Vamoose Bathroom Cleaner 1L

Read article : Vamoose Bathroom Cleaner 1L

A sparkling bathroom, no scrubbing required

What does it take to get your bathroom gleaming? Maybe one cleaning solution to tackle grout and tiles? An abrasive paste and a load of elbow grease to shift soapy build-up from your tub, and a lot of polishing for your shower screen? Saving you tonnes of time and effort, remarkable Vamoose bathroom cleaner does all this hard work for you – just spray it on and wipe off to leave your whole suite satisfyingly sparkly.

Tough, deep foaming action

Effectively removing soap scum, Vamoose eliminates all the back-breaking hard work and makes bathrooms gleam without all the usual rubbing and scrubbing. Spray it onto your sink and taps, bath, tiles, shower and screen, and the formula clings to surfaces while the deep foaming action gets to work, instantly cutting through build up so that you can wipe it away with ease. For tougher build up like limescale, or for a weekly deep clean, just leave the powerful formula to work for a few minutes before cleaning away to see your bathroom surfaces at their super shiny, as-new best.

Maintains a spotless suite

With a fresh fragrance, Vamoose makes your whole bathroom smell as clean and fresh as it looks, and leaves a super shiny finish that repels dirt to keep surfaces clean for longer. So, as well as cutting down cleaning time, it makes life easier too – just spray it once a week to maintain a spotless, effort-free gleam.

A winning formula

We’ve sold a similar product before, but when the team at Lakeland put Vamoose through its paces, they gave it glowing reviews! Fiona from our Buying team said her bathroom tiles still didn’t have any watermarks a whole week after using Vamoose, and that the sink was free from soapy build-up for much longer than usual. Keep a bottle in your bathroom and you can say a cheery goodbye to scrubbing!

Please note: Not suitable for use on copper or brass fittings.

How to Plumb a Basement Bathroom

Read article : How to Plumb a Basement Bathroom

Adding a basement bathroom

Adding a basement bathroom is a big, complicated project. But that doesn’t mean you can’t do it. Thousands of DIYers successfully tackle the job every year, and so can you.

We will focus on installing the “DWV” system (drain, waste and vent), which is the most difficult part of plumbing a basement bathroom. The DWV system requires some hard labor—breaking up concrete—and enough know-how to construct it so waste will be carried away without problems. You supply the labor; this article will supply the know-how.

The materials for the DWV system shown here cost about $250. Plumbers’ labor rates vary a lot by region, but most licensed pros would charge $1,200 to $2,000 for a job similar to the one shown here.

Figure A: Plumbing a basement bath

Connect the basement bathroom plumbing to the existing drain and vent lines in the floor and ceiling.

Find the main drain line

Photo 1: Locate the main drain

Break through the concrete to verify that the main line is where you think it is and that it’s deep enough to allow adequate downhill slope in the new drain lines.

You’ll have to connect new drain lines to an existing line under the basement. So before you can do any real planning, you have to find that line. First, locate the “main stack,” the large (3 or 4 in. diameter) vertical pipe that runs into the basement floor. From there, the pipe runs under the floor and out to the city sewage system under the street. But it may run at an angle rather than straight out to the street. Look for a cleanout plug along the street-facing wall of the basement. If you find one, that’s most likely the spot where the line exits your home. And usually, the line runs straight from the main stack to the cleanout.

If you have a private septic system, your main line will run toward the location of the drain field. If you’re unsure where the line is, you have a couple of options. You can punch through the floor where you think it is (Photo 1). You might end up enlarging that hole or breaking a second exploratory hole, but that’s not as bad as it sounds; all it will cost you is some wasted time and a couple of extra bags of concrete mix when you patch the floor. Your second option is to get a plumber to help. In most areas, a brief house call will cost you $75 to $150. Some plumbers have access to high-tech equipment that locates lines precisely, but expect to pay $200 for that service.

Slope Makes the Sewage Flow

Drain lines require a downhill slope of at least 1/4 in. per linear foot (see note below) so that waste flows smoothly through the pipes. To determine if your plan allows for that, take a few measurements:

A: The depth of the center of the main line (at the tie-in point).
B: The future depth of the horizontal pipe beneath the drain.

Now do a little math: (A – B) x 4 = the maximum length (in feet) of the drain line, from the main to the end of the horizontal pipe under the drain. If A is 13 in. and B is 10 in., for example, the maximum length of the drain line is 12 ft. (13 – 10 = 3; 3 x 4 = 12).

If your main line isn’t deep enough, you’ll have to locate fixtures closer to the line or install a sewage ejection pump.

Note: Some local codes allow 1/8 in. per foot with 3- or 4-in. pipe.

Plan the system

Once you’ve located the line, you’ll have to make sure it’s deep enough to allow downward slope in the new drain lines that will run from your future bathroom. Then grab a pencil and mark out the whole bathroom on the basement floor: walls, toilet, sink, shower and finally the drain lines.

Consider it all a preplan at this point. Chances are, you’ll have to make some changes as the plan develops. You may want to mock up sections of the system and lay them out on the basement floor using sections of pipe and an assortment of fittings. When the whole system is planned, mark it out on the floor. For photo clarity, we marked out bold lines on the floor. But simple spray paint is fine for drain lines.

Rent a Snapper

A cast iron pipe snapper works by tightening a cutting chain until the pipe cracks. They’re available at tool rental stores. Old cast iron pipe can crush rather than crack. If that happens, you’ll have to abandon the snapper and cut the slow way: with a reciprocating saw. If you have plastic pipe, cutting into the main is quick and easy with a reciprocating saw.

