. 159 S. State, Salt Lake City. 81 150 6 PATENT ATTORNEY IrA TENTS, patent drawing, enruraer-tal draft ine industrial Engineering company. 435 Atlas Dlk., Salt Lake JPboae Was. 6260. 6009 TOR RENT I Furnished VW'u nice looms, flghi housekeeping gas, hot and cold water. Phone 1286 2154 Monroe. 5055 MODERN furnished apartment for rent. 429 Hemck. 5062 Fl'RN. housekeeping apts. 2203 Wash. 5059 NICE r-uiny; ,-, ;iMnable; 2650 Madi-son- 5050 THREE clean rooms, pantry, clothes closet, lawn, shade. Phone 1127-M 5027 4-ROOM modern cottage, sleeping porch,; no children; 2531 Lincoln 5085 , NICELY fnrn up -to -date 3-5-rm, apt Ideal location. No children. 2341 Adams' 4051 FOUR room modern house furnished, ! ?20 per month. 1017 Twcntv-first Inquire 9 1 8 Twenty-first. 40S8 1 I -ROOM mod with barn and chicken coops; acre of ground. 2 block? from Harrisville car line. Phone 22C9. 5000 MODERN furnished apartments. 231' -'7th. 4006 ' CoRPJY Apts Modern, reasonable, furnished house. Phono 2925-2566' Wa-li aenue. 4082, " ' -I. HOTEL, 217 Hi. Rooms 82.00 and 82.SO. 4000 1 NKJATLY furnished rooms, 2247 Adams. 3983 ROOMS and hskp. rooms, 2547 Lin- 4003 ! NICELY fur. rooms for gentlemen; hot water, shower bath. 2452 Madi-'son- 3933 j HOUSEKEEPING rooms, 2220 Lincoln. I 3917 HOUSEKEEPING rooms. 2353 Mon-roe- 3873 FURNISHED hskpg. rms. 330 23rd. 3736 NEWLY furnished Apt.. 333 21th. 3510 11 RNiSilED housekeeping rooms and bachelor apartments. 2337 Adams rear. Phone 1686-R. ;;crjl NEATLY furnished rn:s. 333 24th. oo64 PEARL. Twenty-seventh and Grant. Phone 2920. 206 SEE the new Plazn Apts. l'rlces from $23.50 to 37.50 pcu month, including light, heat and gas. Phone 2208. 155 HOUSES and flats. 3634 Grant- 9-18-tl : u ji Unhiriiish&S B A GOOD 6 room modern house, wellj located, close in, cheap to the right . party. J. J. Brummitl, under Utah National bank. 5068 j ONE large room. S4.0Q per month. 3050 I Adams. 5064 j 6-R(i)M house. ?11 . month 1112 25th St. Phone 2676-XV. 50661 3-ROOM house. 2071 Adams. 5053 SMALL house and 4-A orchard on 12th St. Call 1950-R. 5040 A GOOD 4 -room house in the- railroad I district, 12 J. J. Brumniiit. Phone ' 69. "a 1 oS 3-ROOM house, pantry, clothes closets and lights. 2032 Ballantyne. 6U29 SIX room cottage at 1018 Washington. 1 Inquire Mrs. Spencer, court house. 5021 UNFl'KMSl 1 LI four room modern apartment, 2743 Grant. 5uli ONE 7 -room modern house; gas range connected. 2035 Adams. 4074 ARGYLL 3-room modern apt. Phone 1008 -NJ. 4014 5 ROOM modern house. Call 1220 -R. 4019 3 U00M apartment in P ery Apartments. Apply D. H. Peery Estate, Ogden theater. 3LL4 APT., 3 small rooms, partly modern, 510.00. 663 27th St. 3984 MODERN 4-rm. Apt., summer kiichen. Ideal location. Phone 102. 3827 FuR Sale 1917 Ford; call at 32 1 1 Stevens avenue after 5 p. m. 5042 CAR in good running order, good tires, i.r. fl2J,00. Parly leaving. 267C-W jUi7 A 5 PASS. Bulck 6, run less than 1500 mi. 506 Plaza Apts. 3958 WANTED to trade 7-passenger 1917 (handler for ear of equal value in I or 5 passenger. C. A. W. Wrights. USED CARS. WE now have the following used cars ready lor sale: 1 1914 Overland Touring $300 1 1915 Overland Touring 650 1 1916 Overland Touring 550 1 1916 overland Roadster 450 1 1916 Overland Roadster 3oO 1 1916 Overland Six-cyl 1000 1 Grant Six Touring C50 The most of theso cars are rebuilt and repainti d and run and look like new. Terms will be given to responsible parties. BROWNING AUTO CO. 3S87 To ( lean amisle:d woods, rub with a chamois leather wrung out of cold waier, then polish .with a soft duster. i Tor1ale " j ! Real Estate j GARGAINS. Frame house, u blocks from Washington Ave., $1850; $150. $20 principal and interest, I ''j .'ere : room house, fine garden land and other improvements. $1700. irrigated. 67 dry f irms, so-... re pasture, well Improved, 86000 5058 FEDERANL LAND CO. RESIDENCE 230S Adams Ave., on lot 82.5 ft by 132 ft. Mrs James C. Leg-gett, Eastern Hotel, Dunkirk, New York 506O 40 acres all planted to alfalfa; near beet dump, canning factory, school and tc. 18000. 10 acres pood 7 -room house, barn, chicken coops, team, harness and wag on, mower and rake, plow and barrow two cows, 25 chickens This proper is near Ogden on car line. Price 60(n and will take home in town as first payment). It its tanu land ou are 1 looking for see us. J. F. WALKER FARM LAND CO 201 Eccles Bldg Phone 862. A GOOD modern 5 room house, within four blocks of the Union depot, nice lot. trees, everything i,n good shape.: renting tor $20 per month. Only J18Q0, ISQO ash baiftpefl an timi q stm Pili: house is reasonably worth about' $2800 Just the thing for a railroad j man. J. J. Brummitt, under the Utah National bank. 5069 OWNER must sacrifice 5 -room mod hflllin rlrico in l-jroo lr.l orwl xvttr-. j right. Address Z care Standard 5010 7 - room house in good location, large lot, fruit, garden, tc. Only $1900. Easy terms. 8- room house, divided into two large apartments, hoth modern. Exceilenl location; $2400; easy terms Beautiful new 4 -room modern bungalow on large lot. fruit, berries, and j garden. Price $2500. Excellent rooming house proposi lion, best location In city Bargam. 6 - room modem house on bench. Bargain at $290o. Easy terms. 20 acres plow and pasture land. $800. R BERT G AGEE. 374 25th St. Phone 69 1070 AN elegant lot on 25th street, 50x138 feet to alley, with all special taxes paid. Only $800. This is a great bargain. J. J. Brummitt Phone 69. 5069 100 FOOT on 25th Si. facing Brinker Ave. No fine building spot in Ogden A snap. Phone 855 or sue J. C. Nye Ag'cy Co. 602 Eccles bldg. 4090 BY owner 5-room. mod house with gaa, ZU ::"th St. Phone 1685-R 4092 A GOOD rooming house of sixteen rooms, well located and doing a pood business, for sale very (heap on ac-1 count of owner going to war. J. J. Brummitt, under Utah National bank 5069! 7 - room modern frame residence on paved street Snap only $3500. 17 ane form on Washington, near north city limits; full water right. $5o0u 5o foot front lot on 24lh and Harrison ave. Terms. $650 KELLY t HERRICK. 4081 A SNAP. I 17 At RES land on north Washington Ave., near city limits. A part of this is good (arm land, balance first class I pasture. Price only $1650. Will make j terms. E. W. CANNADY 2427 Hudson. 4030 I II.W I, listed, w-ith me forty acres of good oil shale land in the Uintah Basin oil district This oil shale shows, on analysis of sixty gallons of superior oil per ton. This property is owned by a man who ir. not In the oil business and desires to sell the same very cheap. Hero is a splendid opportunity for any one desiring to develop ii or organize a company going in the oil business. J. J. Brummitt. Phone 59. 5069 FARM in eastern Montana r sale or trade for Ogden property. 1017 21st. 3999 3-ROOM bou-,e, part modern, lor $1050. 2250 Jackson Ave. 3981 FIVE room bouse with light and water on a lot 43.8 feet by 165 feet, west front, paved street, close m on Wash ingtou avenue. Lot alone worth $1800. ; The best investment ha Ogden. Ail for $1600. J. A. McCulloch, under First 1 National Bank. 2274 FOR sale or trade lor small acreage, j 322 D. F. 150 plowed, 85 In grain, fenc-1 ed, buildings, horses and Implements ! inclosea canyons fine for cattle. Write to box 15 care Standard. 3645 EVERYTHING for rent. Ogden Rental agency. 374 ' 25th at. Phone 69. 3657 7-ROOM brick bouse, R. R. locality; bargain at $2500; terma. interest 6! per cent. Ph. 1230-R. 3547; LOST J GOODYEAR tire, half-soled, mounted on Baker rim, 34x4 Reward. Return 2478 Washington or phone 409. 4048 SATURDAY, between Adams and1 Washington on 23rd or between 23rd and 24th on Washington, child's white fur neck piece-. Pbune 3257 -M. Call at 878 24th st. 4046 CAMEO brooch. Roward. 1929 Wash 3622 A GENTLEMAN'S gold uulch. Phone 3147 -J 5067 Equal parts of ammonia and whiten - I in: make a Jne, mixture for (lean Ing QjClfal ornaments and furnichings. , Read '.ho LLisitled Adtk I fofTsalj 1 I Rel EsUU j 41- ACRES splendid soil, in city limits Good house, barn, chicken coops, etc Liberal terms. Phone 2263-M 5030 l1; acres splendid land Abundance of water, family orchard, new 4 room modern house, barn, garrage. All good blcjgf Location 12th St. A bargain. J31p0 4 room mod. cottage; has nice sleeping porch. (Perfect beau.) Also good barn and large lot. Price 2QQ0. AIo 5 -room mod. brick. Splendid pjace. Only 4 blks. from Eccles bldg. Price $2700. We have what you want in farms or city property Glad to show vou. nGDEN REAL ESTATE s: BLDG. 243SVi Wash. Ave. Phone (378) te'.ev FOn SALE. 21 acres ';est land m county for to-aiatoes. peas, beets or fruit; 5 acres in bearing apples, 2 acres pasture, 14 acres for general use; sood 4 -room brick house, large barn, cemented cellar, well and ample water right. Ideally located for marketing crops; close to excellent school and on one of the main highways. Will sell on good termd, onlj i 4000.00. J. A. McCULLOUCH Under First Natl. "Bank. 2779 FOR SALE Poultry and Eggi -n-nsu-yn I SETTING hens wanted. Call 1416-J. 4073 I . RHODE Island Red roosters, large whit ducks and duck eggs. Phone 1 584 -M. 4058 1 RHODE Island Red -Eggs $1 per aet-. ting. G. C. Kimes, 51 Ninth st. 1042 HOOVER says. "A hen for every home." The best is wise economy. Arkady Place Hennery booking orders lor dav-old chicks; tremendous demand. Shoot your orde.3 in. A. S. I Smurthwaite, Wellsville, Utah. 3951 , . FOR No. 1 baby chicks, none better or j cheaper, phone Astill, 1157-R. 3937 j EGGS for hatching $3 a setting. Thoroughbreds Columbian Wyandottes. Inquire phone 3233 R. $904 t DAY old chicks. Order early. Best stock only. Grout's teed store, 332 24tb. o 7j TEN young hens aud two cockrcls, White 01 phiugtons. Pbune 32ol-R. 38o3 GUARANTIOED White Leghorn eggs, $1, $1.5o setting 246 1 Harrison. Phuue 1458. 3838 WHITE Wyandottes, cock and eggs, Barred Rock eggs $1.50 a setting. 850 23rd. st. Pbone 2031 - J. 1 FOR baby chicks that are worth your time and labor raising and chicks that will make good layers next winter, see Shafer at Ogden Feed Co. Also all kinds of chickens bought and sold. 3746 BABY CHICKS, S. C W. Leghorn, Utah hatched, from Hoganized stock. Phone 1569-W. Mountain View Poultry Farm. 3733 WANTED j To Rent J (6 OR 7-ROOM strictly modern house, J must be in first class condition, close in on bench; will take 2 -year lease. Gie location and rent. Address Box PX, care Standard 5056 WANTED to rent'a four or five room j modern house by desirable tenants I Phone 766 W. ios7 I . , 1 4 OR 5-room modern cottage for sum-j mer Close in. Phone 317. 