10 of the best freestanding baths

Read article : 10 of the best freestanding baths

Freestanding baths can work to create a stunning focal point for your bathroom while also adding a touch of elegance and personality.

They can often be costly though so, before you invest in a new stylish tub here are some things you should give some thought to.

Weight

This shouldn't come as a surprise to anyone, but bathtubs are heavy - especially freestanding ones - and they'll only get heavier once you add a tub full of water and your body to the equation.

Looks great, but can your home handle the weight of a freestanding bathtub?

Before you purchase your dream freestanding tub (and we've got some lovely examples below) make sure your home can physically withstand the pressure of it all, unless you want to cause some seriously structural damage to your home.

Location

Where you position your tub can make all the difference between a stylish and relaxing bathroom, and one that looks horribly cramped. Obviously, if you have a larger bathroom this won't be as much as a problem, but if your bathroom is on the smaller side of things this will be something you'll have to put some thought into.

Think about where you're going to place your new bathtubCredit: R Streeter

Consider placing your bathtub somewhere with enough space on either side to stack your toiletries (soaps, shampoos, conditioner, etc) and maybe even a laundry basket. This will make sure you've got enough 'wiggle room' to stop your bathroom from looking a little too squashed together.

For those with smaller bathrooms, opt for a slipper bath model as these tend to fit neatly into smaller rooms and help to give the illusion of space.

Style

Freestanding bathtubs act as a statement piece in any room, but what kind of statement you make all depends on the style you go for.

What sort of style are you looking for?Credit: Chris Terry

Decide whether you want your bathroom to have a contemporary or traditional look. If you're looking for something modern you might want to go with a tub with a trendy metallic finish or a bespoke paint job to match the room. For a traditional look, you can never go wrong with a classic slipper bath.

Here are some of our favourite freestanding tubs to get you started...

Coniston

£2,925.00, C.P. Hart

The deep curves of this bath are designed to mirror those of the U-shaped valley containing Coniston Water in Cumbria.

If you ask me, it looks more like a flying saucer, but it holds an impressive amount of water, ensuring you will want to wallow in it for hours. You’ll need to have a big enough bathroom though, and a chunky budget, but it does come in matte or gloss white.

Buy now

Henley 1550

£299, Soakology

The name “slipper bath” sounds slightly creepy, but these high-backed, shorter length baths fit into small spaces and tend to be extremely comfortable. This one is made of acrylic, meaning scratches can easily be filled or repaired. It comes with chrome aluminium feet and is a bargain at just under £300.

Buy now

Astonian Brunel

£2,966.02, Aston Matthews

Built for those who require an industrial-sized bath, this cast iron tank takes its inspiration from 19th century engineer Isambard Kingdom Brunel. At just under £3000 it’s not cheap but it’s built to give you a lifetime of total immersion. And if you go off grey, you can always paint it a different colour.

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The Tamar

from £2,925.00, Drummonds

If a bath with shapely legs isn’t your thing, the Tamar, with its elegant skirt, might suit. It is compact, stylish and comes in a variety of finishes. And being double ended, you can soak away for hours with a book, a glass of wine or – as the manufacturer points out – with company.

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Salisbury Slipper

£629, Bathstore

This neat bath (it’s only 1520mm) will add interest and class to a meanly-proportioned bathroom. The raised "slipper" end will support your shoulders and back to give a relaxing, if slightly upright, bathing experience. I like the contrast of black feet on white bath, but you can also order it with white feet.

Buy now

Moo

£11,916.48, C.P. Hart

A distinctly bovine bath made in Belgium made from Compolight and covered in imitation cow hyde – water resistant, of course. Probably de trop for a poky terrace house but if you own a chalet, or converted cattle shed, this is the bath for you.

Buy now

Napoli

POR, Victoria + Albert Baths

The egg-shaped Napoli offers “rimless” bathing, which I’m assured is just as comfortable as the roll-top variety. It is a super-minimalist, one piece casting of rare volcanic limestone and resin with a high gloss finish and an exterior that can be painted.

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Topaz

£499, Soakology

Despite resembling an ice cream tub, this bath is the epitome of urban cool. It is so deep that you cannot help but sink into a truly luxurious soak. This bath is made of acrylic, so the water should stay warm for ages and has a refreshing £499 price tag.

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Marseille

£3,095.00, Cast Iron Bath

Baths don’t get more aesthetic than this classical-shaped copper bateau. It is finished in tin, using 18th century techniques, giving it a hip, raw beauty and has curving ends to support your head and shoulders. At just over £3000 it’s not cheap, but it will undoubtedly make your bathroom look a whole lot more expensive.

Buy now

Clearwater

£1,152.26, UK Bathroom Store

There’s nothing in the slightest bit twee about the Clearwater free standing modern Orient bath - just look at the size of those feet.

Buy now

2014 The Italian Sea Group Admiral Sail - Silent 76, Carrara Italy

Read article : 2014 The Italian Sea Group Admiral Sail - Silent 76, Carrara Italy

Features:

1. Construction

Hull Construction:

The hull is moulded in GRP from female moulds; it uses a high properties gelcoat and the internal side of the hull is vacuum infused with isoftalic polyester resin while the skincoat features a further application of vi-nylester resin in order to avoid and limit osmosis. Additional reinforce-ments are included to the keel area, the keel longitudinal, mast bulkhead, structural P-brackets, engine room basement, forestay and hull stringers. Limber holes which penetrate structural areas and/or tubes are installed at appropriate points on stringers, bulkhead – landings and floors.

Hull Finishes:

Grey metal hull and with light grey superstructure; red waterline and black antifouling;

Deck Construction:

Moulded in GRP with a PVC foam cored structure for strength and insula-tion. In load bearing areas the core is replaced with plywood for additional strength, and all load bearing fittings have backing plates.

The hull to deck connection is achieved by bonding the deck onto the return flange of the hull and using the glue approved by Class rules in or-der to create a structural junction.

Deck Finishes:

The weather deck, cockpit seats, sole areas and part of the coachroof area are finished with teak planking (10mm). This is laid using epoxy ad-hesive, with no visible fastenings.

The areas either side of the main companionway are finished with teak planking, with open stowage areas and stainless steel rails.

All lockers drain outside and their hinges and catches are recessed or hid-den into Teak planking, as appropriate.

Keel System:

The keel is a high performance bulb design.