Trench the floor

A plain old sledgehammer will bust up a basement floor. Breaking through at the tie-in point (see Photo 1) may take a few dozen whacks. But once you have a starter hole, the job gets easier because the concrete has space to crack and break off. Within a few minutes, you’ll learn to aim your blows and bust out a neat trench line. Pick out the larger chunks of concrete as you go. Ideally, most of your trench will be just wide enough for your spade. When digging, toss the dirt on a pile separate from the larger chunks of concrete. You don’t want big chunks in the soil you’ll use for backfill later.

Build the drain system

Photo 2: Break out a section of drain

After completing the trenches for the new lines, cut into the main line so you can install a Y-fitting. Our tie-in point was near an existing hub, so we cut out the hub. Make sure no one runs water (or flushes!) while the line is open.

Photo 3: Tie into the drain

Slip rubber couplers onto the main line, insert the Y-fitting, slide the couplers over the joints and tighten the bands. Then plug the inlet and grant your family the freedom to flush again.

Photo 4: Build the drain system

The location of the drains and vents is critical—check and double-check your work before you glue joints together. Determine where the exact location of the shower drain will be after the walls are framed. Cap open pipes to keep sewer gas out of your home. Don’t bury the lines until the building inspector has approved your work.

Photo 5: Patch the floor

Backfill the trench with soil and screed 3 in. of concrete over it. Pack the soil firmly so it won’t settle later. Smooth the concrete with a steel trowel.

Begin the drain system by cutting into the main line (Photo 2) and splicing in a Y-fitting (Photo 3). We used a no-hub cast iron Y-fitting to tie into our cast iron main. But you can use a plastic Y-fitting instead if you glue short sections of pipe into the Y-fitting to accommodate the rubber couplers. Use that same method to tie into a plastic main.

For your DWV system, you can use ABS plastic (as we did; Photo 4) or PVC. Both are easy to cut and join. The hard part of any underground pipe work is building branches that end up exactly where you want them while maintaining a constant slope of at least 1/4 in. per running foot.

Here are tips to help you get it right:

• Buy twice as many fittings as you think you’ll need and a few types that you don’t think you’ll need. Return the leftovers when the job is done.
• If you don’t have a torpedo level, buy one (see Photo 7). It’s the handiest tool for checking the slope of pipes.
• When a section of pipe is complete, pack dirt under and around it to keep it from shifting as you build other sections.
• Know the “rough-in” of your toilet (the distance from the wall to the center of the drain, most likely 12 in.). Don’t forget to account for the thickness of framing and drywall.
• Backfill the trenches with care (Photo 5). You want to pack the soil tightly to prevent settling later, but be sure not to move the pipes as you tamp the soil.

Build the vent system

Photo 6: Build the vent system

After framing the bathroom walls, assemble the vent lines. We ran our vent lines below the floor joists and later framed a lower ceiling to hide the pipes.

Photo 7: Connect to an existing vent

Glue short sections of plastic pipe into a T- or Y-fitting, cut out a section of the existing vent pipe and make connections with rubber couplers.

Photo 8: Position the shower drain

Set the shower pan in place and measure from the walls to determine the exact location of the drain. Assemble the drain and trap without glue. Then set the pan in place again to check your work before you finally glue up the fittings.

The vent system is a lot simpler than the drain system. We ran vent lines under the floor joists (Photo 6) and framed in a lower ceiling later. If you want to preserve ceiling height by running pipes through the joists, you’ll have to bore some large holes, which can weaken the joists. To avoid that, see “How to drill through floor joists.”

In most basements, you can tie your new vent system into the line that vents the laundry sink. Our plumbing inspector allowed us to connect our new 2-in. vent line to an existing 1-1/2-in. vent. Before cutting a section out of the old steel vent, we installed extra metal strapping to support the pipe during and after cutting.

Note: Plumbing codes vary by locality. The rules we give in this article generally follow the strictest codes. Your local rules may be more lenient about issues like vent sizing, the choice of fittings, etc.

Waste line Q & A

When should I use a T-fitting?

Use a T-fitting in drain lines to connect a horizontal pipe to vertical pipes. It can also be used to tie vent lines into horizontal drains or to join vent lines.

When should I use a Y?

In the drain system, use a Y-fitting to connect horizontal pipes (Photo 3). Along with a 45-degree “street” fitting, you can use a Y-fitting to run vertical drainpipes into horizontal pipes as shown. A Y-fitting can also be used in vent systems.

Why does the home center carry three different types of L-fittings?

• A standard L-fitting is used for horizontal-to- vertical flow in drain systems.
• A “sweep” or “long-turn” L-fitting is OK for almost any situation and is required in two situations: horizontal-to-horizontal turns and vertical-to-horizontal turns (as shown). But it can be used in any situation where space allows.
• Use a vent L-fitting only in vents.

What’s a street fitting?

Standard fittings have hubs that fit over pipes. A street fitting has a “streeted” end that fits into a hub, so you can connect it directly to another fitting without using a section of pipe. That saves labor and space.

What size drainpipe should I use?
The toilet requires 3-in. or larger. Use 2-in. for the others; pipes smaller than 2 in. aren’t allowed beneath a concrete slab.

Venting Q & A

Vent L-fitting

A vent L-fitting can be used anywhere in the vent system, but only in the vent system—never where waste flows. The other two types of L-fittings are OK for venting, too.