5011 FORRENT Acreage A Got.)D lit acre larm, some fruit, good water right, small house, .some orchard. This farm will be rented cheap 10 the right party. If you need a place it will pay to investigate this. J. J. Brummitt, under I tah National bank 5068 FOR RENT 25 acres of alfalfa, with water, also 40 to 50 shares of water stock in the Davis &. Weber Canal Co Davis County Nursery. Phone 14 J-l, Roy. 5065 TWO HUNDRED acres of land, within1 two miles p the Reed hotel. I'onsid-j era bio of this land has plenty of water' right, same will be cut up In tracts to suit tenant. Hero Is an opportunity to have your liberty garden. Will either rent tor cash or part ot ih crop J. J. Brummitt. Phono 59. 5068 I TWo hundred acres of laud, within two miles of the Reed hotel. Consid erable of this land has plenty ol water right; same will be cut up in tracts to .suit tenant. Her,c is an opportunity to have your liberty garden. Will cither rent for ensh or part of the crop, J. j. Brummitt, under Utah Nat"-- ' - 3S85 19 ACRES of excellent tomatoes and 5 acres of various fruits, also good house on main highway near Clearfield. Phone 190. 3iiC j FOR RENT j ONE acre of ground with water. Close in. Cheap. Phono 3050. 2446 Grant ave 3847 HK lelrat)iw off1c; cmull lo-ciwtcl Imuiro J. A. Hoiu & Co., 8408 Hudson. Phoa 332 ft-uu W.'ier in which beef has been wash ed before pogkjng is excellent for planls, especially roses and gerau- iuma. . LFOR SALE Tj MbcellaneotK aNEW pillows, rockers, i arpets and other furniture, cheap. Rear 742 86th 5026 FOR sale Second-hand stake wagon, cheap. Call Goddard'a Packing o. 5049 FOR pale Oak rocker. 6x9 rug; 9627 Monroe. Call mornings. ."a.o.O . . FOR sale or trade A-l fresh milk cow. 1915 Grant. 5033 j 10 HEAD of horses West 28th St. and1 Park avenue. 5032 ! . 1 HORSE, harness and buggy or ex- j change for cow. Phono 2305-W. 6018 j A eoncrote mixer for salo cheap. Phone ' 1560-W 5020 i ' S K TROLA with $25 worth of records; j almost new. Also Pierce bicycle In excellent condition, new nies; will at riflce foi , r(. l). 2.716 Grant Phone 3148. 4091 , ROSE bushes 25c each and up, pansy 1 plants 25c a dozen. 2861 P'lngrei nue Phone 1225, or Pineree Ft ed store, 2616 Washington avenue Phone 799. 4086 TEAM, wagon, harness for sale. Will trade for property. 1650 Wash. 4080 HOUSEHOLD furniture. Rear 300 21st street. Phone 2937-R. 4059 HORSE, wagon, buggy and shafts, for sale Annlv SnniinerlH'Q store. Rena.il store. 4054 TWO brood sows for sale 240 W. 20lh st. 4047-B TWIN motorcycle, just overhauled. New tires $60. Phone 1923 M 1056 ; head high-grade Jersey cows and heifers. $425. Phone 1573. 4u57 j ROOMING house m best part of city; lurnitur" and furnishings all extra I good. Call and see. 202 23rd SL 3927 I FOR sale Delivery wagon, Ogden I Steam laundrj . 388) STOCK soda fountain and complete up-to-date fixture slightly used for a I confectionery store. Good location uptown to rent store room. Compelled to sell. A bargain. A. H Malouf, 176 25th street, Ogden. Phone 435-J. 3822 A rectifier, good as new. Inquire H. C. Bigelow. 3666 HNE targe safe cheap. W. D. Brown, 808 Eccles blag. 3594 , . POTATOES $1.25 per hundred. Tel. 1574. 3592 1M TOUTED canaries. 2220 Lincoln Ave. 14 SIX large 6acks ot kindling wood, $1. J. a. Wheelwri&bt. Phono 823. 748 TEAPOT dome oil Is the stock to buy Ollice 106 Tw enty -fifth st. 3101 SECOND-HAND goods bought and cold at reasonable prices. 1800 Wash Phone 686-J. 3082 JIM'S GROCETERIA Is run like the postoffice. Small buyers get the sani? puce as large one3. Cuatomero save the cost ot delivering, oookkoeping and clerks, Eerytiiing in groceries la cheaper. 183 24th StreeL 6-1-ti If DR3SMAK1NG j I ht.ils 1 1 1 LiiiNU ana picoc, iuc una ' 16c a yard. Fancy buttons. Madame Laplau's Gown Shop. 3rd lloor Wrigkts. 1504 LJLDIE6'tailorlng.2&3 Uadlsuu. 1932M 3-lo-iyr. j toFsale i Farms j IDAHO RANCHES FARMS and ranches, some with cattle. Terni9. Federal Land Co. 493 LEGAL NOTICES SUMMONS. In the District court of the Second Judicial district in and for the county of Weber, state of Utah. Adelaide M. Fritz, plaintiff vs. Will lam C. Fritz, defendant. The state of I'tah to the said defendant You are hereby summoned to appear within twenty days after service of this summons upon you, if served within the county m which this action Is brought; otherwise, within thirty da s alter service, and defend the above entitled action: and in case of your failure so to do, judgment will be rendered against you according to the demand of the complaint, which, has been filed with the clerk of said court. This action is brought to obtain a judgment and decree dissolving the bonds ot matrimony, now and hitherto existing between the plaintiff and deft ndant herein. HARRIS & JENSON. Plaintiff s attorneys. P O. address 405 David Eccle.i building, Ogden, Utah. SUMMONS. In the District Court of Weber County, State of Utah. Louisa Hesse, Plaintiff, vs. Alma E. Hesse, Defendant The Siate of Utah to Said Defendant: You are hereby summoned to appear within twenty days after seryipi gt this summons upon yon, if served within the county in which this action Is brought, otherwise, within thirty daya after service, and defend the above entlUed action; and in case of your failure so to do, judgment will be rendered aKainst you according to the demand uf the complaint, which has been filed with the clerk of said court. Tbls action fa brought to recover a Judgment dissolving the marriage contract heretofore existing between you and the plaintiff, likewise a decree gvrB the plaintiff the custody of, your min cdcaijtSj ajid .general j I ijIB'a(SipjflBHHpHpjpj relief, and restoring her maiden mra, STUART P. DOBBS, riaintiff's Attorney. P 0 Address 515 David Eccles Building. O'drn. Utah. First publication March 18, 191S. last publication April 22, 1918. SUMMONS. In the District Court of Weber County, State of Utah. George F. Spratlin::, Plaintiff, vs Alice K. Spratling, Detr-ndant The Stale of Utah to the Said De fendant: ou are hereby summoned to appar within twenty days after sen ice of this summons upon you. if served Within the count in which this action is brought; otherwise, within thirty days after sen ice, and defend the above entitled action; and in case of your failure so to do, judgment will be rendered against you according to the demand of tho complaint, which has been filed with the clerk of said court This action is brought to recover a judgment dissolving the marriage contract heretofore xisting between you and the plaintiff. J. D. MURPHY, Plaintiff's Attornej. P. O Address 315-310 First Nat'!. Bank Bldg.. Ogden. Utah. Date of first publication March 18. 1918; date of last publication, April 22, 1918. When washing silk or cotton gloves, Iron them when nearly dry. This greatly Improves their appearance. VERY PROPERLY. "How would you manage the march of righteousness?" j "I'd perform it on an upright ; piano." LEGAL NOTICES NO i ICE Of Special Meeting of Stockholders of Roel Asphalt Company. Notice is hereby given that there will be a special meeting of the stock- 1 holders of the Rozel Asphalt company, a corporation, with its principal place : of business at Ogden, Utah, to be held ! at the court room of Judge A. E Pratt. in tho Weber county court bouse, at Ogden, Utah, at the hour of 8 o'clock p. m . on April 2nd, 1918 Saia meeting is called for the pur pose of considering and voting upon the propositipn pi amending the articles of incorporation of said corpora -lion namely. Article Six thereof, by increasing the capital stock p 25Q,0QQ I shares of the par value of $100 per share, to 750,000 shares of the par value of $1.00 per share. i Said meeting is called under and by dlrei tion 6l the board of directors uf I said company. Dated this 11th day of March. A. D.. 1918. LEONARD PRUETT, Pre; . FRATCRNAI i Queen City Kebkan Lode, No. 4, I. O. O. tuei-La iji.u 1U1U imui .m .3aiarUa.y cveniaga ui uuu rcliutvd' u u;. , . Uicmocrd mueu, tiicpiie-na, ., u. I Luju Ciuuuuiiui, Kciuiumj; Secretary, -Jlo j k iii Uuicu ttvciiua. i Lroiliei hciuu oi' American Xtomrn, Og-1 deu liuu.vJi.eaU iu, lovn, UieetS eve-cy HtuiK.-'Kj eveliiiiK III I. C U. V. liall, I i-raleJUU Ouiluai', UainiQtiiuu , uvfcnue. W. L. Aiuurv, furcuian: J A-1 juuh. Corresponuent, j-uj kva4mhgtou aveuue. u.tuio always uukuinc C'b'leD l-oUtc iiu. tJii, i-ual Uftlec u. ' liuusu uitelo every i-iiUay mglil at lb o eioeix. -aou-e luiil, iiilb VVaoiuu-uu 1 hainu&o, ecie-eajy, Itil Cul. Uutiuu iiu. I .'unerieau fclSSOUic Jreueruuon (Lucer- lucb eveiy jduuua) o y 1)1., at Juj Zilll OU JilUiCo Jl.ltutlli, Ik . 111., u9i a.... AVC C. A" -lUilui, Oktlvim;, .ju. W a... AVU. V U.IUIO IU l uj O Ik (.KUIUK. liie uiuaU lieotiit A.jucial.lOtt ol Uic ddaecaueiM., buVti lanun, ip. 1, luelu luu 11 auu via tf'i'iuaji (..uiu0j ui 0 u eiueu, dUu cue -na uni tui i liuaj all-clliuuuu ai ..iU ei eieico. 1U luu ti uuuiuail nan, -o'J tusii. Ave. v ui ciiio nlvuiuei'd ui'.ueu. Luil.uU'J tt i.JU'1, L. C , Je'U- uiu i iviii, tL iv., 'dib Van uuicu Ave, Mitioinc Quel. Laihei Chapter, iNu 1, U. ill. Si., iCbaial QlCVLlilga llpiil ai ji.iouli-ic hall uu V aluii0 ion Ave., uelwecli -oill UJlel .OUl U., lno 1,1'S t auu einiu I'l.aaJ 01 cavil uicuui. uuiuujg uitiuuou eeii -euaiiy luVlied lo ueieuu. i-aua al llaiuliJ, U. Al. , lUiua J- liuiu, oeeiu-lai y. 'ihe liuyai Hlglilandors, uyde-n Castle liiveli ill lat,ies liail oU CiiaUL avetiuo every tecoiiu auu iuii.cn iiivouj . CVeUlll"sl al 0 ueieiv.tL. ytMUAg 11'bUtaliu- ' ueH euiuiau.. iiuilea. fV, Vv . n uib, UI. I'lO., 1. V l laiU, buclcUi) -iicajue,!, Royal .n eib'it'ui o ui America meets ever) SCCOttO auu luuilli jieiuiiay n.uu 01 eaeli muuUi al 6 o ClOCK ul eilu U6W UdU J'llu.u tiail, tluUiUili OUlluiUS V10tUOS ntslgUUOi'iJ mvuea. .Uaiy DUiiy, I oracle, iiii u minus, Nettie X'urnef, Kceuiue-l, V uu J-ureU. Woodmen ui .lie Wori(i Weber Camp. Isu it. UieelS lO tne . u. . liall. l ia-leiull Uluviv, 2'Ali) ai-iiiuji luu aienuc, cuy TUunida) evening at 6 o eioerc imhHq Woodmen coruiaily invitAU u alleuu. Matliew Ualt, C. C; Wrr I ijipiler, Clerk. P. U. LOX 488. L lah Cainu No O'J'jv. Modem Woodmen of Aiuuiiea, uioeia cuvry U euiie-uay mgiii m Uie Uurat haii, 243y Huosoa jVvc. uui ui iuuu iiiciubcid cuiuiaiiy iuued to meet wun us. W. n. aunu sun, CuUoui. J. R. HinChCillf, CieiK. I Oden Lodge No. 5 lnueuendent Orddr Ol Udd PellOWa, uieclit lu t. U. KJ. b'. liall Syery lueoua eveouis. dialling uiuiu- tti eofUlaiO UU VI led lo li HeuUL H. f. Prank l-'uliaru, u. Henry lvlsseil, beeietaj-y. 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Should you live in an RV? Here’s why some young people are ditching homes for the nomadic life.

