natural wood tones throughout this lengthy bathroom. Dual vanity with marble backsplash over floating cabinetry places mirrors between lengths of window, while all glass shower takes up end of the room." alt="Sparkling mixture of bright marble and natural wood tones throughout this lengthy bathroom. Dual vanity with marble backsplash over floating cabinetry places mirrors between lengths of window, while all glass shower takes up end of the room." width="1024" height="681" src="src" />
Read article : The Bathroom as a Health and Beauty Spa
Italians are very health conscious. They also attach great importance to their appearance and go to great efforts to improve on what nature has given them.
Italian bathroom. Ph. pixabay CC
In the early post-war period, neither financial nor technical resources were sufficient to allow home improvement to extend to the bathroom areas. The small amounts of "extra" wealth that were available were devoted to the areas of the home that were most in view to the outside world, in particular the living room and the dining room. Also a relatively high proportion of the family income was devoted to clothing as one's personal appearance outside of the home was of utmost importance to establish one's position in society.
Needless to say, the situation is now completely changed. The growth of Italian wealth, the society's pursuit of beauty and art, the availability of advanced technical solutions and infrastructure, and the individuality of Italians is nowhere better illustrated than in the extraordinary lengths to which home decorators go in designing and equipping bathrooms. Bathrooms that were long neglected are now seen as very important parts of the home devoted to the health and well-being of the occupants. And in achieving health and well-being, style is of utmost importance to Italians.
[embedded content] Modern Bathroom Designs in 2010.
The quest for style covers all aspects of bathroom design, from the wall and floor tiles, to the doors and knobs, to the sanitary appliances and the lighting. The world of ceramic tiles is vast, and information about the use of this material for decorating bathrooms and kitchens will be discussed under a separate section. In the current section, information will be provided only regarding the latest trends in sanitary appliances designed to make Italian bathrooms similar to health and beauty spas.
Until a few years ago, the utmost in bathroom wellbeing was seen to be the installation of double washbasins and Jacuzzi-type bathtubs. Nowadays, homes normally have one bathroom with a tub, but the other bathrooms are generally equipped with showers. As regards tubs, the latest design has been devoted to developing solutions that are "anatomic", while the showers are designed to attain the ultimate in personal hygiene and wellbeing. Thus, for example, the company Titan promotes a full immersion tub designed to ensure maximum comfort.
"Titan, faithful to its promise of fitting out completely the bathroom entirely with the Genesi design project, presents at Cersaie 2002 the evolution of the Genesi line. A project initially started with the creation of a multi-wellbeing whirlpool bathtub designed by Takahide Sano, expands the line with a series of accessories and products devised to follow the philosophy of a refined layout and characterised by exclusive aesthetic harmony. The same care taken over the bath tub has been lavished on the attention to detail, accessories and complements of the line designed by Takahide Sano.
The bath tub is enhanced by a set of taps on the side of the tub complete with mechanical mixer, flow nozzle and extractable shower head with automatic flexible hose rewinding, made in steel and with accessories inspired by Japanese minimalism such as the head rest and the folding seat. These are both made in curved natural beech wood which, with their refined and functional design, allow anyone to take advantage of the benefits afforded by the whirlpool bathtub. The new Genesi shower tray, coordinated with the Ramses R-S5 shower enclosure thanks to its clean cut lines and the high quality finishes highlighted by the lightness of the design, maintains the same coating characteristics as those of the tub.
Bleached oak or natural mahogany are the natural materials for the front inspection panels and for the non-slip centre footboard, while white or "night" satinised methacrylate is used for the shower base. The presence of the new bidet and sink taps equipped with a single-control mechanical mixer and a flow nozzle with jet diffuser and waste pipe control lever, made entirely in steel, are further proof of the will of Titan to complete the Genesi project, creating a bathroom in which all the elements echo the stylistic elegance of the collection. New products for a collection in continual evolution, where the idea of beauty is combined with that of functionality to create a new contemporary bathroom concept dedicated to well being. Titan continues along its course eliciting increasingly new sensations, for high quality products, studied right down to the smallest details that guarantee multi- wellbeing in one's own home.
