5 Ways to Save on Your Water Bill

Read article : 5 Ways to Save on Your Water Bill

We know that watering our lawn in the rain or watching the sprinkler system drench the sidewalk is a huge waste of a precious resource. But how can we conserve our water consumption inside the house? Aside from forgoing showers for the rest of your life, consider these some tips on how to save water (and money!):

1. Buy New Appliances

Who doesn’t want something bright, shiny and new? And, as an added bonus, a newer washing machine or dishwasher will save you from wasting water. Water-efficient products marked with the Environmental Protection Agency’s WaterSense label require less water to operate. The EPA’s Energy Star designation also helps identify the most efficient items to buy.

How much are you saving? Energy Star-rated washers use 35 percent less water and 20 percent less energy than regular washers.

2. Fix Leaky Pipes

A leaky pipe behind the wall can be tricky to detect unless there’s obvious damage. Pay attention to your water bill and note any significant changes from one month to another — a jump in water usage may indicate a leaky pipe. Call a highly rated plumber to help you investigate.

Need to check your tank? James York, owner of highly rated Southern Plumbing Services in Stafford, Texas, says the toilet can be one of the biggest culprits. “Water from the tank leaks into the bowl and then down the drain, and you can’t hear it or see it happening,” he says. York recommends homeowners put a few drops of food coloring in the tank and let it sit for a few hours. “If the food coloring bleeds into the bowl, you’ve got a leak.”

3. Replace Fixtures

Replace faucets and shower heads with water-saving models (look for the WaterSense label) or add aerators to existing fixtures. A low-flow shower head costs between $10 and $50.

For free? Some cities — like Palo Alto, Calif., and Indianapolis — offer free home audits. A surveyor analyzes the amount of energy and water a household uses and provides low-flow fixtures or aerators free-of-charge. Check with your local utility company for similar programs in your area.

4. Turn Water Off 

Simple lifestyle changes can make a big difference. Turn off the faucet while you brush your teeth or shave. Showers take less water than baths (just keep an eye on how long you’re in there). Plug up the sink if doing dishes by hand. Thaw food in the refrigerator overnight rather than using a running tap of hot water. Make sure to fully load your dishwasher and washing machine before starting.

Did you know? The average U.S. family of four uses 400 gallons of water a day.

5. Replace Your Toilet 

If your toilet was manufactured before 1992’s Energy Policy Act, chances are it’s a water-waster. Citing water conservation, the Energy Policy Act required all new toilets to be low-flow, restricting water usage to a maximum of 1.6 gallons per flush instead of the old average of 3.5 gallons.

Do your research before switching out your commode as there are a variety of options. Dual-flush toilets give homeowners the choice to use different amounts of water in order to dispose of solid waste or liquid waste.

Really? If all the inefficient toilets in U.S. homes were converted to WaterSense models, we would save 640 billion gallons of water per year — the equivalent to 10 days of flow over Niagara Falls.

How Californians Are Coping With the Drought

Read article : How Californians Are Coping With the Drought

Earlier this month, California Governor Jerry Brown made an unprecedented decision: To fight back the devastating effects of the drought that is currently racking the state, its citizens will be forced tocut their water use by 25 percent. It was the first such conservation mandate in the state’s history.

Though the executive order has been widely lauded for pushing the state toward a more water-conservative future, it’s still unclear exactly how it will be practically implemented. On Saturday, the State Water Resources Control Board issued arevised set of draft regulations to execute the order. In it, individual water districts are given their own water reduction targets; those areas that have historically been big water wasters will be expected to cut back the most, and those that have already shown success in conservation won’t have to reduce use significantly. (There currently are no additional cutbacks required of agricultural water users.) There is a small window of time open for public comment, and the board is expected to vote on the regulations during the first week of May.

In reality, though, the drought has already forced many Californians to adapt to a new way of life.Newsweekput out a call to residents of the state to ask them what they’ve done in the past year to adjust.  

Keep up with this story and more by subscribing now

Rona Lewis, Nutritionist, Los Angeles

I live in an apartment, and they’ve replaced our regular toilets with low flow. Personally, I try to do little things to help: turn off the water when I’m brushing my teeth, turn it off when I’m washing my hair or waiting for the conditioner to soak in.

I’m a fitness trainer and take a lot of my clients out for power walks during the day. I see a bunch of homes with either Astroturf instead of real grass or desert-type foliage along with rocks for front lawns. It’s hard for those of us who like to grow our own food—I only have a few pots on my balcony for herbs and tomatoes, but my clients and friends who have full-fledged vegetable gardens are frustrated at the restrictions laid upon them.

What so many of us don’t understand is why there is such a fight against building desalination plants. It would solve so many water issues here!

With water in short supply, desalinization of ocean water to make it drinkable is the focus of various projects across the state. Elijah Wolfson

Brian Milne, Business Development Manager, Paso Robles

I live in wine country on the Central Coast of California where we have a ton of vineyards sucking up water and a whole host of water issues.

We had the lake in my hometown of Atascadero go dry. Lakes where I learned to fish (and have written fishing guides and hiking guides about) have gone almost dry.

Our family has cut our water use drastically. We have the brownest lawn on the block, and I'm proud of it. I've only watered our lawn once this spring, and that was when we drained our spa to irrigate our landscape. Our spa is now empty and we don't plan on using it this summer. We've also built a gray-water system that waters our roses from the washer at my parents house. We also have buckets under our rain gutters and use buckets in the shower to catch excess water and reuse it around the house when appropriate.

Additionally, I love to surf, and I've made my own portable shower out of a Roundup Weed Killer Sprayer, and put a pump and nozzle on it and use it to wash off with very little water at the beach. Many state parks in California no longer have water, or the showers they do have waste a significant amount of water. Using my portable shower, I can spread a couple gallons for about three to four showers in the mornings after surfing. That's a lot better than the American average of 17 gallons per shower!

Catherine Trainor, Startup Entrepeneur, Oakland

We bought a pump so that each time we take a bath we can pump that water into a hose to water the plants with. We have a pitcher by the sink so we can pour half-drunk water glasses, water from boiling vegetables, etc., [and use that] to water the plants. In the summer, we let our lawn die. One thing we wish we could do (and that everyone could do) would be to collect water off of our roof for when it rains. An inch of rain on our roof would give us 600 gallons of water, and we'd like to keep it!

Also coming up for the summer: bucket shower!

Hilary Achauer, Writer and Editor, San Diego

We just ripped out our front, south-facing lawn and installed California native plants. We did not install irrigation. The plan is to water it twice a week for eight weeks, and then it should be established well enough that it won't need watering. We've even got some trees—two shoestring acacia trees and an incredible paloverde tree, which is a desert tree with lovely yellow flowers.

Chantay Bridges, Realtor, Los Angeles

At first, I was not dealing with it at all. I heard about it, I felt it, I saw the effects of it. Originally, I sort of buried my head in the sand and attempted to ignore it. Now that it's at a massive level and mandates are being formed, I have taken a look at it more closely. Here's now how we are dealing with the impact of the California drought:

We have reduced our water usage. In lieu of washing daily, even if it's one blouse, we now only wash once per week as an entire family We have adjusted our automatic water sprinklers. Now there are a couple of days where the lawn is not being watered at all. We are not encouraging water type of games with the kids and their friends. Instead, we have given them other options, despite the nice weather.

We are talking to our neighbors, friends and co-workers soliciting suggestions of more ways to conserve. We attended a few neighborhood meetings where they discussed it in length, to educate ourselves and learn best practices.

We are shopping more for water and keep an emergency supply in the home.

Some Californians have stopped watering lawns and plants and others have reduced how often they run sprinklers. Elijah Wolfson

V.J. Sleight, Smoking Cessation Counselor, La Quinta

I have cut the size of my lawn by 75 percent, and I am considering getting rid of the rest of it. I've stopped taking showers every day, especially since some days the only exertion I get is sitting at a desk. I contacted the local water agency, which gave me low-flow nozzles for shower and sinks, plus a plastic bag for the toilet to reduce the amount of water used. I use a dry brush on my car instead of always getting a car wash.

John Cox, Chef, Big Sur

This week [at the Post Ranch Inn], we started using compressed air to clean the plates before loading them into the dish machine. Traditionally, the spray nozzle at the dish station is one of the kitchen's biggest uses of water. By adding the compressed air gun to the station, we have been able to reduce the usage of the water in that area by 80 percent and actually increase productivity. That is a huge savings!

