30 Ways To Upgrade Your Apartment On A Budget

Read article : 30 Ways To Upgrade Your Apartment On A Budget

So you’ve just moved into your first apartment on your own (or with roommates), and you seem to be baffled by how expensive everything is! Well don’t worry, because there are ways to upgrade your apartment on a budget. Sure, you pay electricity and internet.. and water..and heat. There is some serious budgeting needed in order to live comfortably. I also understand that you want to know more than just “put baking soda in your fridge to avoid it from stinking up.” So here are 15 great ways to upgrade your apartment while on a budget! Good luck!

*This article is in collaboration with Kayla Nannariello.

1. Use Command Hooks!

The most standard tool among students! Command hooks have a universal purpose, to make life easier. I have command hooks for clothes, I have command hooks for lights, I have command hooks for my whiteboard and anything else I want to hang. they can hold a lot of weight depending on the size of hooks you get. I have hooks for my keys, my umbrella, any dangling wires and even my night light! These little life and space savers not only make it easier to find stuff, but also make your place look so much cleaner and organized…something you definitely want to see when you come back from a long day of classes. This way you will have a place to put your keys instead of throwing them around and regretting it the next morning when you’re rushing around.

2. Use the free cups and bottles you get around campus fairs (housing fair, clubs and organizations fairs, career fair.)

Don’t just use them to drink; use them as pen stands, stands to hold your dish washing brush, fill them up with change that you don’t want in your wallet. I covered my cup with three layers of paper on the top and made a slit through the center and there you have it, your college piggy bank (you’re going to need that money for laundry and err..)
The bottles particularly, can be used to store pretty much anything. One of my bottles is filled up with paper clips. The other is in the fridge so I have cold water when I need it, and another one makes for an easy lime-juice dispenser.

3. Don’t hold back, get a huge trash can.

This is by far the most convenient thing I have done for myself in the apartment. We bought a 55 gallon trash can from Walmart and now we save on trash bags all the time…and the best part? We don’t have to take it out very often. If you want to budget and you’re lazy, this is a win-win. Moreover, these giant cans have a cover, so they don’t stink up the apartment even if you decide to dump food that’s days old because, come on, let’s face it, every college student forgets to throw away old food for a long time because they actually forgot or they’re just procrastinating.

4. Keep those twist ties you get with almost anything you buy.

You know when you buy a loaf of bread or something that has wound up wire over it? And you decide to throw it away? Don’t. These things can come in handy at any time in your apartment. Leaving for summer and don’t want to let the cutlery just lie around? Use this to wind up the spoons together and store them away. Phone charger too long for where its plugged in? Wind it up a bit and hold it together with this! Tape can make it sticky, very easily. Opened a pack of Doritos and want to save it for later? Don’t leave it open, use these!

5. Use an old or cheap blanket as a window blind.

I’m not kidding, some blankets at Walmart go for less than $8, and if you are renting an apartment, it’s highly unlikely that it will come with fancy blackout curtains. Get a blanket, and use command hooks to hang it up right around your window. Put two loops at the bottom corners so you can roll it up and hook it to the hooks on the top to make a blind, there you go! Cheap and easy blackout curtains to help you sleep in after that rough Friday night.

6. Use over-the-door hooks.

You don’t want to have to deal with putting 5 command hooks up when you know you need them there, and you want something that you can load up more than just the capacity of those sticky magicians. They’re cheap and there are so many options on Amazon. There are no restrictions for these and you do not need to do any work, just stick the hooks over the door so they hold on and hang away! In any case, most rental apartments will not allow you to drill holes and screw in hooks and this is the only alternative to get hooks as strong.

7. Get LED strip lighting for your apartment.

Ever get that feeling when you don’t want any lights on but also want to be able to see and move around your room? Here’s your solution, and it’s pretty cool. These lights go for anywhere between $15-$25, and they come in lengths up to 32 feet! You simply put them across the top of your room’s walls with command hooks (of course) or if the wall is flat enough then you can even use their built-in adhesive. They have a remote, and they are LEDs, so they’re barely using any electricity. They have brightness control and color changing capabilities for when you’re throwing that Saturday night party. It’s easy, cheap and will impress any guests. They can set the mood, become an ideal everyday light and even become party strobe lights.

8. When life gives you lemons, CLEAN!

You know how after you make a glass of lemonade, you throw out the squeezed lemon…right? Wrong. This is the perfect way to save yourself from over-spraying the kitchen with Febreze. Just throw that thing into the sink disposal, run it and run warm water as you do so. Crushed lemon will release a fresh aroma, much better than using any spray since it’s acidity will clean as well. Got a dirty or stinky microwave? Grab any microwavable mid-sized bowl and fill it halfway with water, cut a lemon in half and squeeze both halves only a little into the water, not all the way. Now dump them into the water and microwave for 3 minutes. Once it’s done, your microwave will smell fresh and will be much easier to clean!

9. Use a giant bowl of water to keep your room air from being too dry.

The weather gets dry and cold in the winter, which means we all start having dry hands, and feel really dehydrated. Our apartment heaters can be the culprit in this dry air problem. A simple solution is to take a large bowl, fill it with water and simply place it in your room. This works, and it works well. It will keep the air slightly humid and especially if you’re from a less cold region, you will be saved from terrible and painful dry skin. Save your money and don’t buy those heavy and space hogging humidifiers, do this instead!

10. Use Brita filters!

If you’re the kind that likes to drink bottled or filtered water, you’d be spending at least $4 a day or more than those who drink tap water. But what if I said you could drink filtered tap water? Look no further! If you don’t already know about Brita jugs and filters, you need to know. These things have filters built into them, so it’s as easy as filling up a jug by turning on the faucet. It even reminds you when to change a filter, and no its not every week, it’s around every 4 months.