The ballast keel is made of lead casting bolted to the GRP hull with stain-less steel bolts. Ballast weight is approximately 14,800 kgs. .

The keel is designed to combine moderate draft with good sailing perfor-mance due to its efficient shape and side winglets. The centre of gravity is very low due to the fact that the centerboard is made of cast iron while the actual keel is made of lead.

Mast and Boom:

Max Spar conventional alloy mast (made of two parts) with Ronstan track for in-boom furling mainsail with top tapered (last 3 meters). Triple spread-er rig with tapered aerofoil spreaders (21° angle).

Custom carbon boom – deep and trapezoidal section incorporating Bamar furling system and electric motor for in-boom furling mainsail.

Mast & Boom and Mast & Vang connections are custom made in alumi-num and feature a special, custom made concealing cover, made of car-bon, which gives a unique design. Also the vang itself feature a custom made concealing cover, made of two carbon conical blocks.

Deck Fittings:

Stainless steel opening pulpit;

Port and starboard navigational lights;

Stainless steel pushpit with gate for boarding;

Custom stainless steel and teak made engine bracket;

650mm stainless steel custom stanchions and bases with double stainless steel rod guardrails;

Pair of gateway stanchions for side access;

Stainless steel telescopic and retractile steamhead fitting with single roller designed to stow a 63kg Delta anchor. The chain flows into the steamhead arm itself, without the need of having an external chainplate;

Pair of custom stainless steel, leather upholstered backrest seats fitted at the helm positions;
6 x pairs of 400mm stainless steel “pop-up” mooring cleats with chafe strips to deck edges;
4 x pairs of aft “pop-up” fairleads and cleats in proximity of the transom bulwark;
Deck fillers – 2 x fuel, 2 x water and 1 x waste;
1000W Sanguinetti Chiavari retractile capstan for mooring lines at bow;

Cockpit:

The cockpit is split into separate guest and steering/crew areas, although they are both on the same level.
The main companionway features a double large horizontal sliding hatchway with stainless steel frames and grab rail. The sliding mechanism is manually powered.
The guest cockpit is over 3m long and self-draining as it’s on the same level of the main deck. There are also cockpit drains which ease the water to drain away while at sea and going upwind. There is a clear walkway giving excellent access from the companionway to the helm positions and side decks, all on the same level.
The cockpit features two teak-topped opening, sliding and telescopic tables.
The tables are permanently installed and have seats on three sides due to the cockpit design. The table is provided with a cover. Under one of the cockpit seats a top opening fridge finds place.
Three pairs of flush mounted waterproof loud speakers are mounted in the guest cockpit with their own cockpit mounted remote control unit for the dedicated ‘cockpit’ CD/Tuner head unit (head unit installed below decks).
Two of those speakers are used by the vhf system, as external loud speakers.
The helm position has twin custom GRP and aluminium steering pedestals
incorporating all the standard controls and instruments with plenty of room for additional equipment, if required. Each pedestal has a flush-mounted compass with internal lighting. There is a double lever engine control fitted at the starboard pedestal. The wheels are fitted in a reverse position, giving easy and safe access to the instruments mounted on both pedestals.
At the helm position an aluminium roll-bar finds place. This is the base where the two fixed points for the mainsheet system are fitted.
Aft the helm positions is a clear flat deck area, which can be filled with cushions, creating a sunbathing area. This area also includes two big lockers with flush-to-deck lids, teak covered; they are designed to host two liferafts or alternatively one can be dedicated to a liferaft and the other one to store lines. A custom flush hatch is fitted with twin gas struts, drain channels, rubber seal and against the wind closing to give access to the large dinghy garage.

Garage & Bathing Platform:

The yacht is built with a flap-down full beam transom, raised and lowered hydraulically, which also gives the main access to the toys garage. The garage can host a good number of toys and actually it fitted to host 3 seabobs.
The bathing platform created by the transom once it’s open it is provided with a demountable stainless steel bathing ladder and it’s covered by teak planking.
A removable ladder also connects the main deck to the transom when open. Alternatively also the gangway can be used for this purpose.
There is a hot and cold freshwater deck shower located in the dinghy garage which can be used on the bathing platform thanks to a flexible hose.
The garage door is also provided with an emergency system for opening the garage, which is placed close to the waterline, protected by a stainless steel screwed in cap and which can be operated by a person in the water.

Hard Top:

The yacht features a custom cockpit hard top, which gives a very good protection to the all cockpit and helm positions. This feature is unique on yachts of this size and contributes to the overall design of the yacht.

The hard has an aluminium structure, attached to the aluminium roll-bar which is placed aft. The practical functions of this will be both sprayhood and bimini.
The hard top has a glass cover and an opening area which is covered with acrylic material (Sunbrella), with battens.
The hard top also features side glasses which deliver complete protection to the forward end of the cockpit seats.

Anchoring:

A Quick 3000w electric anchor windlass is installed below deck and within the anchor chain locker. The windlass, which is two-way and operated by adjacent foot switch controls is well over specified for the size of the vessel.
The 63kg (approximately) Delta anchor stows into the retractable stemhead fitting.
120 metres of 12mm calibrated, galvanized chain is fitted to match the
windlass. The chain is fastened at its 'bitter end' to a through-bolted stainless
steel attachment with substantial lanyard.

Haatches, Windows and Portholes:

1 x Lewmar over forward crew cabin;
1 x Lewmar over forward VIP cabin;
1 x Lewmar over main saloon;
1 x Lewmar over garage (with teak planked lid);
Custom main companionway with double sliding and balanced hatch system,
stainless frames and grab rails (by SeaSmart);
1 x custom GRP hatch to cover anchor steamhead locker;
Custom direct bonded, curved and flat, non-opening frameless deck saloon
windows, smoked glass made (by Viraver);
8 x custom direct bonded non-opening frameless hull windows, smoked glass made (by Viraver);

Whinches:

2 x Harken 1000.3 ST three speed, electric drive, self-tailing primary
winches;
2 x Harken 74.2 ST two speed electric drive, self-tailing halyard winches;

4. Rigging and Sails

Standing Rigging:

The vessel is fitted with discontinuous Maxspar rod rigging for the 3- spreader rig. The standing rigging includes a split backstay which is made of high performance steel and Dynema for the backstay legs, with plates below deck;
Discontinuous rod rigging for tip-cups;
Enclosed rod rigging for tip-cups;
Stainless steel rod, which incorporates high strength, low stretch and high corrosion resistance;
Stemball spreader links and stemball tang fittings used throughout;
Total weight of standing rigging is: 340kg;

