Eero WiFi System Review | Digital Trends

Read article : Eero WiFi System Review | Digital Trends

One of the biggest recent movements in the networking industry is the introduction of mesh technology. This tech made its debut in 2016, promising a blanket of wireless connectivity that fills every inch of a home or office. These systems are typically sold in kits of two or more identical devices that can be spread out vertically and horizontally to create a connected web of coverage.

We’ve taken a close look at several solutions over the last several months, and now we have the Eero system in-house. This system hit the market in February of 2016, selling as a three-pack for $400, a two-pack for $300, and as a single unit for $200. That may seem rather expensive, but feature-packed, high-performance routers can cost up to $300 and broadcast from only a single point in the home or office.

Eero’s initial setup focuses on simplicity

The Eero kit we received was the three-pack shipped in a rectangular box. After opening the lid, the unit on the left sported a pull-off tab printed with the word “Start.” We lifted the unit out of the box to see a cardboard insert with instructions to download the Eero app from Google Play or Apple’s App Store. The unit’s power adapter was found sitting under this cardboard insert.

Once the app was installed on an Android device, we created a free account, positioned the first Eero unit next to the ISP’s modem, plugged the provided Ethernet cable into one of the two ports on the Eero, connected it to the modem, and fired it up. The app then proceeded to connect to the Eero unit through Bluetooth, which honestly caused us a few headaches later. However, with the initial unit, we didn’t have any problems creating the network name, password, and device location description.

Eero WiFi System review" />

Eero WiFi System review" />

The second unit is what caused the headaches. This was planted in the same location we used for other mesh network setups, but for some reason the Eero app said we were getting a poor connection to the first unit. To make matters worse, the app wouldn’t let us proceed with installing the second unit despite the connectivity issue, forcing us to relocate the unit. However, no matter where we planted the second unit, we received a poor connection message, even when it was seated next to the first Eero unit and modem.

Awesome customer support saved the day

After yanking out buckets of hair, we broke down and called technical support. A technician had us connect the second unit to the first unit via an Ethernet connection so that the two could communicate and verify they were connected. After that, we disconnected the second unit, placed it back into its original location in the next room, and balance returned to the Force. The third Eero unit gave us no problems whatsoever.

Eero is a good system for mainstream customers, but enthusiasts may want to look elsewhere.

So, what happened? The technician said it was a bad Bluetooth session. Based on his comments, this wasn’t the first case of bad Bluetooth connectivity, and drives home the point of relying solely on a Bluetooth connection to establish a network is not without problems. Customers should have access to a web-based interface via a wired connection just in case the setup process hits a roadblock. However, several of the mesh-based networking setups sold on the market seemingly ignore this type of user control.

When all was said and done, we had the first unit connected to the modem in the Dining Room, which is in the center of the house. We moved the second unit into Bedroom #3, and the third unit was placed in Bedroom #4. Thus, we created a straight line throughout the house instead of a C-shaped layout as we used for the Luma system.

While there is a lot of wireless activity in the Living Room, we wanted to make sure the blanket covered every aspect of the house, including Bedroom #4 that’s — one of two rooms converted from a garage. Since we don’t have a second floor, we wanted to create a large horizontal blanket.

Eero’s mobile app offers easy management

With everything set up, we headed back into the mobile app. The home screen shows the current internet speed, the active Eero units, and all the connected devices. Tap on an Eero icon and users will see details like broadcast strength (in bars), IP address, firmware version, model number, serial number, and more. Tap on a connected device icon to see its current activity, connection strength, which Eero it’s connected to, its IP address, MAC address, and so on. There’s a menu button on the home screen for accessing network settings.

As previously indicated, the Eero system isn’t exactly feature-rich when it comes to network customization. There’s no web-based interface here to dig into the gritty details, but rather a simple app for switching on/off a guest network, adding additional Eero units, getting help, and adjusting basic network settings. The app can be used to establish profiles, which can be used as makeshift parental controls.

For instance, parents can create a profile assigning a child to a specific connected device. The profile is locked to the device’s MAC address so that Eero can associate the child with the device no matter what IP address it uses. Thus, the parent can pause the child’s internet access or set a scheduled pause, blocking access at night, or during homework time.

As for the actual customizable network settings, these are rather slim. Users can use a custom DNS rather than the ones provided by the router, customize the DHCP server, assign a static IP address to a device, create port forwarding rules, and switch on/off Universal Plug and Play. Users have no control over switching channels, establishing channel widths, and so on.

And that’s a shame, as users should have complete control over their network. But this isn’t the first mesh-based network we’ve seen with semi-closed settings. The whole point of systems like Eero and Luma is that customers plug-and-go without having to think about the ideal channel for 2.4GHz or which security protocol to use. For the novice user, the “advanced” settings may be more than they can chew, but experienced network tweakers will find very little meat to nibble.

Eero WiFi System Compared To

Eero’s simplicity extends out to its appearance

Each Eero device is identical, sporting two gigabit Ethernet ports, a USB 2.0 port, and a power connector. They measure just 4.75 (W) x 4.75 (D) x 1.34 (H) inches, making them capable of fitting in just about anywhere in the home or office. The upper casing is a shiny white with rounded edges, while the bottom half and built-in curved “feet” feel somewhat rubbery. The USB 2.0 port, according to tech support, can’t be used at the time of this publication, but will eventually serve a purpose in the future.

The whole point of systems like Eero is that customers plug-and-go without having to think about channels or security.

Inside the Eero you’ll find a dual-core processor clocked at 1.0GHz, 512MB of system memory, and 4GB of internal storage used solely by the operating system. They also each have a Bluetooth Smart Ready component, and two internal incoming and outgoing antennas providing 2.4GHz and 5GHz bands. Each unit is capable of up to 300 megabits per second on the 2.4GHz band and up to 867Mbps on the 5GHz band.

Based on the company’s FAQ, Eero seems to believe that coverage is more important than offering the fastest wireless speeds, and that makes sense. Until the mass population has a gigabit connection to the internet, crazy fast wireless speeds are unnecessary. As Eero points out, streaming Ultra HD content to a single device requires a connection at 25Mbps.

Note that the connection issues we had with setting up the second unit had nothing to do with its ability to broadcast a network signal. Instead, the problem was with the unit trying to register itself to the account through the smartphone’s Bluetooth connection.

There’s a few other things we need to point out before we get into performance numbers. Eero supports a very basic Quality of Service capability, which may be expanded in the future to provide configurations that match specific needs for gaming, video streaming, and so on. The system does not support Point-to-Point Protocol over Ethernet (PPPoE), which is used for DSL connections. The system currently isn’t supported outside the United States either, as Eero is certified to only work on 120V power outlets.

So how does the Eero network perform?

We used four devices to check their connection speeds: one smartphone, two tablets, and a notebook. Here is what we found:

	Samsung Galaxy S7 Edge	Samsung Galaxy Tab E	Microsoft Surface 3	Lenovo Ideapad Laptop Internal	Lenovo Ideapad Laptop External
Eero Max 5GHz Speed:	867Mbps	867Mbps	867Mbps	867Mbps	867Mbps
Device Max 5GHz Speed:	867Mbps	450Mbps	867Mbps	Not Measured	433Mbps
5GHz Tested Speeds:	650Mbps	150Mbps	790Mbps	Not Measured	433Mbps
Eero Max 2.4GHz speed:	300Mbps	300Mbps	300Mbps	300Mbps	300Mbps
Device Max 2.4GHz Speed:	400Mbps	300Mbps	400Mbps	150Mbps	150Mbps
2.4 GHz Speeds:	Not Measured	150Mbps	Not Measured	72.2Mbps	Not Measured

The tested speeds are based on numbers provided by Android and Windows 10. As shown above, the Samsung Galaxy S7 Edge smartphone doesn’t hit the theoretical 867Mbps Wireless AC speed, but it didn’t reach that ceiling on similar mesh-based network setups either. Meanwhile, the Samsung Galaxy Tab E tablet is bottlenecked by having only two internal antennas (1x output, 1x input). If anything, the device with the best performance was Microsoft’s Surface 3 tablet.