What’s the vent for?
A plumbing vent is kind of like the air intake on a gas can; it lets in air. Without venting, a slug of sewage racing through a waste line creates air pressure and vacuum in the pipe. That means noisy, gurgling drains. Even worse, vacuum can suck all the water out of traps, allowing sewer gas to flow freely into your home. Yuck.

Vent-to-trap distance—there’s a limit
Every drain needs a trap, and every trap needs a vent. The maximum distance between the trap and vent depends on the diameter of the pipe.

Memorize these distances for midterm exams:

For 1-1/4″ pipe, the max. horizontal distance to vent is 30″ For 1-1/2″ pipe, the max. horizontal distance to vent is 42” For 2″ pipe, the max. horizontal distance to vent is 5′ For 3″ pipe, the max. horizontal distance to vent is 6′ For 4″ pipe, the max. horizontal distance to vent is 10′

Note: A toilet has a built-in trap, so it doesn’t need one in the drain line. It still needs a vent, though.

Can vents run horizontally?
Yes, but horizontal vent lines must be at least 6 in. above the “spill line,” which is the level where water would overflow the rim of a sink, tub or toilet.

What size vent pipes do I need?
A typical bathroom like the one we show (sink, toilet, shower or tub) requires a 2-in. vent. You could run smaller pipes to the sink or shower, but it’s usually easier to use one size for the whole system.

Required Tools for this Project

Have the necessary tools for this DIY project lined up before you start—you’ll save time and frustration.

In addition you will need a cast iron pipe snapper and a
torpedo level.

Required Materials for this Project

Avoid last-minute shopping trips by having all your materials ready ahead of time. Here’s a list.

RV Plumbing Tips – Cleaning RV Faucets, Sink Drains & Shower Wands

Read article : RV Plumbing Tips – Cleaning RV Faucets, Sink Drains & Shower Wands

The effects of hard water on RV sinks, faucets and drains can be an ongoing problem for RVers. This page describes a few tips for how we remove these pesky mineral deposit buildups from our bathroom and kitchen sinks in our fifth wheel trailer and keep the water flowing smoothly in our shower wand and RV toilet rinse sprayer.

RV plumbing tips for cleaning RV faucets and drains and removing mineral deposits" width="731" height="384" class="size-full wp-image-50990" />

RV plumbing tips for removing mineral deposits and cleaning RV faucets and drains.

We like the water to flow freely in our RV vanity sink faucet, kitchen sink faucet and in the shower and RV toilet sprayer wands, however, periodically these faucets begin to spray water in weird directions because their inner workings have gotten clogged up by mineral deposits from the hard water.

In our bathroom vanity, our first step is to remove and clean the screen filter in the faucet. Sometimes the faucet tip can be unscrewed by hand, but if we’ve let it go too long, we have to use a pair of pliers to break the faucet tip free due to corrosion that makes it impossible to unscrew.

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Remove the RV faucet screen (with pliers if it’s stuck!)

Then we unscrew the entire screen assembly from the faucet.

The faucet tip unscrews from the faucet.

RV faucet screen" width="681" height="518" class="size-full wp-image-50995" />

Ugh… the screen is pretty dirty. No wonder the water comes out funny!

This time the screen was very corroded. We remove the corrosion and mineral buildup by putting all the pieces in a bath of white vinegar for 20-30 minutes or so.

Prior to putting the pieces in the white vinegar bath, it is a good idea to make note of the order that these parts go into the faucet assembly!

After noting how the pieces go together, soak them in white vinegar.

After the bath, the bits of corrosion can be seen in the white vinegar!

Here are all the pieces. You can see the dirt that came off in the vinegar bath!

Using an old toothbrush, we scrub each piece until it is clean.

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Use a toothbrush to get the screen totally clean.

Scrub all the parts with the toothbrush.

Then we reassemble the pieces in the correct order and orientation.

.

Reassemble the pieces.

.

.

To make it easier to remove the faucet tip the next time we do this job, it helps to grease the threads with a marine PTEF lubricant prior to screwing the assembly back onto the faucet.

Lubricating the threads makes it easier to unscrew next time!

.

Screw it back into the faucet.

Ta da! Now the flow will be smooth and full.

Our trailer has white plastic sinks in the bathroom and kitchen, and these sinks often develop a skanky brown ring around the sink drain. For years, we relied on Comet to clean these sinks. We sprinkled it on the entire sink, let it sit for a bit, and then scrubbed.

We recently discovered that Baking Soda is just as effective!! The fantastic thing about Baking Soda is that it is non-toxic. This is wonderful not only for our gray water holding tanks but also for the RV dump stations as well as the septic fields and municipal waste water treatment systems that are downstream from them.

It’s also really cheap!

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White plastic RV sinks are prone to getting ugly stains.

RV sink drain" width="701" height="511" class="size-full wp-image-51009" />

Yuck!

We simply sprinkle it on the sink and then scrub the sink with a damp Scotch-Brite scrubbing pad.

RV sink drain cleaning with baking soda" width="721" height="495" class="size-full wp-image-51010" />

Sprinkle the baking soda in the sink and scrub the stains with a damp scrubby pad.

What a great result — a wonderfully squeaky clean sink!

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Sparkling!

The drain plug also gets gummy, and we use an old toothbrush to scrub it clean with either baking soda and/or Murphy’s Oil Soap (a handy all around biodegradable cleanser).