Running Rigging:

1 x 16mm dyneema main halyard;
2 x 16/14mm dyneema/dynaone headsail/blade halyard;
1 x 14mm dyneema storm/jib halyard;
1 x 16mm dyneema boom topping lift;

2 x 16mm dyneema asymmetric halyard;
1 x 16mm dyneema mainsheet;
2 x 16mm dyneema blade jib sheets;
2 x 14mm dyneema storm jib sheets;
2 x 16mm dyneema reef lines;
2 x 18mm dyneema checkstay runner tails;

Backstay and Vang Hydraulics:

1 x Cariboni hydraulic backstay tensioners with mechanical lock-off;
1 x Cariboni hydraulic vang with carbon cover;
Operation of these rig hydraulics is powered via a push button console fitted
on pedestal and with a manual backup control unit close to port pedestal;

Blocks:

Spinlock;
2 x stand up single block on bulwark;
2 x pad eyes;

Mainsheet System:

The system is managed by a magic trim system which is installed below deck at mast level. This allows to have a double point mainsheet on the rollbar and therefore the cockpit and deck remain as clear as possible;

Headsail System:

The system uses an auto/tacking jib with single track and single car;

The car can be also used for the removable staysail;

There is a single jib sheet, going from the traveller up to the mast and then down concealed under the coachroof and back to one of the aft winches;

Headsail System:

Bamar electric headsail furling which gives push-button reefing and furling
of the jib;
Unit finished in black anodizing and stainless steel and concealed below
deck to create a flushed bow area;
Manual backup;
Dual controls are provided for each headsail furling function, so the sail may be furled from either side of the cockpit;

Storm Staysail System:

Removable storm jib stay;
Storm jib halyard;
Cariboni hydraulic tensioner;

Rigging Hardware:

Fittings, tip-cups, etc., for discontinuous rod rigging;
Deck ring fabricated in spartite (composite) x 2 kits;
Conduit for masthead instrument wiring;
Spinlock ZS rope jammers for storm jib and blade jib halyards;
Spinlock ZS rope jammers for mainsail halyard and topping lift;
Mast jacking system;
SAILS (by North Sails) Mainsail – SRP 105 – 5 x full-length carbon battens, loose foot, two rows
of reefing points each with custom leech reef block;
Mainsail boom cover in acrylic;
Furling and Selftacking Jib – SRP 105, including a foam luff pad and UV
stripes;
All sails feature a custom graphic design;

5. Electronic Systems

Navigation Instruments:

2 x Raymarine i70, supported data views include: Wind, Speed, Depth,
Tri-data and navigation integrated with the Chart Plotter. The instruments
are installed on each pedestal;
Raymarine SPX-30 SmartPilot autopilot with T3 hydraulic linear drive unit;
2 x Raymarine p70 autopilot remote control located at pedestal and chart
table;
2 x Raymarine e125 Chart Plotter at both pedestals with integrated Digital
Radar and built-in 50 Channel Global Positioning System (GPS), interfaced
with the autopilot;
Raymarine 4kW Radome radar antenna mounted on mast;
Raymarine Ray 240E, Class D-DSC VHF radio-telephone with antenna at
masthead and second station at pedestal;
Magnetic compass;

Entertainment:

Stereo FM Radio/CD Player with iPod and iPhone connectivity. One is fitted with four loudspeakers in the cockpit and has a remote control with twin loudspeakers to the foredeck. Inside the yacht every cabin has a separate stereo system while the master suite and main saloon feature a proper home theatre system which includes stereo and iPod connection.
The stereo system can be also controlled via wifi by an iPad;
8 x OX-Home mirror TV’s are fitted throughout the yacht including bathrooms;

6. Engine Room Equipment

General:

The engine room surfaces are faced with white painted sound absorbing aluminium panels. The engine room access is below the ladder which connects the main saloon to the forward cabin, all other access panels are extra ordinary service panels into the salon floor. The engine room has 24v lighting and is fitted with extractor fans ducted to the exterior through concealed into coachroof grids. An automatic fire extinguisher is fitted with remote indicator light;

Propulsion:

2 x Yanmar Common Rail 4BY2-150 diesel engines, 150hp @ 4,000rpm
ZF reduction gear, which gives a reduction of 2.45:1;
2 x 22” 3 fixed pitch and blades propellers;
2 x 40mm stainless steel shafts lines;
2 x Bronze P-bracket and a PSS water-lubricated lip seal stern gland system;
1 x 15kW SP240 TCi Side Power electric bowthruster with speed control PPC 800;

7. Electrical System

12/24 Volt:

Domestic bank batteries are 24V AGM type, deep cycle series, with a total capacity of 2000 Ah @ 20Ah rate. This battery bank also serves the bowthruster load;
Engine starting batteries are 12V AGM type, heavy duty type (one battery for each engine);
Generator starting battery 12V AGM type, heavy duty type;
2 x 24V/100 Ah alternators (one for each engine);
24V/12V converter, used to charge the engine batteries bank through the alternators;
100A/24V Skylla-TG battery charger;
24V/5000W Phoenix inverter;
12V/30A Phoenix Charger for engines and generator;
24V/12V Blue Power IP20 battery charger for emergency battery bank;
Circuit breaker system;
Victron Easy Control Panel acting as a voltmeter and ammeter for monitoring the vessel’s batteries status;
Batteries isolators;

220 Volt:

1 x 20kW (50Hz) Kohler 4-cylinder diesel generator running @ 1,500rpm installed within manufacturer’s sound shield, located into the fully – insulated engine room. An exhaust water separator and waterlock are installed.