As for the Lenovo laptop, the 72.2Mbps speed on the 2.4Ghz band isn’t anything new. That’s because the internal Wireless N component has one antenna for output and one for input, so the width of the wireless connection is important. Eero is likely broadcasting a footpath-sized narrow connection, and we know the laptop doubles to 150Mbps when it’s connected to a wide, freeway-like connection (we saw this with Netgear’s Orbi system). The external, dual-band Wireless N adapter we connected to the Lenovo in our test was Trendnet’s AC600 Mini Wireless USB Adapter that’s capable of up to 433Mbps on 5GHz, and up to 150Mbps on 2.4GHz.

Of course, the Lenovo laptop originally hit the market in 2013. It’s not that old, but in terms of how fast technology advances, it’s way out of date. But not every customer will have a sparkly new laptop connecting to a sparkly new mesh-based wireless network. The bottleneck suffered by the Lenovo laptop is a good example of why customers need access to the roots of the network to squeeze every drop of speed out of their wireless connection.

Mesh-based networks tend to limit customization

Unfortunately, the trend to lock down most of the settings in mesh-based networking setups appears to be a common factor save for Netgear’s Orbi system. Thus, systems like Eero and Luma may not be ideal for gamers who need full control over where data packets travel across their network. And without a real QoS service to dictate what device has priority over others, even mainstream customers may experience issues streaming content on multiple devices.

Now here are the speeds and signal strengths picked up by the Samsung Galaxy S7 Edge smartphone at various locations throughout the house:

Location	Speed	Strength	Signal
Dining Room	650Mbps	100 percent	-34 dBm
Living Room	351Mbps	62 percent	-73 dBm
Front Porch	585Mbps	91 percent	-57 dBm
Bathroom Shower	468Mbps	100 percent	-46 dBm
Laundry Room	585Mbps	82 percent	-63 dBm

The dining room is ground zero, as that’s where the first unit is connected to the modem. However, the living room took the biggest performance hit because of two walls that blocked the connection. The front door is made of glass, thus the connection to the front porch stemmed from the living room unit and the unit in bedroom #3. The laundry room had a good connection due to a somewhat direct line of sight to the unit in bedroom #4.

Eero isn’t feature-rich when it comes to customizing.

As a reference, we saw different numbers with Netgear’s two-unit Orbi setup. Using the same Android device to test the connection speeds and strengths, we saw 780Mbps in the dining room, 650Mbps in the living room, 97Mbps on the front porch, and 260Mbps standing in the bathroom shower. That said, the numbers may have everything to do with the positioning of the satellite systems, as the Orbi satellite was previously placed in the living room whereas we chose to move the second Eero unit out of the living room and into bedroom #3.

For better coverage, we presume that an additional Eero unit placed in the far corner of the living room might provide connectivity in that area, and perhaps even an additional unit located in the far corner of bedroom #1 as well. The drawback to purchasing additional units is that they cost a hefty $200 each, which isn’t cheap.

Our Take

Eero appears to be a great system for customers who want a plug-and-go solution. There’s no back-end web-based interface or detailed settings to deal with, just a mobile app to manage some of the generalized details. However, PC gamers and enthusiasts who want to control every aspect of their network may want to look elsewhere, such as Netgear’s Orbi system, which provides better detailed manageability.

Is there a better alternative?

The DT Accessory Pack

Honestly, we’ve tested quite a few of the new mesh-based setups and they appear to be similar in nature save for the Netgear Orbi system. We liked the Orbi specifically due to its robust customization capabilities. However, our current top pick in this arena is the Securifi Almond 3 router, which can be used as a mesh networking device even though it doesn’t ship as a kit. The Almond 3 also as a nifty built-in touchscreen and solid smart home support.

How long will it last?

Mesh-based networking appears to be here to stay. It may eventually replace the router due to the coverage capabilities of multiple units creating a web of connectivity as a single access point. It’s also better than adding a wireless extender to a network for filling dead spots because the signal has already degraded to a point when it’s picked up by the extender. Mesh networking promises full coverage no matter where users move throughout the home or office.

Should you buy it?

Only if budget is not a factor. The Eero three-pack kit is rather costly, and extending its coverage means shelling out $200 per additional unit. That’s a huge investment given that the mass availability of faster Wireless AD devices and networks will be in full swing by the end of 2017. Still, for now, the Eero is a good system for mainstream customers.

Nepal Packing List in February for Females

Read article : Nepal Packing List in February for Females

The following is a Nepal packing list post by Flora Baker. See all packing list posts here.

In February, Nepal is cold. In the mornings, in the shadows, after the sun goes down and whenever you’re indoors, it’s freezing. And most houses in Nepal don’t have central heating and rely on solar panels instead, so although there’s a certain amount of warmth when in the sunshine, the temperature drops rapidly when you’re out of it.

I spent a month in Kathmandu, where I volunteered at an orphanage and taught in the local school. I also spent a few days at Chitwan National Park and in Pokhara, but the vast majority of my time was spent in Kathmandu. So here are my packing tips for the capital city, suited in particular to travellers, volunteers and backpackers who aren’t going trekking.

Clothing:

Nota bene: The best tip for dressing in Nepal is to wear layers, in order to cope with a climate that changes throughout the day. That way you can strip off and layer up again, depending on the time and location. As a general rule of thumb, I always wore at least a top & long sleeved shirt, plus my fleece – and I always kept another layer in my bag too, just in case!

1 pair of jeans: warm enough to be worn in the chilly mornings/evenings or at work – plus they’re smart enough to teach in!

1 pair of lightweight full length or capri trousers: to wear during the day or when it’s particularly sunny.

1 pair of comfortable yoga pants (optional): great for long bus journeys, casual days or for some extra warmth in bed!

2 pairs of leggings: an extra layer under jeans or worn by themselves when it’s warmer.

>>Check out these great pants for traveling women.

4 – 6 tops: I took a range of strap tops, vests and sleeved t-shirts, but the tops/vests were only worn as base layers. It’s also a good idea to keep your shoulders covered, as Nepal is predominantly a Hindu country and the cultural norm dictates it.

2 long sleeved shirts/cardigans: a necessary layer addition to whatever top you’re wearing.

1 fleece: I lived in my fleece, so make sure it’s one you’re comfortable wearing a lot!

1 lightweight sweater: good for a quick extra layer that can be removed as necessary

1 waterproof jacket: I didn’t bring a waterproof with me and had to buy a fake North Face one in Thamel when the rains started. Check the weather forecast before you go, but definitely take a waterproof just in case.

5+ pairs of underwear: the exact amount is a personal preference, but do bear in mind that you could be hand washing (see below), so quick dry material is often a good suggestion.

2 – 3 bras: decide on colours when you’ve chosen what tops you’ll be packing.

Socks: I took about three pairs of socks to Kathmandu, and regretted not having more. I didn’t envisage that I’d be taking off my shoes in people’s unheated houses and wandering around the cold floors; my socks were filthy in no time, and it took me a while to find standard elasticated socks to buy instead of the typical thick hiking socks which didn’t fit inside my trainers!

* I didn’t take skirts or dresses with me to Nepal, but some of my tops were long enough to be worn over leggings. The Hindu culture doesn’t accept shoulders or knees being uncovered, plus I felt like teaching required me to be as smart as I could manage with my clothes collection – so trousers and tops sufficed.

Nepal packing list - Flora Baker in Nepal on Elephant" width="600" height="450" class="size-full wp-image-5620" />

On an elephant in Nepal

Swimwear:

The only opportunity to wear my bikini was during the elephant bathing at Chitwan National Park. I still wore leggings and a t-shirt too, but it was sensible to be in my suit!

Shoes:

Lightweight trainers: I spent the majority of my time in waterproof trainers, but I did wish I had slightly nicer shoes to wear while teaching opposite the stunning female staff at my school, all dressed in saris.

Hiking shoes with ankle support: these are essential if you’re planning on trekking. Otherwise you can get away with just wearing trainers!

Sandals/flipflops: the condition of the Nepali roads and the cold, wet weather didn’t encourage my wearing of flipflops, but they were still useful for the shower and walking around the house. Although I did succumb to the sock/flipflop combo on a few cold occasions.

>> Read more about shoes to pack for an RTW trip.

Toiletries:

There are plenty of shops and stalls selling all the basic toiletries you’ll need, but you might want to bring preferred brands with you from home.

Toothbrush & toothpaste: For minty fresh breath!