Read article : Should you live in an RV? Here’s why some young people are ditching homes for the nomadic life.

The days of living in the same home until you retire are becoming as outdated as that pair of denim jeggings stashed in the back of your closet. Some millennials are ditching the notion of the white picket fence altogether and opting instead for a home that will travel: better known as a recreational vehicle or “RV.”

To cut expenses — think, five-figures for a used RV versus six-figures for a home — and live less tethered to one city, young people are increasingly drawn to the “house on wheels” concept. The chance to take road trips without paying for hotel rooms and restaurant meals doesn’t hurt either.

RV ownership is at an all-time high, with more than 9 million households owning an RV as of April 2017, according to the Recreation Vehicle Industry Association. With ownership up 16% since 2001, buyers between the ages of 35 to 54 make up the largest share of owners.

What would prompt someone to reject the age-old tradition of home ownership? For Chris Trenschel and Tamara Murray, who moved out of their California condo and into a camper van, it was the desire for more meaningful life experiences. “We were dead inside,” Murray told Vice in February 2016. “Travel, learning about new cultures and meeting new people, having meaningful experiences — that’s what is important to us.” Like many millennials, Trenschel and Murray began working remotely so they could travel as much as possible.

Other young professionals have similar stories, where they had previously established what appeared to be the perfect life, only to discover that instead of owning possessions, the possessions owned them. Selling everything, finding remote work and purchasing a house on wheels, such as an RV, trailer or motor home, pushed the reset button on their lives and allowed them to embark on a new life adventure.

What are the upsides to buying an RV?

The movement to bypass or delay a traditional home purchase makes sense as millennials prefer experiences over things. Millennials “aren’t spending our money on cars, TVs and watches,” Taylor Smith, CEO and co-founder of employee benefits firm Blueboard told CNBC. “We’re renting scooters and touring Vietnam, rocking out at music festivals or hiking Machu Picchu.” In fact 78% of millennials in a 2014 Eventbrite poll said they would rather spend money on an experience rather than purchasing an item.

This includes young families like the Podlahová family, who purchased an RV so they could see the country from their RV. While the family lives in a condo in Foster City, California, Michelle Tsai Podlahová said in an interview they purchased their RV so they could continue to camp and enjoy nature with their two young sons.

The Podlahová family on an RV adventure

Source: Michelle Tsai Podlavhová

“We decided to get one because we used to camp and hike before we had kids and still wanted to do it with them,” she said. “Camping is really difficult with little ones, but the RV allowed us to still be in nature, but with the added comfort of having our own bathroom, shower and being able to cook food.” Podlahová and her family love their RV so much, they decided to ditch a traditional Christmas this year and instead spend the holiday traveling the countryside with the kids in the RV.

What are the real costs of RV life?

Aside from the allure of travel, RV or mobile living can save you over $139,000 over 15 years, according to calculations from the travel site Wand’rly. First off, a used motorhome can be relatively affordable, with an average cost of about $35,000. But even a new RV would save you money.