In an RV that is used for dry camping a lot, like ours, the bathroom vanity sink drain can get really gross really quickly because in an effort to conserve fresh water not much clean water gets flushed down the drain.

This can result in foul odors in the sink drain, and it’s pretty unsightly too.

So, we do two things.

First, we scrub the inside of the bathroom sink drain with an old toothbrush. To get a longer reach down the drain, we taped our toothbrush to an old tent stake we had lying around. Anything long and narrow will work.

RV sink drain" width="800" height="256" class="size-full wp-image-51013" />

Tape an old toothbrush to a long stick to reach deep down the RV sink drain.

RV sink drain" width="721" height="481" class="size-full wp-image-51014" />

Scrub inside the sink drain.

We also scrub the sink drain plug.

Second, to keep the RV bathroom sink drain fresh smelling, we use Happy Camper Holding Tank Treatment which we’ve found is a particularly good deodorizer. We put scoop of powder in an old water bottle, fill it up with water and shake it well (the bottle gets warm as the enzymes get activated!), and then pour it down the drain.

Most of it goes into the gray water tank, but a small amount stays in the bathroom sink drain p-trap and does its magic there, killing off the offensive odors.

RV sink drain plut" width="721" height="481" class="size-full wp-image-51012" />

Scrub the sink drain plug with a toothbrush.

To keep our RV shower in tip-top shape, we clean the drain there as well. The biggest problem in our RV shower drain isn’t foul odors, because the shower drain gets flushed with lots of water everyday. Instead, the challenge with the RV shower drain is accumulated hair.

In a house, it’s easy enough to use a powerful cleanser like Drano to clean out any clogs caused by hair, but we don’t want strong chemicals like that sitting in our gray wastewater holding tank. Afterall, we want the enzymes and bacteria in the Happy Camper and Unique RV Digest-It holding tank treatment products we use to thrive and go to work breaking things down!

So, we use a long spring hook (and flashlight) to pull the hair out. It just takes a few minutes and then the drain is clear.

Some RV shower stalls may have drain components that can be removed for cleaning. Ours doesn’t.

RV shower drain" width="631" height="539" class="size-full wp-image-51015" />

Use a spring hook to pull hair out of the RV shower drain.

Periodically, the RV shower wand gets crudded up with mineral deposits just like our RV sink faucets do. Again, we rely on white vinegar to clean up the deposits clogging the spray holes in the shower nozzle.

First, we pour the white vinegar through the shower wand to let it soak from the inside.

RV shower wand" width="681" height="712" class="size-full wp-image-51016" />

The RV shower wand can be cleaned with white vinegar.

Then we soak the shower wand’s face in a bath of white vinegar.

RV shower wand" width="751" height="421" class="size-full wp-image-51017" />

Put the RV shower wand face down in a white vinegar bath to clean all the little holes.

If we’ve let a little too much time pass, we’ll also use a toothpick to clean out each hole in the shower head. We use bamboo toothpicks because they hold up well in water. Ordinary wooden toothpicks tend to disintegrate when they get wet. A scribe also works well.

The before-and-after difference in the flow of water through the shower wand is startling. When half of the little holes are blocked from mineral deposits and the other half have an impeded flow, the water can feel like needles on your skin. After cleaning the wand, it is more like a waterfall.

RV shower wand with a toothpick or scribe" width="681" height="516" class="size-full wp-image-51040" />

Use a toothpick or scribe to clean each hole in the shower wand.

Lots of RVers love the Oxygenics RV shower head. We don’t use it because it doesn’t work well with the low water pressure we use to conserve water since we dry camp every night, but for RVers who get water hookups a lot, these shower heads are extremely popular. Of course, in hard water areas, these shower heads will need periodic cleaning as well.

The RV toilet bowl rinsing wand is also subject to corrosion from mineral deposits, and after a while when we go to rinse the toilet bowl we find the water flow from the sprayer is restricted and funky.

RV toilet sprayer wand cleaning" width="721" height="481" class="size-full wp-image-51018" />

The RV toilet sprayer wand gets clogged with minerals too.

Again, it’s easy to unscrew the end of the toilet spay wand, put it in a white vinegar for 20-30 minutes, scrub it a bit with a toothbrush, and then put it back on the wand.

Unscrew the tip of the toilet rinsing wand and soak it in white vinegar to clean the holes.

As an aside, if you have energy leftover after cleaning all your RV sinks, faucets, drains and spray nozzles, a spray bottle filled with a water and white vinegar mixture is super for washing the windows. As I wrote this, some flies got in our trailer and Mark started spraying them when they landed on the window next to him using a spray bottle filled with water and white vinegar. Besides slowing them down and killing them, he was really impressed with how clean the window was when he finished!

So, these are a few of the things we do to keep our sinks and drains flowing smoothly in our life on the road in our RV.

We hope they help you too!

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Home Improvement Questions including "If the rear bumper of your car is detached a little bit is there any kind of glue or Super Glue which will work to hold it on"

Read article : Home Improvement Questions including "If the rear bumper of your car is detached a little bit is there any kind of glue or Super Glue which will work to hold it on"

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Most modern car bumpers have been made with a specific mix that makes it almost impossible to glue. Many of these products are 'hot air welded' rather than glued.

Popularity: 47

You need bushings in the bottom door hinge. You might have to remove the finder to get to it. You might trying to go to a you pull it and find a good hinge from a 89 to 97 Thunderbird or Cougar. It would be less work.