The unit has a remote Start/Stop and instruments mounted on the AC electrical panel at chart table.
220V AC circuit with outlet sockets located as appropriate within the layout;
1 x 63Amp dockside power cable, 3-core double insulated PVC; socket
located on the aft deck;
1 x 100A/24V Victron Battery Chargers;

9. Bilge System

General:

8 x Rule electric bilge pumps;
High level bilge alarm with double level sensor;
Manual bilge pump operated from the side of the cockpit and fitted with a metal deck plate;
Emergency electric bilge pump by Gianneschi, with manual clutch, rated to pump approx. 125lt/min;

10. Fuel System

General:

2 x aluminium tanks providing a total capacity of 1,900 litres, including the
return tank;
Tank inspection cover, one for each;
Tank deck fillers;
Tank gauge system;
Duplex Racor fuel filter and water separator unit is installed with warning lights at the electrical panel. With this system each filter can be isolated whilst maintaining the all machinery up and running, allowing in-use filter replacement and cleaning;

11. Water System

Fresh Water System:

2 x structural tanks totalling 1,360 litres. The GRP tanks are treated with inert gelcoat, fitted with baffles and provided with multiple inspection covers;
1 x 80lt Quick B3 80 water heater; the water is heated by the engine’s heat exchanger or by a thermostatically-controlled 220V, 1.2kW immersion heater element;
180lt/h Idromar MSK 18 watermaker;
Tank deck fillers;
Tank gauge system;

Grey Water:

3 x Sanisplit pressure lines which serve two grey-water aluminium tanks (totalling 220lt) located in the engine room, fitted with a float switch and a Gulper pump, giving automatic evacuation of all showers, washbasins and galley sinks;

Black Water:

5 x Tecma macerator toilets;
1 x 110lt aluminium black water holding tank;
Tank gauge system;
The tank is configured for discharge below water with additional ability to be pumped out from deck via flush-mounted deck fittings.

12. Other Options

General:

60,000 BTU Condaria reverse cycle 220V air conditioning, 8 units;
Barazza Microwave;
Miele electric oven;
Miele Dishwasher;
Miele Washing machine;
Bora 4-plates electric hob;
Bora extractor fan;
Waeco Coolmatic HDC 150 liter 24V fridge, front opening, fitted into the
galley;
Waeco Coolmatic CB 40 Liter 24V fridge, top opening, fitted into the galley;
Third fridge, top opening, fitted into the cockpit, below the seats;
2 x LED underwater lights;
Lopolight tri-wihite light at masthead;
Windex type Wind indicator at masthead with dedicated light;

2 x boom lights over cockpit;
Pair of down and up spreader courtesy lights;
Master gaiter cover in waterproof fabric;

13. Accomodation

General:

The layout allows for a maximum of eight guest berths and two crew, in five cabins, with five heads and separate shower compartments. Owners', guests' and skipper's cabins will have hanging lockers with auto light. All cabins have a mirror fitted.

Deck Saloon:

Access to the Saloon from the cockpit is via a set of teak covered steps, backlighted on the bottom side, with stainless steel handrails on side. The ladder structure is made of aluminium. A custom double sliding, smoked glazed access system is installed at the companionway. This system has a mechanically balanced and assisted operation. The access ladder continues aft, in order to give access to the guest area, and features a Plexiglas divider between the steps going outside and the ones which give access
to the guest area. Below the ladder, in the foyer, a little settee or alternatively a little storage or oilskin locker find place, while below the steps going down into the foyer, which can be removed, there is an access to the main electric switch panel.
Going into the saloon there is a large table to starboard which serves an ‘L’ shape large settee, leather upholstered. The table has a veneered top panel with stainless steel details and it features a sliding mechanism.
There may be also additional stools in order to create more sitting area.
Alternative custom tables are available on request.
To the aft side of the sitting areas, on the bulkhead, a good size mirror TV finds place. A custom drinks locker is fitted forward, surrounding the mast area.
To port side there is a bar area which also works as a kitchen island and which can be provided with tall stools. The island is covered with ‘slatelite onice classico’ on the saloon side which is also backlighted. On the port side, the galley and the chart table find place.
The material used within the saloon are ‘Eucalypt fumé’ for the joinery, white leather and stainless steel strips for the floors and white leather and sand nabuk leather for the headlining. The hull sides, hullports and hatches recesses are upholstered with brown leather, while the venetian blinds are made of wood and leather. The sofa is white leather upholstered.

The Deck Saloon is extremely light and airy, with four bonded to coachroof windows and two opening deck hatches. There are also two long nonopening hullports, one per each side. These hullports contribute to the great feeling of light and space, giving a panoramic view whilst at anchor.

Galley:

The galley has a single, long surface taking the most of the length of the deck saloon. The worktop is covered with ‘Callisto slatelite’ stone with all the appliances being flushed to worktop. The same slatelite material is also used on the floor.
The appliances include a double electric hob for a total of four hot plates by Bora which also feature a particular extractor fan in the middle, again by Bora, fitted on the worktop and assuring a good smoke and odour extraction with the minimum noise. Beside the hob is a sub-counter top mounted ceramic and custom made single sink, which is served by a retractile tap by Barazza. The galley also features an electric oven by Miele
and a microwave by Barazza, together with a front-opening fridge and a top-opening one, better described in the refrigeration chapter. The galley also has a front-opening slim line dishwasher by Miele, for up to nine covers.
Both the refrigerator and freezer have an automatic door light fitted and are provided with their own compressors.

Nav Station:

On this yacht the chart table area is located in order to be a natural continuation of the galley worktop, forward of the galley, and it’s provided with two front-facing panels which accommodate the all electronics, a substantial chart table and a stool which can be removed when not in use.
A small stainless steel support stay is fitted on the chart table lid. There is provision for the stowage of charts. Stowage will be provided also for navigational books, almanacs, etc.

Master Cabin:

The aft cabin is configured with a double berth which is centerlined, one pouf which serves a dressing table and an office desk, plus two large hanging lockers, with drawer and locker space. There is access to the ensuite aft bathroom which is split in two parts, located forward to both sides, one for the shower and the other one for wc, both served by a washbasin.
This cabin is also provided with a safe, flush fitted with digital keypad.

Master Head:

This bathroom is split in two separate areas, on port and starboard side.
The starboard side one includes a separate shower by Bianchi e Fontana and a washbasin; the shower walls and floor as well as the bathroom floor, walls and washbasin counter top are all covered with San Laurant marble with part of the shower corners to be backlighted. Also the washbasin is hollow into the same material and has taps by Fantini and plumbing by Paffoni.
The port side bathroom features a washbasin and a Tecma electric wc (black colour) and the same material as per the starboard one but has Alpilignum joinery instead of marble which is fitted on the floor and on washbasin counter top and stowage doors only. This bathroom also has a mirror TV’ which is hidden behind the mirror.
Headlining for both bathrooms are made of white LED backlighted panels.
Quality large type mixer taps, thermostatic shower controls and fittings are by Fantini and Inda.
Lockers for wash bags, cleaning materials and linen stowage are provided.