They also sell a shower box that can be operated as a Turkish bath.
Moreover, the company guarantees that bathroom design can be personalized with for example stones, marble, mosaic or wood to create a unique atmosphere. The company Cesana promotes its shower boxes as possibly the best, while PDP has created walk in showers with right-hand and left-hand entrances of the series Elite.
"A wellspring continuously gushing forth new ideas. For thirty years, Cesana has always dedicated itself to finding new, up to date solutions for a bathroom area that has become increasingly important. This dedication to research and development has generated over 10,000 variations on the 'shower enclosure' theme so far. This has made the ltalian Company an established point of reference in the sector both in ltaly and abroad, especially in Europe. Because, beyond its capacity for innovation, Cesana's reliability stems from its unswerving attention to quality and workmanship, combining advanced technology and traditional craftsmanship. First-class materials The glass used for Cesana's shower enclosures is tempered using the most advanced equipment.
[embedded content] Contemporary bathroom design.
Ultra-resistant to shocks and pressure, it satisfies both Uni and international norms, providing the security that is indispensable in the bathroom area. The aluminum used for the support frames is also of the best quality, carefully finished in epoxy powders, corrosion tested for 3,000 hours in saline mist. Design elegance Cesana's heart and soul is, without a doubt, its Research & Development Division, based on Cesana values: elegance of shape, practical functioning and innovation. Talking about innovation, the revolutionary System Logic, protected by international patents, is a Cesana product.
System Logic sets conventional expectations on end, with the water jetting upwards from the pavement and the shower system column containing the temperature and intensity controls located outside the enclosure. An oasis of well-being and functionality Welcoming both because of its attractive design and its practical, comfortable organization: Cesana's shower enclosures are in complete agreement with today's tendency to view this area as an oasis of intimate well-being, a private island where one can recover one's equilibrium."
Personalized solutions are the hallmark even of the large popular manufacturer of sanitary appliances such as Ideal Standard (see image below ) (www.idealstandard.it).
Aqualia
Suffice it to say that the company's sales line is "A thousand bathrooms, and in addition yours", and here too attention is given to design and practicality as in the case of the Cantica line where the appliances are free of floor stands that only collect dust and are difficult to keep clean. Innovative design is also characteristic of the line of ceramic sanitary appliances called "Qube e Rond" of the company Axa (www.axaonline.it).
In recognition of the increasing age of the Italian population (the country has one of the lowest birth rates in the world), attention is being given to the health needs and wellbeing of the older generations also in the design of bathroom equipment. Thus, for example, the company Busco (www.busco.it) has created the Auxilia easy access tub, for therapeutic showers, hydro-massage and hydrotherapy of the possibly less agile generations.
An important feature of Italian decoration of bathrooms is the use of ceramic floor and wall tiling. Resistant to years of use, easy to care for and to clean, available in a wide range of colors and designs, ceramic tile is the preferred decorating material used for bathrooms in Italy. Marble is also used, but the costs are somewhat higher. There are enormous numbers of producers of ceramic tiles for bathrooms. These extend from the designer tiles by such well-known names as Laura Biagiotti, Valentino, and Versace to little known small manufacturers providing quality materials. The tiles are available in all possible colors and sizes. It is even possible to decorate a bathroom with tiles that look like mosaics.
Whether you’re replacing an old shabby floor or installing a new one, you can’t beat ceramic or stone tile for durability and appearance. When laid properly, it’s virtually a forever floor that requires almost no care and maintenance. And you can select materials from a vast array of colors and textures. We’ll cover how to lay tile in a few steps.
What’s equally attractive is that you can lay a first-class tile floor yourself, often in one weekend, and save the $500 to $1,500 cost of hiring a pro.