Solid shampoo & conditioner: A great way to pack up to 90 washes in a handily small size.

>>See our round-up of the best toiletries for carry-on travelers.

Deodorant: To fend off unwanted body odour.

Razor: Although I embraced the hair during my time in Kathmandu, chances are you’ll want to remove yours.

Mooncup: I recently purchased one of these babies and now am a little bit in love with it. I took tampons to Nepal but they aren’t that easy to find on the ground so I’d definitely suggest investing in a Mooncup! (We’re big supporters of menstrual cups here at HPL, and especially the Diva Cup!)

Quick dry towel: Takes up minimal space in your bag and is great for absorbing water post-shower.

Nepal packing list - Flora Baker in Nepal" width="600" height="450" class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-5621" />

Technology:

In Nepal, almost all power is run via hydroelectricity, so a system of load shedding is in place, which provides energy to different areas of the city for a few hours at a time. Although there’s an official schedule for when the accompanying power cuts occur, it’s not strictly adhered to – and this often means a lack of hot water, no electric light and a difficulty in knowing exactly when to charge your electrical items.

Often you’ll find that your area doesn’t have any electricity during the night – so if you’re out all day, a sensible option is sometimes to leave your electronics plugged in and the outlet switched on. You won’t be overcharging your appliance or rinsing the electricity as chances are it will only be on for a few hours anyway!

Laptop or tablet (plus charger): An optional choice, but they’re great to back up photos, talk to friends and family over Skype, and blog about your adventures. There are plenty of internet cafes in Thamel though.

iPod (plus charger): Listening to music is a great way to relax or keep you company on long bus journeys. It’s also a great icebreaker with the person sitting next to you!

E-Reader (plus charger): Great for reading on the go.

Camera (plus charger): Indispensable if you want to take photos to show your family and friends back home. Plus Nepali children (and adults!) adore looking at photos of themselves!

>>Take a look at our travel photography packing list for gear to get the perfect shot.

Adapters: Because Nepal is a developing country, it has a few different types of socket, including the European and the Indian, so taking a universal travel adaptor is probably your best bet.

Extras:

Sleeping bag and/or silk liner: Most guest houses and hostels will provide you with sheets and/or bedding, but I like to be prepared and at least have a liner with me. It’s an extra layer of warmth plus you know it’s clean!

A bandanna / scarf to cover your nose and mouth: Kathmandu has some of the most polluted air in the world, and if you don’t cover your face when walking around the city and weaving through the traffic, it’s absolutely certain that you’ll get a cough and/or a cold.

Sunglasses & sunscreen: I didn’t wear sunscreen for my first few days in Nepal because I was so cold I assumed the sun wasn’t strong. Then I endured a red, burnt nose to go with my head cold! The sun in Nepal is pretty high risk, so definitely keep a bottle of sunscreen to hand – and wear sunglasses when it’s bright.

Hat & gloves: Always good to have with you, but they can also be found in abundance in Thamel.

Head torch: I found mine indispensable in a number of situations; when the streetlights went out on a particularly pothole filled road; navigating my way through the house to the bathroom; and one particularly scary toilet experience.

Medicine (in particular, diarrhoea medication): Three days after I started my anti malarials (in preparation for travelling onwards to India) I came down with an acute attack of diarrhoea. I still don’t know if it was a direct side effect of my anti malarials but it lasted for about three weeks and was utterly horrific. You should never be without sachets of dioralytes and Imodium.

Refillable water bottle: The tap water is not safe to drink in Nepal, but you can often find filtrated water in large barrels at hostels, shops and hotel receptions, which charge a small fee to fill up your own bottle.

Eye mask and earplugs: The streets of Kathmandu can be very noisy, even at night. If you’re staying in a hostel then these two items are usually indispensable.

Copies of important documents (passport, vaccination certificates, travel insurance) & spare passport photos: Because you never know when you might be asked to show them.

Shopping:

Thamel is the main tourist district of Kathmandu, and it’s stuffed to the gills with all the kit you’ll ever want or need for hiking; every slogan slapped across a tshirt for souvenir shopping; and brightly coloured pyjama trousers for attempting to blend in with the local hippies.

Bartering is expected in Nepal, and it’s advisable to be even more confident about the prices you haggle for in Kathmandu – and Thamel in particular. That said, there’s obviously a limit to how low you can go without taking it too far – most of the stall owners make very little money so it should be kept in mind.

In terms of beauty regimes, threading is very common in Nepal. So if you want some perfectly defined eyebrows while travelling then don’t hesitate to pop in to a local salon – and you might even make friends with the women working there!

There are plenty of launderettes in Thamel for clothes washing, but depending on where you stay you could find yourself doing a fair bit of hand washing in the ubiquitous wash tubs that live in every Asian bathroom. With this in mind, make sure you take some detergent or clothes soap – and perhaps consider if the clothes you take are quick dry or a real chore to wash by hand! After days of damp clothes littering my cold bedroom, I started wishing I’d brought slightly thinner material with me…

What would you add or subtract to make this Nepal packing list the best it can be? Add your thoughts in the comments below!

* * * * *

About the Author: Flora is a travelling storyteller with a self-penned obsession for the weirdnesses of the world. She chronicles her adventures at Flora The Explorer, but you can also find her waxing lyrical about various travelling oddities on Facebook and Twitter.

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How to Lay Tile: Install a Ceramic Tile Floor In the Bathroom

Read article : How to Lay Tile: Install a Ceramic Tile Floor In the Bathroom

Cover up an old floor

Whether you’re replacing an old shabby floor or installing a new one, you can’t beat ceramic or stone tile for durability and appearance. When laid properly, it’s virtually a forever floor that requires almost no care and maintenance. And you can select materials from a vast array of colors and textures. We’ll cover how to lay tile in a few steps.

What’s equally attractive is that you can lay a first-class tile floor yourself, often in one weekend, and save the $500 to $1,500 cost of hiring a pro.

The key to keeping the job simple is to cover the old vinyl or other flooring with a new thin underlayment that gives you a fresh, clean start. No messy tear-out and repair. In this article, we’ll demonstrate how to install a thin “backer board” over the old floor. Then we’ll cover tile-setting techniques, from layout and cutting to grout and cleanup.

This is a two-day project for most bathrooms, even if you don’t have any previous tile experience. If you’re comfortable using basic hand tools and have the patience to align tiles just right, you can handle this job. The entire cost of this project for a typical bath ranges from $300 to $600.

Estimating the Cost of a Tile Project

The tile itself will be your biggest cost, so start by measuring the square footage of the floor. Then add 10 percent for cutting waste. If you choose a more complex layout than the simple grid pattern we used, your waste will be greater. Most tile sells for $5 to $15 per square foot, but you can spend as little as $3 or more than $50. If you have to install backer board, add $2 per square foot to the cost of the tile. Other materials will cost about $90, regardless of bathroom size. The tile tools you’ll need (including a tile cutter) will total $60 to $80.

Assess your floor

The success of any tile job depends on a solid base, that is, a floor that flexes very little as you walk across it. If you have a concrete subfloor, this isn’t an issue. You can lay tile directly over the existing vinyl as long as it’s well adhered.

If possible, avoid tearing out vinyl flooring. Leaving it in place saves time, of course, but it also reduces asbestos hazard concerns. Asbestos was used in sheet vinyl and vinyl tile until the mid-1980s. By leaving the vinyl undisturbed, you won’t risk sending asbestos fibers into the air.

If you have a wood subfloor, there’s a good chance that you’ll have to install backer board over your vinyl to make the floor thicker and stiff enough for tile. The easiest way to see flooring thickness is to pull off a floor register. Otherwise look for plumbing passageways through the floor. As a last resort, drill through the floor with a 1-in. or larger spade bit (your new floor will cover the hole later). To prevent asbestos dust from becoming airborne, mist the bit with a spray bottle as you drill. In addition to floor thickness, you’ll need to determine joist spacing. If there’s an unfinished basement or crawlspace below the floor, simply measure the spacing. If there’s a ceiling, probe for joists with a drill bit.

