How to Plumb a Basement Bathroom

Read article : How to Plumb a Basement Bathroom

Adding a basement bathroom

Adding a basement bathroom is a big, complicated project. But that doesn’t mean you can’t do it. Thousands of DIYers successfully tackle the job every year, and so can you.

We will focus on installing the “DWV” system (drain, waste and vent), which is the most difficult part of plumbing a basement bathroom. The DWV system requires some hard labor—breaking up concrete—and enough know-how to construct it so waste will be carried away without problems. You supply the labor; this article will supply the know-how.

The materials for the DWV system shown here cost about $250. Plumbers’ labor rates vary a lot by region, but most licensed pros would charge $1,200 to $2,000 for a job similar to the one shown here.

Figure A: Plumbing a basement bath

Connect the basement bathroom plumbing to the existing drain and vent lines in the floor and ceiling.

Find the main drain line

Photo 1: Locate the main drain

Break through the concrete to verify that the main line is where you think it is and that it’s deep enough to allow adequate downhill slope in the new drain lines.

You’ll have to connect new drain lines to an existing line under the basement. So before you can do any real planning, you have to find that line. First, locate the “main stack,” the large (3 or 4 in. diameter) vertical pipe that runs into the basement floor. From there, the pipe runs under the floor and out to the city sewage system under the street. But it may run at an angle rather than straight out to the street. Look for a cleanout plug along the street-facing wall of the basement. If you find one, that’s most likely the spot where the line exits your home. And usually, the line runs straight from the main stack to the cleanout.

If you have a private septic system, your main line will run toward the location of the drain field. If you’re unsure where the line is, you have a couple of options. You can punch through the floor where you think it is (Photo 1). You might end up enlarging that hole or breaking a second exploratory hole, but that’s not as bad as it sounds; all it will cost you is some wasted time and a couple of extra bags of concrete mix when you patch the floor. Your second option is to get a plumber to help. In most areas, a brief house call will cost you $75 to $150. Some plumbers have access to high-tech equipment that locates lines precisely, but expect to pay $200 for that service.

Slope Makes the Sewage Flow

Drain lines require a downhill slope of at least 1/4 in. per linear foot (see note below) so that waste flows smoothly through the pipes. To determine if your plan allows for that, take a few measurements:

A: The depth of the center of the main line (at the tie-in point).
B: The future depth of the horizontal pipe beneath the drain.

Now do a little math: (A – B) x 4 = the maximum length (in feet) of the drain line, from the main to the end of the horizontal pipe under the drain. If A is 13 in. and B is 10 in., for example, the maximum length of the drain line is 12 ft. (13 – 10 = 3; 3 x 4 = 12).

If your main line isn’t deep enough, you’ll have to locate fixtures closer to the line or install a sewage ejection pump.

Note: Some local codes allow 1/8 in. per foot with 3- or 4-in. pipe.

Plan the system

Once you’ve located the line, you’ll have to make sure it’s deep enough to allow downward slope in the new drain lines that will run from your future bathroom. Then grab a pencil and mark out the whole bathroom on the basement floor: walls, toilet, sink, shower and finally the drain lines.

Consider it all a preplan at this point. Chances are, you’ll have to make some changes as the plan develops. You may want to mock up sections of the system and lay them out on the basement floor using sections of pipe and an assortment of fittings. When the whole system is planned, mark it out on the floor. For photo clarity, we marked out bold lines on the floor. But simple spray paint is fine for drain lines.

Rent a Snapper

A cast iron pipe snapper works by tightening a cutting chain until the pipe cracks. They’re available at tool rental stores. Old cast iron pipe can crush rather than crack. If that happens, you’ll have to abandon the snapper and cut the slow way: with a reciprocating saw. If you have plastic pipe, cutting into the main is quick and easy with a reciprocating saw.

Trench the floor

A plain old sledgehammer will bust up a basement floor. Breaking through at the tie-in point (see Photo 1) may take a few dozen whacks. But once you have a starter hole, the job gets easier because the concrete has space to crack and break off. Within a few minutes, you’ll learn to aim your blows and bust out a neat trench line. Pick out the larger chunks of concrete as you go. Ideally, most of your trench will be just wide enough for your spade. When digging, toss the dirt on a pile separate from the larger chunks of concrete. You don’t want big chunks in the soil you’ll use for backfill later.