11. Buy everything in bulk.

If you’re at Walmart and you love getting orange juice for that night, it is very likely that you will come back to get more. Instead, save yourself the trouble and the money…buy a giant jug of it, or even four jugs of it. Buying bigger packs saves more than you think, and you will have to make less trips, so there’s time and energy saved too! This applies to pretty much anything from frozen food to toilet paper. I would even recommend buying the large boxes of laundry detergent/pods. You’re not going to stop doing laundry, so you might as well stock up.

Using Amazon’s ‘dash buttons’ is a pretty neat way to be lazy too. Just press the button when you’re running low and there you have it, delivered supplies to your doorstep. They even have these things for Red bull and Gatorade cases, and they don’t cost anything extra. You get a discount on your first order that matches the amount you paid to get the button so that’s pretty neat and convenient.

12. Buy Windex, a lot of it.

This magical solution we all know is much more useful than you think it is. You can use it to clean counters, tables, wall stains, floor spills and pretty much anything that your apartment life can throw at you. Simply buy a refill after your first spray bottle. Fear not, Windex can even clean your stained bathroom mirror very easily so you can look good and feel fresh every morning!

13. Buy space-savers for literally everything.

I have one for snacks, one for stationery and one for cutlery. We also have one in the living room which helps when we simply leave our stuff out. There are sizes that fit on a table to keep small items and sizes that stand alone and can even be used as a bedside table or in my case, a place to keep the bowl of water so the air doesn’t get too dry!

14. Look into Mainstays products.

They make inexpensive household items such as the space-savers I mentioned. They also make furniture, so if you’re looking for a desk in your room, a chair, a comfortable chair to watch TV in, sheets, blankets and anything else you might need, they probably have it. Remember, most of these items are the cheapest when the semester starts and the large stores are having their sales. Most of my kitchen, including plates, cooking vessels and cutlery is from Mainstays, they have great deals and it’s definitely worth it.

15. Add some Throw Pillows!

Throw pillows are a great way to spruce up your apartment without spending too much     money. They come in millions of prints, so you’ll always be able to find ones that match your personal style and the look you’re going for!

16. Use decorative baskets as opposed to plastic storage bins.

Baskets are a great alternative to plastic storage bins. They act as decor but keep your things organized just as well! There are so many cute basket options out there whether you enjoy wired baskets, canvas, or woven ones and they come in all shapes and sizes to fit into whatever space you need!

17. Wall art makes a huge difference!

Dress up any boring drab walls you have in your apartment with some wall art. The possibilites here are endless! You can even buy just the prints or download prints from sites like Etsy and add your own frame.

18. Add slipcovers to your furniture.

Do you have an old beat up couch and can’t afford to buy a new one? No worries, just buy a slipcover. Slipcovers are awesome because they come in so many different colors and designs, and you can switch them out whenever you want a new look!

19. Make your space more inviting with picture frames.

Another cheap way to spruce up your apartment is to buy cute picture frames and fill them with your favorite pictures! It’s a great way to add a personal touch to your apartment. This will make your living space feel more cozy just like the home you grew up in!

20.  A rug.

If you don’t like your flooring, area rugs are a great way to cover it up. They come in so many different sizes that you’re bound to find one that will fit your space. A good rug can do wonders for an apartment by covering up any messed up flooring and making your apartment look bigger than it actually is.

21. Set out some candles.

They’re cheap, they smell good, and they act as decor. Candles have a great way of turning any drab apartment into an inviting atmosphere!

22. Decorate with artificial succulents.

Fake succulents are great because they require no maintenance. And unlike real plants, you don’t have to worry about replacing it when it dies.

23. Your table lamps can make a statement.

Instead of buying simple lamps for your end tables, get more interesting ones. Not only will they dress up the room, but they are bound to be a conversation starter.

24. Buy simple furniture.

When buying furniture, don’t buy anything crazy. Go for things that are neutral colors and won’t go out of style and can look timeless in any setting.

25. Choose the right comforter.

Your comforter can make or a break a room, and unless you are absolutely in love with a printed comforter, I wouldn’t buy it. Instead, go for a solid color, preferably a neutral. This way you aren’t limited on how you decorate your room. The solid color also gives the room a very clean feel.

26. Opt for placemats.

Placemats are a super cheap way to make your dining room or kitchen look instantly more put together.

27. Get a shower curtain.

Shower curtains take up the most room in a bathroom, so make sure yours is something that people won’t mind looking at. Resist the crazy printed ones and instead, go for a simple print that will dress up your bathroom and make it seem brighter and bigger.

28. Add a good throw blanket into the mix.

Throw blankets are great because they give a cozy feel to the room and it’s always great to have a blanket nearby, but they also work as decoration.

29. Add some mirrors to your walls.

Mirrors are amazing because they make the room look bigger and they tend to draw in people’s attention.

30. If you ever need anything for your apartment, always look it up Amazon first.

When I was setting up my apartment, there were many things I found that I didn’t even know would help me so much! For example, many of my sockets have a switch extension, so I can turn them off while I am not using them, without unplugging them. This is especially useful for behind the bed and under the desk sockets, since unplugging requires a lot of effort and plugging it back in is even worse…you might even have to move the entire piece of furniture. Power strips, USB adapters and anything you can think off, it’s probably cheaper on Amazon.

Do you have any other good ideas on ways to upgrade your apartment on a budget? Share in the comments below!