If the joists are spaced 16 in. apart, the layers of structural flooring beneath the vinyl should add up to at least 1-1/8 in. With joists every 24 in., you need 1-1/2 in. If your floor is too thin for tile, add a thicker layer of tile backer board. Our floor required 1/4-in.-thick backer. Yours might need 1/2-in. backer to reach the minimum thickness. If your floor is already thick enough, you can simply prep the vinyl floor (Photos 1 – 4) and skip the backer installation (Photos 5 – 8). Then tile directly over the vinyl, following the same steps we used over backer board.

Regardless of the type of subfloor, there are two situations where you can’t leave vinyl in place: First, if large areas of the vinyl are loose, don’t set tile or backer over it. Small loose spots are acceptable and easy to deal with (Photo 4).

Second, “cushioned” sheet vinyl must be removed before you can set tile. Cushioned vinyl has a foam backing that makes it noticeably thicker and softer than standard vinyl flooring. It’s too spongy to support tile or backer board. Before removing it, call your local health department for instructions on how to check for asbestos and proper procedures if asbestos is present.

Gather Advice While You Shop

Home centers carry everything you need for this project, but begin shopping at a tile store, where you’re more likely to get expert advice. Make a quick sketch of your floor plan and jot down all the dimensions. Also take a photo of the floor at the doorway. This will help the tile store staff recommend a “transition” to neatly join the tile to the hallway flooring. Transitions come in different styles to suit any situation.

When you choose the tile itself, ask if it requires any special installation steps. Some tile, for example, should be coated with grout release before grouting. Also ask about cutting techniques for the tile. You’ll use sanded grout for the floor. Ask if sanded caulk is available in a color that matches your grout for the floor/tub and floor/wall tile joints.

Prepare the room

First, get the toilet out of your way. Stuff a rag in the hole to block sewer gases. If your home only has one toilet, you can leave it in place until you install the backer board. Keep a supply of wax rings on hand if you plan to reinstall the toilet at the end of each day.

If you expect to keep your vanity for many years to come, leave it in place and tile around it. But if you think you might replace it, remove it now. When the job’s done, you can reinstall the old vanity or put in a new one. Having the vanity out of the way gives you more workspace, and you won’t have to cut backer board and tiles to fit around it. This also eliminates the floor repair problem if you install a smaller vanity or pedestal sink in the future.

Pull off the baseboard or plan to add base shoe molding. This leads to a neater-looking job because the edges of the tile will be covered later—jagged cuts and slight measuring mistakes are hidden. If your baseboard has base shoe molding, remove only the base shoe. Backer board and tile will raise your floor 3/4 in. or more. So you’ll have to remove and undercut the door. To mark the door for cutting, stack backer board, tile and two layers of cardboard on the floor (see Photo 3). Mark the door 1/2 in. above the stack, remove the door and cut off the bottom.

Scrub, screw and patch the floor

Photo 1: Scrub the floor with stripper

Remove the baseboard and toilet. Using an abrasive pad, scrub the floor hard with water mixed with vinyl floor stripper.

Photo 2: Drive screws into the floor joists

Mark the floor joists with chalk lines and drive 2-1/2-in. screws every 8 in. Don’t leave any screw heads protruding.

Photo 3: Cut the door trim to accommodate tile

Undercut door trim using a jamb saw or handsaw. A piece of backer board, tile and two layers of cardboard raise the saw to the correct height above the floor.

Photo 4: Fill low spots with thin-set

Cut out any loose sections of vinyl with a utility knife. Fill the void with thin-set using the flat edge of a notched trowel.

Scrub the floor with a vinyl floor stripper following the manufacturer’s instructions. The stripper will dissolve wax and other residue. Scrub hard with an abrasive scouring pad (Photo 1). The tiny scratches left by scrubbing help the thin-set bond better.

Next, drive screws through the floor into the joists (Photo 2). This ensures that the subfloor and underlayment are securely fastened. If there’s an unfinished basement below the floor, locating the joists is easy: Go to the basement and drill a couple of 1/4-in. holes up through the floor next to a joist. If you can’t locate the joists from below, pick a spot near one wall and drill a hole. If the bit breaks through into hollow space, move over 1 in. and drill another hole. Keep going until you hit a joist. Then go to the opposite wall and find the other end of the joist. Measure at intervals of 16 or 24 in. from the first joist to locate the others.

While you’re driving screws, look for any spots where the vinyl has loosened from the floor. Cut out loose spots and fill them (Photo 4). If there are any copper pipes that pass through the floor, wrap them with duct tape at floor level. Cement-based thin-set and grout can corrode copper.

Install backer board

Photo 5: Install backer board over the floor

Cover the floor with backer board. Cut inside corners, circles and curves with a drywall saw. Space pieces 1/8 in. apart and hold each one in place with two temporary screws.

Drywall saw

Use a drywall saw to cut corners, circles and curves in backer board.

Photo 6: Score and snap the backer board

Make straight cuts with a scoring knife. Make three or four scoring passes, then snap the backer over a 2×4. When all the pieces have been laid out, label them and set them aside.

Scoring knife

Use a scoring knife to score the backer board.

Photo 7: Trowel on the thin-set

Comb out a bed of thin-set just large enough for each piece of backer board using a 1/4-in. notched trowel held at a 45-degree angle. Screw the backer down before spreading thin-set for the next piece.

Notched trowel

Use a 1/4-in. notched trowel to spread the thin-set over the floor.

Photo 8: Cover the joints

Press adhesive-backed mesh tape over the joints and skim over the tape with thin-set. When the thin-set is firm but not fully hardened, scrape away any ridges with a putty knife.

The backer board is fastened with a combination of screws and thin-set adhesive. Cut and lay out all the pieces before you mix the thin-set (Photos 5 and 6). You can run the sheets in any direction, but be sure to stagger the joints so you never have four corners meeting at one point. Leave a 1/8-in. space between the sheets and along the vanity, tub or shower. The gap along walls must be at least 1/8 in. wide, but a wider gap (about 1/2 in.) makes the panels easier to set in place.

After cutting and fitting, label the location of each one and set them all aside. Vacuum the floor and have your drill and screws ready to go before you mix the thin-set. Read the thin-set’s label. Spread the thin-set with a 1/4-in. notched trowel. Comb in one direction so air can escape when you embed the backer (Photo 7). Drive screws every 6 in. around the perimeter of each piece and every 8 in. “in the field” (across the face of the panel). If the leftover thin-set is still workable, you can immediately embed mesh tape over the joints (Photo 8).

If the thin-set has become too stiff or chunky, mix a new batch. Use “alkali-resistant” tape that’s meant for backer board. While the tape coat of thin-set hardens, run a putty knife over all the screw heads to scrape off the “mushroom” bulges around screws. Drive in any protruding screw heads you come across.

CAUTION!

Cement products like thin-set and grout draw moisture from skin and can even cause burns that require medical attention. While most pros work bare-handed, wear gloves if you have any special sensitivity. Also wear eye protection while mixing thin-set and grout.

Figure A: Ceramic Tile Over Vinyl

Everything you need for this project is available at home centers. Most of what you need is also available at tile stores.

Careful layout pays off

Photo 9: Test your layout to avoid small pieces along the walls

Dry-lay tile to determine the best layout. Start with centered rows, leaving equal spaces at walls. Then reposition rows until you find the optimal layout.

Photo 10: Attach guide boards to guide the layout

Screw guide boards to the floor following your chosen layout. Position the guides so you can lay all the field tiles without moving the guides. Make sure the guides are at right angles by measuring out a 3-4-5 triangle.

Too often, tile novices simply start setting tile in a corner and continue along two walls until the floor is covered. Sometimes they get lucky and the floor looks good. But more often this method leads to trouble:

They end up with awkward-looking, thin slivers of tile along a prominent wall or at the doorway. And the tile looks even worse when walls are badly out of square or crooked—a straight grout line running too close to a wall emphasizes the wall’s imperfections.

Whether you’re laying a simple grid pattern like we show here, or a diagonal pattern with a border, the best tile layout usually calls for centering full tiles between walls so the partial tiles along the edges will end up all the same size. Don’t rely on your tape measure and mental arithmetic. Rip open a carton of tile, grab a handful of spacers and experiment with your layout on the floor.