Natalie Nicole Gilbert, Singer/Songwriter, Los Angeles

We received pamphlets last year asking us to avoid water usage during the day as much as possible, such as we would use for laundry, dishwashers, etc. We've since started washing dishes by hand, waiting until a laundry basket is full to do laundry, kept a tighter eye on leaks and drips from the faucets, and generally cut back our water usage on every front we can easily control.

When my doctor advised I take lengthy showers to combat my bronchitis and borderline pneumonia, I balanced that advice with using a small facial and sinus steamer that had much the same effect but required less than one cup of water to create the steam.

We have also thought about moving out of state, particularly because the drought shows no signs of improvement anytime soon. We've begun circulating résumés as far away as the U.K. and Denmark.

Gretchen Hydo, Public Relations Professional, Sherman Oaks

To reduce water, we have cut back on laundry and are wearing our clothes more, flushing toilets less, and watering less. I am a life coach who works from home and my clients come to the house. I did not want to let my garden or my lawn go because it doesn’t look very appealing. The guilt I was having about watering and planting was taking its toll. I called a landscaper to see about drought-tolerant plants (I do not think they are appealing at all, but needed to do something). He came over, and after talking I discovered that I could keep my lawn and my plants and save up to 40 percent of water. It sounded too good to be true, but it worked.

Here are the things we did: 

• We put in a drip system.
• In our flower garden we put in water beads that expand 300 percent. They hold water so that you can water less (and the plants still receive water).
• We put in some individual sprayers to the root balls of the plants so that they got the water (that is all that needs the water to grow).
• We mulched.
• We put in a tank that automatically feeds the lawn and flowers bio stimulants—this makes the flowers bloom, keeps them healthy and keep the grass green. It also cuts down on the water
• And…..I did put in some colorful, drought tolerant plants

Our yard looks amazing.

Liam Collopy, Communications Executive, Manteca

We recently had a pool company come to our home—which routinely reaches 100-degree temperatures in the summer—to provide a design plan and estimate. With the drought and pending water restrictions, we've had to seriously rethink. In addition, the future of our well-manicured plush green front lawn-which is watered according to preset timers—is quickly becoming an offensive luxury as the drought lingers.

This is the new normal in the Central Valley of California. Appearance is out. Water efficiency and conservation is in.

I'm saddened not only for the farmers in our region but for future generations. I'm not an alarmist but my fear is California is turning into a desert.

Nigel Ravenhill, IT Marketing Specialist, Napa

Drought has made me way, way more conscious of even wasting a little bit of water. Now, if there's some water left in a drinking glass, instead of pouring it down the drain, I either water plants inside or walk outside and empty it in one of our outdoor planters or over our potted meyer lemon tree.

Similarly, I don't let the water go straight down the drain if I'm running the tap to get hot water to wash the dishes. Instead of letting a gallon go down the drain, I'll refill the electric kettle or fill-up jugs for watering the plants before the hot water arrives in the tap.

I had almost a crisis of conscience last Saturday morning after having an ice bath following a hard running workout. I was very tempted afterwards to get a bucket from the garage and move the however many gallons from the second floor bathroom to the garden for watering. My wife ended up pulling the plug later in the day.

All three of these behaviors wouldn't have earned a second thought in previous years.

Finally, we're also thinking of removing the front-yard lawn but we live in a neighborhood with restrictions on landscaping options so we're not even sure this will be possible.

And that's what life is now like in California.

Wash, don’t wipe, your butt.

Read article : Wash, don’t wipe, your butt.

By Sparklee A Hole.

If you can read this, you are a human, and you poop. A subject that may delight a few, and disgust many more. but opinions don’t count, because we all have to go and poop. It is what happens afterwards that is rarely discussed. People from different cultures have different ideas about what you should do next. An American or a Brit, who has only ever seen a toilet roll next to a toilet, may travel abroad and find one of the five following devices at his or her disposal.

• A porcelain bidet
• A bucket or barrel of water with a scooper
• A shower spray connected to the toilet tank water supply with a T-adaptor
• An electronic toilet seat that dispenses sprays or jets of warm water and may also air-dry the area
• A pipe that shoots water upwards.

There may be more systems than these five, but these are the common alternatives to simply using dry tissue paper to clean up.

Conversely, someone from the Arab world, or the Philippines, or parts of Asia, might visit The USA and be appalled to find out that Americans believe they can clean their anal area following defecation with nothing more than dry tissue paper. And they would be right, because it really does take more than tissue to be clean following the business.

Clearly, washing is more efficient than tissue-wiping when it comes to removing the after effects of going, especially if a lather from detergent is introduced, so what do these mysterious foreigners do in the bathroom?

The Bidet.

Often seen beside a toilet, the bidet has featured in travel jokes for decades. It is basically a little bathtub that one squats over to wash the area. These usually have hot and cold running water and can squirt, rinse and spray. Anyone who has used a bidet is probably emerging from the bathroom clean.

The electronic bidet toilet seat.

The Japanese have pioneered this field. To have one of these, your toilet needs to have electricity as well as water. These devices, controlled with the push of a button are designed to wash and then dry the area, without the user leaving the seat. Some are simple and some are full of hi-tech features.

The Tabo

Called the tabo in the Philippines but known by other names in South Asia, this system is basically a jug of water, filled in a bucket or barrel or from the tap. The user raises up slightly from the toilet seat and pours water towards the small of the back where the space between the butt cheeks is. The water naturally flows down and over the skin and washes the area.  In practice, although rarely talked about, the user usually puts soap on his or her fingers and washes the butt, just like everyone does in the shower and then rinses with the tabo. Of course this means touching the unclean substance in question (poo) but the hand is using soap and water so with practice it ends up clean when all is over. In the Philippines, bathrooms are wet, meaning there is usually a floor drain and a faucet on the wall, which is used to fill the vessel. The tabo is difficult for lifelong wipers to accept, but it does remove all traces of waste and associated bacteria, so should not be criticized. Anyone with a sink within arm’s reach of the toilet, and a plastic jug or jar, can try the tabo right now, with nothing to install. In rural areas, the tabo is also used for outdoor, full body bathing.

The bidet shower spray.

The Arabs call it a shattaf, (sounds like shit off, which is basically what it does), but this is nothing more than a handheld water shower that connects to the water inlet valve for the toilet via a T-connection. Room temperature water is sprayed on the anus after the business is done. As with the tabo, hand washing the area with soap is an unmentioned option. These sprays are often called diaper sprays or nappy sprayers, because they can also be used to wash off most of the baby poo from your baby’s diaper before tossing it in the bleach pail. The baby poo just goes right down the loo. The downside to using a handheld shower spray in a colder climate is, in winter, the tap water can be extremely cold. In some places these are called the muslim bidet and other names, because the muslim world is apparently quite particular about keeping clean down there. But if your bathroom is in Thailand or Saudi Arabia, to name a couple of places, you’ll probably have a sprayer adjacent to the toilet, and the water will not be a cold shock.

The sprayer pipe.

In Egypt you are likely to see a curved brass pipe at the back of the toilet bowl. This is water spraying at it’s most basic. Just turn on the tap and a jet of water shoots towards the butt for hands-free washing, or manually assisted soaping, as discussed under the tabo.

So here is the taboo subject of cleaning the ass being discussed in a magazine. Some will find the whole subject unthinkable and live their whole lives failing to properly remove poo and bacteria with their little pieces of tissue paper, and others will never use tissue paper instead of washing. While it may be obvious which idea is more effective,  preconceptions about what is civilized may keep most westerners in the dirt until they are buried in the dirt. But whatever you do following a poo, follow by washing your hands with soapy lather, and you’ll stay safe.

Sparklee A Hole is always ready for inspection and never has to hide his underwear deep in the laundry basket.

Editor’s note: We had almost 150 comments on this post, some quite well written and lengthy. But some comments contained less than tolerant cultural attacks etc., and so we made a decision to disable comments for this post and delete all that were here.

Thermometric LED Faucets : LED Faucet Light

Read article : Thermometric LED Faucets : LED Faucet Light

This LED Faucet Light Color-Codes According to Water Temperature

Visualize the temperature of running tap water with this LED faucet light, which fits on most taps and an LED light will light up when you turn on the tap.