Consider this example: You purchase a home for $343,000 (the average home price in 2015), which includes a monthly mortgage payment of $1,310, utilities at $240, property taxes at $150, insurance at $50 and homeowners association fees for about $300 per month. Over 15 years you end up paying around $437,600. (This estimate does not include gas or parking fees.)

Compare this expense to purchasing a new motorhome, which goes for about $122,000. Your monthly payments could be a little higher at $1,380, but you don't have to worry about utilities and property taxes. Insurance could run about $135 a month. Over 15 years, your total approximate expense is $297,900. That’s $139,700 less than you’d spend on your home.

For those interested in just using their RV for a vacation, you still save cash. A party of four traveling by plane, renting a car, eating meals in restaurants and staying in a hotel would spend about $4,045 for a seven-day trip, according to Recreation Vehicle Industry Association estimates. Travel by RV, on the other hand, can get your costs down to $2,035 for a seven-day vacation, for a savings of over $2,000. (This excludes the RV purchase price.)

Before you buy

While you can save money on travel and homeownership living in an RV, do your research before taking the plunge. Here are four key things to consider:

1. Rent before own

If you aren’t 100% sure RV life is for you, rent one for a period of time to see if you like it, Go RVing.com suggested. Typical rent prices can range from $50 to $450 per night for a newer motorhome, RV Share reported. This will also help you figure out which amenities are most important to you and how much you can afford.

2. Decide whether to buy new or used

While a used RV will be significantly less expensive, consider some of the same factors you might ponder if you were to purchase a new or used car. Before purchasing a used RV, consider depreciation, if the vehicle is under warranty and if you can spot any unknown damage, TripSavvy advised.

3. Have a parking spot

Unless you live in a suburban or rural area that allows you to park your RV in your driveway you’ll have to consider where to keep it when you aren’t traveling. RV parking spots can run anywhere from $50 up to $450 a month depending on the size of your RV and needs, Storage.com stated.

4. Factor in extra costs

Maintenance, gas and the sales tax on your initial purchase can all add up. Gas is surprisingly expensive since most RVs only get six to eight miles to the gallon. That means you could drop as much as $10,000 on a 20,000 mile trip around the country, Kiplinger estimated. Maintenance costs include $2,500 for tires, $1,700 to replace carpets, $182 for a new toilet and $120 to upgrade your thermostat, according to AxleAddict.com.

Is the nomadic life right for you?

After you’ve figured out the practical side, it’s time to do some soul searching on whether RV life is really what you want. Although you can save cash and travel, it’s wise to have a serious talk with your partner (and yourself) about whether life on the road is your true calling. Make sure you can deal with living in a small space without a large shoe closet and room for a lot of clothes and accessories, as well as put up with your partner's items or clutter.

No matter how fun it might sound to travel at the drop of a hat, it’s definitely not for everyone. “Trulia’s research shows that many millennials would rather live in a more traditional home and neighborhood,” Lynnette Bruno, Trulia’s real estate and lifestyle expert said in an email. “The inclination that we see among young adults to live in RVs, yurts, shipping containers, micro-apartments and tiny homes is more of a reflection of how hard it is to find and buy an affordable home in today’s market.”

Be realistic about the nuisances you may encounter. Those with olfactory issues may be put off by some smells that are amplified in a small space, plus you may have more mold and mildew than what you’d find in a regular home, the RV Nomads notes. You may also encounter noisy neighbors at some campgrounds, and you should be open to rotating through a variety of doctors, dentists and mechanics, since you’ll be moving a lot.

See the country in your RV.

Source: Travel Math/Pinterest

But for those who find the journey to be more exhilarating than the destination, RV ownership may be ideal for you. Just do your homework and have a budget to ensure you can not only afford to purchase an RV but maintain it for years to come.

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How to Lay Tile: Install a Ceramic Tile Floor In the Bathroom

Read article : How to Lay Tile: Install a Ceramic Tile Floor In the Bathroom

Cover up an old floor

Whether you’re replacing an old shabby floor or installing a new one, you can’t beat ceramic or stone tile for durability and appearance. When laid properly, it’s virtually a forever floor that requires almost no care and maintenance. And you can select materials from a vast array of colors and textures. We’ll cover how to lay tile in a few steps.

What’s equally attractive is that you can lay a first-class tile floor yourself, often in one weekend, and save the $500 to $1,500 cost of hiring a pro.

The key to keeping the job simple is to cover the old vinyl or other flooring with a new thin underlayment that gives you a fresh, clean start. No messy tear-out and repair. In this article, we’ll demonstrate how to install a thin “backer board” over the old floor. Then we’ll cover tile-setting techniques, from layout and cutting to grout and cleanup.

This is a two-day project for most bathrooms, even if you don’t have any previous tile experience. If you’re comfortable using basic hand tools and have the patience to align tiles just right, you can handle this job. The entire cost of this project for a typical bath ranges from $300 to $600.

Estimating the Cost of a Tile Project

The tile itself will be your biggest cost, so start by measuring the square footage of the floor. Then add 10 percent for cutting waste. If you choose a more complex layout than the simple grid pattern we used, your waste will be greater. Most tile sells for $5 to $15 per square foot, but you can spend as little as $3 or more than $50. If you have to install backer board, add $2 per square foot to the cost of the tile. Other materials will cost about $90, regardless of bathroom size. The tile tools you’ll need (including a tile cutter) will total $60 to $80.

Assess your floor

The success of any tile job depends on a solid base, that is, a floor that flexes very little as you walk across it. If you have a concrete subfloor, this isn’t an issue. You can lay tile directly over the existing vinyl as long as it’s well adhered.

If possible, avoid tearing out vinyl flooring. Leaving it in place saves time, of course, but it also reduces asbestos hazard concerns. Asbestos was used in sheet vinyl and vinyl tile until the mid-1980s. By leaving the vinyl undisturbed, you won’t risk sending asbestos fibers into the air.

If you have a wood subfloor, there’s a good chance that you’ll have to install backer board over your vinyl to make the floor thicker and stiff enough for tile. The easiest way to see flooring thickness is to pull off a floor register. Otherwise look for plumbing passageways through the floor. As a last resort, drill through the floor with a 1-in. or larger spade bit (your new floor will cover the hole later). To prevent asbestos dust from becoming airborne, mist the bit with a spray bottle as you drill. In addition to floor thickness, you’ll need to determine joist spacing. If there’s an unfinished basement or crawlspace below the floor, simply measure the spacing. If there’s a ceiling, probe for joists with a drill bit.

If the joists are spaced 16 in. apart, the layers of structural flooring beneath the vinyl should add up to at least 1-1/8 in. With joists every 24 in., you need 1-1/2 in. If your floor is too thin for tile, add a thicker layer of tile backer board. Our floor required 1/4-in.-thick backer. Yours might need 1/2-in. backer to reach the minimum thickness. If your floor is already thick enough, you can simply prep the vinyl floor (Photos 1 – 4) and skip the backer installation (Photos 5 – 8). Then tile directly over the vinyl, following the same steps we used over backer board.

Regardless of the type of subfloor, there are two situations where you can’t leave vinyl in place: First, if large areas of the vinyl are loose, don’t set tile or backer over it. Small loose spots are acceptable and easy to deal with (Photo 4).

Second, “cushioned” sheet vinyl must be removed before you can set tile. Cushioned vinyl has a foam backing that makes it noticeably thicker and softer than standard vinyl flooring. It’s too spongy to support tile or backer board. Before removing it, call your local health department for instructions on how to check for asbestos and proper procedures if asbestos is present.

Gather Advice While You Shop

Home centers carry everything you need for this project, but begin shopping at a tile store, where you’re more likely to get expert advice. Make a quick sketch of your floor plan and jot down all the dimensions. Also take a photo of the floor at the doorway. This will help the tile store staff recommend a “transition” to neatly join the tile to the hallway flooring. Transitions come in different styles to suit any situation.

When you choose the tile itself, ask if it requires any special installation steps. Some tile, for example, should be coated with grout release before grouting. Also ask about cutting techniques for the tile. You’ll use sanded grout for the floor. Ask if sanded caulk is available in a color that matches your grout for the floor/tub and floor/wall tile joints.

Prepare the room

First, get the toilet out of your way. Stuff a rag in the hole to block sewer gases. If your home only has one toilet, you can leave it in place until you install the backer board. Keep a supply of wax rings on hand if you plan to reinstall the toilet at the end of each day.

If you expect to keep your vanity for many years to come, leave it in place and tile around it. But if you think you might replace it, remove it now. When the job’s done, you can reinstall the old vanity or put in a new one. Having the vanity out of the way gives you more workspace, and you won’t have to cut backer board and tiles to fit around it. This also eliminates the floor repair problem if you install a smaller vanity or pedestal sink in the future.

Pull off the baseboard or plan to add base shoe molding. This leads to a neater-looking job because the edges of the tile will be covered later—jagged cuts and slight measuring mistakes are hidden. If your baseboard has base shoe molding, remove only the base shoe. Backer board and tile will raise your floor 3/4 in. or more. So you’ll have to remove and undercut the door. To mark the door for cutting, stack backer board, tile and two layers of cardboard on the floor (see Photo 3). Mark the door 1/2 in. above the stack, remove the door and cut off the bottom.

Scrub, screw and patch the floor

Photo 1: Scrub the floor with stripper

Remove the baseboard and toilet. Using an abrasive pad, scrub the floor hard with water mixed with vinyl floor stripper.

Photo 2: Drive screws into the floor joists

Mark the floor joists with chalk lines and drive 2-1/2-in. screws every 8 in. Don’t leave any screw heads protruding.