Guest Cabins (STB and PRT):

Forward of the master cabin are a pair of guest double cabins, one either side of the corridor.
One of those cabins is configured to be an upper/lower berthed cabin, while the other is a double berth one. Each has en-suite WCs and showers and a hanging locker. The beds also feature a big storage space under the slats net which can be lifted up.

Guest Head:

The two aft guest’s bathrooms serve the two aft cabins and are almost specular. They are both fitted with a separate shower by Bianchi e Fontana and they feature walls, floors and washbasin counter top in “Slatelite Selene”. The headlining is made of “Dani Boxland” leather and of varnished panels. The wc’s are Tecma electric (colour black). Both the bathrooms feature quality mixer taps and thermostatic shower control by Fantini
and fittings by Inda. In particular the taps are fizzed to floor and have a cylinder design.
The washbasins are mounted on the slatelite counter top and are by “Glassdesign” (colour black); the port side one is a gum type (flexible).
In both bathroom there are rollaway stainless steel wirings fitted in the shower which can be used to hang wet clothes; in this way the shower cubicle can be used as an oilskin locker.

VIP Cabin:

Forward from the saloon, which also include the galley on the port side, there is a VIP double berth cabin which uses the all beam of the yacht and has an en-suite good size bathroom on the starboard side. This cabin is also provided with a safe, flush fitted with digital keypad.

VIP Head:

The VIP bathroom takes the all length of the VIP cabin and is placed on starboard side. The shower walls and washbasin top are made of “Slatelite Elios”, while the other walls feature an “Alpilignum” joinery. The floors are made of “Calacatta Oro” marble which is also backlighted into the shower.
The headlining are made of “Dani Boxland” leather. Hidden behind the mirror, a TV finds place too.
The wc is an electric Tecma (Black colour) and the quality mixer taps and thermostatic shower control are by Fantini, while the bathroom’s fitting are by Inda. The washbasin is a ceramic type, squared, over counter top mounted, by “GSG Ceramica” (glossy white colour).

Crew Cabin:

Forward of this cabin is a double crew cabin with en-suite head and integral shower. This cabin is also fitted with a laundry corner which includes a washer-dryer; the access to this cabin is through a generous size deck hatch only.

Crew Head:

The Crew head which is accessible from the crew cabin only, features a Corian type floor with integrated grate for shower drain. The bathroom has an integrated shower and for this reason all the wall, lockers and other surfaces are made of easy to clean material. The bathroom has taps and shower fittings by Paffoni and a Tecma electric toilet (white colour).
In the bathroom as well as in the cabin itself there are rollaway stainless steel wirings fitted which can be used to hang wet clothes; in this way the bathroom can be used as an oilskin locker, while the cabin area can be used as a drying area.

Disclaimer

This offering is subject, but not limited to, errors, omissions, price fluctuation, and prior
sale or withdrawal without notice. All details disclosed are without guarantee and solely
based on the information received by the seller, intended as a general guide to the Yacht.
Engel & Völkers cannot be held liable for any lack of completeness, inaccuracy, or ambiguities
and/or errors contained in the information disclosed. It is the buyer’s responsibility
to disclose the details of any concern(s) to the seller, by the request of a survey, inspection and/or enquiry. The buyer must ensure that the purchase contract properly reflects his
concern(s) and that it sets out any representations and/or details on upon which he may
rely. Engel & Völkers always advises the buyer to conduct an independent survey
prior to the purchase. We are at your disposal for any further information about the
Yacht. Upon receipt of notice, the Yacht is available for viewing at any time, accompanied
by our Yacht Broker. The Seller is responsible for the payment of Commission

Home Improvement Questions including "If the rear bumper of your car is detached a little bit is there any kind of glue or Super Glue which will work to hold it on"

Read article : Home Improvement Questions including "If the rear bumper of your car is detached a little bit is there any kind of glue or Super Glue which will work to hold it on"

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Most modern car bumpers have been made with a specific mix that makes it almost impossible to glue. Many of these products are 'hot air welded' rather than glued.

Popularity: 47

You need bushings in the bottom door hinge. You might have to remove the finder to get to it. You might trying to go to a you pull it and find a good hinge from a 89 to 97 Thunderbird or Cougar. It would be less work.

Popularity: 83

Many gasket kits actually recommend using a gasket goo. As long as you are careful and get only a light coating to hold the gasket while installing you will have no problem.

Popularity: 45

It is easiest if the gas line and the electrical outlet are already set up in your home. At that point, it is easy to set up the appliance. When hooking up a new or used gas appliance it is required that you use a new gas line. I always try to use a flexible line and make sure it is extra long so …

Popularity: 153

When it comes to moss or mold on a roof, the culprit is actually a blue-green algae which is most commonly found in warmer, humid climates. Although it does not damage the roofing the black stains it leaves do not look good. One solution if there are only a few shingles involved, would be to repla…

Popularity: 330

Books on Home Repair If you're likely to shop for tools and supplies at a Home Depot, then I recommend you have a look at their own series of home improvement books. (Note that there is considerable redundancy between the various volumes they offer.) These books provide detailed instructions for a w…

Popularity: 180

Get Rid of Bees in Walls Call in the exterminator. -Zo Another option: Take a one gallon jug , glass is preferred, plastic will do, take 1/3 cup of sugar and fill 1/4 full with water. The bees will go into the jug and drown. place this where you have the bee problem. This works outside with ye…

Popularity: 25

First of all DO NOT start a fire in the fireplace to drive the bees out. The bees could have damaged the lining of the fireplace creating a home fire hazard or created a nest that is blocking the flue and this will back smoke up into the house. Step 1. Install a chimney balloon or inflatable damper…

Popularity: 38

Unless you are replacing a 16 foot wide window, you will need to install a header. Your best bet to span that distance is a laminated beam or other engineered lumber, and you will need 3 jack studs supporting it on each side. Since you are making a structural change, you will need to pull a permit a…

Popularity: 117

There is a wide array of costs concerning roof replacement, regardless of the area. The material used, size in square footage, labor costs, and so on. Sometimes a second layer of shingles can be added, but use caution since you may just be covering up an underlying issue with the roof structure or m…

Popularity: 126

Insurance for older homes You may not find a company willing to provide all-risk coverage or replacement cost coverage. You should be able to buy a named-peril, ACV (pays depreciated value due to age) policy with basic fire & extended coverage. Contact a few agents. In Florida, most insurers wi…