The LED Water Faucet Stream Light Temperature Sensor is extremely easy to install. All you have to screw on the faucet piece and use the internal thread adapter provided instead of a universal one. There are no external batteries or power supplies needed; once installed, the light piece does all the work itself.

The faucet's built-in thermometer measures how hot or cold the running water is and categorizes them into three colors: red for anything above 44 degrees Celsius, green for lukewarm (32°C - 43°C) and blue for cold. This would be a fun visual to add to any kitchen or bathroom -- the colorfully illuminating water tap will add a nice finishing touch to any sink.

HTC Bolt - Water and dust resistant - Support

Read article : HTC Bolt - Water and dust resistant - Support

Follow these tips and precautions to help maintain water and dust resistance for your phone.

Never attempt to insert or remove the nano SIM and microSD cards with gloves, wet hands, or when the phone is wet.

Note:

• Before closing the card slot covers, wipe off every drop of water or dirt with a clean, dry cloth. Also make sure that no hairs, fibers, or small particles are caught between the covers and the slot openings to prevent water from seeping through the gaps and entering the phone.
• Parts that maintain water resistance such as the card slot cover may degrade over time. If these parts degrade or get damaged, the phone will no longer be water resistant. If this happens, contact your retail store or mobile operator. You may be charged for parts replacement.

Do not intentionally submerge HTC Bolt. If the phone accidentally gets immersed in water, do not press the POWER and VOLUME buttons and do not operate the phone.

Do not expose the phone to fast or strong-moving water such as shower spray, running taps or faucets, waterfalls, or ocean waves.

Do not expose the phone to or let the USB port come in contact with the following:

• Water containing soap, detergent, or shower gel
• Sea water, swimming pools, spas, hot water, and hot springs
• Any liquid besides tap water such as alcohol, juices, and condiments
• Sand

If the phone is exposed to fresh water, make sure to dry it thoroughly. To avoid damaging the phone, do not charge when contaminants are present or the USB port is not completely dry. In these circumstances, do not connect any external device.

Never use a hair dryer to dry wet parts of the phone.

The power adapter and accessories are not water resistant. Never use them in wet areas such as in the bathroom or kitchen since contact with water may cause malfunction, electric shock, or other hazards.

Avoid leaving the phone in humid places such as the bathroom or kitchen for too long since it is not moisture-proof.

Greenbuild exhibitors get down to business

Read article : Greenbuild exhibitors get down to business

TORONTO — The exhibits at the annual Greenbuild Show continue to become increasingly practical and pragmatic, much like the university competition that is the Solar Decathlon in Washington that wrapped up earlier in October. There was little to see that was far outside of the mainstream.

The U.S. Green Building Council's annual Greenbuild International Conference & Expo featured four days of networking, educational sessions, green building tours, master speakers and plenary events. The 140,208 gross square meters (1.5 million-sq.ft.) of the North and South building expo floors of the Metro Toronto Convention Centre were fully sold out and comprised of 1,700 booths.

Related Articles:
Greenbuild 2010 showcases innovative solutions

The 23,000 attendees must have been in the educational sessions because they weren’t on the show floor, making it easy for CONTRACTOR to speak with any of the exhibitors at any time. Kohler stood out with a 40-ft. x 40-ft. booth that was made of recycled barn wood. Kohler has converted all faucets from its residential lines to meet new low-lead guidelines.

Additionally, the company unveiled two advanced commercial faucets at Greenbuild that now comply with the lead regulations, the Gooseneck and the Streamlined Touchless faucets. In addition to their low lead content, the faucets boast a touchless design that uses Kohler’s proprietary Insight adaptive infrared sensor technology and runs off the industry’s first ever 30-year Hybrid Energy System. The firm also showed off its enameled cast iron products that are made from at least 80% recycled material.

Reduce, reuse and recycle was the theme for Charlotte Pipe & Foundry. The company pointed out that its cast iron pipe is made from 100% recycled material from everything from refrigerators to car engines. Charlotte’s RePVC plastic pipe has recycled material in the center with virgin material in the inner and outer skins. It is the first NSF-listed Schedule 40 pipe made with recycled materials. The company’s ReUze purple CPVC pipe is made for rainwater and graywater systems and is labeled, “Warning: Non-potable water do not drink.” ReUse meets all the same requirements as FlowGuard Gold CTS CPVC domestic water piping.

Sloan Valve showed off its Solis line of PV-power flushometers and hand-washing faucets. The company displayed a brand-new faucet line, Basys, which includes automatic shutoff, visible diagnostics, interchangeable parts, multiple power options, automatic line purge and three flow options. The crown of the Basys faucet is easily removed for access to all the internal parts. Sloan also showed off its Greenbuild-appropriate Aqus graywater system that collects water under the lav, cleans it, stores it and then uses it to flush the adjacent toilet. Aqus works with most toilets, even dual flush, and it is UPC-listed.

American Standard displayed its new Decorum FloWise high-efficiency urinal designed for luxury buildings, clubs and resorts. Decorum uses 0.5-gpf, half the amount of a standard urinal, meeting the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency’s WaterSense program requirements. Moreover, commercial specifiers can now select thirty-four pairings of commercial urinals, toilets and flush valves to make commercial specifying more efficient. In addition to streamlining the specifying function, this consolidated process helps expedite delivery and paperwork for large volume commercial projects. The company also showed its Studio dual flush toilets. These luxury performance (dubbed LXP) toilets offer users the choice between a standard 1.6-gpf for solids or 1.1-gpf for liquids, meeting WaterSense criteria for using 20% less water than standard models.

The green emphasis at Delta Faucet was that all of its residential lavatory faucets flow at 1.5-GPM at 60-PSI. A majority of Delta products are also WaterSense labeled. The WaterSense label provides consumers with assurance that bathroom faucets, such as Leland, Lahara, Addison, Dryden, and Victorian, are approximately 30% more water-efficient than their 2.2-GPM counterparts. In the commercial sector, all Delta brand lavatories have a 1.5-GPM outlet as standard, with the option of 0.5-GPM for further savings. In addition to contributing LEED credits, Delta Faucet Co. also provides electronic and manual commercial metering products for reassurance that the faucet won’t be left running.

Moen recently introduced new eco-performance retail kitchen faucets that allow users the option to switch between three water-flow settings. For everyday tasks that require constant, yet low water flow, such as washing dishes or preparing foods, homeowners can choose eco-performance standard stream or aerated spray modes. These settings provide a reduced flow rate of 1.75-GPM. For tasks that require a set amount of water, however, such as filling a pot or pitcher, they can switch to the fast-fill mode, which flows at 2.2-GPM. Moen’s Commercial Division has created Eco-Performance shower systems that are certified to meet WaterSense criteria, with flow rates as low as 1.5-GPM. Commercial shower systems combine Moen’s Eco-Performance showerheads with the Posi-Temp valve to reduce water consumption and eliminate shower shock.

ClimateMaster introduced the Tranquility Modular Water-to-Water (TMW) Series in 360 (30-ton) and 600 (50-ton) sizes. This water-to-water series offers high efficiency with advanced features and application flexibility at competitive prices. As ClimateMaster’s most adaptable EarthPure HFC410A refrigerant units, the TMW series can be used for radiant floor heating, snow/ice melt, chilled water for fan coils, hot/chilled water for make-up air, and many other types of HVAC applications. The TMW 360-600 has advanced digital controls for BAS interface, four LEDS for unit status and compressor isolation switches. Other features include front and back service access panels that allow for side-by-side installation; larger capacity, requiring fewer units per job site; staggered top water connections for ease of manifolding multiple units; and DDC controls with 11 safety protections for the refrigeration circuits.

Aquatherm displayed its Greenpipe recyclable polypropylene-random (PP-R) piping system designed for potable water applications. The pipe is joined by heat fusion. The PP-R material used in Aquatherm pipe is an abundant byproduct of petroleum processing. It also requires far less energy for initial production than other piping materials, and involves none of the environmental effects associated with mining operations.

Additionally, the pipe has a natural R-value of 1-1.5 depending on pipe size and SDR. Aquatherm Lilac, developed for graywater applications such as toilet/drain water, rainwater collection, laundry/cleaning, irrigation, and similar uses, is comparatively low priced and has a list of steadily growing code approvals (it currently meets ASTM F2389 and CSA B137.11).