*This is a sponsored post. All opinions are my own.

Featured Image source:http: //homelk.com/apartments/cute-college-apartment-bedrooms-for-girls

Tags: apartment essentials, apartment hacks, things you need for your first apartment, upgrade your apartment, upgrade your apartment on a budget, ways to upgrade apartment

How to Lay Tile: Install a Ceramic Tile Floor In the Bathroom

Read article : How to Lay Tile: Install a Ceramic Tile Floor In the Bathroom

Cover up an old floor

Whether you’re replacing an old shabby floor or installing a new one, you can’t beat ceramic or stone tile for durability and appearance. When laid properly, it’s virtually a forever floor that requires almost no care and maintenance. And you can select materials from a vast array of colors and textures. We’ll cover how to lay tile in a few steps.

What’s equally attractive is that you can lay a first-class tile floor yourself, often in one weekend, and save the $500 to $1,500 cost of hiring a pro.

The key to keeping the job simple is to cover the old vinyl or other flooring with a new thin underlayment that gives you a fresh, clean start. No messy tear-out and repair. In this article, we’ll demonstrate how to install a thin “backer board” over the old floor. Then we’ll cover tile-setting techniques, from layout and cutting to grout and cleanup.

This is a two-day project for most bathrooms, even if you don’t have any previous tile experience. If you’re comfortable using basic hand tools and have the patience to align tiles just right, you can handle this job. The entire cost of this project for a typical bath ranges from $300 to $600.

Estimating the Cost of a Tile Project

The tile itself will be your biggest cost, so start by measuring the square footage of the floor. Then add 10 percent for cutting waste. If you choose a more complex layout than the simple grid pattern we used, your waste will be greater. Most tile sells for $5 to $15 per square foot, but you can spend as little as $3 or more than $50. If you have to install backer board, add $2 per square foot to the cost of the tile. Other materials will cost about $90, regardless of bathroom size. The tile tools you’ll need (including a tile cutter) will total $60 to $80.

Assess your floor

The success of any tile job depends on a solid base, that is, a floor that flexes very little as you walk across it. If you have a concrete subfloor, this isn’t an issue. You can lay tile directly over the existing vinyl as long as it’s well adhered.

If possible, avoid tearing out vinyl flooring. Leaving it in place saves time, of course, but it also reduces asbestos hazard concerns. Asbestos was used in sheet vinyl and vinyl tile until the mid-1980s. By leaving the vinyl undisturbed, you won’t risk sending asbestos fibers into the air.

If you have a wood subfloor, there’s a good chance that you’ll have to install backer board over your vinyl to make the floor thicker and stiff enough for tile. The easiest way to see flooring thickness is to pull off a floor register. Otherwise look for plumbing passageways through the floor. As a last resort, drill through the floor with a 1-in. or larger spade bit (your new floor will cover the hole later). To prevent asbestos dust from becoming airborne, mist the bit with a spray bottle as you drill. In addition to floor thickness, you’ll need to determine joist spacing. If there’s an unfinished basement or crawlspace below the floor, simply measure the spacing. If there’s a ceiling, probe for joists with a drill bit.

If the joists are spaced 16 in. apart, the layers of structural flooring beneath the vinyl should add up to at least 1-1/8 in. With joists every 24 in., you need 1-1/2 in. If your floor is too thin for tile, add a thicker layer of tile backer board. Our floor required 1/4-in.-thick backer. Yours might need 1/2-in. backer to reach the minimum thickness. If your floor is already thick enough, you can simply prep the vinyl floor (Photos 1 – 4) and skip the backer installation (Photos 5 – 8). Then tile directly over the vinyl, following the same steps we used over backer board.

Regardless of the type of subfloor, there are two situations where you can’t leave vinyl in place: First, if large areas of the vinyl are loose, don’t set tile or backer over it. Small loose spots are acceptable and easy to deal with (Photo 4).

Second, “cushioned” sheet vinyl must be removed before you can set tile. Cushioned vinyl has a foam backing that makes it noticeably thicker and softer than standard vinyl flooring. It’s too spongy to support tile or backer board. Before removing it, call your local health department for instructions on how to check for asbestos and proper procedures if asbestos is present.

Gather Advice While You Shop

Home centers carry everything you need for this project, but begin shopping at a tile store, where you’re more likely to get expert advice. Make a quick sketch of your floor plan and jot down all the dimensions. Also take a photo of the floor at the doorway. This will help the tile store staff recommend a “transition” to neatly join the tile to the hallway flooring. Transitions come in different styles to suit any situation.

When you choose the tile itself, ask if it requires any special installation steps. Some tile, for example, should be coated with grout release before grouting. Also ask about cutting techniques for the tile. You’ll use sanded grout for the floor. Ask if sanded caulk is available in a color that matches your grout for the floor/tub and floor/wall tile joints.

Prepare the room

First, get the toilet out of your way. Stuff a rag in the hole to block sewer gases. If your home only has one toilet, you can leave it in place until you install the backer board. Keep a supply of wax rings on hand if you plan to reinstall the toilet at the end of each day.

If you expect to keep your vanity for many years to come, leave it in place and tile around it. But if you think you might replace it, remove it now. When the job’s done, you can reinstall the old vanity or put in a new one. Having the vanity out of the way gives you more workspace, and you won’t have to cut backer board and tiles to fit around it. This also eliminates the floor repair problem if you install a smaller vanity or pedestal sink in the future.