Popularity: 175

The general theory or principle of homeowners insurance as it pertains to the structure itself is to repair or replace it to its pre-loss condition. It does not cover issues that are caused by deferred maintenance. Coverage for Structural integrity and quality of workmanship issues are generally a…

Popularity: 191

Vacuuming large debris through skimmer without using a leaf trap. A leaf trap has a bag inside for catching debris and is placed between the end of your pool vacuum hose and the skimmer. It keeps leaves from clogging your skimmer line when you vacuum. It's OK to not to use a leaf trap as long a…

Popularity: 65

Swimming pool paint companies do not recomment mixing paint types rubber goes back on rubber or epoxy back on epoxySo if you want epoxy, sandblast off the rubber. BTW Silica sand is very toxic and best left to the pros, the paint ain't much to help out the health either.Take special care when painti…

Popularity: 65

I believe that when chlorinated water splashes on the limestone, it will create a crossive environment that may be adverse to the metal wall.

Popularity: 47

Use "pool repair mortar" if it is under water or any exterior latex fortified thinset mortar if it's not under water. After trying several types of products that didn't work I used "liquid nail" which can be purchased at a local hardware store. You then have to re-grout the tile and seal them.

Popularity: 45

About 2.6 million dollars as there is sold bed rock to remove and the blasting will cost several hundred thousand dollars then there is the EPA and environmental impact studies and noise abatement and having to remove the trees that are housing endangered birds and Then installing Schedule 80 PVC pi…

Popularity: 55

It sounds like you do need to put air in your tank. Look here for a fairly clear description of the process: gremcoinc.com The exact process will depend on your system. No. Low air in the tank would only make the pump run more. Pressure is a factor of the pump and the well. The tank will only hol…

Popularity: 388

Answer If there is no plumbing in the wall it has to be either a leak from upstairs that's running down the wall or the grout or caulk has gone bad and every time you take a shower you make it worse. Grout is cheap and easy. Try scraping out the old grout between the tiles and then regrout between t…

Popularity: 163

Sometimes chemicals causes rust to get into the water lines. a change in water pressure will cause this rust to turn loose and come through into the bathtub or other appliances. Another cause could be a break in the pipe. What you may be seeing is dirt. What happens is when the water flows, and then…

Popularity: 241

Many plumbing supply stores have a list of contractors that can be recommended. Otherwise, ask around to see who has been used before. Angie's List (a service you pay for) has vetted home improvement professionals if you would like to go that route.

Popularity: 162

I usually use the thickest wax ring I can find with the plastic funnel thing embedded in it. If it's a little too thick, the extra wax will just squeeze out a bit underneath the toilet. Sometimes its necessary to double up on the ring (use two - one with the funnel one without) to make a good seal o…

Popularity: 310

Depending on the condition of the bladder tank sometimes you can add more air to it for a temporary fix, but ultimately you will have to replace it. Press in the air valve on top to see if any water comes out, if so then the bladder is water logged.   Depending on the tank, the bladder can so…

Popularity: 191

%DETAILS% Answer It's possible that you have a blockage, on the toilet line and the water is coming up in the tub to alleviate pressure. Or, your vent may be clogged causing what is called back syphonage, causing the water not to push out.

Popularity: 95

Installing a Toilet on a Cast Yes, you can put a toilet on it. The hardest part would be putting a toilet flange onto the cast. There are two options: you can either get a cast iron flange to fit over it and pour a lead joint or you have to chip around the pipe enough to get a no hub band on it. Yo…

Popularity: 514

You normally locate the vent at the sink drain, but you can locate a vent at every fixture if you like.  *The sink is vented above the tee holding the trap arm to the sink. The sink drain will go below the floor and be joined(usually with a wye) from the shower drain which then is joined into …

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If this noise occurs after shutting off a fixture (e.g., shower or sink), I'd pop the lid on the toilet tank and check there. Sometimes, this type of noise occurs when water pressure is reduced somewhere else, causing the fill valve to open slightly and howl like a foghorn. So, after shutting off th…

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It depends on your system. If your on city water you should be able to pull off the airaters on the sinks and open up all your fixtures until the air is out. If your on a well you could try the same thing. If it doesen't work on a well it could be that your well pump isn't filling your tank as fast …

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Be aware that for the first few minutes after turning off you will get the shower head leak a little. This is because the shower head has a large cavity inside that fills up with water in use. When you turn off, that water has to go somewhere, so it dribbles through the outlets of the shower head. …

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Several things cause the toilet to "keep running." Either the flap in the bottom of the tank isn't sealing shut. When you push the handle, a chain connects an arm on the handle to the flap on the bottom of the tank. The flap opens letting the water in the tank run through the bowl flushing the float…

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Yes, the baffle is choking off the vent, causing the toilets to flush slow.

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Do you have the tub where you can measure it? If so, measure from the back of the tub to the center of the overflow, that will give you the measurement for the drain.

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First, remove the shower head and test the valve. If you have plenty of water at the shower with the head removed, then the problem is a clogged shower head. Clean it or replace it. What the hell...just replace it. You deserve it. Go buy one of those cool shower massage heads to replace it. If you…

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If it is loose debris, simply remove the strainers at each faucet and turn on the water. If the depris is hardened and cannot be removed in this manner, replace the offending water line.Ans 2 - The above answer will help, but not always cure the problem. Other parts where debris will almost certainl…

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Low water pressue is caused by debris in the line, depending on the type of pipe, ie. galvanized produces buildup which restricts flow. Foul smell is caused by food particles in your disposal. This can be easily corrected by pouring bleach down your drain, also check to make sure trap is not dry.Ans…

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Look for a special toilet that mounts directly to the floor and the water drains into a box mounted on the floor behind the toilet, under the tank. This box contains a pump that runs off electricity (plugs into standard outlet), and when the toilet is flushed, the waste goes into the box and is pum…

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Yes.

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install a tank and a sewage ejector pump There are also "macerating toilets" which grind the waste and eject it vertically through a 3/4" or 1" waste pipe until the waste is higher than the existing waste drain pipe where it can then flow downward using gravity. These macerating toilets can cost u…

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If you have alot of fine sand in your water as we do, it could be that as the water heats it cooks the sand onto the heating coil and therefore narrows the space the hot water travels through. It does not affect the cold at all only the hot. If this is the case you need a new heating coil for your …

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Reset the pressure switch to energize (close) at a higher pressure. I would increase it 10# for starters.Ans 2 - That won't do it. The only way is to feed the outside hydrants from the pressure tank.