Build the drain system

Photo 2: Break out a section of drain

After completing the trenches for the new lines, cut into the main line so you can install a Y-fitting. Our tie-in point was near an existing hub, so we cut out the hub. Make sure no one runs water (or flushes!) while the line is open.

Photo 3: Tie into the drain

Slip rubber couplers onto the main line, insert the Y-fitting, slide the couplers over the joints and tighten the bands. Then plug the inlet and grant your family the freedom to flush again.

Photo 4: Build the drain system

The location of the drains and vents is critical—check and double-check your work before you glue joints together. Determine where the exact location of the shower drain will be after the walls are framed. Cap open pipes to keep sewer gas out of your home. Don’t bury the lines until the building inspector has approved your work.

Photo 5: Patch the floor

Backfill the trench with soil and screed 3 in. of concrete over it. Pack the soil firmly so it won’t settle later. Smooth the concrete with a steel trowel.

Begin the drain system by cutting into the main line (Photo 2) and splicing in a Y-fitting (Photo 3). We used a no-hub cast iron Y-fitting to tie into our cast iron main. But you can use a plastic Y-fitting instead if you glue short sections of pipe into the Y-fitting to accommodate the rubber couplers. Use that same method to tie into a plastic main.

For your DWV system, you can use ABS plastic (as we did; Photo 4) or PVC. Both are easy to cut and join. The hard part of any underground pipe work is building branches that end up exactly where you want them while maintaining a constant slope of at least 1/4 in. per running foot.

Here are tips to help you get it right:

• Buy twice as many fittings as you think you’ll need and a few types that you don’t think you’ll need. Return the leftovers when the job is done.
• If you don’t have a torpedo level, buy one (see Photo 7). It’s the handiest tool for checking the slope of pipes.
• When a section of pipe is complete, pack dirt under and around it to keep it from shifting as you build other sections.
• Know the “rough-in” of your toilet (the distance from the wall to the center of the drain, most likely 12 in.). Don’t forget to account for the thickness of framing and drywall.
• Backfill the trenches with care (Photo 5). You want to pack the soil tightly to prevent settling later, but be sure not to move the pipes as you tamp the soil.

Build the vent system

Photo 6: Build the vent system

After framing the bathroom walls, assemble the vent lines. We ran our vent lines below the floor joists and later framed a lower ceiling to hide the pipes.

Photo 7: Connect to an existing vent

Glue short sections of plastic pipe into a T- or Y-fitting, cut out a section of the existing vent pipe and make connections with rubber couplers.

Photo 8: Position the shower drain

Set the shower pan in place and measure from the walls to determine the exact location of the drain. Assemble the drain and trap without glue. Then set the pan in place again to check your work before you finally glue up the fittings.

The vent system is a lot simpler than the drain system. We ran vent lines under the floor joists (Photo 6) and framed in a lower ceiling later. If you want to preserve ceiling height by running pipes through the joists, you’ll have to bore some large holes, which can weaken the joists. To avoid that, see “How to drill through floor joists.”

In most basements, you can tie your new vent system into the line that vents the laundry sink. Our plumbing inspector allowed us to connect our new 2-in. vent line to an existing 1-1/2-in. vent. Before cutting a section out of the old steel vent, we installed extra metal strapping to support the pipe during and after cutting.

Note: Plumbing codes vary by locality. The rules we give in this article generally follow the strictest codes. Your local rules may be more lenient about issues like vent sizing, the choice of fittings, etc.

Waste line Q & A

When should I use a T-fitting?

Use a T-fitting in drain lines to connect a horizontal pipe to vertical pipes. It can also be used to tie vent lines into horizontal drains or to join vent lines.

When should I use a Y?

In the drain system, use a Y-fitting to connect horizontal pipes (Photo 3). Along with a 45-degree “street” fitting, you can use a Y-fitting to run vertical drainpipes into horizontal pipes as shown. A Y-fitting can also be used in vent systems.

Why does the home center carry three different types of L-fittings?