Pull off the baseboard or plan to add base shoe molding. This leads to a neater-looking job because the edges of the tile will be covered later—jagged cuts and slight measuring mistakes are hidden. If your baseboard has base shoe molding, remove only the base shoe. Backer board and tile will raise your floor 3/4 in. or more. So you’ll have to remove and undercut the door. To mark the door for cutting, stack backer board, tile and two layers of cardboard on the floor (see Photo 3). Mark the door 1/2 in. above the stack, remove the door and cut off the bottom.

Scrub, screw and patch the floor

Photo 1: Scrub the floor with stripper

Remove the baseboard and toilet. Using an abrasive pad, scrub the floor hard with water mixed with vinyl floor stripper.

Photo 2: Drive screws into the floor joists

Mark the floor joists with chalk lines and drive 2-1/2-in. screws every 8 in. Don’t leave any screw heads protruding.

Photo 3: Cut the door trim to accommodate tile

Undercut door trim using a jamb saw or handsaw. A piece of backer board, tile and two layers of cardboard raise the saw to the correct height above the floor.

Photo 4: Fill low spots with thin-set

Cut out any loose sections of vinyl with a utility knife. Fill the void with thin-set using the flat edge of a notched trowel.

Scrub the floor with a vinyl floor stripper following the manufacturer’s instructions. The stripper will dissolve wax and other residue. Scrub hard with an abrasive scouring pad (Photo 1). The tiny scratches left by scrubbing help the thin-set bond better.

Next, drive screws through the floor into the joists (Photo 2). This ensures that the subfloor and underlayment are securely fastened. If there’s an unfinished basement below the floor, locating the joists is easy: Go to the basement and drill a couple of 1/4-in. holes up through the floor next to a joist. If you can’t locate the joists from below, pick a spot near one wall and drill a hole. If the bit breaks through into hollow space, move over 1 in. and drill another hole. Keep going until you hit a joist. Then go to the opposite wall and find the other end of the joist. Measure at intervals of 16 or 24 in. from the first joist to locate the others.

While you’re driving screws, look for any spots where the vinyl has loosened from the floor. Cut out loose spots and fill them (Photo 4). If there are any copper pipes that pass through the floor, wrap them with duct tape at floor level. Cement-based thin-set and grout can corrode copper.

Install backer board

Photo 5: Install backer board over the floor

Cover the floor with backer board. Cut inside corners, circles and curves with a drywall saw. Space pieces 1/8 in. apart and hold each one in place with two temporary screws.

Drywall saw

Use a drywall saw to cut corners, circles and curves in backer board.

Photo 6: Score and snap the backer board

Make straight cuts with a scoring knife. Make three or four scoring passes, then snap the backer over a 2×4. When all the pieces have been laid out, label them and set them aside.

Scoring knife

Use a scoring knife to score the backer board.

Photo 7: Trowel on the thin-set

Comb out a bed of thin-set just large enough for each piece of backer board using a 1/4-in. notched trowel held at a 45-degree angle. Screw the backer down before spreading thin-set for the next piece.

Notched trowel

Use a 1/4-in. notched trowel to spread the thin-set over the floor.

Photo 8: Cover the joints

Press adhesive-backed mesh tape over the joints and skim over the tape with thin-set. When the thin-set is firm but not fully hardened, scrape away any ridges with a putty knife.

The backer board is fastened with a combination of screws and thin-set adhesive. Cut and lay out all the pieces before you mix the thin-set (Photos 5 and 6). You can run the sheets in any direction, but be sure to stagger the joints so you never have four corners meeting at one point. Leave a 1/8-in. space between the sheets and along the vanity, tub or shower. The gap along walls must be at least 1/8 in. wide, but a wider gap (about 1/2 in.) makes the panels easier to set in place.

After cutting and fitting, label the location of each one and set them all aside. Vacuum the floor and have your drill and screws ready to go before you mix the thin-set. Read the thin-set’s label. Spread the thin-set with a 1/4-in. notched trowel. Comb in one direction so air can escape when you embed the backer (Photo 7). Drive screws every 6 in. around the perimeter of each piece and every 8 in. “in the field” (across the face of the panel). If the leftover thin-set is still workable, you can immediately embed mesh tape over the joints (Photo 8).

If the thin-set has become too stiff or chunky, mix a new batch. Use “alkali-resistant” tape that’s meant for backer board. While the tape coat of thin-set hardens, run a putty knife over all the screw heads to scrape off the “mushroom” bulges around screws. Drive in any protruding screw heads you come across.

CAUTION!

Cement products like thin-set and grout draw moisture from skin and can even cause burns that require medical attention. While most pros work bare-handed, wear gloves if you have any special sensitivity. Also wear eye protection while mixing thin-set and grout.

Figure A: Ceramic Tile Over Vinyl

Everything you need for this project is available at home centers. Most of what you need is also available at tile stores.

Careful layout pays off

Photo 9: Test your layout to avoid small pieces along the walls

Dry-lay tile to determine the best layout. Start with centered rows, leaving equal spaces at walls. Then reposition rows until you find the optimal layout.

Photo 10: Attach guide boards to guide the layout

Screw guide boards to the floor following your chosen layout. Position the guides so you can lay all the field tiles without moving the guides. Make sure the guides are at right angles by measuring out a 3-4-5 triangle.

Too often, tile novices simply start setting tile in a corner and continue along two walls until the floor is covered. Sometimes they get lucky and the floor looks good. But more often this method leads to trouble:

They end up with awkward-looking, thin slivers of tile along a prominent wall or at the doorway. And the tile looks even worse when walls are badly out of square or crooked—a straight grout line running too close to a wall emphasizes the wall’s imperfections.