To begin, center rows of tile between walls so you have equal spaces along walls that face each other (Photo 9). Set the two rows parallel to the two most prominent walls. Then make adjustments, trying to achieve these three goals:

• Use full tiles at doorways and along the bathtub or shower. These are usually the only places where the edges of the floor aren’t covered by baseboard. If you use full tiles in these exposed spots, you don’t have to worry about making smooth, perfect cuts.
• Avoid narrow tiles along walls. Ideally, you’ll end up with tiles cut to half size or larger. Avoid cutting tile to widths less than 2 in.
• Minimize cutting and try to avoid difficult cuts. For example: Cutting tile to an L-shape to fit around an outside corner is especially difficult when one arm of the “L” is less than 2 in. wide. The arm tends to break off as you cut.

Chances are, your layout won’t meet all these goals. Because the shower stall was the focal point in our bathroom, we made it our No. 1 layout priority. We chose to use full tiles in front of the shower. That left us with 3-in.-wide tiles along the opposite wall, which was less prominent. We also chose to center the tile rows on the shower; that meant we had to use cut tiles at the doorway.

Once you determine a layout, establish lines to guide your tile positioning. The usual method is to snap chalk lines on the floor. But chalk lines are hard to see after you’ve spread thin-set, and one row of tile may slip as you set the next row. Here’s a more reliable guide: Choose straight boards a foot shorter than the length and width of the room. Tape one edge of each board so thin-set won’t stick to them.

Then screw the boards to the floor at a right angle to form a guide that eliminates guesswork and shifting (Photo 10).

Video: Create Your Own Floor Tile Layout

Planning the layout for a tile project is usually the hardest and most time- consuming step. Watch this video to learn how a pro does it. You’ll see how to snap chalk lines and make sure they are perfectly square. Plus, you’ll learn how to avoid unsightly narrow, difficult-to-cut tiles along a wall. Don’t start a tile project until you’ve watch this video!

Set the tile (finally!)

Photo 11: Set the full tiles

Comb out a few square feet of thin-set and set tile against the guides. Continue until all the full tiles are in place. Tip: Watch for squeeze-out between tiles and rake it out with tile spacers.

Spacers detail

Keep the gaps between tiles even by using spacers

Photo 12: Spread thin-set and set the perimeter tiles.

Cut and set the perimeter tiles after the thin-set beneath the full tiles has hardened. In spaces too narrow for your trowel, comb thin-set onto the backs of tiles.

It’s usually easiest—and most efficient—to set tile in two phases: First set all the full “field” tiles (Photo 11). Then, when the thin-set has hardened for several hours, cut all the perimeter tiles and set them (Photo 12). Here are some tips for both phases of the job:

• The trowel you use for setting tile may be different from the one you used to embed the backer. The thin-set label tells you which notch size to use relative to tile size.
• Dampen the backer with a sponge just before applying thin-set. This keeps the thin-set from drying out too quickly.
• Comb the thin-set in one direction so air pockets won’t be trapped under tile.
• Open three or four cartons and mix the tiles as you set them. Pattern and color vary slightly from one carton to the next.
• Don’t just set each tile into place; press down on the tile and wiggle it to embed it firmly in the thin-set.
• Watch for “tipped” corners. When you press a tile in place, it’s easy to tilt it slightly so that one corner stands higher or lower than neighboring tiles.
• When you complete a section of tile, inspect it before moving on. Make sure the tiles line up correctly and spacers are in place. Wipe any thin-set off the face of tiles with a damp sponge.
• When the thin-set becomes chunky or too stiff, throw it away and mix more. Never try to extend the life of thin-set or grout by adding water.
• Cut perimeter tile so that caulked joints (at tub) are the same width as grouted joints.

Prepare the floor for grout

Photo 13: Install an extension ring over the toilet flange

Remove the old screws from the toilet flange and apply a heavy bead of silicone caulk. Fasten the extension ring over the old flange with stainless steel or brass screws.

Photo 14: Install the transition strip

Glue the transition into place with construction adhesive. If carpet meets the transition, you may have to add a new tack strip.

Photo 15: Stuff backer rod along the wall

Push backer rod into joints that will be caulked later. The foam rod keeps grout out of joints. After grouting, pull out the rod and caulk the joints.

When all the tiles are in place and the thin-set has hardened, remove all the spacers. Next, raise the toilet flange by adding an extension ring or two (Photo 13). The extended flange should be flush with or higher than the surrounding tile.

When you grout, fill in between the flange and tile. That way, any future leak around the flange will show up on the bathroom floor instead of on the ceiling below. If you plan to use a glue-down transition as we did, this is the time to install it.

Here’s how we dealt with our transition: First, we removed the old metal strip that covered the carpet’s edge. Then we cut our transition strip to fit between the door jambs using a miter saw. Next, we added a tack strip to hold the carpet in place. Before we could glue the transition to the floor (Photo 14), we had to remove a thin strip of the old vinyl floor.

Grout is too brittle to handle the slight shifting movements that are normal in any room. Keep grout out of joints wherever the floor meets the tub, shower, vanity or walls (Photo 15).

Pack the joints with grout

Photo 16: Grout the joints

Work the grout back and forth across the floor, diagonal to the joints and holding the float at a 45-degree angle. Then scrape off the excess grout, holding the float almost upright.

The thin-set directions will tell you how soon you can grout the floor—usually 24 hours. Grouting isn’t complex. Just plop a couple of scoops of grout onto the floor in a corner, work the grout into joints (Photo 16) and scrape off the excess grout before moving to the next section. In addition:

• Mix the grout to a mashed-potatoes consistency. Adding extra liquid makes grout easier to work with but weakens it.
• Don’t just spread the grout over the joints; press hard to pack it into the joints. If you’re doing it right, your forearm will get a good workout.
• Whether you’re filling joints or scraping off excess grout, always push the float diagonally across the tiles.
• Scrape off the excess to leave tile as clean as you can. The less grout you leave on the tiles, the easier cleanup will be.
• When you’re done, cover the grout bucket with a plastic bag and set it in a cool place to slow the hardening process. During cleanup, you may find spots that need a little extra.

Grout cleanup

Photo 17: Clean the tiles

Wipe grout off the tile surface with a damp sponge. Wipe gently on the first pass so you don’t pull grout out of the joints. Rinse the sponge often.

Clean the surface of the tile when the grout is stiff enough to stay put in the joints but still soft enough to wipe off the tile surface. During hot, dry weather, grout can become difficult to wipe away in just 10 minutes, so get ready for cleanup before you even mix the grout. You’ll need two buckets of clean water, two sponges, a synthetic scouring pad and a dry rag.

As soon as you’re done grouting, go to the first section you grouted and wipe across a joint with a damp sponge. If the sponge pulls grout out of the joint, wait five minutes and try again. In cool, damp weather, the grout may stay too soft for an hour. When the grout is hard enough, gently wipe the tile with a damp sponge.

Rinse the sponge frequently as you wipe the entire floor (Photo 17). If you come across tough spots, scrub them with the scouring pad. Be careful where you put your feet and knees—don’t mar your perfect grout joints.

Immediately after the first pass, grab the second bucket of clean water and the fresh sponge and make a second, more thorough pass. Then, as the tile surface dries, wipe it with a dry terry cloth. The dry haze should buff off easily. If not, go for fresh water and sponge the floor again. If you can’t get rid of the haze, don’t panic. Products that remove haze are available wherever tile is sold.

Let the grout cure overnight before you caulk joints, set the toilet or reinstall baseboard. Grout sealer is a good precaution against staining: Some products can be applied 24 hours after grouting; others require a two- to three-week wait. If you have leftover tile or grout, keep them in case you have to make repairs in the future. Be sure to write down the brand, color and retailer of the tile.

How NOT to Save Money on a Tile Project

I’m a devout cheapskate, but when it comes to buying thin-set and grout, I grab the most expensive products on the shelf. More expensive thin-sets and grouts generally contain a higher proportion of the polymers that improve adhesion, durability and stain resistance.

In most situations, cheaper products would perform just fine. But if I can reduce the risks of loose tiles or cracked grout by spending an extra $30 on a typical bathroom project, I consider that a bargain.

Liquid additive is another smart investment. If the thin-set or grout label says you can mix it with water or an additive, use additive. These liquids (labeled “latex, ” “polymer” or “acrylic”) are meant to improve adhesion and stain resistance. But as a bonus, they produce a slick, creamy consistency. Thin-set combs out more smoothly, grout flows easily into joints, and both remain workable longer.

