How to Change a Tub Diverter | Home Guides

Read article : How to Change a Tub Diverter | Home Guides

A broken tub diverter can reduce the water pressure of your shower.

The little knob on the end of your tub spout is the diverter. When you raise the diverter with the water running, it "diverts" the water from the spout to the showerhead. Over time, the diverter can wear out. When this happens, it reduces the water pressure for the shower, because not enough water diverts from the spout. A replacement tub spout is an inexpensive fix to your diverter dilemma, and you can change it to match your bathroom decor.

1

Lay a towel in the bottom of your bathtub beneath the spout. The towel can catch any dropped screws and protect the tub enamel from dropped tools and parts.

2

Look for a small setscrew on the underside of the spout next to the wall. Use a hex key to remove the setscrew and pull the spout off the supply pipe. If your tub spout does not have a setscrew, insert a heavy-duty screwdriver into the spout opening and twist it counterclockwise to remove it from the supply pipe.

3

Measure the length of the supply pipe from the wall to the tip. Take the measurement and the original tub spout to a home improvement center or a plumbing supply store. This will ensure you get the correct replacement spout with the proper diverter location that fits your supply pipe.

4

Before installing the new spout and diverter, wipe the threads on the end of the supply pipe with a rag. Wrap the threads with two or three layers of thread-seal tape. Use silicone caulk to seal around the supply pipe where it enters the wall, if necessary.

5

Slide the new spout over the supply pipe and tighten the setscrew to secure it. If your spout screws on, slide it over the pipe and turn it clockwise with your hand.

6

Wrap masking tape around the teeth on a pair of tongue-and-groove pliers to protect the new spout. Use the pliers to tighten the spout to the pipe. Do not over-tighten the spout as you could damage the wall and the pipe.

Things You Will Need

• Towel
• Hex key set
• Heavy-duty screwdriver
• Tape measure
• Rag
• Thread-seal tape
• Silicone caulk
• Masking tape
• Tongue-and-groove pliers

How to Retile a Bathroom Wall | Home Guides

Read article : How to Retile a Bathroom Wall | Home Guides

varying tile colors." title="Liquidlibrary/liquidlibrary/Getty Images" />

Add interest to grid-style pattern tiles by varying tile colors.

Updating the look of your bathroom does not have to be a daunting complete remodel. Remove old tiles and replace them with new tiles, avoiding the demolition involved with tearing down whole walls. It requires a little more effort to remove just the tiles, but that effort saves you thousands on replacing drywall or cement backer board and you will not have to worry about damaging electrical wires or plumbing behind the wall. No previous tiling experience is needed, but you will need an alternate place to bathe for a few days.

Cover the bathroom floor, vanity cabinet, bathtub and toilet with plastic sheeting. Tape down the sheeting so that it does not move while you work. If removing tile behind the toilet, take out the toilet and set it in the bathtub.

Score grout and caulk joints with a utility knife. Insert a chisel behind one tile and hammer the end of it until the tile pops off the wall. Continue popping tiles off the wall in this manner until you have removed all tiles.

Scrape the wall with the flat side of the trowel to remove all the old thinset. Drag the trowel along the wall until no dried thinset remains.

Repair damaged areas by replacing drywall. Fill in small holes, dips or uneven areas with drywall compound. Leave the compound to dry according to the manufacturer's specifications.

Use a chalk line tool to mark lines for the tile installation. Mark a line at the intended height of the tiles if you are not covering the entire wall. Mark a line along the vertical centers of each wall, then mark a line on each wall the height of one tile up from the floor. These lines serve as guides during installation and help you keep the tiles straight.

Mix a fresh batch of thinset, about as much as you can use in 30 minutes. Stir in a latex additive and continue mixing until the thinset is the consistency of peanut butter. Use a paddle mixer attachment on an electric drill for faster mixing.

Lift a dollop of thinset with the trowel and spread it over a 3-foot-square section of the wall along the bottom at the horizontal center chalk line of one wall. Spread the thinset the same thickness as the tiles. For example, if your tiles are 1/4-inch thick, then spread the thinset 1/4-inch thick. Rake the notched edge of the trowel through the thinset to create furrows.

Set the first tile into the thinset immediately to the left of the horizontal chalk line. Line up the tile with the both chalk lines. Press the tile into the wall gently to set it. Install the second tile immediately to the right of the chalk line in the same manner, then insert spacers between the two tiles to maintain even spacing.

Hold a level across the surface of the tiles to verify that they are even. If uneven, tap the tiles with a rubber mallet to level them.

Install one more tile to the left and right of those two tiles, inserting spacers between each one and then checking to make sure all tiles are level. Continue installing tiles in this manner until you have reached both ends of the wall. Start a second row, tiling in the same manner and inserting spacers below and between the tiles for proper spacing.