• A standard L-fitting is used for horizontal-to- vertical flow in drain systems.
• A “sweep” or “long-turn” L-fitting is OK for almost any situation and is required in two situations: horizontal-to-horizontal turns and vertical-to-horizontal turns (as shown). But it can be used in any situation where space allows.
• Use a vent L-fitting only in vents.

What’s a street fitting?

Standard fittings have hubs that fit over pipes. A street fitting has a “streeted” end that fits into a hub, so you can connect it directly to another fitting without using a section of pipe. That saves labor and space.

What size drainpipe should I use?
The toilet requires 3-in. or larger. Use 2-in. for the others; pipes smaller than 2 in. aren’t allowed beneath a concrete slab.

Venting Q & A

Vent L-fitting

A vent L-fitting can be used anywhere in the vent system, but only in the vent system—never where waste flows. The other two types of L-fittings are OK for venting, too.

What’s the vent for?
A plumbing vent is kind of like the air intake on a gas can; it lets in air. Without venting, a slug of sewage racing through a waste line creates air pressure and vacuum in the pipe. That means noisy, gurgling drains. Even worse, vacuum can suck all the water out of traps, allowing sewer gas to flow freely into your home. Yuck.

Vent-to-trap distance—there’s a limit
Every drain needs a trap, and every trap needs a vent. The maximum distance between the trap and vent depends on the diameter of the pipe.

Memorize these distances for midterm exams:

For 1-1/4″ pipe, the max. horizontal distance to vent is 30″ For 1-1/2″ pipe, the max. horizontal distance to vent is 42” For 2″ pipe, the max. horizontal distance to vent is 5′ For 3″ pipe, the max. horizontal distance to vent is 6′ For 4″ pipe, the max. horizontal distance to vent is 10′

Note: A toilet has a built-in trap, so it doesn’t need one in the drain line. It still needs a vent, though.

Can vents run horizontally?
Yes, but horizontal vent lines must be at least 6 in. above the “spill line,” which is the level where water would overflow the rim of a sink, tub or toilet.

What size vent pipes do I need?
A typical bathroom like the one we show (sink, toilet, shower or tub) requires a 2-in. vent. You could run smaller pipes to the sink or shower, but it’s usually easier to use one size for the whole system.

Required Tools for this Project

Have the necessary tools for this DIY project lined up before you start—you’ll save time and frustration.

In addition you will need a cast iron pipe snapper and a
torpedo level.

Required Materials for this Project

Avoid last-minute shopping trips by having all your materials ready ahead of time. Here’s a list.

How to Get Rid of Mold And Mildew

Read article : How to Get Rid of Mold And Mildew

(Like what you're reading? Sign up for our newsletter to get health insights, clever kitchen tricks, gardening secrets, and more—delivered straight to your inbox. And follow along on Facebook and Instagram.)

How to get rid of mold and mildew

I started by tossing the mats and fabric shower curtains and cotton shower curtain liner in the washing machine and hanging them out on the line, where the sunshine emerged to do its mold-killing magic. If your curtain is a bit musty, you may want to give it a presoak for a few hours, or even overnight, in a bucket of water with a cup of white vinegar added before tossing it into the washer.

Then, I tackled the grout. No matter how diligent you are at giving your bathroom its weekly once-over (and I am very not diligent), the joints where one material meets another are prone to dirt buildup and mildew. A number of natural cleaners are equal to the challenge, but the type and condition of your grout, tile, and other surfaces need to be taken into consideration when you select one so you don’t damage them. Also, steer clear of scrubby pads if you have materials that could be scratched (my surfaces are tough and were marred long before I owned them, so I don’t sweat a little more scrubbing once in a while to get rid of mold. If yours can also take the abuse, you can even use epsom salt to scrub grout).

(Here are two easy ways to clean a cast iron pan!)

A good basic cleaner to start with is baking soda dissolved in water for spraying or sponging (1/8 cup per quart of water), sprinkled dry on a damp sponge, or made into a paste with a little water for tough areas. Baking soda has been found to kill certain types of mildew, and for the types it can't kill, its mild abrasiveness allows you to scrub the stuff away. It's safe for most surfaces, but you might want to test a small area first if you have any doubts. Apply the baking soda, either in spray or paste form, leave it alone for an hour or so, and then scrub with a soft brush (a retired toothbrush is my favorite). Wipe and rinse well when finished. (Here are 9 more surprising uses for baking soda.)