Popularity: 83

Many gasket kits actually recommend using a gasket goo. As long as you are careful and get only a light coating to hold the gasket while installing you will have no problem.

Popularity: 45

It is easiest if the gas line and the electrical outlet are already set up in your home. At that point, it is easy to set up the appliance. When hooking up a new or used gas appliance it is required that you use a new gas line. I always try to use a flexible line and make sure it is extra long so …

Popularity: 153

When it comes to moss or mold on a roof, the culprit is actually a blue-green algae which is most commonly found in warmer, humid climates. Although it does not damage the roofing the black stains it leaves do not look good. One solution if there are only a few shingles involved, would be to repla…

Popularity: 330

Books on Home Repair If you're likely to shop for tools and supplies at a Home Depot, then I recommend you have a look at their own series of home improvement books. (Note that there is considerable redundancy between the various volumes they offer.) These books provide detailed instructions for a w…

Popularity: 180

Get Rid of Bees in Walls Call in the exterminator. -Zo Another option: Take a one gallon jug , glass is preferred, plastic will do, take 1/3 cup of sugar and fill 1/4 full with water. The bees will go into the jug and drown. place this where you have the bee problem. This works outside with ye…

Popularity: 25

First of all DO NOT start a fire in the fireplace to drive the bees out. The bees could have damaged the lining of the fireplace creating a home fire hazard or created a nest that is blocking the flue and this will back smoke up into the house. Step 1. Install a chimney balloon or inflatable damper…

Popularity: 38

Unless you are replacing a 16 foot wide window, you will need to install a header. Your best bet to span that distance is a laminated beam or other engineered lumber, and you will need 3 jack studs supporting it on each side. Since you are making a structural change, you will need to pull a permit a…

Popularity: 117

There is a wide array of costs concerning roof replacement, regardless of the area. The material used, size in square footage, labor costs, and so on. Sometimes a second layer of shingles can be added, but use caution since you may just be covering up an underlying issue with the roof structure or m…

Popularity: 126

Insurance for older homes You may not find a company willing to provide all-risk coverage or replacement cost coverage. You should be able to buy a named-peril, ACV (pays depreciated value due to age) policy with basic fire & extended coverage. Contact a few agents. In Florida, most insurers wi…

Popularity: 175

The general theory or principle of homeowners insurance as it pertains to the structure itself is to repair or replace it to its pre-loss condition. It does not cover issues that are caused by deferred maintenance. Coverage for Structural integrity and quality of workmanship issues are generally a…

Popularity: 191

Vacuuming large debris through skimmer without using a leaf trap. A leaf trap has a bag inside for catching debris and is placed between the end of your pool vacuum hose and the skimmer. It keeps leaves from clogging your skimmer line when you vacuum. It's OK to not to use a leaf trap as long a…

Popularity: 65

Swimming pool paint companies do not recomment mixing paint types rubber goes back on rubber or epoxy back on epoxySo if you want epoxy, sandblast off the rubber. BTW Silica sand is very toxic and best left to the pros, the paint ain't much to help out the health either.Take special care when painti…

Popularity: 65

I believe that when chlorinated water splashes on the limestone, it will create a crossive environment that may be adverse to the metal wall.

Popularity: 47

Use "pool repair mortar" if it is under water or any exterior latex fortified thinset mortar if it's not under water. After trying several types of products that didn't work I used "liquid nail" which can be purchased at a local hardware store. You then have to re-grout the tile and seal them.

Popularity: 45

About 2.6 million dollars as there is sold bed rock to remove and the blasting will cost several hundred thousand dollars then there is the EPA and environmental impact studies and noise abatement and having to remove the trees that are housing endangered birds and Then installing Schedule 80 PVC pi…

Popularity: 55

It sounds like you do need to put air in your tank. Look here for a fairly clear description of the process: gremcoinc.com The exact process will depend on your system. No. Low air in the tank would only make the pump run more. Pressure is a factor of the pump and the well. The tank will only hol…

Popularity: 388

Answer If there is no plumbing in the wall it has to be either a leak from upstairs that's running down the wall or the grout or caulk has gone bad and every time you take a shower you make it worse. Grout is cheap and easy. Try scraping out the old grout between the tiles and then regrout between t…

Popularity: 163

Sometimes chemicals causes rust to get into the water lines. a change in water pressure will cause this rust to turn loose and come through into the bathtub or other appliances. Another cause could be a break in the pipe. What you may be seeing is dirt. What happens is when the water flows, and then…

Popularity: 241

Many plumbing supply stores have a list of contractors that can be recommended. Otherwise, ask around to see who has been used before. Angie's List (a service you pay for) has vetted home improvement professionals if you would like to go that route.

Popularity: 162

I usually use the thickest wax ring I can find with the plastic funnel thing embedded in it. If it's a little too thick, the extra wax will just squeeze out a bit underneath the toilet. Sometimes its necessary to double up on the ring (use two - one with the funnel one without) to make a good seal o…

Popularity: 310

Depending on the condition of the bladder tank sometimes you can add more air to it for a temporary fix, but ultimately you will have to replace it. Press in the air valve on top to see if any water comes out, if so then the bladder is water logged.   Depending on the tank, the bladder can so…

Popularity: 191

%DETAILS% Answer It's possible that you have a blockage, on the toilet line and the water is coming up in the tub to alleviate pressure. Or, your vent may be clogged causing what is called back syphonage, causing the water not to push out.