The key to keeping the job simple is to cover the old vinyl or other flooring with a new thin underlayment that gives you a fresh, clean start. No messy tear-out and repair. In this article, we’ll demonstrate how to install a thin “backer board” over the old floor. Then we’ll cover tile-setting techniques, from layout and cutting to grout and cleanup.
This is a two-day project for most bathrooms, even if you don’t have any previous tile experience. If you’re comfortable using basic hand tools and have the patience to align tiles just right, you can handle this job. The entire cost of this project for a typical bath ranges from $300 to $600.
The tile itself will be your biggest cost, so start by measuring the square footage of the floor. Then add 10 percent for cutting waste. If you choose a more complex layout than the simple grid pattern we used, your waste will be greater. Most tile sells for $5 to $15 per square foot, but you can spend as little as $3 or more than $50. If you have to install backer board, add $2 per square foot to the cost of the tile. Other materials will cost about $90, regardless of bathroom size. The tile tools you’ll need (including a tile cutter) will total $60 to $80.
The success of any tile job depends on a solid base, that is, a floor that flexes very little as you walk across it. If you have a concrete subfloor, this isn’t an issue. You can lay tile directly over the existing vinyl as long as it’s well adhered.
If possible, avoid tearing out vinyl flooring. Leaving it in place saves time, of course, but it also reduces asbestos hazard concerns. Asbestos was used in sheet vinyl and vinyl tile until the mid-1980s. By leaving the vinyl undisturbed, you won’t risk sending asbestos fibers into the air.
If you have a wood subfloor, there’s a good chance that you’ll have to install backer board over your vinyl to make the floor thicker and stiff enough for tile. The easiest way to see flooring thickness is to pull off a floor register. Otherwise look for plumbing passageways through the floor. As a last resort, drill through the floor with a 1-in. or larger spade bit (your new floor will cover the hole later). To prevent asbestos dust from becoming airborne, mist the bit with a spray bottle as you drill. In addition to floor thickness, you’ll need to determine joist spacing. If there’s an unfinished basement or crawlspace below the floor, simply measure the spacing. If there’s a ceiling, probe for joists with a drill bit.
If the joists are spaced 16 in. apart, the layers of structural flooring beneath the vinyl should add up to at least 1-1/8 in. With joists every 24 in., you need 1-1/2 in. If your floor is too thin for tile, add a thicker layer of tile backer board. Our floor required 1/4-in.-thick backer. Yours might need 1/2-in. backer to reach the minimum thickness. If your floor is already thick enough, you can simply prep the vinyl floor (Photos 1 – 4) and skip the backer installation (Photos 5 – 8). Then tile directly over the vinyl, following the same steps we used over backer board.
Regardless of the type of subfloor, there are two situations where you can’t leave vinyl in place: First, if large areas of the vinyl are loose, don’t set tile or backer over it. Small loose spots are acceptable and easy to deal with (Photo 4).
Second, “cushioned” sheet vinyl must be removed before you can set tile. Cushioned vinyl has a foam backing that makes it noticeably thicker and softer than standard vinyl flooring. It’s too spongy to support tile or backer board. Before removing it, call your local health department for instructions on how to check for asbestos and proper procedures if asbestos is present.
Home centers carry everything you need for this project, but begin shopping at a tile store, where you’re more likely to get expert advice. Make a quick sketch of your floor plan and jot down all the dimensions. Also take a photo of the floor at the doorway. This will help the tile store staff recommend a “transition” to neatly join the tile to the hallway flooring. Transitions come in different styles to suit any situation.
When you choose the tile itself, ask if it requires any special installation steps. Some tile, for example, should be coated with grout release before grouting. Also ask about cutting techniques for the tile. You’ll use sanded grout for the floor. Ask if sanded caulk is available in a color that matches your grout for the floor/tub and floor/wall tile joints.