McQuay International previewed the new Daikin McQuay SmartSource Water Source Heat Pump (WSHP) product line during Greenbuild. The line includes the industry’s first variable-speed inverter WSHP. The new line of water source heat pumps comes in a range of sizes and options that include smart dehumidification, waterside economizers and internal electric heat. The SmartSource platform is geothermal ready with factory-mounted loop water pumps. McQuay also introduced the Daikin McQuay Rebel rooftop unit. The new unit claims energy efficiency at almost double the ASHRAE 90.1 minimum standard, while functioning as a Variable Air Volume heat pump unit down to three tons. In addition, the Daikin McQuay Rebel is the first packaged rooftop system to use variable heat pump technology with auxiliary gas heat, as well as, Daikin’s advanced variable inverter scroll compressor.

Taking the spotlight in Niagara’s Greenbuild booth this year was the Stealth Ultra-High-Efficiency Toilet, featuring 0.8-gpf technology. The Stealth was set-up for live demonstrations for Greenbuild attendees. For the shower, Niagara displayed the high-efficiency Sava Spa Showerhead and the Tri-Max Showerhead with three flow rate options. With a new line of faucet aerators, the Niagara booth showcased both kitchen and bathroom faucet aerators, including its new Versa Kitchen Aerator, Tri-Max Aerator, Lead-Free Aerator and Bathroom Sink Aerator. Niagara also introduced the Energy Saving Smart Surge Protector and the Eco-IQ Programmable 5-2 Thermostat.

Jaga, a European manufacturer of stylish panel radiators and unique fan-powered hydronic baseboard, announced that it has filled out its U.S. representation and it is available across the U.S. Jaga’s product lines include the Energy Savers low-H20 radiators and the Eye Catchers line of visually appealing heating solutions. Because of its heat exchanger technology, Jaga’s “Energy Savers” radiators require only 10% the water of traditional panel radiators, resulting in a 12% energy savings. This lowers energy bills and reduces annual CO2 emissions per dwelling by almost a ton. Jaga’s Eye Catchers heating solutions use innovative materials and production techniques to elevate the radiator from a design object to art.

Encore, a division of Component Hardware Group Inc., has introduced a hygienic, water-conscious solution for converting a standard faucet into a low-flow metering faucet. The One-Tap Metering Aerator fits most faucets with an existing aerator, enabling a speedy, hassle-free transition to a water-conserving faucet. The One-Tap Metering Aerator offers a cost-effective alternative to electronic faucets. Water flow starts with a single touch and the adjustable metering activator automatically stops the flow in two to 20 seconds. This action reduces the risk of cross-contamination and provides up to 87% water savings over conventional faucets. The One-Tap Metering Aerator comes with a tamper-proof housing, installation/adjustment key and 15/16-27 female by 55/64-27 female thread adapter to fit most standard faucets with aerators.

Copper pipe electrolysis from touching galvanized steel?

Read article : Copper pipe electrolysis from touching galvanized steel?

topic 24664

An ongoing discussion from 2003 through 2016 . . .

(2003)

Q.I recently had a 1/2" TYPE L HMP flexible copper pipe that sprung a leak, unfortunately it was inside the wall going up to the second floor. After splicing the pipe where it was leaking another spot started leaking. I noticed inside the pipe a bunch of green "blobs" & the outside of this (HOT) water pipe a lot cleaner than the other pipe (COLD) that would have been put in at the same time, 20-25 years ago I'm guessing. I did notice one spot where the copper pipe was touching an old galvanized pipe seemed to be wet and green. Could there have been some electrolysis going on that caused this pipe to start getting finer than pin hole leaks & how much damage might have been done to the rest of the plumbing if that is the case?

THANK YOU FOR YOUR HELP,

Alex H [last name deleted for privacy by Editor]
do-it-myself-er - Cedar Rapids , Iowa

---

(2003)

A.Copper pipes can corrode in at least three different ways, but the differences are quite technical. I would suggest that the corrosion could be induced by a galvanic couple caused by contact with the galvanised pipe and this results in an induced local anodic polarisation of the copper pipe. I would normally expect such a failure to occur where the two pipes come into contact, but if this point is dry, no corrosion will occur and the effects of the galvanised pipe will be transmitted onto the copper pipe where it will react in a more favourable wet environment. Your photograph clearly shows the green copper salts on the inside of the failed straight pipe, so it must have been in an area where the copper is oxidised and failed. The propensity for copper pipes to fail is related to how the pipe was made, the local water composition and the environment it is used in. I would suggest there may be other not be other problems with your copper pipes, as there has already been a failure of an induced polarity, but if there are other non-compatible pipes in contact with each other, there could be a repeat of this. It may be wise to ask a plumber to check your system out.

Trevor Crichton
R&D practical scientist
Chesham, Bucks, UK

---

(2004)

Q.I was told by a local plumber that electrolysis can occur in copper pipes when the hot water heating system is part of a forced hot water boiler system. The solution is to put nylon fittings between the copper connections and the galvanized boiler system so as to prevent any electrolysis action from taking place in the copper pipes running throughout the building. I would like to get other opinions since this is an expensive fix and it takes a long time to determine whether the fix in fact works.

Dan W [last name deleted for privacy by Editor]
property management - Juneau, Alaska

---

(2004)

A.It is the right advise, Dan. For galvanic corrosion to occur you need a metallic circuit and an electrolyte circuit. If you break the conductive metal circuit between the copper and galvanized pipe, galvanic corrosion ("electrolysis")" does not occur. This is not to say that no form of corrosion will ever occur though.

Ted Mooney, P.E. RET
finishing.com
Pine Beach, New Jersey

---

(2004)

A.Copper pipe failure began to occur approximately eight years after completion of a new home in Brewster Co. Texas. The leaks were always in the cold line.

A split-core ammeter revealed a slight current flow between the steel gas pipe and the hot side of the copper system. No current could be detected between the cold copper pipe and the hot, or the steel gas line. This led me to conclude that the cold line was acting as a sacrificial anode between the other two while absorbing all voltage drop.

No electrical bonding could be found.

My solution was to isolate the steel line (which included some galvanized parts), from the copper system with a PVC adapter.

Current flow cannot now be detected unless a jumper is placed between the steel and copper.

Is the problem solved? I don't know! What can be said is that there is no further measurable evidence of electrolytic activity in this particular system.

Sam D [last name deleted for privacy by Editor]
- Alpine, Texas

---

(2004)

A.As others have mentioned, there are three different ways for holes to develop in a copper line, and I have seen all three.

A typical trade mark of electrolysis is pit on the inside of the pipe where the electrical current has actually eaten away at the piping, this doesn't sound like what is going on.

Another way is corrosion from the outside, normally when the piping in in a damp location with high acid soils, or even in an unsealed sleeve (copper run inside another pipe, usually PVC, and normally from the meter to the house). This is evidenced by pitting on the outside of the pipe.

The last one I have come across, and am still researching, is what it sounds like this gentleman has. It typically will have build-up on the inside of the piping and will often times leave large "blobs" of build up. I don't know what this is for sure, but I do know it isn't electrolysis, and it has nothing to do with water that is too clean (mentioned on another website as a possible answer). I think it has to do with the water quality to a certain degree, but I think it may be the molecular structure not the chemicals used. I think the buildup is a protectant for a "micro-atmosphere" high in maybe hydrogen. But I could be wrong, I am still researching this. I will post any further findings.

Jereme Grisenti
plumbing - Blountville, Tennessee

---

(2005)

Q.If we were to rivet or otherwise attach a copper sleeve to galvanized chimney pipe, would this cause the galvanized pipe to fail? We have fireplace chimneys on the beach. we have several copper clad chimneys that are doing well, but the maker went out of business. Now we have only galvanized pipe to work with and the outside of it corroding causes an eye sore.

Bryan Malt
- San Diego, California

---

(2006)

Q.This is a piggy back question.

Three 1/2 inch copper pipes running from my basement to the Laundry room one floor above show the same kind of erosion as the picture accompanying the original question. In each case the green copper salts and pin holes developed where the pipes pass through the floor. You can see the leaking water from below but not from the laundry room level.

After one of two plumbers to replace one of the leaky pipes stated that at one point he felt a very mild electrically shock, I had an electrician check the system. The electrician said he could not find a problem. The electrician checked the system before and after the plumber felt the shock. We could not duplicate the shock with the plumber or the electrician.

The plumber reinstalled the three pipes and wrapped the new pipes in electrical tape at the point where the pipes go through the floor.