Popularity: 95

Installing a Toilet on a Cast Yes, you can put a toilet on it. The hardest part would be putting a toilet flange onto the cast. There are two options: you can either get a cast iron flange to fit over it and pour a lead joint or you have to chip around the pipe enough to get a no hub band on it. Yo…

Popularity: 514

You normally locate the vent at the sink drain, but you can locate a vent at every fixture if you like.  *The sink is vented above the tee holding the trap arm to the sink. The sink drain will go below the floor and be joined(usually with a wye) from the shower drain which then is joined into …

Popularity: 281

If this noise occurs after shutting off a fixture (e.g., shower or sink), I'd pop the lid on the toilet tank and check there. Sometimes, this type of noise occurs when water pressure is reduced somewhere else, causing the fill valve to open slightly and howl like a foghorn. So, after shutting off th…

Popularity: 216

It depends on your system. If your on city water you should be able to pull off the airaters on the sinks and open up all your fixtures until the air is out. If your on a well you could try the same thing. If it doesen't work on a well it could be that your well pump isn't filling your tank as fast …

Popularity: 210

Be aware that for the first few minutes after turning off you will get the shower head leak a little. This is because the shower head has a large cavity inside that fills up with water in use. When you turn off, that water has to go somewhere, so it dribbles through the outlets of the shower head. …

Popularity: 249

Several things cause the toilet to "keep running." Either the flap in the bottom of the tank isn't sealing shut. When you push the handle, a chain connects an arm on the handle to the flap on the bottom of the tank. The flap opens letting the water in the tank run through the bowl flushing the float…

Popularity: 76

Yes, the baffle is choking off the vent, causing the toilets to flush slow.

Popularity: 48

Do you have the tub where you can measure it? If so, measure from the back of the tub to the center of the overflow, that will give you the measurement for the drain.

Popularity: 72

First, remove the shower head and test the valve. If you have plenty of water at the shower with the head removed, then the problem is a clogged shower head. Clean it or replace it. What the hell...just replace it. You deserve it. Go buy one of those cool shower massage heads to replace it. If you…

Popularity: 85

If it is loose debris, simply remove the strainers at each faucet and turn on the water. If the depris is hardened and cannot be removed in this manner, replace the offending water line.Ans 2 - The above answer will help, but not always cure the problem. Other parts where debris will almost certainl…

Popularity: 44

Low water pressue is caused by debris in the line, depending on the type of pipe, ie. galvanized produces buildup which restricts flow. Foul smell is caused by food particles in your disposal. This can be easily corrected by pouring bleach down your drain, also check to make sure trap is not dry.Ans…

Popularity: 56

Look for a special toilet that mounts directly to the floor and the water drains into a box mounted on the floor behind the toilet, under the tank. This box contains a pump that runs off electricity (plugs into standard outlet), and when the toilet is flushed, the waste goes into the box and is pum…

Popularity: 60

Yes.

Popularity: 54

install a tank and a sewage ejector pump There are also "macerating toilets" which grind the waste and eject it vertically through a 3/4" or 1" waste pipe until the waste is higher than the existing waste drain pipe where it can then flow downward using gravity. These macerating toilets can cost u…

Popularity: 91

If you have alot of fine sand in your water as we do, it could be that as the water heats it cooks the sand onto the heating coil and therefore narrows the space the hot water travels through. It does not affect the cold at all only the hot. If this is the case you need a new heating coil for your …

Popularity: 77

Reset the pressure switch to energize (close) at a higher pressure. I would increase it 10# for starters.Ans 2 - That won't do it. The only way is to feed the outside hydrants from the pressure tank.

Popularity: 43

If the pressure problem is in the shower try removing the shower head but leave the shower arm in place. Then turn the water on and see if you have a good flow of water with no shower head in place. Sometimes the shower head gets clogged with a mineral deposit which needs to be disloved with somethi…

Popularity: 52

Yes.

Popularity: 52

Replace the shower valve (faucet).   I would call a plumber to check it out. Because there may be another reason, it depends on other things besides faucet. Like a crimped water line under slab floor, if you have copper water lines, i have seen the cooper pipe go all the way into a tee and bl…

Popularity: 62

alot of times if the fittings are close together the solder takes but doesen't get full penetration. over time the pressure of the water will push through the solder joint. the best thing to do is drain down the system and replace the leaky joints. More than likely the plumber used too much flux or…

Popularity: 71

The pressure in your tank should be checked with water drained from the tank, with the water drained the air pressure in the tank should be set 2psi lower than your kick in pressure. So for a kick in pressure of 25psi the tank air pressure should be set at 23psi.Ans 2 - Water should NOT be totally d…

Popularity: 48

Not without breaking up some concrete or crawling under it, if you have a wood floor, and you will have to know where you can tie it into the existing system before beginning anything.