First, get the toilet out of your way. Stuff a rag in the hole to block sewer gases. If your home only has one toilet, you can leave it in place until you install the backer board. Keep a supply of wax rings on hand if you plan to reinstall the toilet at the end of each day.
If you expect to keep your vanity for many years to come, leave it in place and tile around it. But if you think you might replace it, remove it now. When the job’s done, you can reinstall the old vanity or put in a new one. Having the vanity out of the way gives you more workspace, and you won’t have to cut backer board and tiles to fit around it. This also eliminates the floor repair problem if you install a smaller vanity or pedestal sink in the future.
Pull off the baseboard or plan to add base shoe molding. This leads to a neater-looking job because the edges of the tile will be covered later—jagged cuts and slight measuring mistakes are hidden. If your baseboard has base shoe molding, remove only the base shoe. Backer board and tile will raise your floor 3/4 in. or more. So you’ll have to remove and undercut the door. To mark the door for cutting, stack backer board, tile and two layers of cardboard on the floor (see Photo 3). Mark the door 1/2 in. above the stack, remove the door and cut off the bottom.
Undercut door trim using a jamb saw or handsaw. A piece of backer board, tile and two layers of cardboard raise the saw to the correct height above the floor.
Cut out any loose sections of vinyl with a utility knife. Fill the void with thin-set using the flat edge of a notched trowel.
Scrub the floor with a vinyl floor stripper following the manufacturer’s instructions. The stripper will dissolve wax and other residue. Scrub hard with an abrasive scouring pad (Photo 1). The tiny scratches left by scrubbing help the thin-set bond better.
Next, drive screws through the floor into the joists (Photo 2). This ensures that the subfloor and underlayment are securely fastened. If there’s an unfinished basement below the floor, locating the joists is easy: Go to the basement and drill a couple of 1/4-in. holes up through the floor next to a joist. If you can’t locate the joists from below, pick a spot near one wall and drill a hole. If the bit breaks through into hollow space, move over 1 in. and drill another hole. Keep going until you hit a joist. Then go to the opposite wall and find the other end of the joist. Measure at intervals of 16 or 24 in. from the first joist to locate the others.
While you’re driving screws, look for any spots where the vinyl has loosened from the floor. Cut out loose spots and fill them (Photo 4). If there are any copper pipes that pass through the floor, wrap them with duct tape at floor level. Cement-based thin-set and grout can corrode copper.
Cover the floor with backer board. Cut inside corners, circles and curves with a drywall saw. Space pieces 1/8 in. apart and hold each one in place with two temporary screws.
Make straight cuts with a scoring knife. Make three or four scoring passes, then snap the backer over a 2×4. When all the pieces have been laid out, label them and set them aside.
Comb out a bed of thin-set just large enough for each piece of backer board using a 1/4-in. notched trowel held at a 45-degree angle. Screw the backer down before spreading thin-set for the next piece.
Press adhesive-backed mesh tape over the joints and skim over the tape with thin-set. When the thin-set is firm but not fully hardened, scrape away any ridges with a putty knife.
The backer board is fastened with a combination of screws and thin-set adhesive. Cut and lay out all the pieces before you mix the thin-set (Photos 5 and 6). You can run the sheets in any direction, but be sure to stagger the joints so you never have four corners meeting at one point. Leave a 1/8-in. space between the sheets and along the vanity, tub or shower. The gap along walls must be at least 1/8 in. wide, but a wider gap (about 1/2 in.) makes the panels easier to set in place.
After cutting and fitting, label the location of each one and set them all aside. Vacuum the floor and have your drill and screws ready to go before you mix the thin-set. Read the thin-set’s label. Spread the thin-set with a 1/4-in. notched trowel. Comb in one direction so air can escape when you embed the backer (Photo 7). Drive screws every 6 in. around the perimeter of each piece and every 8 in. “in the field” (across the face of the panel). If the leftover thin-set is still workable, you can immediately embed mesh tape over the joints (Photo 8).