Since we have not yet found a source of electrical charge would it be prudent to ground the copper line to an unused galvanized pipe so any current would flow to the unused galvanized pipe? Any help would be appreciated.

Greg Butts
- Stafford, Virginia

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(2007)

Q.When copper pipes are plastered over into walls do they need to be protected from corrosion either by cement or plaster?

Mrs M Bridger
Homeowner - Steyning, West Sussex, England

---

(2007)

Q.I have a brick wall in my bathroom and want to cut a groove in the brick run the copper pipe inside and cement it back up. Will this have a long term effect on the pipe
thanks daz

Dario Ruberto
designer - Toronto, Canada

---

(2007)

Q.I have some questions regarding electrolysis, or galvanic corrosion between the copper and galvanized water pipes in my house. The house in on a municipal system and it is my understanding that acidic or soft water is not a problem in my area.

I have extremely low pressure in the upstairs bathrooms, and moderately low on the main floor kitchen. In my basement I have galvanized pipes coming in from the street, they supply the hot water heater, and they run the hot water for a few feet beyond the tank. At one point they are connected directly to copper pipes which take the hot and cold supply upstairs to the bathrooms.

I intend to replace the galvanized pipe, but I am trying to decide whether or not to replace the copper pipes going upstairs, and as well the hot water heater.

To make this decision I need to understand a little more about what is going on with the electrolysis. Before discussing the ramifications with the hot water heater, I have the following questions:

1. Where the galvanized and copper connect in the basement, does the electrolysis happen only locally? It seems that the electrons would travel only within the magnetic field created by the metals and therefore only affect the pipes within about a foot or so of the connection. Or, since the water exists through all the pipes, does the electrolysis affect the copper all the way to the upstairs bathrooms?
2. Once the galvanized pipe is removed, will the electrolysis cease? (I understand that new copper and old copper will also create electrolysis but I assume this condition is not as severe.)
3. I understand why galvanized pipe corrodes when coupled with copper but I don't understand why it is that the galvanized pipe becomes filled with gunk on the inside and restricts flow, I would think the corroding would make it get slightly wider on the inside, not more narrow.
4. If I remove the galvanized pipe, can I clean out the remaining copper pipe to make sure there is no corrosive material setting in them? How is this performed?

As far as the hot water heater is concerned, galvanized pipe feeds it and takes the water out of it, however, there is copper flexible tubing that actually connects directly to it. I assume this means the heater has corrosive material in it and will likely not last as long. If I leave the existing heater in place and wait for it to fail, will it contaminate any new piping that I put in?

Also, if I run the new copper water service through the front yard within a few feet of the gas line will this cause electrolysis? If yes, will it affect the pipes inside the house or just in the front yard? Which pipe will get holes and which will narrow? Can I insulate the copper to prevent this?

Justin Zavislak
buyer, hobbyist - Seattle, Washington

---

July 13, 2008

Q.I have type k copper coming from the main to the shutoff in the house. after reporting a leak it was dug up to be repaired and all was found was a pipe with walls that have thinned considerably and covered in grooves resembling termite damage on wood. it was also riddled with pinholes.

the ground for my electrical is connected to this pipe. could that be a possible cause. please help. there other houses in the area that have had there lines replaced twice in the last 20 years.

thanks, cy

cyrus lambert
hobbyist - conne river, Newfoundland, Canada

---

July 20, 2008

A.Where I work they were having problems with the copper pipes. The anode rods in the water storage tanks had been all wore down. Plumbers found the electrical system grounding rod had been disconnected & everything was grounding through the plumbing, causing the problems. You might want to check but I think it is a code violation now to ground through your plumbing only.

Alex Hatfield
- Cedar Rapids, Iowa

---

August 30, 2008

Q.I have a problem identical to to the lead in this thread. Green spots on rigid type L 1/2 in copper pipe with water seepage. This 14+ ft run of pipe is leading from my gas fired hot water heater (after a few short copper fittings) across the drywall finished basement ceiling to a T that feeds hot water to most of the house. I noticed a small spot of mold on the ceiling, cut it open and found this pipe with green spots like the picture above and two of the spots (at different ends of this one section of pipe) have water seepage. There are several other copper pipes , cold water and feeds for hot water heating that have no green spots,(only this one length of hot water has the spots) and also a flexible gas line in the same bay. My fix is to replace this entire length. A difficult job for me, tight spaces overhead, and hope there are no other bad pipe in the house. Please confirm the cause of this. Is it likely to be elsewhere or reoccur?

David Goldman
- W Milford, New Jersey

---

September 3, 2008

A.In response to the gentleman who experienced a leak on a 1/2 copper pipe and then he split it exposing this thick green blob running on the inside for some unknown length. well from dealing with similar repairs and from years of experience in the field this green corrosion that you are talking about stands far from electrolysis. this green gunk/blob is what we use to solder/sweat our copper pipes with better known as FLUX this product is applied to the outside of the copper pipe once it has been cleaned and reamed. putting too much flux on the pipe and fitting will cause the excess to flow into the pipe and will settle on the inside of the pipe until the system gets energized and water flows flushing out the excess flux. if it was not flushed out and was left as is; guess what? call your plumber.....thanks.

Armando Olvera
- Costa Mesa, California

---

September 14, 2008

Q.Within the last 9 weeks we have called the plumber 3 times regarding a 4 ft. section of hot water copper piping. Each time a pinhole sealing leak about 4-6 feet away from a recently replaced(5 months ago that our plumber installed) electric hot water heater. After replacing 2 inch copper pipe sections at a time we finely asked him to change a length of pipe but, only last night we developed another leak, a foot over from the new pipe, closer to the water heater. Our house is 15 years old and we use city water. The leaky pipe had green discoloration at the leak points. The plumber says this problem could be expected in this area in homes using well water after about 20 years due to the highly acidic soil but we use city water and our pipes are in the sealing. He's suggesting we may need to replace all of our pipes but it seems strange that the leaks are all near the water heater. Could the water heater be faulty or it's installation be the problem?

Chris McQuillen
homeowner - Crescent City, California

---

September 14, 2008

A.Hi, Chris. I'd be pretty confident that is has to do with something electrical rather than well water. I think I'd call an electrician rather than calling the plumber again.

Regards,

Ted Mooney, P.E. RET
finishing.com
Pine Beach, New Jersey

---

(2005)September 30, 2008

Q.can a copper water line be spliced to an existing galvanized water pipe line?

Keith Medved
- Dyer, Indiana

---

A.Hi, Keith. When you transition from one kind of metal pipe to another, the correct thing to do is to use dielectric unions =>

These are unions that include a plastic insulator so there is no metal-to-metal contact. I'm not saying that this is always done, but it is the right way to insure that there can be no galvanic corrosion.

Regards,

Ted Mooney, P.E. RET
finishing.com
Pine Beach, New Jersey

---

October 24, 2008

Q.How can one determine the cause of frequent deterioration of a 3/4" copper water supply line? The section going bad is located underground at the block wall of the foundation. The home owner had to replace this line two times within the past year. The deterioration seems to occur on the outside of the pipe. There were no problems prior to the first replacement of this pipe section 9 months ago. The home has city water and uses a sump pump due to a high level of ground water. I don't know the pH level of the water. The basement is dry, but uses on a "floating slab" to channel away the ground water. I conducted load tests of the electric panel to verify the electric wiring. All tests proved satisfactory with only about .2 amps or less flowing to the ground wire. This is when a 35 amp load is applied to each 120 volt leg. This proves that practically all current is flowing back through the neutral conductor. The electric service is lacking the required two, 8 foot ground rods. There is only one ground rod, and it appears to have been installed as a ground for the telephone system. At this point I'm thinking the corrosion and deterioration was not caused by excessive current flowing top ground via this water supply line.

Dave Baylor
- Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania

---

May 22, 2009

Q.Hi, Our house is 6 years old and from the time we moved in we have had this "green" problem. It has ruined my hair and has left stains in the sinks and toilets. We have had 2 different water softeners and 2 water heaters. We discussed this with the last water softener person and I guess they didn't have a clue about this problem. No one has until I
talked to some nerd at the company that tests the water for the city. He said that it was probably because of the fittings that the water softener company put on the copper pipes and if we didn't rectify the problem, we would eventually have pin size holes in the pipes and leaks! What do we do, who do we call and how do we go about fixing this problem! I want long hair again! Thanks!