Measure perimeter tiles by holding them up to the wall so that one side touches the end of the wall and the other side overlaps the last fill tile installed on the row. Insert two spacers between the tile and the wall. Mark the tile where it overlaps and cut along that line with a wet saw.

Measure tiles to fit around fixtures in the same manner, then nip the excess tile away to create curves or L-shaped cuts. For circular cuts in the middle of the tile, cover the approximate area with masking tape and mark the hole on the tile by holding it up to the fixture and tracing around it. Cut the hole 1/4-inch wider than your traced mark using a tile cutting bit attached to a drill. Remove the masking tape. Install cut tiles just as you did the full-sized tiles.

Continue installing rows in this manner until you have one wall complete. Cut the perimeter tiles for each row as you come to them. Your wall is not perfectly straight all the way up and cutting them all at once results in excess waste.

Leave the thinset to cure for 24 hours. Avoid showering, bathing or splashing water on the wall during this time. Leave the plastic sheeting in place.

Remove the spacers and discard. Prepare a bucket of fresh water and drop the sponge into it. Mix a batch of grout according to the manufacturer's instructions.

Lift a dollop of grout with the rubber grout float. Hold the float at a 45-degree angle to the tiles and drag it diagonally across the gaps between the tiles. Fill in the gaps around one tile and wipe the surface of that tile with the damp sponge. Avoid grouting at the wall corners, immediately around bathroom fixtures and between the bathtub or shower and the start of the tiles.

Continue grouting tiles in this manner for 20 minutes, then change the water in the sponge bucket and wipe down all the tiles you grouted again. This removes any haze before it dries on the tiles. After removing the haze, continue grouting and wiping tiles for 20 more minutes, then repeat this process.

Leave the grout to cure for 24 hours. Once cured, caulk between the tiles and bathtub or shower, around bathroom fixtures and at the corners between walls. Remove the plastic sheeting and masking tape. Leave the caulk to cure according to the manufacturer's instructions.

Things You Will Need

• Plastic sheeting
• Masking tape
• Utilitiy knife
• Chisel
• Hammer
• Notched trowel
• Drywall compound
• Chalk line tool
• Thinset
• Paddle mixer attachment
• Drill
• Spacers
• Level
• Wet saw
• Tile nippers
• Tile cutting bit
• 5-gallon bucket
• Sponge
• Rubber grout float
• Water-resistant silicone caulk

Tips

• Use your finger to pack grout into areas where the float will not fit.
• Buff off dried-on grout haze with a clean, dry sponge.
• Cut out sections of the wall instead of removing individual tiles if you intend to replace the wall behind the tiles as well.

How to Disconnect a Shower Pan | Home Guides

Read article : How to Disconnect a Shower Pan | Home Guides

Common in subdivisions, plastic shower pans are designed for do-it-yourself installation. Although they are durable and quick to install, they don't last as long as, say, ceramic tile, and eventually cracks or other failures may require removal of the pan. A homeowner might also remove a plastic shower pan as part of a remodel of the bathroom. Regardless of the reasons, disconnecting a shower pan is merely a reverse of the installation procedure.

1

Remove the drain from the bottom of the pan. Use a screwdriver to remove the drain cover to access the tightening mechanism/adapter ring within the pan’s drain area that connects the pan to the drain pipe. If you have a one-piece drain, insert the screwdriver into a slot in the drain cover, apply leverage and spin it counterclockwise to loosen and remove it. Tap it with the hammer as necessary.

2

Place a screwdriver against the tightening mechanism/adapter ring inside of the drain area of the shower pan and tap it gently with the hammer in a counterclockwise direction to loosen it if you have a shower pan with a drain cover and separate tightening mechanism. Repeat the tapping as necessary until you can unscrew it by hand.

How to Choose a Shower Curtain Rod | Home Guides

Read article : How to Choose a Shower Curtain Rod | Home Guides

The right shower curtain rod can enhance your bathroom decor.

A shower curtain makes a big statement in your bathroom, but it is important to consider the shower curtain rod as well. Shower curtain rods are available in a variety of styles and materials, and finding the perfect rod for your bathroom depends on a number of factors.

Decor

Look for a shower curtain rod to complement your bathroom’s decor. Things like wall coverings and colors as well as fixture styles and finishes should play into your decision. The pattern, style and material of the shower curtain you will be hanging from the rod is a big consideration and so are the types and colors of towels, bathmat and rugs.