If the thin-set has become too stiff or chunky, mix a new batch. Use “alkali-resistant” tape that’s meant for backer board. While the tape coat of thin-set hardens, run a putty knife over all the screw heads to scrape off the “mushroom” bulges around screws. Drive in any protruding screw heads you come across.
Cement products like thin-set and grout draw moisture from skin and can even cause burns that require medical attention. While most pros work bare-handed, wear gloves if you have any special sensitivity. Also wear eye protection while mixing thin-set and grout.
Dry-lay tile to determine the best layout. Start with centered rows, leaving equal spaces at walls. Then reposition rows until you find the optimal layout.
Screw guide boards to the floor following your chosen layout. Position the guides so you can lay all the field tiles without moving the guides. Make sure the guides are at right angles by measuring out a 3-4-5 triangle.
Too often, tile novices simply start setting tile in a corner and continue along two walls until the floor is covered. Sometimes they get lucky and the floor looks good. But more often this method leads to trouble:
They end up with awkward-looking, thin slivers of tile along a prominent wall or at the doorway. And the tile looks even worse when walls are badly out of square or crooked—a straight grout line running too close to a wall emphasizes the wall’s imperfections.
Whether you’re laying a simple grid pattern like we show here, or a diagonal pattern with a border, the best tile layout usually calls for centering full tiles between walls so the partial tiles along the edges will end up all the same size. Don’t rely on your tape measure and mental arithmetic. Rip open a carton of tile, grab a handful of spacers and experiment with your layout on the floor.
To begin, center rows of tile between walls so you have equal spaces along walls that face each other (Photo 9). Set the two rows parallel to the two most prominent walls. Then make adjustments, trying to achieve these three goals:
Use full tiles at doorways and along the bathtub or shower. These are usually the only places where the edges of the floor aren’t covered by baseboard. If you use full tiles in these exposed spots, you don’t have to worry about making smooth, perfect cuts.
Avoid narrow tiles along walls. Ideally, you’ll end up with tiles cut to half size or larger. Avoid cutting tile to widths less than 2 in.
Minimize cutting and try to avoid difficult cuts. For example: Cutting tile to an L-shape to fit around an outside corner is especially difficult when one arm of the “L” is less than 2 in. wide. The arm tends to break off as you cut.
Chances are, your layout won’t meet all these goals. Because the shower stall was the focal point in our bathroom, we made it our No. 1 layout priority. We chose to use full tiles in front of the shower. That left us with 3-in.-wide tiles along the opposite wall, which was less prominent. We also chose to center the tile rows on the shower; that meant we had to use cut tiles at the doorway.
Once you determine a layout, establish lines to guide your tile positioning. The usual method is to snap chalk lines on the floor. But chalk lines are hard to see after you’ve spread thin-set, and one row of tile may slip as you set the next row. Here’s a more reliable guide: Choose straight boards a foot shorter than the length and width of the room. Tape one edge of each board so thin-set won’t stick to them.
Then screw the boards to the floor at a right angle to form a guide that eliminates guesswork and shifting (Photo 10).
Planning the layout for a tile project is usually the hardest and most time- consuming step. Watch this video to learn how a pro does it. You’ll see how to snap chalk lines and make sure they are perfectly square. Plus, you’ll learn how to avoid unsightly narrow, difficult-to-cut tiles along a wall. Don’t start a tile project until you’ve watch this video!
Comb out a few square feet of thin-set and set tile against the guides. Continue until all the full tiles are in place. Tip: Watch for squeeze-out between tiles and rake it out with tile spacers.
Cut and set the perimeter tiles after the thin-set beneath the full tiles has hardened. In spaces too narrow for your trowel, comb thin-set onto the backs of tiles.
It’s usually easiest—and most efficient—to set tile in two phases: First set all the full “field” tiles (Photo 11). Then, when the thin-set has hardened for several hours, cut all the perimeter tiles and set them (Photo 12). Here are some tips for both phases of the job:
The trowel you use for setting tile may be different from the one you used to embed the backer. The thin-set label tells you which notch size to use relative to tile size.