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If the pressure problem is in the shower try removing the shower head but leave the shower arm in place. Then turn the water on and see if you have a good flow of water with no shower head in place. Sometimes the shower head gets clogged with a mineral deposit which needs to be disloved with somethi…

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Yes.

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Replace the shower valve (faucet).   I would call a plumber to check it out. Because there may be another reason, it depends on other things besides faucet. Like a crimped water line under slab floor, if you have copper water lines, i have seen the cooper pipe go all the way into a tee and bl…

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alot of times if the fittings are close together the solder takes but doesen't get full penetration. over time the pressure of the water will push through the solder joint. the best thing to do is drain down the system and replace the leaky joints. More than likely the plumber used too much flux or…

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The pressure in your tank should be checked with water drained from the tank, with the water drained the air pressure in the tank should be set 2psi lower than your kick in pressure. So for a kick in pressure of 25psi the tank air pressure should be set at 23psi.Ans 2 - Water should NOT be totally d…

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Not without breaking up some concrete or crawling under it, if you have a wood floor, and you will have to know where you can tie it into the existing system before beginning anything.

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Low Water Pressure The further away your taps are (example: the bathroom) the less water pressure you have. If you have a lot of trees around your property I suggest getting "Rotor Rooter" in to clean out your pipes. Especially in an older home the pipes can have all sorts of odd things in the…

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The pressure can be adjusted at the pump. You may need to replace the inlet to the home with 3/4 inch water line. If you have 1/2 inch line and a high iron content, the pipes may be partially plugged.Ans 2 - You don't say if this is a shallow well with jet pump or a deep well (over 75 feet) with a s…

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The easiest way to do this, is to tie into the drain below the lavatory piping as it connects to the vertical pipes in the wall.Cut in the tee for the washer below the tee for the lavatory.Run the 1 1/2" or 2" pipe horisontaly to the washer location,and add a p-trap of the same size.If the p-trap is…

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i found a great website for discount shower heads, but it also has a great support section with step by step pictures and instructions, including tips on increasing water pressure.htp://www.showerstore.com

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Not much choice other than to shut off the water to the entire house at the meter or at a secondary valve that may be installed where the water main enters the house.Yes, that is the only way, other than freezing the pipe using a special tool some plumbers carry, where if no valves are found or if a…

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If you have an old complex built pre 80's, you may not have pressure balance shower valves. Replace existing valve with a new pressure balance valve. The problem is most notable in second and above floors, but can occur at the ground level as well.Setting at the water heater has been chaged. This …

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Replace the flapper. If that doesn't work, try a Flusher Fixer Kit.

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Replace the shower valve.

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Adjust pressure regulator valve (P.R.V.) Turn clockwise. remove water saver from shower head

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Shower valve is bad. Replace it.Ans 2 - Shower valves often become plugged with debris. Many of them can simply be cleaned by carefully removing the control lever and and ball and then picking out the debris. Be careful to lay all parts in order if you dismantle it. This may take about an hour, but …

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the new one has a aeriator that's working right

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the blue could be from over use of a joint compound used by plumbers. Have you recently had work done? If so it should go away after it is flushed out for awhile. good luck snm

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Because by flushing the toilet while using the shower, you have removed some of the water pressure on the cold side. This decreases the amount of water flowing to the shower head. Therefore changing the mix more toward the hot side. Answer this is also due to incorrect pipe size installation of cold…

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You might want to replace your seats inside the body of the faucet. You can pick up a seat wrench at any Home Depot or plumbing supply house. Burrs on the seats casue your washers to get cut and, inturn, they cause the faucet to leak. If that doesnt work, chances are that you have a hairlne fracture…

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For Moen, there is a part called a "posi temp" and this can be replaced to manage the hot water. You may need a specialized tool called a puller. There is an amusing You Tube with Steven Lavmoniere that shows the process to do this. Maybe. If it is a Moen or other type of single handle shower valv…

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Buy a new toilet. The trap in the toilet probably has a crack in it allowing the water in the bowl to leak out.ANS 2 - Have you carefully inspected the bowl for cracks ? - Please do this first, before rushing out and wasting money. There may be other reasons for this/

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Yes. It is called a carrier fitting. These are only sold at plumbing supply stores. I would not suggest trying to install it by yourself.

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Yes. If not it will be a wet vent and cause MAJOR problems.

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simple, you increase the height of the storage tank thus increasing the water head pressure to the cylinder or install a continuous rated pump (but not recommend) for best results change the cylinder to an unvented (output: potentially 22ltrs at 3 bar) :o)

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Yes, programmable thermostats can reduce the energy used for air conditioning or heating by 5 to 30%. Programmable thermostats save money by turning the air conditioner to a higher setting (or heater to a lower setting) when no one is present in the house, or in the evenings when it is cooler. [Fro…

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Balance insulation is best way to keep heating and cooling costs down, For that propose glass window & Doors at your home is a natural way which has been admired by peoples from A longer time. But it gives a versatile look to your home if it installed well.

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A good rule of thumb for HVAC contractors is usually 600 square feet per ton of cooling. With a 2200 square ft. home you should have no less than a 3.5 ton heat pump with no more than a 10kw heat strip. This is a general figure. The type of windows and how many you have plays a big part in the fact…

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Regular cleaning can be done with detergent and water, and rinsed; or commercial household cleaners or bathroom cleaners used according to label directions. Do not use scouring powders or other abrasives which can scratch the finish. Special cleaning may be needed for ceramic tile in bathrooms if t…

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Latex is water-based paint, so take a very thin rag, put it over the edge of a putty knife and scrape very carefully. It should come off quite easily. Don't rush this job! Take your time and the latex should come off like butter.If the paint has a tenacious bond, use some denatured alcohol to slowly…

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Good luck. I did that several years ago and never could get it off. I ended up painting the concrete. You could try muriatic acid, though, that's the only thing I did not try, just because I'd never heard of it.   Paint stripper.

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First, brush off the loose ashes. Spray the brick with water. Then, mix a mild cleaner with water and use that to clean off the soot.