Also buy a mixer for your drill. Mixers come in various styles and sizes. Go easy on the trigger. If you run the drill at full speed, you can create millions of tiny air bubbles, which will weaken the mix.

Tile cutting tools

Tile cutter

A tile cutter is the fastest way to cut tile. Just push the handle forward and a small wheel scores the tile. Then push the handle down and the tile snaps in two. You can’t beat a tile cutter for convenience. It makes no mess and you can drag it around the room as you work. But a tile cutter has zero versatility. It makes straight cuts across the entire tile—no curves or corner cuts. Cutting 1 in. or less off a tile can be difficult or impossible. You can rent one at rental centers and some tile shops.

Wet saw

A wet saw cuts with a diamond blade while water cools the blade and eliminates dust. You can cut notches, trim off tiny slivers of tile, cut miters and even make curves. You’ll get clean cuts in any type of tile. But wet saws are messy. They spit water and raise a cloud of gritty mist. If you use one indoors, contain the mist with curtains of plastic film and cover nearby surfaces. You can buy a small wet saw like the one shown here or rent a professional model from a tile store or home or rental center. If you only have a few cuts that require a wet saw, call a tile store. Many make cuts for a small fee.

Angle grinder

An angle grinder equipped with a diamond blade can make straight cuts, curves and notches in any type of tile. Since all your cuts are freehand, this isn’t a precision tool, but you can grind away imperfections with the tip of the blade. Use a grinder only outside. Wear a dust mask and eye protection.

Nippers

Nippers are useful for rough curves and notches. They don’t cut tile, but bite out small chunks, leaving jagged edges.

Contour gauge

A contour gauge is a great tool for marking troublesome shapes on tile. Just press it against any odd-shaped surface (like the curved corner of a bathtub) and transfer the profile to tile.

Here are the tools that can cut your tile. Buy or rent the ones that make the most sense for your project.

In addition to the tools shown here, a carbide abrasive blade that fits in a jigsaw cuts slowly but leaves fairly clean cuts in softer types of ceramic tile and natural stone. A carbide abrasive hole saw cuts perfect holes for plumbing pipes and fixtures.

A rubbing stone is simply an abrasive block, similar to the wheel in a bench grinder. Use it to smooth sharp or slightly chipped cuts that will be exposed.

Additional Information

Required Tools for this Project

Have the necessary tools for this DIY project lined up before you start—you’ll save time and frustration.

You’ll also need these specialty tools for working with tile and backer board:
Scoring knife, Margin trowel, Tile cutter, 4-in. diamond blade, Drill mixer, Offset saw, Tile cutter, Nippers, Wet saw
You can also use an angle grinder for cutting tile.

How to Lay Tile: Install a Ceramic Tile Floor In the Bathroom

Read article : How to Lay Tile: Install a Ceramic Tile Floor In the Bathroom

Cover up an old floor

Whether you’re replacing an old shabby floor or installing a new one, you can’t beat ceramic or stone tile for durability and appearance. When laid properly, it’s virtually a forever floor that requires almost no care and maintenance. And you can select materials from a vast array of colors and textures. We’ll cover how to lay tile in a few steps.

What’s equally attractive is that you can lay a first-class tile floor yourself, often in one weekend, and save the $500 to $1,500 cost of hiring a pro.

The key to keeping the job simple is to cover the old vinyl or other flooring with a new thin underlayment that gives you a fresh, clean start. No messy tear-out and repair. In this article, we’ll demonstrate how to install a thin “backer board” over the old floor. Then we’ll cover tile-setting techniques, from layout and cutting to grout and cleanup.

This is a two-day project for most bathrooms, even if you don’t have any previous tile experience. If you’re comfortable using basic hand tools and have the patience to align tiles just right, you can handle this job. The entire cost of this project for a typical bath ranges from $300 to $600.

Estimating the Cost of a Tile Project

The tile itself will be your biggest cost, so start by measuring the square footage of the floor. Then add 10 percent for cutting waste. If you choose a more complex layout than the simple grid pattern we used, your waste will be greater. Most tile sells for $5 to $15 per square foot, but you can spend as little as $3 or more than $50. If you have to install backer board, add $2 per square foot to the cost of the tile. Other materials will cost about $90, regardless of bathroom size. The tile tools you’ll need (including a tile cutter) will total $60 to $80.

Assess your floor

The success of any tile job depends on a solid base, that is, a floor that flexes very little as you walk across it. If you have a concrete subfloor, this isn’t an issue. You can lay tile directly over the existing vinyl as long as it’s well adhered.

If possible, avoid tearing out vinyl flooring. Leaving it in place saves time, of course, but it also reduces asbestos hazard concerns. Asbestos was used in sheet vinyl and vinyl tile until the mid-1980s. By leaving the vinyl undisturbed, you won’t risk sending asbestos fibers into the air.

If you have a wood subfloor, there’s a good chance that you’ll have to install backer board over your vinyl to make the floor thicker and stiff enough for tile. The easiest way to see flooring thickness is to pull off a floor register. Otherwise look for plumbing passageways through the floor. As a last resort, drill through the floor with a 1-in. or larger spade bit (your new floor will cover the hole later). To prevent asbestos dust from becoming airborne, mist the bit with a spray bottle as you drill. In addition to floor thickness, you’ll need to determine joist spacing. If there’s an unfinished basement or crawlspace below the floor, simply measure the spacing. If there’s a ceiling, probe for joists with a drill bit.

If the joists are spaced 16 in. apart, the layers of structural flooring beneath the vinyl should add up to at least 1-1/8 in. With joists every 24 in., you need 1-1/2 in. If your floor is too thin for tile, add a thicker layer of tile backer board. Our floor required 1/4-in.-thick backer. Yours might need 1/2-in. backer to reach the minimum thickness. If your floor is already thick enough, you can simply prep the vinyl floor (Photos 1 – 4) and skip the backer installation (Photos 5 – 8). Then tile directly over the vinyl, following the same steps we used over backer board.

Regardless of the type of subfloor, there are two situations where you can’t leave vinyl in place: First, if large areas of the vinyl are loose, don’t set tile or backer over it. Small loose spots are acceptable and easy to deal with (Photo 4).

Second, “cushioned” sheet vinyl must be removed before you can set tile. Cushioned vinyl has a foam backing that makes it noticeably thicker and softer than standard vinyl flooring. It’s too spongy to support tile or backer board. Before removing it, call your local health department for instructions on how to check for asbestos and proper procedures if asbestos is present.

Gather Advice While You Shop

Home centers carry everything you need for this project, but begin shopping at a tile store, where you’re more likely to get expert advice. Make a quick sketch of your floor plan and jot down all the dimensions. Also take a photo of the floor at the doorway. This will help the tile store staff recommend a “transition” to neatly join the tile to the hallway flooring. Transitions come in different styles to suit any situation.

When you choose the tile itself, ask if it requires any special installation steps. Some tile, for example, should be coated with grout release before grouting. Also ask about cutting techniques for the tile. You’ll use sanded grout for the floor. Ask if sanded caulk is available in a color that matches your grout for the floor/tub and floor/wall tile joints.

Prepare the room

First, get the toilet out of your way. Stuff a rag in the hole to block sewer gases. If your home only has one toilet, you can leave it in place until you install the backer board. Keep a supply of wax rings on hand if you plan to reinstall the toilet at the end of each day.

If you expect to keep your vanity for many years to come, leave it in place and tile around it. But if you think you might replace it, remove it now. When the job’s done, you can reinstall the old vanity or put in a new one. Having the vanity out of the way gives you more workspace, and you won’t have to cut backer board and tiles to fit around it. This also eliminates the floor repair problem if you install a smaller vanity or pedestal sink in the future.

Pull off the baseboard or plan to add base shoe molding. This leads to a neater-looking job because the edges of the tile will be covered later—jagged cuts and slight measuring mistakes are hidden. If your baseboard has base shoe molding, remove only the base shoe. Backer board and tile will raise your floor 3/4 in. or more. So you’ll have to remove and undercut the door. To mark the door for cutting, stack backer board, tile and two layers of cardboard on the floor (see Photo 3). Mark the door 1/2 in. above the stack, remove the door and cut off the bottom.