Kathy L. Maxwell
- Grover Beach, California

---

December 8, 2009

A.While replacing the copper piping in a 150 year old home, I was puzzled by the green buildup inside of the pipe. Tracing the pipe I discovered that a ground clamp and wire from the circuit breaker box was connected to the cold water line 15' from the water meter where a jumper wire was also connected to the pipe from the street. In the circuit breaker box the Neutral buss was bonded to the Ground buss. That was okay. I also checked the sub panel to make sure the Ground buss and Neutral buss were not connected.

The wire mains from the electrical meter are aluminum. Current will find the least path of resistance, therefore current leakage to the piping is occurring. The remedy for this is to drive a conductive rod into the ground as deep as local code requires and connect a ground wire. Additionally I moved the ground clamp to the incoming side of the water meter, and removed the grounding jumper. As the water meter has dielectric connections the leakage can not return into the water piping since it is no longer grounded.

Bert Cooper
Equipment Designer - Williamsport, Pennsylvania

---

June 11, 2010

Q.Type K soft copper pinholes. We are having numerous issues with 3/4" and 1" and even a couple 2" services running from the mainline in the street to the property. 10 years ago or so we started having pinhole leaks appear on the copper always next to a flaired fitting so naturally everyone blamed it on a bad flair, then the specs changed and we were allowed to use compression fittings. This is now happening with the compression fittings as well, now everyone is blaming it on not de-burring the copper properly.

We just had to dig up a leak and found the pinhole leak in the middle of the 1" copper run (no fittings even close) and the copper was in a 4" sleeve under a major street which would eliminate the corrosive soil theory which the supplier will want to use, also the leak was on the top of the copper so a rubbing situation is not the answer. I have a question, is it possible for the copper at the time of production to have impurities introduced causing an electrolysis situation? Do you know of any other town having this problem. The suppliers here have no idea and have never even heard of this problem before which I find hard to believe. Thank you for your time and opinion

Bill Williams
water company - Tucson, Arizona

---

September 9, 2010

Q.I have recently installed and new water softener with an aerater in my home. My home is 26 years old and several weeks after the installation I noticed a blueish/green tint. I have had the water tested and the copper level is high, can the new system cause this?

Rachele Cancia
home owner -Sunrise, Florida

---

November 26, 2010

Q.I had an odd situation and was wondering if there is a known reason.
Last evening we noticed water dripping from the ceiling. Upon cutting open the ceiling, I noticed that the 3/4 hot water heating pipe (not sure if supply or return) was pressing firmly against the 1/2 hot water supply pipe, and that a leak had developed in the (smaller) hot water pipe where they touched. Fortunately, the heating pipe was connected to flexible copper to go up through the floor, and I was able to push the pipes apart and repair the supply line easily, but I am concerned what might have caused this leak.

Mike Paulson
former kitchen contractor, retired -falls church, Virginia

---

December 17, 2010

Below is an excerpt from Wikipedia's "Tap Water" page at en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tap_water

"Pin-hole leaks can occur anytime copper piping is improperly grounded and/or bonded; nonmetal piping, such as Pex or PVC, does not suffer from this problem. The phenomenon is known technically as stray current corrosion or electrolytic pitting. Pin-holing due to poor grounding or poor bonding occurs typically in homes where the original plumbing has been modified; homeowners may find a new plastic water filtration device or plastic repair union has interrupted the water pipe's electrical continuity to ground when they start seeing pinhole water leaks after a recent install. Damage occurs rapidly, usually being seen about six months after the ground interruption."

Q.So if I understand this correctly, adding a union may cause this problem? How does one connect copper pipe to galvanized steel then, or how to bond from copper pipe (cold water line, for example) to iron pipe (gas line, for example)? What materials is the bond conductor made of?

Andy Roberts
-Maynard, Massachusetts

---

May 13, 2011

A.I have seen electrolysis occur with galv. steel straps, hangers and supports, with copper. It usually occurs at the point.
Pin Hole leaks are mostly caused by incorrect installation of plumbing pipes.
For example, If a plumber uses a pipe cutter, to cut a pipe, it leaves a ridge on the inside of the pipe. This causes a ripple in the flow of water going through the pipe, and will eventually start eating away at the pipe, from the inside out. This was a common occurrence back when track homes were booming, and the track rats were doing high volume production, and not installing correctly.
You can verify this, by separating the pipes at the soldered joint, and stick you finger in the pipe and feel the edge. If you feel a sharp edge, then the fitter never filed the inside edge to remove this. Which this is why it will happen in multiple places in your home. Also the reason it happens more to cold water lines, is because you use your cold water more that your hot.

Keith Van Aalst

-Anaheim California

---

February 3, 2012 -- this entry appended to this thread by editor in lieu of spawning a duplicative thread

Q.I need to run natural gas to an outside heater. I have a 3/4" gal water line which is no longer used, am hoping to run type 'L' flex 1/2" copper line thru this line to supply gas to out side heater, is that possible or is there something I could wrap the copper with to make it work?

Bob Hendrickson
-Pontiac, Illinois, USA

---

February 25, 2012

Q.I have a bunch of copper fittings. 1/2", 3/4" & 1"; I had the fittings for a year or more. Some of the fittings are starting to get corrosion on them, a greenish thick coating. What is causing this and how do I control/stop it. All the fittings are new and never used.

Ken Kramlich
-Sacramento, California, USA

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February 27, 2012

A.Hi, Ken.

Copper corrodes, but usually not that quickly. The simplest fix is probably to put them in a plastic bag with desiccant. Sodium benzotriazole is a copper preservative. You can use brass lacquer if you are trying to protect them for artistic rather than functional use. Good luck.

Regards,

Ted Mooney, P.E. RET
finishing.com
Pine Beach, New Jersey

---

December 18, 2012

A. After reading all of the postings about plumbing -
There are a lot of factors to touch on.

Any type of pipe can be connected to a different type of pipe with the right connectors that can be found at big box or good hardware store.

The green spots inside or outside of a copper pipe is cause by Flux.
Flux is an acid that is used by plumbers when the copper piped is fitted together and soldered.
When a plumber puts too much flux on the copper fittings or pipe - It stays inside the pipe and causes the pipe and or fittings to corrode because the water does not get hot enough to melt flux in order to get it flushed out of the pipe or fittings.
Even if you air pressure out the lines, all of the flux will not move out of the copper pipe because flux is a paste, and what little amount of flux that does move will stick to any joining type of Copper or Plastic or PVC or Galvanized pipe or fittings.
Green spots on the outside of a copper pipe or fittings usually means the plumber did not wipe off any left over flux on the out side of the copper pipe or fittings, or the copper pipe has started to corrode from the inside out from using too much flux inside the pipe and the flux has made its way to the outside of the copper pipe or fittings and needs to be replaced.

As far as electric or electric ground going through copper - Electricity will slowly soften up the excess flux that was used on the copper pipe or fittings.
As the flux softens, and because Flux is an acid, it will slowly break down the copper pipe or fittings and needs to be replaced.

NOTE:
Most electric or electric ground going through a copper pipe is not a high enough voltage to melt flux -- it will only soften the flux.

NOTE:
If your phone line is grounded to the copper line then this alone is enough to soften the flux.
If you put some flux on both the neg. and pos. post of a small charged 9 volt battery you will find that the flux will soften.
If you leave the flux on the battery the flux will corrode the battery because flux is an acid.

NOTE:
If your phone or cable is grounded to your copper pipe this is enough electric for a person to get a small shock when touching the copper pipe.
After a person touches the pipe and gets a small shock, it takes quite a while for the electric to build back up because the voltage is quite low.
It is because the voltage is so low that when a person touches a copper pipe and gets a small shock you have depleted the electric in the copper pipe and a shock will not happen again until the electric builds back up in the copper pipe.

NOTE:
Anytime you have to run a copper pipe behind a wall that will be closed in, only use HARD copper pipe (NOT ROLLED TUBING OR SOFT TUBING). Place the copper pipe inside of a piece of PVC pipe and do not have any fittings or couplings that have been soldered inside the PVC pipe.
If you need to soldier on fittings - Solder the fittings on after you have cleared the wall that will be closed in. It will also be helpful to use liquid foam between the copper pipe and the PVC pipe to stop any pipes from clanking when the water is turned on or off. You can pre make up the pipe with the foam in order to let the liquid foam set up.