Photo 3: Cut the door trim to accommodate tile

Undercut door trim using a jamb saw or handsaw. A piece of backer board, tile and two layers of cardboard raise the saw to the correct height above the floor.

Photo 4: Fill low spots with thin-set

Cut out any loose sections of vinyl with a utility knife. Fill the void with thin-set using the flat edge of a notched trowel.

Scrub the floor with a vinyl floor stripper following the manufacturer’s instructions. The stripper will dissolve wax and other residue. Scrub hard with an abrasive scouring pad (Photo 1). The tiny scratches left by scrubbing help the thin-set bond better.

Next, drive screws through the floor into the joists (Photo 2). This ensures that the subfloor and underlayment are securely fastened. If there’s an unfinished basement below the floor, locating the joists is easy: Go to the basement and drill a couple of 1/4-in. holes up through the floor next to a joist. If you can’t locate the joists from below, pick a spot near one wall and drill a hole. If the bit breaks through into hollow space, move over 1 in. and drill another hole. Keep going until you hit a joist. Then go to the opposite wall and find the other end of the joist. Measure at intervals of 16 or 24 in. from the first joist to locate the others.

While you’re driving screws, look for any spots where the vinyl has loosened from the floor. Cut out loose spots and fill them (Photo 4). If there are any copper pipes that pass through the floor, wrap them with duct tape at floor level. Cement-based thin-set and grout can corrode copper.

Install backer board

Photo 5: Install backer board over the floor

Cover the floor with backer board. Cut inside corners, circles and curves with a drywall saw. Space pieces 1/8 in. apart and hold each one in place with two temporary screws.

Drywall saw

Use a drywall saw to cut corners, circles and curves in backer board.

Photo 6: Score and snap the backer board

Make straight cuts with a scoring knife. Make three or four scoring passes, then snap the backer over a 2×4. When all the pieces have been laid out, label them and set them aside.

Scoring knife

Use a scoring knife to score the backer board.

Photo 7: Trowel on the thin-set

Comb out a bed of thin-set just large enough for each piece of backer board using a 1/4-in. notched trowel held at a 45-degree angle. Screw the backer down before spreading thin-set for the next piece.

Notched trowel

Use a 1/4-in. notched trowel to spread the thin-set over the floor.

Photo 8: Cover the joints

Press adhesive-backed mesh tape over the joints and skim over the tape with thin-set. When the thin-set is firm but not fully hardened, scrape away any ridges with a putty knife.

The backer board is fastened with a combination of screws and thin-set adhesive. Cut and lay out all the pieces before you mix the thin-set (Photos 5 and 6). You can run the sheets in any direction, but be sure to stagger the joints so you never have four corners meeting at one point. Leave a 1/8-in. space between the sheets and along the vanity, tub or shower. The gap along walls must be at least 1/8 in. wide, but a wider gap (about 1/2 in.) makes the panels easier to set in place.

After cutting and fitting, label the location of each one and set them all aside. Vacuum the floor and have your drill and screws ready to go before you mix the thin-set. Read the thin-set’s label. Spread the thin-set with a 1/4-in. notched trowel. Comb in one direction so air can escape when you embed the backer (Photo 7). Drive screws every 6 in. around the perimeter of each piece and every 8 in. “in the field” (across the face of the panel). If the leftover thin-set is still workable, you can immediately embed mesh tape over the joints (Photo 8).

If the thin-set has become too stiff or chunky, mix a new batch. Use “alkali-resistant” tape that’s meant for backer board. While the tape coat of thin-set hardens, run a putty knife over all the screw heads to scrape off the “mushroom” bulges around screws. Drive in any protruding screw heads you come across.

CAUTION!

Cement products like thin-set and grout draw moisture from skin and can even cause burns that require medical attention. While most pros work bare-handed, wear gloves if you have any special sensitivity. Also wear eye protection while mixing thin-set and grout.

Figure A: Ceramic Tile Over Vinyl

Everything you need for this project is available at home centers. Most of what you need is also available at tile stores.

Careful layout pays off

Photo 9: Test your layout to avoid small pieces along the walls

Dry-lay tile to determine the best layout. Start with centered rows, leaving equal spaces at walls. Then reposition rows until you find the optimal layout.

Photo 10: Attach guide boards to guide the layout

Screw guide boards to the floor following your chosen layout. Position the guides so you can lay all the field tiles without moving the guides. Make sure the guides are at right angles by measuring out a 3-4-5 triangle.

Too often, tile novices simply start setting tile in a corner and continue along two walls until the floor is covered. Sometimes they get lucky and the floor looks good. But more often this method leads to trouble:

They end up with awkward-looking, thin slivers of tile along a prominent wall or at the doorway. And the tile looks even worse when walls are badly out of square or crooked—a straight grout line running too close to a wall emphasizes the wall’s imperfections.

Whether you’re laying a simple grid pattern like we show here, or a diagonal pattern with a border, the best tile layout usually calls for centering full tiles between walls so the partial tiles along the edges will end up all the same size. Don’t rely on your tape measure and mental arithmetic. Rip open a carton of tile, grab a handful of spacers and experiment with your layout on the floor.

To begin, center rows of tile between walls so you have equal spaces along walls that face each other (Photo 9). Set the two rows parallel to the two most prominent walls. Then make adjustments, trying to achieve these three goals:

• Use full tiles at doorways and along the bathtub or shower. These are usually the only places where the edges of the floor aren’t covered by baseboard. If you use full tiles in these exposed spots, you don’t have to worry about making smooth, perfect cuts.
• Avoid narrow tiles along walls. Ideally, you’ll end up with tiles cut to half size or larger. Avoid cutting tile to widths less than 2 in.
• Minimize cutting and try to avoid difficult cuts. For example: Cutting tile to an L-shape to fit around an outside corner is especially difficult when one arm of the “L” is less than 2 in. wide. The arm tends to break off as you cut.

Chances are, your layout won’t meet all these goals. Because the shower stall was the focal point in our bathroom, we made it our No. 1 layout priority. We chose to use full tiles in front of the shower. That left us with 3-in.-wide tiles along the opposite wall, which was less prominent. We also chose to center the tile rows on the shower; that meant we had to use cut tiles at the doorway.

Once you determine a layout, establish lines to guide your tile positioning. The usual method is to snap chalk lines on the floor. But chalk lines are hard to see after you’ve spread thin-set, and one row of tile may slip as you set the next row. Here’s a more reliable guide: Choose straight boards a foot shorter than the length and width of the room. Tape one edge of each board so thin-set won’t stick to them.

Then screw the boards to the floor at a right angle to form a guide that eliminates guesswork and shifting (Photo 10).

Video: Create Your Own Floor Tile Layout

Planning the layout for a tile project is usually the hardest and most time- consuming step. Watch this video to learn how a pro does it. You’ll see how to snap chalk lines and make sure they are perfectly square. Plus, you’ll learn how to avoid unsightly narrow, difficult-to-cut tiles along a wall. Don’t start a tile project until you’ve watch this video!

Set the tile (finally!)

Photo 11: Set the full tiles

Comb out a few square feet of thin-set and set tile against the guides. Continue until all the full tiles are in place. Tip: Watch for squeeze-out between tiles and rake it out with tile spacers.

Spacers detail

Keep the gaps between tiles even by using spacers

Photo 12: Spread thin-set and set the perimeter tiles.

Cut and set the perimeter tiles after the thin-set beneath the full tiles has hardened. In spaces too narrow for your trowel, comb thin-set onto the backs of tiles.

It’s usually easiest—and most efficient—to set tile in two phases: First set all the full “field” tiles (Photo 11). Then, when the thin-set has hardened for several hours, cut all the perimeter tiles and set them (Photo 12). Here are some tips for both phases of the job:

• The trowel you use for setting tile may be different from the one you used to embed the backer. The thin-set label tells you which notch size to use relative to tile size.
• Dampen the backer with a sponge just before applying thin-set. This keeps the thin-set from drying out too quickly.
• Comb the thin-set in one direction so air pockets won’t be trapped under tile.
• Open three or four cartons and mix the tiles as you set them. Pattern and color vary slightly from one carton to the next.
• Don’t just set each tile into place; press down on the tile and wiggle it to embed it firmly in the thin-set.
• Watch for “tipped” corners. When you press a tile in place, it’s easy to tilt it slightly so that one corner stands higher or lower than neighboring tiles.
• When you complete a section of tile, inspect it before moving on. Make sure the tiles line up correctly and spacers are in place. Wipe any thin-set off the face of tiles with a damp sponge.
• When the thin-set becomes chunky or too stiff, throw it away and mix more. Never try to extend the life of thin-set or grout by adding water.
• Cut perimeter tile so that caulked joints (at tub) are the same width as grouted joints.

Prepare the floor for grout

Photo 13: Install an extension ring over the toilet flange

Remove the old screws from the toilet flange and apply a heavy bead of silicone caulk. Fasten the extension ring over the old flange with stainless steel or brass screws.

Photo 14: Install the transition strip

Glue the transition into place with construction adhesive. If carpet meets the transition, you may have to add a new tack strip.

Photo 15: Stuff backer rod along the wall

Push backer rod into joints that will be caulked later. The foam rod keeps grout out of joints. After grouting, pull out the rod and caulk the joints.

When all the tiles are in place and the thin-set has hardened, remove all the spacers. Next, raise the toilet flange by adding an extension ring or two (Photo 13). The extended flange should be flush with or higher than the surrounding tile.

When you grout, fill in between the flange and tile. That way, any future leak around the flange will show up on the bathroom floor instead of on the ceiling below. If you plan to use a glue-down transition as we did, this is the time to install it.