Scrub, screw and patch the floor

Photo 1: Scrub the floor with stripper

Remove the baseboard and toilet. Using an abrasive pad, scrub the floor hard with water mixed with vinyl floor stripper.

Photo 2: Drive screws into the floor joists

Mark the floor joists with chalk lines and drive 2-1/2-in. screws every 8 in. Don’t leave any screw heads protruding.

Photo 3: Cut the door trim to accommodate tile

Undercut door trim using a jamb saw or handsaw. A piece of backer board, tile and two layers of cardboard raise the saw to the correct height above the floor.

Photo 4: Fill low spots with thin-set

Cut out any loose sections of vinyl with a utility knife. Fill the void with thin-set using the flat edge of a notched trowel.

Scrub the floor with a vinyl floor stripper following the manufacturer’s instructions. The stripper will dissolve wax and other residue. Scrub hard with an abrasive scouring pad (Photo 1). The tiny scratches left by scrubbing help the thin-set bond better.

Next, drive screws through the floor into the joists (Photo 2). This ensures that the subfloor and underlayment are securely fastened. If there’s an unfinished basement below the floor, locating the joists is easy: Go to the basement and drill a couple of 1/4-in. holes up through the floor next to a joist. If you can’t locate the joists from below, pick a spot near one wall and drill a hole. If the bit breaks through into hollow space, move over 1 in. and drill another hole. Keep going until you hit a joist. Then go to the opposite wall and find the other end of the joist. Measure at intervals of 16 or 24 in. from the first joist to locate the others.

While you’re driving screws, look for any spots where the vinyl has loosened from the floor. Cut out loose spots and fill them (Photo 4). If there are any copper pipes that pass through the floor, wrap them with duct tape at floor level. Cement-based thin-set and grout can corrode copper.

Install backer board

Photo 5: Install backer board over the floor

Cover the floor with backer board. Cut inside corners, circles and curves with a drywall saw. Space pieces 1/8 in. apart and hold each one in place with two temporary screws.

Drywall saw

Use a drywall saw to cut corners, circles and curves in backer board.

Photo 6: Score and snap the backer board

Make straight cuts with a scoring knife. Make three or four scoring passes, then snap the backer over a 2×4. When all the pieces have been laid out, label them and set them aside.

Scoring knife

Use a scoring knife to score the backer board.

Photo 7: Trowel on the thin-set

Comb out a bed of thin-set just large enough for each piece of backer board using a 1/4-in. notched trowel held at a 45-degree angle. Screw the backer down before spreading thin-set for the next piece.

Notched trowel

Use a 1/4-in. notched trowel to spread the thin-set over the floor.

Photo 8: Cover the joints

Press adhesive-backed mesh tape over the joints and skim over the tape with thin-set. When the thin-set is firm but not fully hardened, scrape away any ridges with a putty knife.

The backer board is fastened with a combination of screws and thin-set adhesive. Cut and lay out all the pieces before you mix the thin-set (Photos 5 and 6). You can run the sheets in any direction, but be sure to stagger the joints so you never have four corners meeting at one point. Leave a 1/8-in. space between the sheets and along the vanity, tub or shower. The gap along walls must be at least 1/8 in. wide, but a wider gap (about 1/2 in.) makes the panels easier to set in place.

After cutting and fitting, label the location of each one and set them all aside. Vacuum the floor and have your drill and screws ready to go before you mix the thin-set. Read the thin-set’s label. Spread the thin-set with a 1/4-in. notched trowel. Comb in one direction so air can escape when you embed the backer (Photo 7). Drive screws every 6 in. around the perimeter of each piece and every 8 in. “in the field” (across the face of the panel). If the leftover thin-set is still workable, you can immediately embed mesh tape over the joints (Photo 8).

If the thin-set has become too stiff or chunky, mix a new batch. Use “alkali-resistant” tape that’s meant for backer board. While the tape coat of thin-set hardens, run a putty knife over all the screw heads to scrape off the “mushroom” bulges around screws. Drive in any protruding screw heads you come across.

CAUTION!

Cement products like thin-set and grout draw moisture from skin and can even cause burns that require medical attention. While most pros work bare-handed, wear gloves if you have any special sensitivity. Also wear eye protection while mixing thin-set and grout.

Figure A: Ceramic Tile Over Vinyl

Everything you need for this project is available at home centers. Most of what you need is also available at tile stores.

Careful layout pays off

Photo 9: Test your layout to avoid small pieces along the walls

Dry-lay tile to determine the best layout. Start with centered rows, leaving equal spaces at walls. Then reposition rows until you find the optimal layout.

Photo 10: Attach guide boards to guide the layout

Screw guide boards to the floor following your chosen layout. Position the guides so you can lay all the field tiles without moving the guides. Make sure the guides are at right angles by measuring out a 3-4-5 triangle.

Too often, tile novices simply start setting tile in a corner and continue along two walls until the floor is covered. Sometimes they get lucky and the floor looks good. But more often this method leads to trouble:

They end up with awkward-looking, thin slivers of tile along a prominent wall or at the doorway. And the tile looks even worse when walls are badly out of square or crooked—a straight grout line running too close to a wall emphasizes the wall’s imperfections.

Whether you’re laying a simple grid pattern like we show here, or a diagonal pattern with a border, the best tile layout usually calls for centering full tiles between walls so the partial tiles along the edges will end up all the same size. Don’t rely on your tape measure and mental arithmetic. Rip open a carton of tile, grab a handful of spacers and experiment with your layout on the floor.

To begin, center rows of tile between walls so you have equal spaces along walls that face each other (Photo 9). Set the two rows parallel to the two most prominent walls. Then make adjustments, trying to achieve these three goals:

• Use full tiles at doorways and along the bathtub or shower. These are usually the only places where the edges of the floor aren’t covered by baseboard. If you use full tiles in these exposed spots, you don’t have to worry about making smooth, perfect cuts.
• Avoid narrow tiles along walls. Ideally, you’ll end up with tiles cut to half size or larger. Avoid cutting tile to widths less than 2 in.
• Minimize cutting and try to avoid difficult cuts. For example: Cutting tile to an L-shape to fit around an outside corner is especially difficult when one arm of the “L” is less than 2 in. wide. The arm tends to break off as you cut.

Chances are, your layout won’t meet all these goals. Because the shower stall was the focal point in our bathroom, we made it our No. 1 layout priority. We chose to use full tiles in front of the shower. That left us with 3-in.-wide tiles along the opposite wall, which was less prominent. We also chose to center the tile rows on the shower; that meant we had to use cut tiles at the doorway.

Once you determine a layout, establish lines to guide your tile positioning. The usual method is to snap chalk lines on the floor. But chalk lines are hard to see after you’ve spread thin-set, and one row of tile may slip as you set the next row. Here’s a more reliable guide: Choose straight boards a foot shorter than the length and width of the room. Tape one edge of each board so thin-set won’t stick to them.

Then screw the boards to the floor at a right angle to form a guide that eliminates guesswork and shifting (Photo 10).

Video: Create Your Own Floor Tile Layout

Planning the layout for a tile project is usually the hardest and most time- consuming step. Watch this video to learn how a pro does it. You’ll see how to snap chalk lines and make sure they are perfectly square. Plus, you’ll learn how to avoid unsightly narrow, difficult-to-cut tiles along a wall. Don’t start a tile project until you’ve watch this video!

Set the tile (finally!)

Photo 11: Set the full tiles

Comb out a few square feet of thin-set and set tile against the guides. Continue until all the full tiles are in place. Tip: Watch for squeeze-out between tiles and rake it out with tile spacers.

Spacers detail

Keep the gaps between tiles even by using spacers

Photo 12: Spread thin-set and set the perimeter tiles.

Cut and set the perimeter tiles after the thin-set beneath the full tiles has hardened. In spaces too narrow for your trowel, comb thin-set onto the backs of tiles.