Materials

Shower curtain rods can be both utilitarian and aesthetically pleasing. They are manufactured to be strong enough to hold up a shower curtain as well as damp towels hung over them to dry and they come in a variety of materials to enhance your bathroom. Most shower curtain rods are made of either plastic or metal. Shower curtain rods made of wood are also an option. A plastic rod that complements your bathroom style is a good way to enhance the room’s decor. Plastic rods come in many colors and are reasonably priced. Their only drawback is that they are not as durable as metal rods. A chrome rod works well with chrome light fixtures, faucets and towel bars and gives the room a modern touch. A shower curtain rod with a brass finish will work well in an Old World-influenced room while one of wood would be a good choice for a country or primitive style bathroom.

Shapes

If you would like more room in the shower, consider a rod that curves outward. A shower above a claw foot tub calls for a circular rod while a corner shower requires one that is L-shaped. Measure the area to be sure you buy a rod that is the correct size. Most shower curtain rods are adjustable, but keep in mind that you can make a large rod smaller but it is difficult to make a rod that is too small larger.

Wall Type

Consider the material of the wall where you will hang your shower curtain. For example, if your tub or shower surround is tile, a spring or tension rod that expands by twisting and adheres to the wall with friction is a good choice because you don’t need to drill into the wall to install it.

Freestanding Shower Problems | Home Guides

Read article : Freestanding Shower Problems | Home Guides

A freestanding shower is a separate unit from the bathtub, and includes a shower unit only. Most freestanding showers are sold as prefabricated units, ready to be placed in your bathroom.

Water, Water Everywhere

Removing a bathtub and installing a freestanding shower can reduce the resale value of your home, especially if there are no other bathtubs in the house. A poor quality freestanding shower unit may develop leaks over time, either at the panel seams or in the pan at the bottom. Poorly built doors pull away from the hinges over time and not only allow water to escape, but make the shower look old and worn. In a small bathroom, swinging doors on freestanding showers can get in the way. Shower curtains solve this problem, but can let water splash out onto the floor if not used properly, and can get pulled into the shower by updrafts created by hot water during use.

How to Convert a Dual Valve to a Single Mixer Shower Fixture | Home Guides

Read article : How to Convert a Dual Valve to a Single Mixer Shower Fixture | Home Guides

Converting to a single-mixer shower valve can be done without a major remodel of the bath.

A two-handle shower faucet is installed through two small holes in the shower wall, and a single-lever faucet requires a single larger hole in the shower wall. When replacing a two-valve faucet with a single-mixer faucet, you are left with the challenge of the two existing holes from the old faucet. You will need to repair the wall to cover the two holes from the old faucet or use a repair escutcheon plate to cover all three holes.

Turn off the water supply to the shower faucet; this may require turning off all the water to the house. Remove the handles from the dual-valve faucet. Remove the escutcheon plates from behind the faucet handles. Remove the shower head by turning it counterclockwise.

Remove the access panel on the back side of the shower behind the faucet area. If an access panel doesn't exist, open the wall on the back side of the shower by cutting the drywall with a utility knife. Open the wall directly behind the existing shower faucet. Make the hole at least 12 inches square; you can increase the size later if needed for more working space. Locate the water pipes that supply the shower faucet.

Disconnect the pipes from the two-valve faucet. If the pipes are galvanized steel, unscrew the union nuts that join the faucet and pipes. If the pipes are copper, use a copper tubing cutter to cut the pipes about 6 to 12 inches away from the faucet. If the pipes are plastic, use plastic pipe cutting snips or a hack saw. Do the same with the pipe that supplies the shower head. Remove the faucet from the wall.

Attach short pieces of new pipe, 6 to 12 inches long, to the new faucet. Use the type of pipe your new faucet requires. If it's copper, you will need to solder the pieces into the faucet. If it has threaded connections, you can use male adapters that will transition to the type of pipe you want to use -- copper; chlorinated polyvinyl chloride plastic, or CPVC; or PEX, a flexible type of plastic tubing. Some faucets will have a tub spout port. Plug this port by installing a 3- to 6-inch piece of pipe with a cap on the end.

Place a mark on the front of the shower wall where the new faucet will be centered. This location should be directly between the two existing holes of the old dual-valve faucet. Check the installation specifications that come with the faucet for the proper size of hole necessary for the new faucet to fit through the wall; it should be about a 5-inch diameter hole. Use a power drill and hole saw to drill the hole.

Place the new faucet in the hole that you drilled. Hang the new faucet securely in place by nailing supporting pieces of wood braces between the framing studs and using plumbing support straps to attach the faucet and pipes to the wood braces. Instead of wood you can use metal support braces specially manufactured to support plumbing pipes.