I hope this information is helpful.

Jim Drake
- Fredericksburg, Virginia, USA

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April 20, 2013

A.To those dismissing the "green blobs" as residual flux are not understanding what I think are the inquisitors' issues. We built our home in 2004 and within a couple of years we started experiencing problems in our master shower. Initially, I was able to disassemble the hot water supply in the manifolds and clear out the green "blobbish" crystals. Our master shower is large and has multiple shower heads and two shower manifolds. Since then the problem appear to only exist in the master bath "hot" water lines. I have never had any issue with the cold water lines.

To give a little more detail. The green blobs I am experiencing a hard crystals and not any type of pasty or flux consistency. I have found galvanized steel nipples between the copper supply lines and the brass shower fittings. Two years ago the galvanized nipple on the shower with the most serious blockage, had nearly corroded away completely. Fortunately I had decided inspect the inside of the shower wall after suspecting some sort of "electronic" cause. This morning I found the same union on the second shower head that is now almost completely blocked.

I should have recognized something was wrong in the construction of our plumbing lines during the build simply because of the sloppy solder joints. I have a rudimentary knowledge of plumbing as my father was a plumber. Unfortunately, I was traveling extensively and didn't have time to address the bootleg plumbers my builder contracted.
I guess I was depending on the inspectors to alert us of any issues, but I have learned that lesson.

In summary, I would conclude that the green crystals are formed from kind electric current activity in addition to the hardness of your water. Our municipal water is very hard and my water softener is worthless so we are going to rip out the bathroom walls to see what other surprises we have in store and get a new water softening system.

Vaughn Broadnax
- Carmel, Indiana, USA

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May 21, 2013

Q.During a bathroom remodel, the plumber used some metal strapping (likely galvanized steel)to further secure the copper piping from the shower valve to the shower outlet. (see photo) Days later, my contractor had secured a loose toilet supply valve with a plastic part and explained that a metal material could negatively interact with the copper and eventually cause a leak. (I think he himself had just come upon this info when he went to home depot to pick-up the part.)
I then remembered seeing how the plumber used the metal strapping to basically tie back the copper piping. The wall has since been scratch coated and is about to be floated. I've alerted my contractor about this and am awaiting a reply. I really do not want the float to happen until I know for sure that there is definitely no problem with the set-up, or, until it is corrected. Any input on this would greatly be appreciated.

Jack Goldstein
- Mission Viejo, California, USA

---

May 22, 2013

A.Hi Jack. You need 3 things for galvanic corrosion:
- dissimilar metals so there is an inherent voltage between them,
- metallic contact path between the two metals so that electrons can flow from one metal to the other,
- a moist and conductive ionic path so that positively charged ions can follow the electrons, transporting atoms of metal from one point to another.

You certainly have the first two, but whether the third condition is met well enough for serious concern is always the question, and sometimes hard to define. When such a condition is sealed behind a wall, it sounds to me like poor practice -- then again, I'm not a plumber. You might see if you can find anything in the plumbing code about it. The problem would have been easy to avoid with any kind of plastic between the pipe and strap; you can hopefully get a scrap of Visqueen in between them without much damage to the wall. Good luck.

Regards,

Ted Mooney, P.E. RET
finishing.com
Pine Beach, New Jersey

---

June 3, 2013

Q.Having pin hole issues on the cold water line repeatedly over approx. 8 years -- same area.
The house used to have copper pipe coming in from the street and we did not have a ground strap on it. I can see how the pin holes would happen then. Then the copper pipe was replaced with PVC out to the street so there seemed to be no need for the ground on the street side of the meter, but I left the ground connected on the house side (still copper here). Was this wrong? Still another pin hole problem this year.
Tired of water leaks, Tom

Tom Canarecci
- Mishawaka, Indiana, USA

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July 11, 2013

Q.We have an apartment building that keeps getting leaks in the first apartment. I have read everything and understand the problem, but we don't have money to replace all the pipes, so every few months there is a leak. The last time we had to replace all the carpet because it was leaking over a full weekend.

I have been told by one plumber that he heard of a product that can be put in the pipes that would coat the insides and help prevent the pinholes from developing.
Is there any such product?

Also someone told me of a product that can be painted on the pipes like a silicone or latex component that might be able to help.

If you know of any products like this that I can try, please let me know.

Thank you.

Lisa Keylon
- Fountain Valley, California, USA

---

February 11, 2016

Q. I just noticed there is corrosion at the elbo 90 connector of hot water copper pipe going out of water heater. Both are copper pipes - so wondering what's causing the corrosion. Otherwise I'm planning to
Simply planning to use fix-it stick/Keeny pipe wrap tape as temporary fix until I get time to call plumber to cut the pipe and rejoin.
Please advise:
1) is it ok to fix temporarily
2) if I need to dig in further to find the cause before I fix it.
3) are there any other things I need to check / replace while I'm fixing it.
Btw- this is house is 10 yrs old.

Venu Reddy
- Waukee, Iowa

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April 8, 2016

A. You can also use a brass nipple between copper and galvanize .

Rodolfo ruiz
- Pasadena California usa

---

April 2016

Thanks, Rudolfo. Yes, you can use a brass nipple between them ... but I don't think it will do much towards stopping galvanic corrosion.

Regards,

Ted Mooney, P.E. RET
finishing.com
Pine Beach, New Jersey
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30 Ways To Upgrade Your Apartment On A Budget

Read article : 30 Ways To Upgrade Your Apartment On A Budget

So you’ve just moved into your first apartment on your own (or with roommates), and you seem to be baffled by how expensive everything is! Well don’t worry, because there are ways to upgrade your apartment on a budget. Sure, you pay electricity and internet.. and water..and heat. There is some serious budgeting needed in order to live comfortably. I also understand that you want to know more than just “put baking soda in your fridge to avoid it from stinking up.” So here are 15 great ways to upgrade your apartment while on a budget! Good luck!

*This article is in collaboration with Kayla Nannariello.

1. Use Command Hooks!

The most standard tool among students! Command hooks have a universal purpose, to make life easier. I have command hooks for clothes, I have command hooks for lights, I have command hooks for my whiteboard and anything else I want to hang. they can hold a lot of weight depending on the size of hooks you get. I have hooks for my keys, my umbrella, any dangling wires and even my night light! These little life and space savers not only make it easier to find stuff, but also make your place look so much cleaner and organized…something you definitely want to see when you come back from a long day of classes. This way you will have a place to put your keys instead of throwing them around and regretting it the next morning when you’re rushing around.

2. Use the free cups and bottles you get around campus fairs (housing fair, clubs and organizations fairs, career fair.)

Don’t just use them to drink; use them as pen stands, stands to hold your dish washing brush, fill them up with change that you don’t want in your wallet. I covered my cup with three layers of paper on the top and made a slit through the center and there you have it, your college piggy bank (you’re going to need that money for laundry and err..)
The bottles particularly, can be used to store pretty much anything. One of my bottles is filled up with paper clips. The other is in the fridge so I have cold water when I need it, and another one makes for an easy lime-juice dispenser.

3. Don’t hold back, get a huge trash can.

This is by far the most convenient thing I have done for myself in the apartment. We bought a 55 gallon trash can from Walmart and now we save on trash bags all the time…and the best part? We don’t have to take it out very often. If you want to budget and you’re lazy, this is a win-win. Moreover, these giant cans have a cover, so they don’t stink up the apartment even if you decide to dump food that’s days old because, come on, let’s face it, every college student forgets to throw away old food for a long time because they actually forgot or they’re just procrastinating.

4. Keep those twist ties you get with almost anything you buy.

You know when you buy a loaf of bread or something that has wound up wire over it? And you decide to throw it away? Don’t. These things can come in handy at any time in your apartment. Leaving for summer and don’t want to let the cutlery just lie around? Use this to wind up the spoons together and store them away. Phone charger too long for where its plugged in? Wind it up a bit and hold it together with this! Tape can make it sticky, very easily. Opened a pack of Doritos and want to save it for later? Don’t leave it open, use these!

5. Use an old or cheap blanket as a window blind.

I’m not kidding, some blankets at Walmart go for less than $8, and if you are renting an apartment, it’s highly unlikely that it will come with fancy blackout curtains. Get a blanket, and use command hooks to hang it up right around your window. Put two loops at the bottom corners so you can roll it up and hook it to the hooks on the top to make a blind, there you go! Cheap and easy blackout curtains to help you sleep in after that rough Friday night.