Here’s how we dealt with our transition: First, we removed the old metal strip that covered the carpet’s edge. Then we cut our transition strip to fit between the door jambs using a miter saw. Next, we added a tack strip to hold the carpet in place. Before we could glue the transition to the floor (Photo 14), we had to remove a thin strip of the old vinyl floor.

Grout is too brittle to handle the slight shifting movements that are normal in any room. Keep grout out of joints wherever the floor meets the tub, shower, vanity or walls (Photo 15).

Pack the joints with grout

Photo 16: Grout the joints

Work the grout back and forth across the floor, diagonal to the joints and holding the float at a 45-degree angle. Then scrape off the excess grout, holding the float almost upright.

The thin-set directions will tell you how soon you can grout the floor—usually 24 hours. Grouting isn’t complex. Just plop a couple of scoops of grout onto the floor in a corner, work the grout into joints (Photo 16) and scrape off the excess grout before moving to the next section. In addition:

• Mix the grout to a mashed-potatoes consistency. Adding extra liquid makes grout easier to work with but weakens it.
• Don’t just spread the grout over the joints; press hard to pack it into the joints. If you’re doing it right, your forearm will get a good workout.
• Whether you’re filling joints or scraping off excess grout, always push the float diagonally across the tiles.
• Scrape off the excess to leave tile as clean as you can. The less grout you leave on the tiles, the easier cleanup will be.
• When you’re done, cover the grout bucket with a plastic bag and set it in a cool place to slow the hardening process. During cleanup, you may find spots that need a little extra.

Grout cleanup

Photo 17: Clean the tiles

Wipe grout off the tile surface with a damp sponge. Wipe gently on the first pass so you don’t pull grout out of the joints. Rinse the sponge often.

Clean the surface of the tile when the grout is stiff enough to stay put in the joints but still soft enough to wipe off the tile surface. During hot, dry weather, grout can become difficult to wipe away in just 10 minutes, so get ready for cleanup before you even mix the grout. You’ll need two buckets of clean water, two sponges, a synthetic scouring pad and a dry rag.

As soon as you’re done grouting, go to the first section you grouted and wipe across a joint with a damp sponge. If the sponge pulls grout out of the joint, wait five minutes and try again. In cool, damp weather, the grout may stay too soft for an hour. When the grout is hard enough, gently wipe the tile with a damp sponge.

Rinse the sponge frequently as you wipe the entire floor (Photo 17). If you come across tough spots, scrub them with the scouring pad. Be careful where you put your feet and knees—don’t mar your perfect grout joints.

Immediately after the first pass, grab the second bucket of clean water and the fresh sponge and make a second, more thorough pass. Then, as the tile surface dries, wipe it with a dry terry cloth. The dry haze should buff off easily. If not, go for fresh water and sponge the floor again. If you can’t get rid of the haze, don’t panic. Products that remove haze are available wherever tile is sold.

Let the grout cure overnight before you caulk joints, set the toilet or reinstall baseboard. Grout sealer is a good precaution against staining: Some products can be applied 24 hours after grouting; others require a two- to three-week wait. If you have leftover tile or grout, keep them in case you have to make repairs in the future. Be sure to write down the brand, color and retailer of the tile.

How NOT to Save Money on a Tile Project

I’m a devout cheapskate, but when it comes to buying thin-set and grout, I grab the most expensive products on the shelf. More expensive thin-sets and grouts generally contain a higher proportion of the polymers that improve adhesion, durability and stain resistance.

In most situations, cheaper products would perform just fine. But if I can reduce the risks of loose tiles or cracked grout by spending an extra $30 on a typical bathroom project, I consider that a bargain.

Liquid additive is another smart investment. If the thin-set or grout label says you can mix it with water or an additive, use additive. These liquids (labeled “latex, ” “polymer” or “acrylic”) are meant to improve adhesion and stain resistance. But as a bonus, they produce a slick, creamy consistency. Thin-set combs out more smoothly, grout flows easily into joints, and both remain workable longer.

Also buy a mixer for your drill. Mixers come in various styles and sizes. Go easy on the trigger. If you run the drill at full speed, you can create millions of tiny air bubbles, which will weaken the mix.

Tile cutting tools

Tile cutter

A tile cutter is the fastest way to cut tile. Just push the handle forward and a small wheel scores the tile. Then push the handle down and the tile snaps in two. You can’t beat a tile cutter for convenience. It makes no mess and you can drag it around the room as you work. But a tile cutter has zero versatility. It makes straight cuts across the entire tile—no curves or corner cuts. Cutting 1 in. or less off a tile can be difficult or impossible. You can rent one at rental centers and some tile shops.

Wet saw

A wet saw cuts with a diamond blade while water cools the blade and eliminates dust. You can cut notches, trim off tiny slivers of tile, cut miters and even make curves. You’ll get clean cuts in any type of tile. But wet saws are messy. They spit water and raise a cloud of gritty mist. If you use one indoors, contain the mist with curtains of plastic film and cover nearby surfaces. You can buy a small wet saw like the one shown here or rent a professional model from a tile store or home or rental center. If you only have a few cuts that require a wet saw, call a tile store. Many make cuts for a small fee.

Angle grinder

An angle grinder equipped with a diamond blade can make straight cuts, curves and notches in any type of tile. Since all your cuts are freehand, this isn’t a precision tool, but you can grind away imperfections with the tip of the blade. Use a grinder only outside. Wear a dust mask and eye protection.

Nippers

Nippers are useful for rough curves and notches. They don’t cut tile, but bite out small chunks, leaving jagged edges.

Contour gauge

A contour gauge is a great tool for marking troublesome shapes on tile. Just press it against any odd-shaped surface (like the curved corner of a bathtub) and transfer the profile to tile.

Here are the tools that can cut your tile. Buy or rent the ones that make the most sense for your project.

In addition to the tools shown here, a carbide abrasive blade that fits in a jigsaw cuts slowly but leaves fairly clean cuts in softer types of ceramic tile and natural stone. A carbide abrasive hole saw cuts perfect holes for plumbing pipes and fixtures.

A rubbing stone is simply an abrasive block, similar to the wheel in a bench grinder. Use it to smooth sharp or slightly chipped cuts that will be exposed.

Additional Information

Required Tools for this Project

Have the necessary tools for this DIY project lined up before you start—you’ll save time and frustration.

You’ll also need these specialty tools for working with tile and backer board:
Scoring knife, Margin trowel, Tile cutter, 4-in. diamond blade, Drill mixer, Offset saw, Tile cutter, Nippers, Wet saw
You can also use an angle grinder for cutting tile.

How to Lay Tile: Install a Ceramic Tile Floor In the Bathroom

Read article : How to Lay Tile: Install a Ceramic Tile Floor In the Bathroom

Cover up an old floor

Whether you’re replacing an old shabby floor or installing a new one, you can’t beat ceramic or stone tile for durability and appearance. When laid properly, it’s virtually a forever floor that requires almost no care and maintenance. And you can select materials from a vast array of colors and textures. We’ll cover how to lay tile in a few steps.

What’s equally attractive is that you can lay a first-class tile floor yourself, often in one weekend, and save the $500 to $1,500 cost of hiring a pro.

The key to keeping the job simple is to cover the old vinyl or other flooring with a new thin underlayment that gives you a fresh, clean start. No messy tear-out and repair. In this article, we’ll demonstrate how to install a thin “backer board” over the old floor. Then we’ll cover tile-setting techniques, from layout and cutting to grout and cleanup.

This is a two-day project for most bathrooms, even if you don’t have any previous tile experience. If you’re comfortable using basic hand tools and have the patience to align tiles just right, you can handle this job. The entire cost of this project for a typical bath ranges from $300 to $600.

Estimating the Cost of a Tile Project

The tile itself will be your biggest cost, so start by measuring the square footage of the floor. Then add 10 percent for cutting waste. If you choose a more complex layout than the simple grid pattern we used, your waste will be greater. Most tile sells for $5 to $15 per square foot, but you can spend as little as $3 or more than $50. If you have to install backer board, add $2 per square foot to the cost of the tile. Other materials will cost about $90, regardless of bathroom size. The tile tools you’ll need (including a tile cutter) will total $60 to $80.

Assess your floor

The success of any tile job depends on a solid base, that is, a floor that flexes very little as you walk across it. If you have a concrete subfloor, this isn’t an issue. You can lay tile directly over the existing vinyl as long as it’s well adhered.

If possible, avoid tearing out vinyl flooring. Leaving it in place saves time, of course, but it also reduces asbestos hazard concerns. Asbestos was used in sheet vinyl and vinyl tile until the mid-1980s. By leaving the vinyl undisturbed, you won’t risk sending asbestos fibers into the air.

If you have a wood subfloor, there’s a good chance that you’ll have to install backer board over your vinyl to make the floor thicker and stiff enough for tile. The easiest way to see flooring thickness is to pull off a floor register. Otherwise look for plumbing passageways through the floor. As a last resort, drill through the floor with a 1-in. or larger spade bit (your new floor will cover the hole later). To prevent asbestos dust from becoming airborne, mist the bit with a spray bottle as you drill. In addition to floor thickness, you’ll need to determine joist spacing. If there’s an unfinished basement or crawlspace below the floor, simply measure the spacing. If there’s a ceiling, probe for joists with a drill bit.