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Alternatives to Painters Tape     There are a few that I try + Spray shield, slide it up or under the baseboard. Mainly if you are able to slide it under the baseboards it works wonders. +Use painters tape and seal it with painter's caulk. I've tried the green tape and it sometim…

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Aha! I just had this problem this past summer, but it was just the normal squirrels. My husband had to rent a trap (won't harm the squirrels)and put a lump of peanut butter in the cage to attract them (they love it!) Sounds like you have a family of them, so it's going to take you several trips. Too…

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The gravity is the same regardless of flooring type. The bouncyness of the floor depends on the floor material and this is what affects how high the ball will bounce. For example, carpet will absorb energy and ball will not bounce as high as on concrete or a sprung wood floor, which do not take a lo…

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An easy way is to use a paint scraper. Any sharp edged object should be useful.It is important that you do this regularly...soot can actually catch fire if left to build up, and can therefore be very dangerous.

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Answer Buy a spud pistol and shoot them. This is the best way. I am going to do this myself. Shooting at them annoys them and this puts them off. Continuous sniping at them for many years leads them to learn to stay away. But lizards being slow learners, this may take time. If any one knows a bet…

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Answer here's a few more pennies... The glue preferred by pool pros for this application is Mr. Sticky's Underwater Glue. It is sticky underwater, does not become brittle, easy to work with. you can find it at mrstickys.com Well here is my 2 cents worth, I am not in the pool repair business b…

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If there are supply valves feeding the supply lines connecting your faucet, they may be closed, or simply your faucet components/inserts and or supply lines may be restricted.ANS 2 - most common cause for this is a plugged aerator or stop valve.

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Answer light a fire CHECK AND SEE IF AN ANIMAL OR BIRD HAS BUILT NEST WHICH IS KEEPING YOUR CHIMNEY'S FLUE OPEN. Answer You need to close the damper. look inside the flute 4 handle,and push or pull. Answer It could either be your Flue is stuck open slightly or you have a crack in the chimney...eithe…

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If its a nice big wide dent you may be able to pop it out take off the door panel make sure the window is up use a small block of wood to pop it out if its a small dent then you need a grinder pondo primer paint sander etc a lot of time an patience When a dent occurs, the metal is pushed in. The …

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If the toilet and shower are in an upper floor then there is a PVC drain for both that will drain to either the sewer or septic. If there is a vertical piece to this, as there is in my basement, then you actually get some dribbling and running sounds from the water 'falling' down that vertical PVC. …

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Answer Since there are so many different advances in "indoor plumbing" recorded from many time periods it is hard to be precise. I found this webiste to be of much help. http://www.theplumber.com/H_index.html Hope this helps to answer. -JRB- Answer The earliest identifiable flushing toile…

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I have used a product called Goof Off. One could probably purchase it at Home Depot. It is specifically used to remove water-based, latex paints off of fabric or other surfaces. I would test a small spot first to make sure it will not damage of discolor the surface. I have used this on fabric be…

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Using Underwater Glue, you can easily repair pool liners without draining the pool. Instructions are below. 1. Get a piece of PVC (vinyl) liner patch material that would provide a surface approx 2" larger than the slit all the way around the slit. 2. If possible, rough up with sandpaper both the a…

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I would glue it with silicon and hold the edges with tape till firm.

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Answer Go to your local hardware store and ask them this question. There are all sorts of products to get rid of that rust (most of it) before going to the expense of putting a liner up. Answer I agree: fix the cause of the rust and remove the rust before attempting to cover it up. If not, you …

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Towel Bar HeightHere is input:Whatever height is most comfortable for you considering your height. If you are remodeling a home to sell, I would place it at around 4 feet. Just make sure that a large bath towel will not drag on the floor.Standard adult towel bar height is indeed 48". For kids, 36" i…

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Just today we had a company come out to work on a home we just purchased that has a neww bladder tank, they said it should be at 38p.s.i. pre charge is set at aprox 15 lbs P.S.I. Set well pressure at 55 to 60 lbs  A better rule of thumb is the pump cut-in pressure minus 2 psi.ANS 4 -Factory p…

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I'm from British Columbia, Canada and we have the odd year where we are over-run with yellow jackets. Yellow jackets hatch out in grassy areas so go to your local nursery and ask them what environmentally safe product you can put on your grass to safetly get rid of them. It's doubtful they do build …

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Depending if your on a well or public water system ,Well sys just increase your pressure with your pressure switch ,adjustment of your pressure regulator valve if so equiped (turn in )clockwisePlumbers generally apply a narrow vent in the tubular flow of your plumbing pipes to increase the water pre…

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I recently installed a new pump and filter. The tools and materials that I needed were: 1. Screwdriver for connecting the electrical wires to the pump. 2. An 8 foot piece of PVC pipe from Home Depot. 3. An assortment of PVC elbows and adaptor fittings for the pipes (also from Home Depot) 4. PVC prim…

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Try using 3-m spray glue. make sure surface is clean. squirt a "light"coat on both surfaces, let it sit for a minute, lay it down. WARNING once you lay it down, you cant pull it up again, so do it right the first time.

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Answer I would think the bathroom has leaked....alot of pipes to a bath, could be any of them. At least you know, now you can fix the problem, and use Kilz to paint with it does cover mold and mildew. Answer The worst problem is not fixing the pipes, but fixing the resultant damage. It is pos…

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Answer garden bugs

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Hire an expert to install a support bar to hold the weight of the AC. The support bar must be mounted to the surface of the building, most preferably, a brick building.

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u can use construction adhesive or build the wall out w/ 2x4 on the flat .....then glue @ nail 2 the wood. better yet use small concrete nails into mortar joints thru 1" x 3/4" furring strips spaced an 16" centers. small lag screws into lead expanders work well if mortar is too hard and as stated ab…

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You can purchase Loctite Auto Mirror Adhesive to replace the rear view mirror at any auto parts store or Walmart. Follow the directions to the letter.

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It depends on the valve, who makes it and what model is it?you have a cross connection in the water system ( I don't think it is the value, most of the time it is on your washing machine hot and cold water valve. Go to a faucet away from the machine and turn on the water. Then go listen at the machi…

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you can use either "bondo" or "Minwax Wood Filler" to patch the wood.Dont mix more that you can use in 5-10 min.. Use a good stiff putty knife,let set ,sand, then prime and paint.This will hold up in Minnesota winters/summers(not to mention bondo is used on cars and boats). Hope this will work for …

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