6. Use over-the-door hooks.

You don’t want to have to deal with putting 5 command hooks up when you know you need them there, and you want something that you can load up more than just the capacity of those sticky magicians. They’re cheap and there are so many options on Amazon. There are no restrictions for these and you do not need to do any work, just stick the hooks over the door so they hold on and hang away! In any case, most rental apartments will not allow you to drill holes and screw in hooks and this is the only alternative to get hooks as strong.

7. Get LED strip lighting for your apartment.

Ever get that feeling when you don’t want any lights on but also want to be able to see and move around your room? Here’s your solution, and it’s pretty cool. These lights go for anywhere between $15-$25, and they come in lengths up to 32 feet! You simply put them across the top of your room’s walls with command hooks (of course) or if the wall is flat enough then you can even use their built-in adhesive. They have a remote, and they are LEDs, so they’re barely using any electricity. They have brightness control and color changing capabilities for when you’re throwing that Saturday night party. It’s easy, cheap and will impress any guests. They can set the mood, become an ideal everyday light and even become party strobe lights.

8. When life gives you lemons, CLEAN!

You know how after you make a glass of lemonade, you throw out the squeezed lemon…right? Wrong. This is the perfect way to save yourself from over-spraying the kitchen with Febreze. Just throw that thing into the sink disposal, run it and run warm water as you do so. Crushed lemon will release a fresh aroma, much better than using any spray since it’s acidity will clean as well. Got a dirty or stinky microwave? Grab any microwavable mid-sized bowl and fill it halfway with water, cut a lemon in half and squeeze both halves only a little into the water, not all the way. Now dump them into the water and microwave for 3 minutes. Once it’s done, your microwave will smell fresh and will be much easier to clean!

9. Use a giant bowl of water to keep your room air from being too dry.

The weather gets dry and cold in the winter, which means we all start having dry hands, and feel really dehydrated. Our apartment heaters can be the culprit in this dry air problem. A simple solution is to take a large bowl, fill it with water and simply place it in your room. This works, and it works well. It will keep the air slightly humid and especially if you’re from a less cold region, you will be saved from terrible and painful dry skin. Save your money and don’t buy those heavy and space hogging humidifiers, do this instead!

10. Use Brita filters!

If you’re the kind that likes to drink bottled or filtered water, you’d be spending at least $4 a day or more than those who drink tap water. But what if I said you could drink filtered tap water? Look no further! If you don’t already know about Brita jugs and filters, you need to know. These things have filters built into them, so it’s as easy as filling up a jug by turning on the faucet. It even reminds you when to change a filter, and no its not every week, it’s around every 4 months.

11. Buy everything in bulk.

If you’re at Walmart and you love getting orange juice for that night, it is very likely that you will come back to get more. Instead, save yourself the trouble and the money…buy a giant jug of it, or even four jugs of it. Buying bigger packs saves more than you think, and you will have to make less trips, so there’s time and energy saved too! This applies to pretty much anything from frozen food to toilet paper. I would even recommend buying the large boxes of laundry detergent/pods. You’re not going to stop doing laundry, so you might as well stock up.

Using Amazon’s ‘dash buttons’ is a pretty neat way to be lazy too. Just press the button when you’re running low and there you have it, delivered supplies to your doorstep. They even have these things for Red bull and Gatorade cases, and they don’t cost anything extra. You get a discount on your first order that matches the amount you paid to get the button so that’s pretty neat and convenient.

12. Buy Windex, a lot of it.

This magical solution we all know is much more useful than you think it is. You can use it to clean counters, tables, wall stains, floor spills and pretty much anything that your apartment life can throw at you. Simply buy a refill after your first spray bottle. Fear not, Windex can even clean your stained bathroom mirror very easily so you can look good and feel fresh every morning!

13. Buy space-savers for literally everything.

I have one for snacks, one for stationery and one for cutlery. We also have one in the living room which helps when we simply leave our stuff out. There are sizes that fit on a table to keep small items and sizes that stand alone and can even be used as a bedside table or in my case, a place to keep the bowl of water so the air doesn’t get too dry!

14. Look into Mainstays products.

They make inexpensive household items such as the space-savers I mentioned. They also make furniture, so if you’re looking for a desk in your room, a chair, a comfortable chair to watch TV in, sheets, blankets and anything else you might need, they probably have it. Remember, most of these items are the cheapest when the semester starts and the large stores are having their sales. Most of my kitchen, including plates, cooking vessels and cutlery is from Mainstays, they have great deals and it’s definitely worth it.

15. Add some Throw Pillows!

Throw pillows are a great way to spruce up your apartment without spending too much     money. They come in millions of prints, so you’ll always be able to find ones that match your personal style and the look you’re going for!

16. Use decorative baskets as opposed to plastic storage bins.

Baskets are a great alternative to plastic storage bins. They act as decor but keep your things organized just as well! There are so many cute basket options out there whether you enjoy wired baskets, canvas, or woven ones and they come in all shapes and sizes to fit into whatever space you need!

17. Wall art makes a huge difference!

Dress up any boring drab walls you have in your apartment with some wall art. The possibilites here are endless! You can even buy just the prints or download prints from sites like Etsy and add your own frame.

18. Add slipcovers to your furniture.

Do you have an old beat up couch and can’t afford to buy a new one? No worries, just buy a slipcover. Slipcovers are awesome because they come in so many different colors and designs, and you can switch them out whenever you want a new look!

19. Make your space more inviting with picture frames.

Another cheap way to spruce up your apartment is to buy cute picture frames and fill them with your favorite pictures! It’s a great way to add a personal touch to your apartment. This will make your living space feel more cozy just like the home you grew up in!

20.  A rug.

If you don’t like your flooring, area rugs are a great way to cover it up. They come in so many different sizes that you’re bound to find one that will fit your space. A good rug can do wonders for an apartment by covering up any messed up flooring and making your apartment look bigger than it actually is.

21. Set out some candles.

They’re cheap, they smell good, and they act as decor. Candles have a great way of turning any drab apartment into an inviting atmosphere!

22. Decorate with artificial succulents.

Fake succulents are great because they require no maintenance. And unlike real plants, you don’t have to worry about replacing it when it dies.

23. Your table lamps can make a statement.

Instead of buying simple lamps for your end tables, get more interesting ones. Not only will they dress up the room, but they are bound to be a conversation starter.

24. Buy simple furniture.

When buying furniture, don’t buy anything crazy. Go for things that are neutral colors and won’t go out of style and can look timeless in any setting.

25. Choose the right comforter.

Your comforter can make or a break a room, and unless you are absolutely in love with a printed comforter, I wouldn’t buy it. Instead, go for a solid color, preferably a neutral. This way you aren’t limited on how you decorate your room. The solid color also gives the room a very clean feel.

26. Opt for placemats.

Placemats are a super cheap way to make your dining room or kitchen look instantly more put together.

27. Get a shower curtain.

Shower curtains take up the most room in a bathroom, so make sure yours is something that people won’t mind looking at. Resist the crazy printed ones and instead, go for a simple print that will dress up your bathroom and make it seem brighter and bigger.

28. Add a good throw blanket into the mix.

Throw blankets are great because they give a cozy feel to the room and it’s always great to have a blanket nearby, but they also work as decoration.

29. Add some mirrors to your walls.

Mirrors are amazing because they make the room look bigger and they tend to draw in people’s attention.

30. If you ever need anything for your apartment, always look it up Amazon first.

When I was setting up my apartment, there were many things I found that I didn’t even know would help me so much! For example, many of my sockets have a switch extension, so I can turn them off while I am not using them, without unplugging them. This is especially useful for behind the bed and under the desk sockets, since unplugging requires a lot of effort and plugging it back in is even worse…you might even have to move the entire piece of furniture. Power strips, USB adapters and anything you can think off, it’s probably cheaper on Amazon.

Do you have any other good ideas on ways to upgrade your apartment on a budget? Share in the comments below!

*This is a sponsored post. All opinions are my own.

Featured Image source:http: //homelk.com/apartments/cute-college-apartment-bedrooms-for-girls

Tags: apartment essentials, apartment hacks, things you need for your first apartment, upgrade your apartment, upgrade your apartment on a budget, ways to upgrade apartment