If the joists are spaced 16 in. apart, the layers of structural flooring beneath the vinyl should add up to at least 1-1/8 in. With joists every 24 in., you need 1-1/2 in. If your floor is too thin for tile, add a thicker layer of tile backer board. Our floor required 1/4-in.-thick backer. Yours might need 1/2-in. backer to reach the minimum thickness. If your floor is already thick enough, you can simply prep the vinyl floor (Photos 1 – 4) and skip the backer installation (Photos 5 – 8). Then tile directly over the vinyl, following the same steps we used over backer board.

Regardless of the type of subfloor, there are two situations where you can’t leave vinyl in place: First, if large areas of the vinyl are loose, don’t set tile or backer over it. Small loose spots are acceptable and easy to deal with (Photo 4).

Second, “cushioned” sheet vinyl must be removed before you can set tile. Cushioned vinyl has a foam backing that makes it noticeably thicker and softer than standard vinyl flooring. It’s too spongy to support tile or backer board. Before removing it, call your local health department for instructions on how to check for asbestos and proper procedures if asbestos is present.

Gather Advice While You Shop

Home centers carry everything you need for this project, but begin shopping at a tile store, where you’re more likely to get expert advice. Make a quick sketch of your floor plan and jot down all the dimensions. Also take a photo of the floor at the doorway. This will help the tile store staff recommend a “transition” to neatly join the tile to the hallway flooring. Transitions come in different styles to suit any situation.

When you choose the tile itself, ask if it requires any special installation steps. Some tile, for example, should be coated with grout release before grouting. Also ask about cutting techniques for the tile. You’ll use sanded grout for the floor. Ask if sanded caulk is available in a color that matches your grout for the floor/tub and floor/wall tile joints.

Prepare the room

First, get the toilet out of your way. Stuff a rag in the hole to block sewer gases. If your home only has one toilet, you can leave it in place until you install the backer board. Keep a supply of wax rings on hand if you plan to reinstall the toilet at the end of each day.

If you expect to keep your vanity for many years to come, leave it in place and tile around it. But if you think you might replace it, remove it now. When the job’s done, you can reinstall the old vanity or put in a new one. Having the vanity out of the way gives you more workspace, and you won’t have to cut backer board and tiles to fit around it. This also eliminates the floor repair problem if you install a smaller vanity or pedestal sink in the future.

Pull off the baseboard or plan to add base shoe molding. This leads to a neater-looking job because the edges of the tile will be covered later—jagged cuts and slight measuring mistakes are hidden. If your baseboard has base shoe molding, remove only the base shoe. Backer board and tile will raise your floor 3/4 in. or more. So you’ll have to remove and undercut the door. To mark the door for cutting, stack backer board, tile and two layers of cardboard on the floor (see Photo 3). Mark the door 1/2 in. above the stack, remove the door and cut off the bottom.

Scrub, screw and patch the floor

Photo 1: Scrub the floor with stripper

Remove the baseboard and toilet. Using an abrasive pad, scrub the floor hard with water mixed with vinyl floor stripper.

Photo 2: Drive screws into the floor joists

Mark the floor joists with chalk lines and drive 2-1/2-in. screws every 8 in. Don’t leave any screw heads protruding.

Photo 3: Cut the door trim to accommodate tile

Undercut door trim using a jamb saw or handsaw. A piece of backer board, tile and two layers of cardboard raise the saw to the correct height above the floor.

Photo 4: Fill low spots with thin-set

Cut out any loose sections of vinyl with a utility knife. Fill the void with thin-set using the flat edge of a notched trowel.

Scrub the floor with a vinyl floor stripper following the manufacturer’s instructions. The stripper will dissolve wax and other residue. Scrub hard with an abrasive scouring pad (Photo 1). The tiny scratches left by scrubbing help the thin-set bond better.

Next, drive screws through the floor into the joists (Photo 2). This ensures that the subfloor and underlayment are securely fastened. If there’s an unfinished basement below the floor, locating the joists is easy: Go to the basement and drill a couple of 1/4-in. holes up through the floor next to a joist. If you can’t locate the joists from below, pick a spot near one wall and drill a hole. If the bit breaks through into hollow space, move over 1 in. and drill another hole. Keep going until you hit a joist. Then go to the opposite wall and find the other end of the joist. Measure at intervals of 16 or 24 in. from the first joist to locate the others.

While you’re driving screws, look for any spots where the vinyl has loosened from the floor. Cut out loose spots and fill them (Photo 4). If there are any copper pipes that pass through the floor, wrap them with duct tape at floor level. Cement-based thin-set and grout can corrode copper.

Install backer board

Photo 5: Install backer board over the floor

Cover the floor with backer board. Cut inside corners, circles and curves with a drywall saw. Space pieces 1/8 in. apart and hold each one in place with two temporary screws.

Drywall saw

Use a drywall saw to cut corners, circles and curves in backer board.

Photo 6: Score and snap the backer board

Make straight cuts with a scoring knife. Make three or four scoring passes, then snap the backer over a 2×4. When all the pieces have been laid out, label them and set them aside.

Scoring knife

Use a scoring knife to score the backer board.

Photo 7: Trowel on the thin-set

Comb out a bed of thin-set just large enough for each piece of backer board using a 1/4-in. notched trowel held at a 45-degree angle. Screw the backer down before spreading thin-set for the next piece.

Notched trowel

Use a 1/4-in. notched trowel to spread the thin-set over the floor.

Photo 8: Cover the joints

Press adhesive-backed mesh tape over the joints and skim over the tape with thin-set. When the thin-set is firm but not fully hardened, scrape away any ridges with a putty knife.

The backer board is fastened with a combination of screws and thin-set adhesive. Cut and lay out all the pieces before you mix the thin-set (Photos 5 and 6). You can run the sheets in any direction, but be sure to stagger the joints so you never have four corners meeting at one point. Leave a 1/8-in. space between the sheets and along the vanity, tub or shower. The gap along walls must be at least 1/8 in. wide, but a wider gap (about 1/2 in.) makes the panels easier to set in place.

After cutting and fitting, label the location of each one and set them all aside. Vacuum the floor and have your drill and screws ready to go before you mix the thin-set. Read the thin-set’s label. Spread the thin-set with a 1/4-in. notched trowel. Comb in one direction so air can escape when you embed the backer (Photo 7). Drive screws every 6 in. around the perimeter of each piece and every 8 in. “in the field” (across the face of the panel). If the leftover thin-set is still workable, you can immediately embed mesh tape over the joints (Photo 8).

If the thin-set has become too stiff or chunky, mix a new batch. Use “alkali-resistant” tape that’s meant for backer board. While the tape coat of thin-set hardens, run a putty knife over all the screw heads to scrape off the “mushroom” bulges around screws. Drive in any protruding screw heads you come across.

CAUTION!

Cement products like thin-set and grout draw moisture from skin and can even cause burns that require medical attention. While most pros work bare-handed, wear gloves if you have any special sensitivity. Also wear eye protection while mixing thin-set and grout.

Figure A: Ceramic Tile Over Vinyl

Everything you need for this project is available at home centers. Most of what you need is also available at tile stores.

Careful layout pays off

Photo 9: Test your layout to avoid small pieces along the walls

Dry-lay tile to determine the best layout. Start with centered rows, leaving equal spaces at walls. Then reposition rows until you find the optimal layout.

Photo 10: Attach guide boards to guide the layout

Screw guide boards to the floor following your chosen layout. Position the guides so you can lay all the field tiles without moving the guides. Make sure the guides are at right angles by measuring out a 3-4-5 triangle.

Too often, tile novices simply start setting tile in a corner and continue along two walls until the floor is covered. Sometimes they get lucky and the floor looks good. But more often this method leads to trouble:

They end up with awkward-looking, thin slivers of tile along a prominent wall or at the doorway. And the tile looks even worse when walls are badly out of square or crooked—a straight grout line running too close to a wall emphasizes the wall’s imperfections.

Whether you’re laying a simple grid pattern like we show here, or a diagonal pattern with a border, the best tile layout usually calls for centering full tiles between walls so the partial tiles along the edges will end up all the same size. Don’t rely on your tape measure and mental arithmetic. Rip open a carton of tile, grab a handful of spacers and experiment with your layout on the floor.

To begin, center rows of tile between walls so you have equal spaces along walls that face each other (Photo 9). Set the two rows parallel to the two most prominent walls. Then make adjustments, trying to achieve these three goals:

• Use full tiles at doorways and along the bathtub or shower. These are usually the only places where the edges of the floor aren’t covered by baseboard. If you use full tiles in these exposed spots, you don’t have to worry about making smooth, perfect cuts.
• Avoid narrow tiles along walls. Ideally, you’ll end up with tiles cut to half size or larger. Avoid cutting tile to widths less than 2 in.
• Minimize cutting and try to avoid difficult cuts. For example: Cutting tile to an L-shape to fit around an outside corner is especially difficult when one arm of the “L” is less than 2 in. wide. The arm tends to break off as you cut.

Chances are, your layout won’t meet all these goals. Because the shower stall was the focal point in our bathroom, we made it our No. 1 layout priority. We chose to use full tiles in front of the shower. That left us with 3-in.-wide tiles along the opposite wall, which was less prominent. We also chose to center the tile rows on the shower; that meant we had to use cut tiles at the doorway.

Once you determine a layout, establish lines to guide your tile positioning. The usual method is to snap chalk lines on the floor. But chalk lines are hard to see after you’ve spread thin-set, and one row of tile may slip as you set the next row. Here’s a more reliable guide: Choose straight boards a foot shorter than the length and width of the room. Tape one edge of each board so thin-set won’t stick to them.

Then screw the boards to the floor at a right angle to form a guide that eliminates guesswork and shifting (Photo 10).