White vinegar or lemon juice (full strength or mixed with half water) are also good for cleaning mildew-stained grout, but they are acidic and can start to eat away at grout as well as certain hard-surface finishes, so be sure to rinse completely; neither is a good choice for natural marble. To use, sponge on, scrub with a soft brush, and rinse. If you can’t get your grout clean with either of these cleaners, you may want to consider looking for a company that offers professional steam cleaning, which is nontoxic and very effective. Just make sure the company is clear that you don’t want toxic chemicals used.

Related: What's The Better Mold Cleaner—Lemon Juice Or Bleach?

In areas where mildew is a chronic problem, you can keep it from growing by applying citrus or tee-tree oil regularly. Put 10 drops of lemon, orange, grapefruit, or tea tree oil and a few drops of dish soap into an empty quart spray bottle, add warm water almost to the top, and slosh to mix. Spray down areas that are prone to mildew once a week or so. (Here are more essential ingredients for making all of your own cleaning products.)

Related: 6 Times You Should Never Use Essential Oils

How to get rid of hard water stains

Depending on the dissolved minerals in your water, you too may get white, gray, or even rusty stains on bathroom surfaces. If I had a magic bullet that would get rid of hard water stains with no effort, I’d be a millionaire, but I don't. However, with a little trial and error and even more elbow grease, you can take care of soap scum and mineral deposits as effectively with natural products as you could with the latest toxic panacea being pushed on TV (which probably isn’t nearly as effective as they want you to believe it is anyway).

Related: The Only 10 Things You Need To Buy To Make All Your Own Natural Cleaning Products

As with grout, baking soda is a good basic cleaner to start with: Use it dissolved in water for spraying or sponging, sprinkled as is on a damp sponge, or as a paste for tough areas. Apply baking soda to your surface, let it sit for an hour or so, and then remove it with a soft cloth or brush.

Related: How To Wash Your Car Without Nasty Chemicals Or Wasting Water

If baking soda isn’t up to your challenges, vinegar is quite effective at dissolving soap scum and removing hard water stains. Sponge it on full strength (or mixed half and half with water), wipe with a sponge or soft cloth, and then rinse well. To remove hard-water buildup from showerheads, remove the showerhead and let it soak in undiluted vinegar for a few hours while you're cleaning. Vinegar works because it is acidic, but for the same reason it can also eat into grout or damage the finish of marble, tile, and other surfaces. Check with the manufacturer for advice or test it in an inconspicuous area. (Here are 9 times you should never use vinegar around the house.)

Should both of those fail, a good next step is a product called Bar Keepers Friend (the dry, powdered type). Its active ingredient is oxalic acid, a natural chemical found in rhubarb leaves and various other plants. It is very good at dissolving mineral deposits, even rust stains, without a lot of scrubbing. Just remember that even though it is natural, it can still hurt you if you ingest it, or get in on your skin or in your eyes, so be sure to follow the simple label cautions. (Here are 12 more household toxins you should banish from your home.)

A few other alternatives are Bon Ami cleanser,powdered pumice or a pumice stone, or even very fine wet/dry sandpaper. But as with any other cleaning method, test a small area first to make sure they won't damage surfaces. 

How to Get Rid of Mold And Mildew

Read article : How to Get Rid of Mold And Mildew

(Like what you're reading? Sign up for our newsletter to get health insights, clever kitchen tricks, gardening secrets, and more—delivered straight to your inbox. And follow along on Facebook and Instagram.)

How to get rid of mold and mildew

I started by tossing the mats and fabric shower curtains and cotton shower curtain liner in the washing machine and hanging them out on the line, where the sunshine emerged to do its mold-killing magic. If your curtain is a bit musty, you may want to give it a presoak for a few hours, or even overnight, in a bucket of water with a cup of white vinegar added before tossing it into the washer.