Attach the short pieces of pipe from the faucet to the existing hot and cold water supply pipes using couplings. If joining two types of pipe, such as steel and copper, use manufactured transition fittings designed to attach the two different types of pipe. Attach the shower head pipe to the faucet.

Install the repair escutcheon plate on the faucet if you're using one. Install the new face plate to will help hold the repair escutcheon in place. Install the faucet handle and the shower head using plumber's tape on any threaded connections. Place a small bead of latex caulk around the outer edge of the escutcheon plates to prevent water leakage.

Turn on the water to the faucet. Check for leaks in new pipe connections and tighten or repair them if necessary. Repair the shower wall if you're not using a repair escutcheon plate. Replace the wall access panel or repair the wall opening on the backside of the shower.

Things You Will Need

• Utility knife
• Phillips screwdriver
• Flat-head screwdriver
• Pipe wrench
• Hack saw
• Copper tubing cutters
• Plastic pipe cutting snips
• Torch
• Tape measure
• PEX crimping tool
• Power drill
• Hole saw
• Conversion shower faucet cover plate
• Plumber's tape
• Copper pipe
• PEX pipe
• Pipe fittings
• Solder
• Flux
• Latex caulk
• Wood boards for bracing
• Manufactured plumbing support braces
• Steel to copper transition fittings

Tip

• If attaching copper pipes to the new faucet by soldering, first remove the plastic cartridge from the new faucet to prevent damaging it by excessive heat.

Warning

• Be sure to wear protective eyewear and gloves while working.

How to Decorate a Long and Narrow Bathroom | Home Guides

Read article : How to Decorate a Long and Narrow Bathroom | Home Guides

clear glass shower door helps a bathroom feel larger." title="Thomas Northcut/Photodisc/Getty Images" />

A clear glass shower door helps a bathroom feel larger.

A long, narrow bathroom can feel small and closed in. Even if you can't change the actual size of the room, you can make it feel more open and spacious. Removing the clutter and keeping accessories to a minimum makes a small bathroom look and feel larger. The colors, textures and patterns used to decorate a bathroom can create the visual illusion of a wider, more balanced space.

Walls and Ceiling

Light paint colors such as beige, white, gray or pastels tend to make a room appear larger. Apply a paint color that's two or three shades darker than the wall color to the short wall at the end of a long, narrow bathroom. The darker color makes the end wall appear to recede, creating the illusion of width. Hang a piece of artwork on the short wall to provide a focal point. Make a ceiling appear more lofty by painting it white. Another option is to choose a ceiling color that's two or three shades lighter than the longer wall color. Hanging a single large mirror on a wall opposite a window provides a scenic reflection to help expand the room. Avoid hanging a number of small mirrors around the room. This can create confusing spatial illusions.

Windows and Floors

Natural light streaming through the windows helps brighten a long, narrow bathroom, making it feel more open. Remove existing window coverings and clean the windows to allow a sparkling view to the outdoors. Avoid window treatments designed to hang outside the window frame, such as curtains or draperies; they take up additional wall space to make a narrow bathroom look even thinner. Window film is ideal for providing an unobstructed view to the outdoors, protecting against ultraviolet rays and providing privacy. It also doesn't take up any physical space in your long, narrow bathroom. White, wooden blinds with 2-inch slats are designed to fit snugly inside a window frame while allowing you to alter the direction and amount of natural light with the twist of a wand. Natural-woven bamboo shades can be custom fitted to hang inside your window frame to add a natural element to your small bathroom.

Vanity and Shower

Painting your vanity the same color as your walls helps blend the two to create a uniform, wider appearance. Add shiny chrome handles and knobs to vanity drawers and cabinet doors to add a sparkling touch to the space. Clear glass shower doors provide a more spacious feel to a long, narrow bathroom by directing your eyes through the glass and into the shower area. When your bathroom requires a shower curtain, choose a lightweight white, neutral or pastel fabric curtain to avoid a visually heavy look that dark-colored, thick shower curtains can convey. Pull a shower curtain to one side to open up the shower area when it's not in use.

Lights and Accessories

Providing adequate lighting in a long, narrow bathroom is essential to avoid a dismal, dark space. Installing a skylight or additional windows help bring the outdoors inside a small bathroom. Recessed ceiling lights and track lighting provide much-needed light without taking up wall space that may make a bathroom appear even narrower. Decorative wall sconces above a vanity supply necessary light for grooming activities without protruding into a narrow bathroom walkway. Keep accessories to a bare minimum -- such as a single vase of flowers or potted greenery on top of your countertop, a trash can tucked under the vanity or in a corner, and folded towels stacked neatly on built-in shelves or in a wicker basket. Placing decorative items on the floor in a narrow bathroom clutters up the physical walkway and visual space.