Whether you’re laying a simple grid pattern like we show here, or a diagonal pattern with a border, the best tile layout usually calls for centering full tiles between walls so the partial tiles along the edges will end up all the same size. Don’t rely on your tape measure and mental arithmetic. Rip open a carton of tile, grab a handful of spacers and experiment with your layout on the floor.

To begin, center rows of tile between walls so you have equal spaces along walls that face each other (Photo 9). Set the two rows parallel to the two most prominent walls. Then make adjustments, trying to achieve these three goals:

• Use full tiles at doorways and along the bathtub or shower. These are usually the only places where the edges of the floor aren’t covered by baseboard. If you use full tiles in these exposed spots, you don’t have to worry about making smooth, perfect cuts.
• Avoid narrow tiles along walls. Ideally, you’ll end up with tiles cut to half size or larger. Avoid cutting tile to widths less than 2 in.
• Minimize cutting and try to avoid difficult cuts. For example: Cutting tile to an L-shape to fit around an outside corner is especially difficult when one arm of the “L” is less than 2 in. wide. The arm tends to break off as you cut.

Chances are, your layout won’t meet all these goals. Because the shower stall was the focal point in our bathroom, we made it our No. 1 layout priority. We chose to use full tiles in front of the shower. That left us with 3-in.-wide tiles along the opposite wall, which was less prominent. We also chose to center the tile rows on the shower; that meant we had to use cut tiles at the doorway.

Once you determine a layout, establish lines to guide your tile positioning. The usual method is to snap chalk lines on the floor. But chalk lines are hard to see after you’ve spread thin-set, and one row of tile may slip as you set the next row. Here’s a more reliable guide: Choose straight boards a foot shorter than the length and width of the room. Tape one edge of each board so thin-set won’t stick to them.

Then screw the boards to the floor at a right angle to form a guide that eliminates guesswork and shifting (Photo 10).

Video: Create Your Own Floor Tile Layout

Planning the layout for a tile project is usually the hardest and most time- consuming step. Watch this video to learn how a pro does it. You’ll see how to snap chalk lines and make sure they are perfectly square. Plus, you’ll learn how to avoid unsightly narrow, difficult-to-cut tiles along a wall. Don’t start a tile project until you’ve watch this video!

Set the tile (finally!)

Photo 11: Set the full tiles

Comb out a few square feet of thin-set and set tile against the guides. Continue until all the full tiles are in place. Tip: Watch for squeeze-out between tiles and rake it out with tile spacers.

Spacers detail

Keep the gaps between tiles even by using spacers

Photo 12: Spread thin-set and set the perimeter tiles.

Cut and set the perimeter tiles after the thin-set beneath the full tiles has hardened. In spaces too narrow for your trowel, comb thin-set onto the backs of tiles.

It’s usually easiest—and most efficient—to set tile in two phases: First set all the full “field” tiles (Photo 11). Then, when the thin-set has hardened for several hours, cut all the perimeter tiles and set them (Photo 12). Here are some tips for both phases of the job:

• The trowel you use for setting tile may be different from the one you used to embed the backer. The thin-set label tells you which notch size to use relative to tile size.
• Dampen the backer with a sponge just before applying thin-set. This keeps the thin-set from drying out too quickly.
• Comb the thin-set in one direction so air pockets won’t be trapped under tile.
• Open three or four cartons and mix the tiles as you set them. Pattern and color vary slightly from one carton to the next.
• Don’t just set each tile into place; press down on the tile and wiggle it to embed it firmly in the thin-set.
• Watch for “tipped” corners. When you press a tile in place, it’s easy to tilt it slightly so that one corner stands higher or lower than neighboring tiles.
• When you complete a section of tile, inspect it before moving on. Make sure the tiles line up correctly and spacers are in place. Wipe any thin-set off the face of tiles with a damp sponge.
• When the thin-set becomes chunky or too stiff, throw it away and mix more. Never try to extend the life of thin-set or grout by adding water.
• Cut perimeter tile so that caulked joints (at tub) are the same width as grouted joints.

Prepare the floor for grout

Photo 13: Install an extension ring over the toilet flange

Remove the old screws from the toilet flange and apply a heavy bead of silicone caulk. Fasten the extension ring over the old flange with stainless steel or brass screws.

Photo 14: Install the transition strip

Glue the transition into place with construction adhesive. If carpet meets the transition, you may have to add a new tack strip.

Photo 15: Stuff backer rod along the wall

Push backer rod into joints that will be caulked later. The foam rod keeps grout out of joints. After grouting, pull out the rod and caulk the joints.

When all the tiles are in place and the thin-set has hardened, remove all the spacers. Next, raise the toilet flange by adding an extension ring or two (Photo 13). The extended flange should be flush with or higher than the surrounding tile.

When you grout, fill in between the flange and tile. That way, any future leak around the flange will show up on the bathroom floor instead of on the ceiling below. If you plan to use a glue-down transition as we did, this is the time to install it.

Here’s how we dealt with our transition: First, we removed the old metal strip that covered the carpet’s edge. Then we cut our transition strip to fit between the door jambs using a miter saw. Next, we added a tack strip to hold the carpet in place. Before we could glue the transition to the floor (Photo 14), we had to remove a thin strip of the old vinyl floor.

Grout is too brittle to handle the slight shifting movements that are normal in any room. Keep grout out of joints wherever the floor meets the tub, shower, vanity or walls (Photo 15).

Pack the joints with grout

Photo 16: Grout the joints

Work the grout back and forth across the floor, diagonal to the joints and holding the float at a 45-degree angle. Then scrape off the excess grout, holding the float almost upright.