Then, I tackled the grout. No matter how diligent you are at giving your bathroom its weekly once-over (and I am very not diligent), the joints where one material meets another are prone to dirt buildup and mildew. A number of natural cleaners are equal to the challenge, but the type and condition of your grout, tile, and other surfaces need to be taken into consideration when you select one so you don’t damage them. Also, steer clear of scrubby pads if you have materials that could be scratched (my surfaces are tough and were marred long before I owned them, so I don’t sweat a little more scrubbing once in a while to get rid of mold. If yours can also take the abuse, you can even use epsom salt to scrub grout).

(Here are two easy ways to clean a cast iron pan!)

A good basic cleaner to start with is baking soda dissolved in water for spraying or sponging (1/8 cup per quart of water), sprinkled dry on a damp sponge, or made into a paste with a little water for tough areas. Baking soda has been found to kill certain types of mildew, and for the types it can't kill, its mild abrasiveness allows you to scrub the stuff away. It's safe for most surfaces, but you might want to test a small area first if you have any doubts. Apply the baking soda, either in spray or paste form, leave it alone for an hour or so, and then scrub with a soft brush (a retired toothbrush is my favorite). Wipe and rinse well when finished. (Here are 9 more surprising uses for baking soda.)

White vinegar or lemon juice (full strength or mixed with half water) are also good for cleaning mildew-stained grout, but they are acidic and can start to eat away at grout as well as certain hard-surface finishes, so be sure to rinse completely; neither is a good choice for natural marble. To use, sponge on, scrub with a soft brush, and rinse. If you can’t get your grout clean with either of these cleaners, you may want to consider looking for a company that offers professional steam cleaning, which is nontoxic and very effective. Just make sure the company is clear that you don’t want toxic chemicals used.

Related: What's The Better Mold Cleaner—Lemon Juice Or Bleach?

In areas where mildew is a chronic problem, you can keep it from growing by applying citrus or tee-tree oil regularly. Put 10 drops of lemon, orange, grapefruit, or tea tree oil and a few drops of dish soap into an empty quart spray bottle, add warm water almost to the top, and slosh to mix. Spray down areas that are prone to mildew once a week or so. (Here are more essential ingredients for making all of your own cleaning products.)

Related: 6 Times You Should Never Use Essential Oils

How to get rid of hard water stains

Depending on the dissolved minerals in your water, you too may get white, gray, or even rusty stains on bathroom surfaces. If I had a magic bullet that would get rid of hard water stains with no effort, I’d be a millionaire, but I don't. However, with a little trial and error and even more elbow grease, you can take care of soap scum and mineral deposits as effectively with natural products as you could with the latest toxic panacea being pushed on TV (which probably isn’t nearly as effective as they want you to believe it is anyway).

Related: The Only 10 Things You Need To Buy To Make All Your Own Natural Cleaning Products

As with grout, baking soda is a good basic cleaner to start with: Use it dissolved in water for spraying or sponging, sprinkled as is on a damp sponge, or as a paste for tough areas. Apply baking soda to your surface, let it sit for an hour or so, and then remove it with a soft cloth or brush.

Related: How To Wash Your Car Without Nasty Chemicals Or Wasting Water

If baking soda isn’t up to your challenges, vinegar is quite effective at dissolving soap scum and removing hard water stains. Sponge it on full strength (or mixed half and half with water), wipe with a sponge or soft cloth, and then rinse well. To remove hard-water buildup from showerheads, remove the showerhead and let it soak in undiluted vinegar for a few hours while you're cleaning. Vinegar works because it is acidic, but for the same reason it can also eat into grout or damage the finish of marble, tile, and other surfaces. Check with the manufacturer for advice or test it in an inconspicuous area. (Here are 9 times you should never use vinegar around the house.)

Should both of those fail, a good next step is a product called Bar Keepers Friend (the dry, powdered type). Its active ingredient is oxalic acid, a natural chemical found in rhubarb leaves and various other plants. It is very good at dissolving mineral deposits, even rust stains, without a lot of scrubbing. Just remember that even though it is natural, it can still hurt you if you ingest it, or get in on your skin or in your eyes, so be sure to follow the simple label cautions. (Here are 12 more household toxins you should banish from your home.)