It’s usually easiest—and most efficient—to set tile in two phases: First set all the full “field” tiles (Photo 11). Then, when the thin-set has hardened for several hours, cut all the perimeter tiles and set them (Photo 12). Here are some tips for both phases of the job:

• The trowel you use for setting tile may be different from the one you used to embed the backer. The thin-set label tells you which notch size to use relative to tile size.
• Dampen the backer with a sponge just before applying thin-set. This keeps the thin-set from drying out too quickly.
• Comb the thin-set in one direction so air pockets won’t be trapped under tile.
• Open three or four cartons and mix the tiles as you set them. Pattern and color vary slightly from one carton to the next.
• Don’t just set each tile into place; press down on the tile and wiggle it to embed it firmly in the thin-set.
• Watch for “tipped” corners. When you press a tile in place, it’s easy to tilt it slightly so that one corner stands higher or lower than neighboring tiles.
• When you complete a section of tile, inspect it before moving on. Make sure the tiles line up correctly and spacers are in place. Wipe any thin-set off the face of tiles with a damp sponge.
• When the thin-set becomes chunky or too stiff, throw it away and mix more. Never try to extend the life of thin-set or grout by adding water.
• Cut perimeter tile so that caulked joints (at tub) are the same width as grouted joints.

Prepare the floor for grout

Photo 13: Install an extension ring over the toilet flange

Remove the old screws from the toilet flange and apply a heavy bead of silicone caulk. Fasten the extension ring over the old flange with stainless steel or brass screws.

Photo 14: Install the transition strip

Glue the transition into place with construction adhesive. If carpet meets the transition, you may have to add a new tack strip.

Photo 15: Stuff backer rod along the wall

Push backer rod into joints that will be caulked later. The foam rod keeps grout out of joints. After grouting, pull out the rod and caulk the joints.

When all the tiles are in place and the thin-set has hardened, remove all the spacers. Next, raise the toilet flange by adding an extension ring or two (Photo 13). The extended flange should be flush with or higher than the surrounding tile.

When you grout, fill in between the flange and tile. That way, any future leak around the flange will show up on the bathroom floor instead of on the ceiling below. If you plan to use a glue-down transition as we did, this is the time to install it.

Here’s how we dealt with our transition: First, we removed the old metal strip that covered the carpet’s edge. Then we cut our transition strip to fit between the door jambs using a miter saw. Next, we added a tack strip to hold the carpet in place. Before we could glue the transition to the floor (Photo 14), we had to remove a thin strip of the old vinyl floor.

Grout is too brittle to handle the slight shifting movements that are normal in any room. Keep grout out of joints wherever the floor meets the tub, shower, vanity or walls (Photo 15).

Pack the joints with grout

Photo 16: Grout the joints

Work the grout back and forth across the floor, diagonal to the joints and holding the float at a 45-degree angle. Then scrape off the excess grout, holding the float almost upright.

The thin-set directions will tell you how soon you can grout the floor—usually 24 hours. Grouting isn’t complex. Just plop a couple of scoops of grout onto the floor in a corner, work the grout into joints (Photo 16) and scrape off the excess grout before moving to the next section. In addition:

• Mix the grout to a mashed-potatoes consistency. Adding extra liquid makes grout easier to work with but weakens it.
• Don’t just spread the grout over the joints; press hard to pack it into the joints. If you’re doing it right, your forearm will get a good workout.
• Whether you’re filling joints or scraping off excess grout, always push the float diagonally across the tiles.
• Scrape off the excess to leave tile as clean as you can. The less grout you leave on the tiles, the easier cleanup will be.
• When you’re done, cover the grout bucket with a plastic bag and set it in a cool place to slow the hardening process. During cleanup, you may find spots that need a little extra.

Grout cleanup

Photo 17: Clean the tiles

Wipe grout off the tile surface with a damp sponge. Wipe gently on the first pass so you don’t pull grout out of the joints. Rinse the sponge often.

Clean the surface of the tile when the grout is stiff enough to stay put in the joints but still soft enough to wipe off the tile surface. During hot, dry weather, grout can become difficult to wipe away in just 10 minutes, so get ready for cleanup before you even mix the grout. You’ll need two buckets of clean water, two sponges, a synthetic scouring pad and a dry rag.

As soon as you’re done grouting, go to the first section you grouted and wipe across a joint with a damp sponge. If the sponge pulls grout out of the joint, wait five minutes and try again. In cool, damp weather, the grout may stay too soft for an hour. When the grout is hard enough, gently wipe the tile with a damp sponge.

Rinse the sponge frequently as you wipe the entire floor (Photo 17). If you come across tough spots, scrub them with the scouring pad. Be careful where you put your feet and knees—don’t mar your perfect grout joints.

Immediately after the first pass, grab the second bucket of clean water and the fresh sponge and make a second, more thorough pass. Then, as the tile surface dries, wipe it with a dry terry cloth. The dry haze should buff off easily. If not, go for fresh water and sponge the floor again. If you can’t get rid of the haze, don’t panic. Products that remove haze are available wherever tile is sold.

Let the grout cure overnight before you caulk joints, set the toilet or reinstall baseboard. Grout sealer is a good precaution against staining: Some products can be applied 24 hours after grouting; others require a two- to three-week wait. If you have leftover tile or grout, keep them in case you have to make repairs in the future. Be sure to write down the brand, color and retailer of the tile.

How NOT to Save Money on a Tile Project

I’m a devout cheapskate, but when it comes to buying thin-set and grout, I grab the most expensive products on the shelf. More expensive thin-sets and grouts generally contain a higher proportion of the polymers that improve adhesion, durability and stain resistance.

In most situations, cheaper products would perform just fine. But if I can reduce the risks of loose tiles or cracked grout by spending an extra $30 on a typical bathroom project, I consider that a bargain.

Liquid additive is another smart investment. If the thin-set or grout label says you can mix it with water or an additive, use additive. These liquids (labeled “latex, ” “polymer” or “acrylic”) are meant to improve adhesion and stain resistance. But as a bonus, they produce a slick, creamy consistency. Thin-set combs out more smoothly, grout flows easily into joints, and both remain workable longer.

Also buy a mixer for your drill. Mixers come in various styles and sizes. Go easy on the trigger. If you run the drill at full speed, you can create millions of tiny air bubbles, which will weaken the mix.

Tile cutting tools

Tile cutter

A tile cutter is the fastest way to cut tile. Just push the handle forward and a small wheel scores the tile. Then push the handle down and the tile snaps in two. You can’t beat a tile cutter for convenience. It makes no mess and you can drag it around the room as you work. But a tile cutter has zero versatility. It makes straight cuts across the entire tile—no curves or corner cuts. Cutting 1 in. or less off a tile can be difficult or impossible. You can rent one at rental centers and some tile shops.

Wet saw

A wet saw cuts with a diamond blade while water cools the blade and eliminates dust. You can cut notches, trim off tiny slivers of tile, cut miters and even make curves. You’ll get clean cuts in any type of tile. But wet saws are messy. They spit water and raise a cloud of gritty mist. If you use one indoors, contain the mist with curtains of plastic film and cover nearby surfaces. You can buy a small wet saw like the one shown here or rent a professional model from a tile store or home or rental center. If you only have a few cuts that require a wet saw, call a tile store. Many make cuts for a small fee.

Angle grinder

An angle grinder equipped with a diamond blade can make straight cuts, curves and notches in any type of tile. Since all your cuts are freehand, this isn’t a precision tool, but you can grind away imperfections with the tip of the blade. Use a grinder only outside. Wear a dust mask and eye protection.

Nippers

Nippers are useful for rough curves and notches. They don’t cut tile, but bite out small chunks, leaving jagged edges.

Contour gauge

A contour gauge is a great tool for marking troublesome shapes on tile. Just press it against any odd-shaped surface (like the curved corner of a bathtub) and transfer the profile to tile.

Here are the tools that can cut your tile. Buy or rent the ones that make the most sense for your project.

In addition to the tools shown here, a carbide abrasive blade that fits in a jigsaw cuts slowly but leaves fairly clean cuts in softer types of ceramic tile and natural stone. A carbide abrasive hole saw cuts perfect holes for plumbing pipes and fixtures.

A rubbing stone is simply an abrasive block, similar to the wheel in a bench grinder. Use it to smooth sharp or slightly chipped cuts that will be exposed.

Additional Information

Required Tools for this Project

Have the necessary tools for this DIY project lined up before you start—you’ll save time and frustration.

You’ll also need these specialty tools for working with tile and backer board:
Scoring knife, Margin trowel, Tile cutter, 4-in. diamond blade, Drill mixer, Offset saw, Tile cutter, Nippers, Wet saw
You can also use an angle grinder for cutting tile.