The thin-set directions will tell you how soon you can grout the floor—usually 24 hours. Grouting isn’t complex. Just plop a couple of scoops of grout onto the floor in a corner, work the grout into joints (Photo 16) and scrape off the excess grout before moving to the next section. In addition:

• Mix the grout to a mashed-potatoes consistency. Adding extra liquid makes grout easier to work with but weakens it.
• Don’t just spread the grout over the joints; press hard to pack it into the joints. If you’re doing it right, your forearm will get a good workout.
• Whether you’re filling joints or scraping off excess grout, always push the float diagonally across the tiles.
• Scrape off the excess to leave tile as clean as you can. The less grout you leave on the tiles, the easier cleanup will be.
• When you’re done, cover the grout bucket with a plastic bag and set it in a cool place to slow the hardening process. During cleanup, you may find spots that need a little extra.

Grout cleanup

Photo 17: Clean the tiles

Wipe grout off the tile surface with a damp sponge. Wipe gently on the first pass so you don’t pull grout out of the joints. Rinse the sponge often.

Clean the surface of the tile when the grout is stiff enough to stay put in the joints but still soft enough to wipe off the tile surface. During hot, dry weather, grout can become difficult to wipe away in just 10 minutes, so get ready for cleanup before you even mix the grout. You’ll need two buckets of clean water, two sponges, a synthetic scouring pad and a dry rag.

As soon as you’re done grouting, go to the first section you grouted and wipe across a joint with a damp sponge. If the sponge pulls grout out of the joint, wait five minutes and try again. In cool, damp weather, the grout may stay too soft for an hour. When the grout is hard enough, gently wipe the tile with a damp sponge.

Rinse the sponge frequently as you wipe the entire floor (Photo 17). If you come across tough spots, scrub them with the scouring pad. Be careful where you put your feet and knees—don’t mar your perfect grout joints.

Immediately after the first pass, grab the second bucket of clean water and the fresh sponge and make a second, more thorough pass. Then, as the tile surface dries, wipe it with a dry terry cloth. The dry haze should buff off easily. If not, go for fresh water and sponge the floor again. If you can’t get rid of the haze, don’t panic. Products that remove haze are available wherever tile is sold.

Let the grout cure overnight before you caulk joints, set the toilet or reinstall baseboard. Grout sealer is a good precaution against staining: Some products can be applied 24 hours after grouting; others require a two- to three-week wait. If you have leftover tile or grout, keep them in case you have to make repairs in the future. Be sure to write down the brand, color and retailer of the tile.

How NOT to Save Money on a Tile Project

I’m a devout cheapskate, but when it comes to buying thin-set and grout, I grab the most expensive products on the shelf. More expensive thin-sets and grouts generally contain a higher proportion of the polymers that improve adhesion, durability and stain resistance.

In most situations, cheaper products would perform just fine. But if I can reduce the risks of loose tiles or cracked grout by spending an extra $30 on a typical bathroom project, I consider that a bargain.

Liquid additive is another smart investment. If the thin-set or grout label says you can mix it with water or an additive, use additive. These liquids (labeled “latex, ” “polymer” or “acrylic”) are meant to improve adhesion and stain resistance. But as a bonus, they produce a slick, creamy consistency. Thin-set combs out more smoothly, grout flows easily into joints, and both remain workable longer.

Also buy a mixer for your drill. Mixers come in various styles and sizes. Go easy on the trigger. If you run the drill at full speed, you can create millions of tiny air bubbles, which will weaken the mix.

Tile cutting tools

Tile cutter

A tile cutter is the fastest way to cut tile. Just push the handle forward and a small wheel scores the tile. Then push the handle down and the tile snaps in two. You can’t beat a tile cutter for convenience. It makes no mess and you can drag it around the room as you work. But a tile cutter has zero versatility. It makes straight cuts across the entire tile—no curves or corner cuts. Cutting 1 in. or less off a tile can be difficult or impossible. You can rent one at rental centers and some tile shops.

Wet saw

A wet saw cuts with a diamond blade while water cools the blade and eliminates dust. You can cut notches, trim off tiny slivers of tile, cut miters and even make curves. You’ll get clean cuts in any type of tile. But wet saws are messy. They spit water and raise a cloud of gritty mist. If you use one indoors, contain the mist with curtains of plastic film and cover nearby surfaces. You can buy a small wet saw like the one shown here or rent a professional model from a tile store or home or rental center. If you only have a few cuts that require a wet saw, call a tile store. Many make cuts for a small fee.

Angle grinder

An angle grinder equipped with a diamond blade can make straight cuts, curves and notches in any type of tile. Since all your cuts are freehand, this isn’t a precision tool, but you can grind away imperfections with the tip of the blade. Use a grinder only outside. Wear a dust mask and eye protection.

Nippers

Nippers are useful for rough curves and notches. They don’t cut tile, but bite out small chunks, leaving jagged edges.

Contour gauge

A contour gauge is a great tool for marking troublesome shapes on tile. Just press it against any odd-shaped surface (like the curved corner of a bathtub) and transfer the profile to tile.

Here are the tools that can cut your tile. Buy or rent the ones that make the most sense for your project.

In addition to the tools shown here, a carbide abrasive blade that fits in a jigsaw cuts slowly but leaves fairly clean cuts in softer types of ceramic tile and natural stone. A carbide abrasive hole saw cuts perfect holes for plumbing pipes and fixtures.

A rubbing stone is simply an abrasive block, similar to the wheel in a bench grinder. Use it to smooth sharp or slightly chipped cuts that will be exposed.

Additional Information

Required Tools for this Project

Have the necessary tools for this DIY project lined up before you start—you’ll save time and frustration.