A few other alternatives are Bon Ami cleanser,powdered pumice or a pumice stone, or even very fine wet/dry sandpaper. But as with any other cleaning method, test a small area first to make sure they won't damage surfaces. 

The latest dining chairs

Read article : The latest dining chairs

Save money on your bathroom renovation with these tips and advice from industry experts. Includes advice on design, planning and choosing your materials.

Scroll down to read more or jump to a topic from the list below…

‘Keep your existing layout and consider functionality’

Nick Rowland, product manager at Heritage Bathrooms says: ‘The key to a successful renovation project is planning. As soon as you start repositioning plumbing the job can become very expensive, so stick to the existing layout if possible.

‘Although installers can find great deals, do your own research as well to see what other bargains are out there. Ask yourself whether you need the installer to fit the whole bathroom. What could you do yourself? Picking up the smaller, less technical tasks, such as hanging mirrors, putting up towel rails and painting walls, can lead to considerable savings. Check whether a “good price” really is value for money – does it offer quality? Will the product stand the test of time? Is it guaranteed by the manufacturer?

‘The only area where you may want to consider cutting corners by spending less is on fittings without a working function. For example, static pieces, such as a basin and pedestal, are only required to hold water and allow it to drain away. In contrast, the WC has more moving parts and the pan and cistern need to operate properly for years to come. With this in mind, I recommend only buying a WC from a recognised manufacturer that will understand its functional needs and will carefully manage the manufacturing process to ensure that the cistern and pan do not leak.

‘A bath needs to be robust enough to hold your weight as well as the water. If you are satisfied that this basic requirement has been met then you won’t need to spend money on baths with additional reinforcement, which have little benefit for domestic use.’
?Back to top

‘Consider what you can do for yourself’

Jamey Seaman, bathroom expert at Ikea says: ‘There are many ways to make your budget go that bit further when it comes to improving your bathroom. It’s surprising just how much work you can do by yourself. Save money by purchasing ready-to-assemble basin and bathroom cabinets, and avoid paying someone else to fix units to the wall.

‘You can also make savings by buying a complete set of bathroom furniture, including a basin, cabinet and mirror, rather than individual pieces, which could cost more. You don’t have to blow your budget on bathroom storage all at once. Start by fitting storage beneath and above the sink and add more at a later date when you have the time and budget.’
?Back to top

ABOVE (left-right): Venice shower-bath, (H)47x(W)85x(L)170cm, £525; basin and pedestal, (H)85x(W)60x (D)45cm, £273; close-coupled WC, (H)83x (W)36.5x(D)63cm, with cistern and soft-close seat, £432, all from the Zaar collection at Heritage Bathrooms; Godmorgon/Vitviken washstand with two drawers and porcelain basin, (H)66x(W)63x(D)49cm, £170; Dalskar chrome-plated basin mixer tap, (H)18cm, £65; Godmorgon mirror cabinet, (H)96x(W)60x(D)14cm, £180; high cabinets, (H)192x(W)40x(D)30cm, £150 each, all Ikea.

‘Mix inexpensive ceramic tiles with luxury mosaics’

Beth Boulton, head of marketing at Topps Tiles says: ‘Instead of tiling an entire room in expensive mosaics, keep down costs by using them sparingly as a feature wall or to zone a shower area.

‘With the latest advancements in the ceramic printing process, there are now ceramic tiles available featuring highly realistic interpretations of natural stone, marble and wood. By cutting sheets of tiles in half or into strips to create a vertical feature behind a basin, or a horizontal statement around a bath and corner of a shower, you can make a real impact without overspending.’
?Back to top

‘Spend wisely and look out for bargains’

Rob Whitaker, brand director at Fired Earth says: ‘In general, you will get what you pay for. While cheaper products may look very similar to more expensive equivalents, they’re unlikely to have the same quality of finish or to last as long. For example, the chrome on very inexpensive taps may start to peel, or the surface of a bath may be more likely to crack or stain, so it is worth spending as much as you can afford to save money in the long term.