Dampen the backer with a sponge just before applying thin-set. This keeps the thin-set from drying out too quickly.
Comb the thin-set in one direction so air pockets won’t be trapped under tile.
Open three or four cartons and mix the tiles as you set them. Pattern and color vary slightly from one carton to the next.
Don’t just set each tile into place; press down on the tile and wiggle it to embed it firmly in the thin-set.
Watch for “tipped” corners. When you press a tile in place, it’s easy to tilt it slightly so that one corner stands higher or lower than neighboring tiles.
When you complete a section of tile, inspect it before moving on. Make sure the tiles line up correctly and spacers are in place. Wipe any thin-set off the face of tiles with a damp sponge.
When the thin-set becomes chunky or too stiff, throw it away and mix more. Never try to extend the life of thin-set or grout by adding water.
Cut perimeter tile so that caulked joints (at tub) are the same width as grouted joints.
Remove the old screws from the toilet flange and apply a heavy bead of silicone caulk. Fasten the extension ring over the old flange with stainless steel or brass screws.
Push backer rod into joints that will be caulked later. The foam rod keeps grout out of joints. After grouting, pull out the rod and caulk the joints.
When all the tiles are in place and the thin-set has hardened, remove all the spacers. Next, raise the toilet flange by adding an extension ring or two (Photo 13). The extended flange should be flush with or higher than the surrounding tile.
When you grout, fill in between the flange and tile. That way, any future leak around the flange will show up on the bathroom floor instead of on the ceiling below. If you plan to use a glue-down transition as we did, this is the time to install it.
Here’s how we dealt with our transition: First, we removed the old metal strip that covered the carpet’s edge. Then we cut our transition strip to fit between the door jambs using a miter saw. Next, we added a tack strip to hold the carpet in place. Before we could glue the transition to the floor (Photo 14), we had to remove a thin strip of the old vinyl floor.
Grout is too brittle to handle the slight shifting movements that are normal in any room. Keep grout out of joints wherever the floor meets the tub, shower, vanity or walls (Photo 15).
Work the grout back and forth across the floor, diagonal to the joints and holding the float at a 45-degree angle. Then scrape off the excess grout, holding the float almost upright.
The thin-set directions will tell you how soon you can grout the floor—usually 24 hours. Grouting isn’t complex. Just plop a couple of scoops of grout onto the floor in a corner, work the grout into joints (Photo 16) and scrape off the excess grout before moving to the next section. In addition:
Don’t just spread the grout over the joints; press hard to pack it into the joints. If you’re doing it right, your forearm will get a good workout.
Whether you’re filling joints or scraping off excess grout, always push the float diagonally across the tiles.
Scrape off the excess to leave tile as clean as you can. The less grout you leave on the tiles, the easier cleanup will be.
When you’re done, cover the grout bucket with a plastic bag and set it in a cool place to slow the hardening process. During cleanup, you may find spots that need a little extra.
Wipe grout off the tile surface with a damp sponge. Wipe gently on the first pass so you don’t pull grout out of the joints. Rinse the sponge often.
Clean the surface of the tile when the grout is stiff enough to stay put in the joints but still soft enough to wipe off the tile surface. During hot, dry weather, grout can become difficult to wipe away in just 10 minutes, so get ready for cleanup before you even mix the grout. You’ll need two buckets of clean water, two sponges, a synthetic scouring pad and a dry rag.
As soon as you’re done grouting, go to the first section you grouted and wipe across a joint with a damp sponge. If the sponge pulls grout out of the joint, wait five minutes and try again. In cool, damp weather, the grout may stay too soft for an hour. When the grout is hard enough, gently wipe the tile with a damp sponge.
Rinse the sponge frequently as you wipe the entire floor (Photo 17). If you come across tough spots, scrub them with the scouring pad. Be careful where you put your feet and knees—don’t mar your perfect grout joints.