Popularity: 36

Low Water Pressure The further away your taps are (example: the bathroom) the less water pressure you have. If you have a lot of trees around your property I suggest getting "Rotor Rooter" in to clean out your pipes. Especially in an older home the pipes can have all sorts of odd things in the…

Popularity: 48

The pressure can be adjusted at the pump. You may need to replace the inlet to the home with 3/4 inch water line. If you have 1/2 inch line and a high iron content, the pipes may be partially plugged.Ans 2 - You don't say if this is a shallow well with jet pump or a deep well (over 75 feet) with a s…

Popularity: 54

The easiest way to do this, is to tie into the drain below the lavatory piping as it connects to the vertical pipes in the wall.Cut in the tee for the washer below the tee for the lavatory.Run the 1 1/2" or 2" pipe horisontaly to the washer location,and add a p-trap of the same size.If the p-trap is…

Popularity: 94

i found a great website for discount shower heads, but it also has a great support section with step by step pictures and instructions, including tips on increasing water pressure.htp://www.showerstore.com

Popularity: 51

Not much choice other than to shut off the water to the entire house at the meter or at a secondary valve that may be installed where the water main enters the house.Yes, that is the only way, other than freezing the pipe using a special tool some plumbers carry, where if no valves are found or if a…

Popularity: 52

If you have an old complex built pre 80's, you may not have pressure balance shower valves. Replace existing valve with a new pressure balance valve. The problem is most notable in second and above floors, but can occur at the ground level as well.Setting at the water heater has been chaged. This …

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Replace the flapper. If that doesn't work, try a Flusher Fixer Kit.

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Replace the shower valve.

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Adjust pressure regulator valve (P.R.V.) Turn clockwise. remove water saver from shower head

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Shower valve is bad. Replace it.Ans 2 - Shower valves often become plugged with debris. Many of them can simply be cleaned by carefully removing the control lever and and ball and then picking out the debris. Be careful to lay all parts in order if you dismantle it. This may take about an hour, but …

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the new one has a aeriator that's working right

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the blue could be from over use of a joint compound used by plumbers. Have you recently had work done? If so it should go away after it is flushed out for awhile. good luck snm

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Because by flushing the toilet while using the shower, you have removed some of the water pressure on the cold side. This decreases the amount of water flowing to the shower head. Therefore changing the mix more toward the hot side. Answer this is also due to incorrect pipe size installation of cold…

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You might want to replace your seats inside the body of the faucet. You can pick up a seat wrench at any Home Depot or plumbing supply house. Burrs on the seats casue your washers to get cut and, inturn, they cause the faucet to leak. If that doesnt work, chances are that you have a hairlne fracture…

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For Moen, there is a part called a "posi temp" and this can be replaced to manage the hot water. You may need a specialized tool called a puller. There is an amusing You Tube with Steven Lavmoniere that shows the process to do this. Maybe. If it is a Moen or other type of single handle shower valv…

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Buy a new toilet. The trap in the toilet probably has a crack in it allowing the water in the bowl to leak out.ANS 2 - Have you carefully inspected the bowl for cracks ? - Please do this first, before rushing out and wasting money. There may be other reasons for this/

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Yes. It is called a carrier fitting. These are only sold at plumbing supply stores. I would not suggest trying to install it by yourself.

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Yes. If not it will be a wet vent and cause MAJOR problems.

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simple, you increase the height of the storage tank thus increasing the water head pressure to the cylinder or install a continuous rated pump (but not recommend) for best results change the cylinder to an unvented (output: potentially 22ltrs at 3 bar) :o)

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Yes, programmable thermostats can reduce the energy used for air conditioning or heating by 5 to 30%. Programmable thermostats save money by turning the air conditioner to a higher setting (or heater to a lower setting) when no one is present in the house, or in the evenings when it is cooler. [Fro…

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Balance insulation is best way to keep heating and cooling costs down, For that propose glass window & Doors at your home is a natural way which has been admired by peoples from A longer time. But it gives a versatile look to your home if it installed well.

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A good rule of thumb for HVAC contractors is usually 600 square feet per ton of cooling. With a 2200 square ft. home you should have no less than a 3.5 ton heat pump with no more than a 10kw heat strip. This is a general figure. The type of windows and how many you have plays a big part in the fact…

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Regular cleaning can be done with detergent and water, and rinsed; or commercial household cleaners or bathroom cleaners used according to label directions. Do not use scouring powders or other abrasives which can scratch the finish. Special cleaning may be needed for ceramic tile in bathrooms if t…

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Latex is water-based paint, so take a very thin rag, put it over the edge of a putty knife and scrape very carefully. It should come off quite easily. Don't rush this job! Take your time and the latex should come off like butter.If the paint has a tenacious bond, use some denatured alcohol to slowly…

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Good luck. I did that several years ago and never could get it off. I ended up painting the concrete. You could try muriatic acid, though, that's the only thing I did not try, just because I'd never heard of it.   Paint stripper.

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First, brush off the loose ashes. Spray the brick with water. Then, mix a mild cleaner with water and use that to clean off the soot.

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Alternatives to Painters Tape     There are a few that I try + Spray shield, slide it up or under the baseboard. Mainly if you are able to slide it under the baseboards it works wonders. +Use painters tape and seal it with painter's caulk. I've tried the green tape and it sometim…

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Aha! I just had this problem this past summer, but it was just the normal squirrels. My husband had to rent a trap (won't harm the squirrels)and put a lump of peanut butter in the cage to attract them (they love it!) Sounds like you have a family of them, so it's going to take you several trips. Too…

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The gravity is the same regardless of flooring type. The bouncyness of the floor depends on the floor material and this is what affects how high the ball will bounce. For example, carpet will absorb energy and ball will not bounce as high as on concrete or a sprung wood floor, which do not take a lo…

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An easy way is to use a paint scraper. Any sharp edged object should be useful.It is important that you do this regularly...soot can actually catch fire if left to build up, and can therefore be very dangerous.