‘Think about installing a shower over the bath rather than building a separate shower area. As well as saving on product and installation costs, this is a good space-saving solution, too. If you would love a classic, freestanding cast-iron bath but it is beyond your budget, a bath made from a resin and stone composite is a great, cost-effective alternative. Factory shops often have fantastic bargains, so it’s well worth paying them a visit. If you can, it’s a good idea to wait for the winter and summer sales as the discounts on large items such as baths, washstands and boxes of tiles can be considerable.’
?Back to top

ABOVE (left-right): Glossy flat ceramic wall tiles in white, (W)20x(L)25cm, £7.60 per m²; Slate square glass mosaic tiles in silver, £13.99 for a (W)30x(L)30cm sheet; large-format Crystal porcelain floor tiles in white, (W)44x (L)44cm, £49.54 per m², all Topps Tiles; Flow roll-top bath, made from resin and ground stone with chrome feet, painted in Mercury Eggshell, (H)66x (W)80x(L)175cm, £1,650; Avebury bath and shower mixer tap, (H)42x (W)18x(D)20cm, £1,125; Abbey Fountains porcelain floor tiles, (W)19.9x (L)19.9cm, £74.70 per m², all Fired Earth; Athena Black 1700 freestanding bath with chrome feet, (H)56x(W)75x(L)170cm, £349.95; Modena 60 Semi Pedestal bathroom suite with ceramic basin (H)48x(W)58.5x(D)39.5cm, and ceramic WC, (H)83.5x (W)37x(D)65cm, £179.95, all Better Bathrooms.

‘Think about selling your old suite’

Joe Cummings, product advisor at Better Bathrooms says: ‘The rising popularity of auction sites has provided a fantastic platform for selling secondhand items. Any unwanted fixtures in good condition are worth selling, from taps and basins to tiles. This is the perfect way to recoup some of the expense you have lavished on your new bathroom.

‘Labour costs are the greatest outlay in any renovation project, so try doing some of the work yourself. Demolition and debris removal, along with tiling and brassware installation are simple jobs even for the most novice of DIYers. There are installation videos on the Better Bathrooms website (betterbathrooms.com) offering step-by-step guidance on how to install a range of sanitaryware in your home yourself, including shower enclosures, basins and baths. This will help to eliminate high-cost construction bills. However, it’s not always a good idea to undertake all of the work a bathroom renovation entails yourself – this can end up costing you more rather than saving money. Large, technical jobs, including any changes in plumbing, will require experienced tradespeople, so shop around in order to find the right person for the task. You will need someone you trust who will do the job at the right price. Acquiring multiple quotes from different contractors will not only give you an estimate of the cost of the work, but will ensure the price is fair and help with your planning.’
?Back to top

‘Research affordable options for flooring’

David Snazel, buyer at Carpetright says: ‘Updating your bathroom flooring doesn’t necessarily mean you’ll have to lay out a huge amount of money. If you like the look of stone or hardwood floors, but want a more practical and affordable option, it’s certainly worth considering vinyl. Functional yet stylish, vinyl is waterproof, remarkably durable and comes in a variety of styles – from natural wood and classic tiles to modern patterned designs – making it the ideal bathroom flooring solution.’
?Back to top

‘Never cut corners when it comes to brassware’

Leanne Robey, senior designer at Ripples says: ‘There are lots of ways to save on a bathroom project, but you should always invest in quality brassware as this includes the items that are in use every day, in particular concealed valves that regulate the temperature of the water in your home.

‘Always buy a good quality showerhead, especially if you prefer to take a shower than a bath, and look for “rub clean” showerheads with easy-clean nozzles that will prevent the build-up of limescale – great if you live in a hard-water area.

‘For further savings choose an eco-friendly showerhead with a sophisticated flow restrictor, various jet options and air infusion, which all work together to cut your water consumption by up to 60 per cent. This will help keep down water costs and will also cut energy bills, as less water will need to be heated.’
?Back to top

ABOVE (left-right): Urban Planks vinyl flooring in Eden Walnut 857, £44.99 per m², from the Tegola range at Carpetright; Crema Marfil marble wall tiles, (W)30x (L)60cm, £68 per m²; Fairfield easy-clean showerhead, (dia.)20cm, and arm, (L)41cm, £433; ¾-inch concealed flow control stop valve, £292; thermostat, £675, all Ripples.

All prices and stockists correct at time of publishing