Immediately after the first pass, grab the second bucket of clean water and the fresh sponge and make a second, more thorough pass. Then, as the tile surface dries, wipe it with a dry terry cloth. The dry haze should buff off easily. If not, go for fresh water and sponge the floor again. If you can’t get rid of the haze, don’t panic. Products that remove haze are available wherever tile is sold.
Let the grout cure overnight before you caulk joints, set the toilet or reinstall baseboard. Grout sealer is a good precaution against staining: Some products can be applied 24 hours after grouting; others require a two- to three-week wait. If you have leftover tile or grout, keep them in case you have to make repairs in the future. Be sure to write down the brand, color and retailer of the tile.
I’m a devout cheapskate, but when it comes to buying thin-set and grout, I grab the most expensive products on the shelf. More expensive thin-sets and grouts generally contain a higher proportion of the polymers that improve adhesion, durability and stain resistance.
In most situations, cheaper products would perform just fine. But if I can reduce the risks of loose tiles or cracked grout by spending an extra $30 on a typical bathroom project, I consider that a bargain.
Liquid additive is another smart investment. If the thin-set or grout label says you can mix it with water or an additive, use additive. These liquids (labeled “latex, ” “polymer” or “acrylic”) are meant to improve adhesion and stain resistance. But as a bonus, they produce a slick, creamy consistency. Thin-set combs out more smoothly, grout flows easily into joints, and both remain workable longer.
Also buy a mixer for your drill. Mixers come in various styles and sizes. Go easy on the trigger. If you run the drill at full speed, you can create millions of tiny air bubbles, which will weaken the mix.
A tile cutter is the fastest way to cut tile. Just push the handle forward and a small wheel scores the tile. Then push the handle down and the tile snaps in two. You can’t beat a tile cutter for convenience. It makes no mess and you can drag it around the room as you work. But a tile cutter has zero versatility. It makes straight cuts across the entire tile—no curves or corner cuts. Cutting 1 in. or less off a tile can be difficult or impossible. You can rent one at rental centers and some tile shops.
A wet saw cuts with a diamond blade while water cools the blade and eliminates dust. You can cut notches, trim off tiny slivers of tile, cut miters and even make curves. You’ll get clean cuts in any type of tile. But wet saws are messy. They spit water and raise a cloud of gritty mist. If you use one indoors, contain the mist with curtains of plastic film and cover nearby surfaces. You can buy a small wet saw like the one shown here or rent a professional model from a tile store or home or rental center. If you only have a few cuts that require a wet saw, call a tile store. Many make cuts for a small fee.
An angle grinder equipped with a diamond blade can make straight cuts, curves and notches in any type of tile. Since all your cuts are freehand, this isn’t a precision tool, but you can grind away imperfections with the tip of the blade. Use a grinder only outside. Wear a dust mask and eye protection.
A contour gauge is a great tool for marking troublesome shapes on tile. Just press it against any odd-shaped surface (like the curved corner of a bathtub) and transfer the profile to tile.
Here are the tools that can cut your tile. Buy or rent the ones that make the most sense for your project.
In addition to the tools shown here, a carbide abrasive blade that fits in a jigsaw cuts slowly but leaves fairly clean cuts in softer types of ceramic tile and natural stone. A carbide abrasive hole saw cuts perfect holes for plumbing pipes and fixtures.
A rubbing stone is simply an abrasive block, similar to the wheel in a bench grinder. Use it to smooth sharp or slightly chipped cuts that will be exposed.
Have the necessary tools for this DIY project lined up before you start—you’ll save time and frustration.
You’ll also need these specialty tools for working with tile and backer board: Scoring knife, Margin trowel, Tile cutter, 4-in. diamond blade, Drill mixer, Offset saw, Tile cutter, Nippers, Wet saw You can also use an angle grinder for cutting tile.
Italian bathroom. Ph. pixabay CC