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Answer Buy a spud pistol and shoot them. This is the best way. I am going to do this myself. Shooting at them annoys them and this puts them off. Continuous sniping at them for many years leads them to learn to stay away. But lizards being slow learners, this may take time. If any one knows a bet…

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Answer here's a few more pennies... The glue preferred by pool pros for this application is Mr. Sticky's Underwater Glue. It is sticky underwater, does not become brittle, easy to work with. you can find it at mrstickys.com Well here is my 2 cents worth, I am not in the pool repair business b…

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If there are supply valves feeding the supply lines connecting your faucet, they may be closed, or simply your faucet components/inserts and or supply lines may be restricted.ANS 2 - most common cause for this is a plugged aerator or stop valve.

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Answer light a fire CHECK AND SEE IF AN ANIMAL OR BIRD HAS BUILT NEST WHICH IS KEEPING YOUR CHIMNEY'S FLUE OPEN. Answer You need to close the damper. look inside the flute 4 handle,and push or pull. Answer It could either be your Flue is stuck open slightly or you have a crack in the chimney...eithe…

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If its a nice big wide dent you may be able to pop it out take off the door panel make sure the window is up use a small block of wood to pop it out if its a small dent then you need a grinder pondo primer paint sander etc a lot of time an patience When a dent occurs, the metal is pushed in. The …

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If the toilet and shower are in an upper floor then there is a PVC drain for both that will drain to either the sewer or septic. If there is a vertical piece to this, as there is in my basement, then you actually get some dribbling and running sounds from the water 'falling' down that vertical PVC. …

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Answer Since there are so many different advances in "indoor plumbing" recorded from many time periods it is hard to be precise. I found this webiste to be of much help. http://www.theplumber.com/H_index.html Hope this helps to answer. -JRB- Answer The earliest identifiable flushing toile…

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I have used a product called Goof Off. One could probably purchase it at Home Depot. It is specifically used to remove water-based, latex paints off of fabric or other surfaces. I would test a small spot first to make sure it will not damage of discolor the surface. I have used this on fabric be…

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Using Underwater Glue, you can easily repair pool liners without draining the pool. Instructions are below. 1. Get a piece of PVC (vinyl) liner patch material that would provide a surface approx 2" larger than the slit all the way around the slit. 2. If possible, rough up with sandpaper both the a…

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I would glue it with silicon and hold the edges with tape till firm.

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Answer Go to your local hardware store and ask them this question. There are all sorts of products to get rid of that rust (most of it) before going to the expense of putting a liner up. Answer I agree: fix the cause of the rust and remove the rust before attempting to cover it up. If not, you …

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Towel Bar HeightHere is input:Whatever height is most comfortable for you considering your height. If you are remodeling a home to sell, I would place it at around 4 feet. Just make sure that a large bath towel will not drag on the floor.Standard adult towel bar height is indeed 48". For kids, 36" i…

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Just today we had a company come out to work on a home we just purchased that has a neww bladder tank, they said it should be at 38p.s.i. pre charge is set at aprox 15 lbs P.S.I. Set well pressure at 55 to 60 lbs  A better rule of thumb is the pump cut-in pressure minus 2 psi.ANS 4 -Factory p…

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I'm from British Columbia, Canada and we have the odd year where we are over-run with yellow jackets. Yellow jackets hatch out in grassy areas so go to your local nursery and ask them what environmentally safe product you can put on your grass to safetly get rid of them. It's doubtful they do build …

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Depending if your on a well or public water system ,Well sys just increase your pressure with your pressure switch ,adjustment of your pressure regulator valve if so equiped (turn in )clockwisePlumbers generally apply a narrow vent in the tubular flow of your plumbing pipes to increase the water pre…

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I recently installed a new pump and filter. The tools and materials that I needed were: 1. Screwdriver for connecting the electrical wires to the pump. 2. An 8 foot piece of PVC pipe from Home Depot. 3. An assortment of PVC elbows and adaptor fittings for the pipes (also from Home Depot) 4. PVC prim…

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Try using 3-m spray glue. make sure surface is clean. squirt a "light"coat on both surfaces, let it sit for a minute, lay it down. WARNING once you lay it down, you cant pull it up again, so do it right the first time.

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Answer I would think the bathroom has leaked....alot of pipes to a bath, could be any of them. At least you know, now you can fix the problem, and use Kilz to paint with it does cover mold and mildew. Answer The worst problem is not fixing the pipes, but fixing the resultant damage. It is pos…

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Answer garden bugs

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Hire an expert to install a support bar to hold the weight of the AC. The support bar must be mounted to the surface of the building, most preferably, a brick building.

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u can use construction adhesive or build the wall out w/ 2x4 on the flat .....then glue @ nail 2 the wood. better yet use small concrete nails into mortar joints thru 1" x 3/4" furring strips spaced an 16" centers. small lag screws into lead expanders work well if mortar is too hard and as stated ab…

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You can purchase Loctite Auto Mirror Adhesive to replace the rear view mirror at any auto parts store or Walmart. Follow the directions to the letter.

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It depends on the valve, who makes it and what model is it?you have a cross connection in the water system ( I don't think it is the value, most of the time it is on your washing machine hot and cold water valve. Go to a faucet away from the machine and turn on the water. Then go listen at the machi…

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you can use either "bondo" or "Minwax Wood Filler" to patch the wood.Dont mix more that you can use in 5-10 min.. Use a good stiff putty knife,let set ,sand, then prime and paint.This will hold up in Minnesota winters/summers(not to mention bondo is used on cars and boats). Hope this will work for …

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