Video: Create Your Own Floor Tile Layout

Planning the layout for a tile project is usually the hardest and most time- consuming step. Watch this video to learn how a pro does it. You’ll see how to snap chalk lines and make sure they are perfectly square. Plus, you’ll learn how to avoid unsightly narrow, difficult-to-cut tiles along a wall. Don’t start a tile project until you’ve watch this video!

Set the tile (finally!)

Photo 11: Set the full tiles

Comb out a few square feet of thin-set and set tile against the guides. Continue until all the full tiles are in place. Tip: Watch for squeeze-out between tiles and rake it out with tile spacers.

Spacers detail

Keep the gaps between tiles even by using spacers

Photo 12: Spread thin-set and set the perimeter tiles.

Cut and set the perimeter tiles after the thin-set beneath the full tiles has hardened. In spaces too narrow for your trowel, comb thin-set onto the backs of tiles.

It’s usually easiest—and most efficient—to set tile in two phases: First set all the full “field” tiles (Photo 11). Then, when the thin-set has hardened for several hours, cut all the perimeter tiles and set them (Photo 12). Here are some tips for both phases of the job:

• The trowel you use for setting tile may be different from the one you used to embed the backer. The thin-set label tells you which notch size to use relative to tile size.
• Dampen the backer with a sponge just before applying thin-set. This keeps the thin-set from drying out too quickly.
• Comb the thin-set in one direction so air pockets won’t be trapped under tile.
• Open three or four cartons and mix the tiles as you set them. Pattern and color vary slightly from one carton to the next.
• Don’t just set each tile into place; press down on the tile and wiggle it to embed it firmly in the thin-set.
• Watch for “tipped” corners. When you press a tile in place, it’s easy to tilt it slightly so that one corner stands higher or lower than neighboring tiles.
• When you complete a section of tile, inspect it before moving on. Make sure the tiles line up correctly and spacers are in place. Wipe any thin-set off the face of tiles with a damp sponge.
• When the thin-set becomes chunky or too stiff, throw it away and mix more. Never try to extend the life of thin-set or grout by adding water.
• Cut perimeter tile so that caulked joints (at tub) are the same width as grouted joints.

Prepare the floor for grout

Photo 13: Install an extension ring over the toilet flange

Remove the old screws from the toilet flange and apply a heavy bead of silicone caulk. Fasten the extension ring over the old flange with stainless steel or brass screws.

Photo 14: Install the transition strip

Glue the transition into place with construction adhesive. If carpet meets the transition, you may have to add a new tack strip.

Photo 15: Stuff backer rod along the wall

Push backer rod into joints that will be caulked later. The foam rod keeps grout out of joints. After grouting, pull out the rod and caulk the joints.

When all the tiles are in place and the thin-set has hardened, remove all the spacers. Next, raise the toilet flange by adding an extension ring or two (Photo 13). The extended flange should be flush with or higher than the surrounding tile.

When you grout, fill in between the flange and tile. That way, any future leak around the flange will show up on the bathroom floor instead of on the ceiling below. If you plan to use a glue-down transition as we did, this is the time to install it.

Here’s how we dealt with our transition: First, we removed the old metal strip that covered the carpet’s edge. Then we cut our transition strip to fit between the door jambs using a miter saw. Next, we added a tack strip to hold the carpet in place. Before we could glue the transition to the floor (Photo 14), we had to remove a thin strip of the old vinyl floor.

Grout is too brittle to handle the slight shifting movements that are normal in any room. Keep grout out of joints wherever the floor meets the tub, shower, vanity or walls (Photo 15).

Pack the joints with grout

Photo 16: Grout the joints

Work the grout back and forth across the floor, diagonal to the joints and holding the float at a 45-degree angle. Then scrape off the excess grout, holding the float almost upright.

The thin-set directions will tell you how soon you can grout the floor—usually 24 hours. Grouting isn’t complex. Just plop a couple of scoops of grout onto the floor in a corner, work the grout into joints (Photo 16) and scrape off the excess grout before moving to the next section. In addition:

• Mix the grout to a mashed-potatoes consistency. Adding extra liquid makes grout easier to work with but weakens it.
• Don’t just spread the grout over the joints; press hard to pack it into the joints. If you’re doing it right, your forearm will get a good workout.
• Whether you’re filling joints or scraping off excess grout, always push the float diagonally across the tiles.
• Scrape off the excess to leave tile as clean as you can. The less grout you leave on the tiles, the easier cleanup will be.
• When you’re done, cover the grout bucket with a plastic bag and set it in a cool place to slow the hardening process. During cleanup, you may find spots that need a little extra.

Grout cleanup

Photo 17: Clean the tiles

Wipe grout off the tile surface with a damp sponge. Wipe gently on the first pass so you don’t pull grout out of the joints. Rinse the sponge often.

Clean the surface of the tile when the grout is stiff enough to stay put in the joints but still soft enough to wipe off the tile surface. During hot, dry weather, grout can become difficult to wipe away in just 10 minutes, so get ready for cleanup before you even mix the grout. You’ll need two buckets of clean water, two sponges, a synthetic scouring pad and a dry rag.

As soon as you’re done grouting, go to the first section you grouted and wipe across a joint with a damp sponge. If the sponge pulls grout out of the joint, wait five minutes and try again. In cool, damp weather, the grout may stay too soft for an hour. When the grout is hard enough, gently wipe the tile with a damp sponge.

Rinse the sponge frequently as you wipe the entire floor (Photo 17). If you come across tough spots, scrub them with the scouring pad. Be careful where you put your feet and knees—don’t mar your perfect grout joints.

Immediately after the first pass, grab the second bucket of clean water and the fresh sponge and make a second, more thorough pass. Then, as the tile surface dries, wipe it with a dry terry cloth. The dry haze should buff off easily. If not, go for fresh water and sponge the floor again. If you can’t get rid of the haze, don’t panic. Products that remove haze are available wherever tile is sold.

Let the grout cure overnight before you caulk joints, set the toilet or reinstall baseboard. Grout sealer is a good precaution against staining: Some products can be applied 24 hours after grouting; others require a two- to three-week wait. If you have leftover tile or grout, keep them in case you have to make repairs in the future. Be sure to write down the brand, color and retailer of the tile.

How NOT to Save Money on a Tile Project

I’m a devout cheapskate, but when it comes to buying thin-set and grout, I grab the most expensive products on the shelf. More expensive thin-sets and grouts generally contain a higher proportion of the polymers that improve adhesion, durability and stain resistance.

In most situations, cheaper products would perform just fine. But if I can reduce the risks of loose tiles or cracked grout by spending an extra $30 on a typical bathroom project, I consider that a bargain.

Liquid additive is another smart investment. If the thin-set or grout label says you can mix it with water or an additive, use additive. These liquids (labeled “latex, ” “polymer” or “acrylic”) are meant to improve adhesion and stain resistance. But as a bonus, they produce a slick, creamy consistency. Thin-set combs out more smoothly, grout flows easily into joints, and both remain workable longer.

Also buy a mixer for your drill. Mixers come in various styles and sizes. Go easy on the trigger. If you run the drill at full speed, you can create millions of tiny air bubbles, which will weaken the mix.

Tile cutting tools

Tile cutter

A tile cutter is the fastest way to cut tile. Just push the handle forward and a small wheel scores the tile. Then push the handle down and the tile snaps in two. You can’t beat a tile cutter for convenience. It makes no mess and you can drag it around the room as you work. But a tile cutter has zero versatility. It makes straight cuts across the entire tile—no curves or corner cuts. Cutting 1 in. or less off a tile can be difficult or impossible. You can rent one at rental centers and some tile shops.

Wet saw

A wet saw cuts with a diamond blade while water cools the blade and eliminates dust. You can cut notches, trim off tiny slivers of tile, cut miters and even make curves. You’ll get clean cuts in any type of tile. But wet saws are messy. They spit water and raise a cloud of gritty mist. If you use one indoors, contain the mist with curtains of plastic film and cover nearby surfaces. You can buy a small wet saw like the one shown here or rent a professional model from a tile store or home or rental center. If you only have a few cuts that require a wet saw, call a tile store. Many make cuts for a small fee.

Angle grinder

An angle grinder equipped with a diamond blade can make straight cuts, curves and notches in any type of tile. Since all your cuts are freehand, this isn’t a precision tool, but you can grind away imperfections with the tip of the blade. Use a grinder only outside. Wear a dust mask and eye protection.

Nippers

Nippers are useful for rough curves and notches. They don’t cut tile, but bite out small chunks, leaving jagged edges.

Contour gauge

A contour gauge is a great tool for marking troublesome shapes on tile. Just press it against any odd-shaped surface (like the curved corner of a bathtub) and transfer the profile to tile.

Here are the tools that can cut your tile. Buy or rent the ones that make the most sense for your project.

In addition to the tools shown here, a carbide abrasive blade that fits in a jigsaw cuts slowly but leaves fairly clean cuts in softer types of ceramic tile and natural stone. A carbide abrasive hole saw cuts perfect holes for plumbing pipes and fixtures.

A rubbing stone is simply an abrasive block, similar to the wheel in a bench grinder. Use it to smooth sharp or slightly chipped cuts that will be exposed.

Additional Information

Required Tools for this Project

Have the necessary tools for this DIY project lined up before you start—you’ll save time and frustration.

You’ll also need these specialty tools for working with tile and backer board:
Scoring knife, Margin trowel, Tile cutter, 4-in. diamond blade, Drill mixer, Offset saw, Tile cutter, Nippers, Wet saw
You can also use an angle grinder for cutting tile.