You’ll also need these specialty tools for working with tile and backer board:
Scoring knife, Margin trowel, Tile cutter, 4-in. diamond blade, Drill mixer, Offset saw, Tile cutter, Nippers, Wet saw
You can also use an angle grinder for cutting tile.

Small Bathtub Designs Made For Ultimate Relaxation

Read article : Small Bathtub Designs Made For Ultimate Relaxation

A small bathtub is a nice alternative to a regular one and not only because it’d free up more space in the bathroom. These amazing soaking freestanding tubs are made for relaxation and, well, soaking. Besides you can easily turn one into a shower and use the rest of that bathroom space for washers, storage, or simply to create an airy look in an already cramped room.

Small Bathtub Designs of Every Shape

Small bathtubs come in all shapes and different sizes. They aren’t just circular or oval. There are classical claw feet freestanding tubs in minimized versions, square tubs and all kinds of forms in between.

Small Bathtub Designs Made For Ultimate Relaxation" width="900" height="900" />Cyrano Acrylic Slipper 44″ white tub

This Barclay‘s Cyrano Acrylic Slipper tub is just 44″ with the beautiful brushed nickel imperial feet and a roll top. It goes to show that even if your bathroom is tiny you can still create a vintage style interior with a classic tub that won’t take up too much space.

It is ideal for the bedroom too because you won’t end up giving too much of the floor space to the bathroom area. Even though tiny it still has the presence that people like so much about the clawfoot tubs.

Small Bathtub Designs Made For Ultimate Relaxation" width="800" height="800" />Marmorin small soaking tub

Circular shape is probably the most popular among the soaking tubs but this Marmorin Jena shoe-shaped design is all about ergonomics. It may look bigger than it really is but it’s all because of its high back that allows to really lean back and enjoy your me-time.

This form is getting more widespread but it surely requires a bit more space. Well, at least you can sit back and hide from the world behind those tall tub walls.

Small Bathtubs Made of Metal

Asti Copper Japanese soaking tub

Material is as important as the shape of a tub. Copper is a huge design trend right now and the bathtubs that are made of it can surely add some style points to a modern bathroom. This 39″ Asti Copper Japanese Soaking Tub from Signature Hardware has an amazing albeit simple design and can probably fit into the tiniest of bathrooms.

Copper is not only quite easy to clean and maintain, it is also antibacterial. It looks well as it ages and if you choose really carefully it will serve you for quite a long time. Decor tip: match copper with teal or turquoise accents for a truly stunning look.

43″ Simone Polished Stainless Steel soaking tub

Like it or not the round shape is simply the most efficient when it comes to small bathtubs. This is another one of Signature Hardware‘s mini tubs, a 43″ Simone Polished Stainless Steel Soaking Tub, stylish and very small.

It would surely fit into any small bathroom and make it look amazing. The modern stainless steel finish can go well with both traditional and ultra modern or minimalist decorating styles. It all depends on what you’re going for.

Square Freestanding Bath Tub 41' x 41' from ADM Bathroom Design" width="900" height="900" />Square Freestanding Bath Tub 41′ x 41′ from ADM Bathroom Design

Of course, if a square tub works better for your floor plan then you’re in luck because there are quite a lot of them on the market right now. For instance, this ADM Bathroom Design square tub is a perfect fit for a small bathroom, especially if you’re planning to tuck it into a corner.

Some square tubs feature a circle carved up inside of them leaving some space around the angles for storing small things like shampoos and soaps. Some even feature a mini deck with steps to make it easier to get in.

Circular Small Bathtubs

Aquatica TrueOfuro freestanding solid surface bathtub

Speaking of tall and small bathtubs, going upwards is always a valid way to economically use space regardless of the room. In a small bathroom a tall soaking tub leaves so much free space to simply move around.

Circular soaking tubs can often be quite deep and tall like the Aquatica‘s TrueOfuro freestanding tub. It is quite small but a grown adult can clearly fit in it without any problem.

Aquatica Purescape freestanding acrylic bathtub

Purescape tub from Aquatica is designed by the same principle but it has a modern look to it. It also features the decorative rings that make it look like a collapsable cup.

Speaking of which, soaking tubs often have cup-like shapes but there are other small tub designs that resemble things like bowls and even vases.

Colorful Small Bathtubs

Acrylic mini bathtub

While round tubs look more impressive in the middle of the room or beside a bed or a window, they can also quite successfully fit into a corner. This Glass Design acrylic mini tub has its back raised and while it’s circular there’s little space wasted between it and the wall.

Beside shapes, sizes and materials the color of a bathtub is a whole different factor that diversifies the choice. Surely most of them are still white on the inside but the sides come in all the different colors from red to blue to golden.

Flower style back bathtub

Another great small bathtub design from Glass Design looks more like a flower vase (perhaps hence the name) and features a black exterior but the white insides.

Sure, it may not look as convenient or practical but just look at how little floor space it occupies. You can probably stand upright inside of it, which would eliminate the need for a shower. But the question is how does one get in?

Mini Gold Leaf tub

Their Mini Gold Leaf small bathtub can really transform a tiny bathroom. Its beautiful finish would definitely make for a luxury bath interior.

Since its back is raised and a bit pointed, it too fits well into the corner. Although who would want to tuck it in there rather than placing it right in the middle of the room?

Traditional Small Bathtubs

Tubby Torre bathtub

Freestanding bathtubs are very popular right now. But if you need a mini version that would fit into a tiny bathroom the Tubby Torre from Albion Bath Co. is a perfect option.

Painted into a beautiful dark bronze the bathtub would make a gorgeous addition to any bathroom or even bedroom. It’s compact enough to leave a lot of free space in the room. And it’s beautiful enough to pass as a full-sized luxury freestanding tub.

Tubby too short roll top bathtub

Tubby Too Short is another contender for a small luxury bathroom. This mini clawfoot tub painted into bright purple really calls for a mock vintage style or maybe even shabby chic.

It is a great way to add a pop of color to a small bathroom. It both creates a focal point in the interior and requires no additional decorative accents.

Small Bathtubs Made of Marble

Papillon Bathtub in Marble Sandstone and Granite by Stone Forest

Though stone isn’t accessible to most, the bathtubs made out of it can look truly incredible. Even the small ones. Stone Forest shows what marble sandstone can do to such a mundane thing as a bathtub.

Beside the high cost natural stone requires tremendous maintenance. So if you think you want one be sure to do your homework and find out what you’re getting into before the purchase.

EAU Soaking tub

Stone Forest knows a thing or two about impressive stonework. This small bathtub was presented at ICFF and also at IDS12. It earned a 2011 BOY Merit Award from Interior Design Magazine and general media attention for its impeccable design.

Finished with a sealant (like this one), stone bathtubs require careful cleaning. If the sealant is damaged your tub could end up with stains and scratches. But even with sealant intact you still want to wipe it dry after each use. This is done to prevent mineral and soap scum buildup. Do you think you’re ready for such a commitment?

Small Bathtubs Made of Stone

GRAL tub by SIGN

The GRAL bathtub by SIGN looks like an oversized sink and while small it’s definitely a luxury tub as it was made out of a single excavated stone piece.

If you’re trying to save both space and money though you can surely find an equivalent shape among more modest modern tubs on the market.

Circular bathtub in home by Carver + Schicketanz

As we already mentioned, a small bathtub doesn’t have to only be a solution to the lack of space. In a spacious bathroom it can simply allow you to add features that aren’t fit for the other rooms.

This beautiful stone bath is doing just that in a house designed by Carver + Schicketanz. There’s plenty of space in the indoor/outdoor room with some serious furnishings that offer plenty of storage space.

SPA bathtub designed by nespoli e novara for Neutra Design" width="800" height="493" />SPA bathtub designed by nespoli e novara for Neutra Design

SPA bathtubs are definitely the ones that allow you to soak well and relax. This one was designed by nespoli e novara for Neutra Design and it surely looks relaxing. Available in a range of various stones including moonstone and granite it makes for a luxury addition to a small bathroom.

While you may think it’s not as versatile a small bathtub can double as a shower or even a whirl tub.  So even those who lack space can enjoy a piece of their favorite SPA right at home.

Small Bathtubs in Interior Design

JAUREGUI Architecture Interiors Construction" width="800" height="530" />Designed by JAUREGUI Architecture Interiors Construction

Think small bathtubs can’t look impressive? Then you didn’t see this bathroom designed by JAUREGUI Architecture Interiors Construction. Featuring a built-in round bathtub with a marble ring and a waterfall tap this interior is out of this world.

Of course, the glazed walls and a marble fireplace add considerably to the interior design. But you can’t deny that you’ve never seen a tub like this one before.

Master bathroom with a coffee cup bathtub

Another bathtub you may have never seen before is this coffee cup-shaped bathtub complemented with a themed feature wall. It’s cute but nevertheless impressive. A cleverly incorporated mirror makes the small room feel more spacious.

And still there’s plenty of space for storage, toilet, bidet and a sink with a vanity. What an incredible idea and execution!

Teal bathroom with a small freestanding tub

As you can see even a simple small bathtub can look impressive when it’s a bowl-shaped freestanding design accented with bright teal tiles as a backdrop for a pristine white vessel.

Bubble pendant lights play into the picture full of circular shapes. And a wooden ladder that may look a bit out of place adds its own charm to the look.

Bedroom/bathroom by Finnis Architects

This is a great example of how you can combine the bedroom and bathroom by Finnis Architects. A small bathtub doesn’t get in the way and a half wall gives it a bit of privacy.

There are quite a few challenges when it comes to moving a bathtub into the bedroom but in the end of the day the look is definitely worth it.

Small Built-In Bathtubs

Sunken Concrete Bathtub by Lance Workshop" width="800" height="1067" />Sunken Concrete Bathtub by Lance Workshop

A small bathtub doesn’t have to be freestanding of course. If you need or want to build it into the floor or between the walls you can do that especially in a particularly tight room.

This pulley shower system by Lance Workshop features a sunken concrete bathtub that can easily provide residents with both quick morning showers and the prolonged relaxing bathing sessions.

Michaela Scherrer tiny spa bath

In Michaela Scherrer‘s Pasadena bungalow the concrete SPA bathtub features a partially hidden shower and thick enough borders to keep the appropriate toiletries within a hand’s reach.

As you can see you don’t need a fancy tub or tiles to create your own SPA bath. The white plastered walls and grey concrete work quite nicely together making for a very modern minimal look.

Small bathtub in an Oriental Warehouse Loft

Wood is another material on the rise in the bathtub design. Wooden tubs like this one in the Oriental Warehouse are too high-maintenance but they provide the bathroom with an unparalleled look and feel.

Since they too feature a sealant, cleaning and maintenance should be directed at keeping it intact so the water wouldn’t harm the wood.

A small bathtub is not only space-efficient but can also help to create an amazing bathroom interior design. Besides it can also double as a shower or a hot tub. It can look impressive especially if made out of stone and the downsized traditional versions can allow you to have a vintage or traditional look without requiring much space.